brighton98
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Posts posted by brighton98
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I'm trying to tighten 98 Lego's A/C belt, but the nut at the end of the slider bolt is cracked, so I can't get adjustment. Any tips--also, does Subaru sell the sliders (none at J/Y)?? Thanks.
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I already have a new tstat and gasket ready to go. Thanks for the advice!
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I want to drain the 95 Lego's coolant and I'd like to know what tool I need. According to Haynes manual, they're big Allen heads, larger than any wrench I have. Ideas?? Thanks.
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I was wondering which year rear strut assemblies will interchange with a 98 Lego. I know 95-99 are the same, but I'd like to find out if 2000+, or from another model, will work. Oh, and I guess I'm in the minority, but I need stock ride height--no Outbacks please!
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I just wanted to know if this is an acceptable choice for 95/98 Legacy F/R differentials. I think the "hypoid" part is what's spooking me. Thanks!
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I thinkk you're talking about Wedde's Auto in Bath, PA. We've dealt with them several times and they have always been fair and reliable. (610) 837-6411//www.getusedsubaru.com. BTW, I'm not advertising, I just have their card in front of me:banana:
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I need to change the RH outside manual mirror on the 98 Brighton. I know that 1995-99 should interchange, but what about first gens (90-94)? Of course the local u-pull-it has lotsa oldies but no second gens. Thanks.
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How many miles ?
118,000. And I did mean to say "knew," not "new," previously. I must be getting a Check Brain light:-p
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No CEL before treatment. On my other cars is usually would be an O2 sensor or EGR code, that doesn't reappear after code clearing. I'll disconnect the battery and see what happens, but I wish I new why I can't scan codes.
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I ran some Seafoam thru my PCV to clean things out a little. The car runs smoother but the Check Engine light is lit, no doubt to the extra solvent. I tried to clear it with my code reader, but I just keep getting an "E". Is something wrong here (it works on my other cars) or is there another way to clear it (battery disconnect)? Thank you.
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The CV axle is from a reputable Subaru specialist. The wheel bearing doesn't seem loose and doesn't make any noise. The shake is negligible at speeds under 50 mph, but always occurs under braking. Hope this sheds some light.
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I finally had my RF cv axle replaced (good used Subaru), but now I have a vibration under braking, mainly from higher speeds. The steering wheel shakes from side to side, more violently the longer you brake. Also it oscillates the same on the highway >60mph. The axle seems OK, and I followed a chart posted by porcupine73 that points right to the rotors, which supposedly weren't touched during the axle job. I cleaned out the calipers & looked for obvious rotor wear, but found none. Could there be a corellation here, or just a coincedence?? As always, your thoughts are welcomed. Thanks!
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I know some of you folks have modified the knock sensor circuit with a resistor, or have relocated it. Can you achieve a similar effect by placing a very thin rubber washer under the sensor,or after 120K should I just get a new one?? Just trying to modify the "usual" Subie cold hesitation a little. Thanks all.
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Check the 1" rubber hose that hooks to the Idle air control motor from under the main air intake pipe. If that's off, it will start but not run, and it's under the main intake hose so it's easy to forget.
Bingo!! I don't know how I missed it, but the IAC hose was not hooked up at the intake plenum. Hooked it up, runs great. Thanks all--props to 91Loyale and 86BRATMAN.
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WHat did you spray the throttle body with? Do you have spark?
nipper
I used CRC Air Intake Cleaner, same as always. Must have spark because it starts, idles fine for 6-7 seconds, then dies.
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I checked my knock sensor yesterday; it was uncracked so I reinstalled it. Now the car starts but won't keep running. You can catch it before it stalls, but dies again even if you stay on the gas. I checked for loose vacuum lines, wires, etc. I did spray out the throttle body while the airbox was off, but I've done that before with no ill effect. I'm really @#$%ed-please help!
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I'm having a little cold hesitation, so the first thing I have checked is the knock sensor. It has a little rust around the bottom edge, but all metal and plastic are uncracked. Can I assume this is OK and look elsewhere, like replacing the old (non-OEM) wires, or could it still be bad?? BTW-no codes. Thanks.
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I've been seeing threads about a split flange for repairing the rear of the cat. converter. Where's the best place to get one, and how do you measure/order it? Thanks.
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I need to replace the right front CV axle due to a torn boot. The OEM Subaru rebuild is $188; I'd trying to go "on the cheap." I've read many bad posts about parts store rebuilds--too short, wrong splines, etc. Would a used one,with good boots, be an acceptable alternative? The car only sees about100 mi./wk., and Id rather save for the 120K timing belt! TIA for your help.
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While changing my 98 2.2's temp sensor, I managed to break a vacuum hose nipple off a part close by. It's a 1" x 2" box with 2 vac nipples and an electrical plug, mounted with one bolt. I showed it to the Subie parts guy on their computer (I had to find it for him) and he says it's "some type of solenoid." No idea what it does, but depending on the VIN it's $68 or $118!! I was able to patch the old one, but will look for a junker or two. Any hint what is is? Thanks:)
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Propshaft=front-rear driveshaft
U-joints & center bearing are smooth and tight; same symptoms as before so I'm assuming it's not the central driveshaft.
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I finally replaced the 98 Brighton propshaft with a new(used) one; no more slop in the u-joints. However, I'm still getting vibrations when accellerating, especially from 25-30 and 35-40mph. It smooths out in the cruise and once you let off the gas. BTW, no torque bind, if that matters. Maybe CVs or mounts?? Thanks.
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I'm finally getting to change the prop shaft on the 98 Leagcy, which as a bad front u-joint. A reputable used parts guy said that the whole shaft should be changed, because there is often damage done to the bearing area when trying to separate the pieces. Is he correct, or is there a way to just replace the bad front half?? Thanks.
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Well, nipper and porcupine73 were right (thanks folks
); our 98 Legacy has much play in the front u-joint. I know Subaru will gladly $ell a new shaft. I'm trying to find a shop that could replace the UJ-what do I need? Failing that, I see many guys getting used ones. Can you give me an idea what models/years might interchange? Much obliged!
1995 Brighton front rotor size
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I need new front brake rotors for my 95 Lego Brighton, but there seem to be several sizes close enough to easily get the wrong ones. How can I sure to get the right ones without trying to measure within 1/8"? Thanks.