DR DLEX
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Posts posted by DR DLEX
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have you ever thought of pulling the strut towers toward each other.I have seen picts.of Gen 1 rally cars with strut braces with adjustments.Or slotting the strut holes for lateral adjustment. The idea of spacing the engine crossmember may have an unwanted stress-pull on the struts,towers,and ball-joint.
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on your acceration issue,check the secondary "flapper"valve(the thing with the counterweight) it should move very easily and drop with a slight "ckink".
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sound like the slow-jet is partially clogged.
by the accerator pump on the carb ,is a brass cap screw,remove it
then carefully unscrew and remove the jet
check the tiny hole in the bottom,this may be clogged
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Hey is that why my speed 1 and 2 dont work? Anyone know how to fix this?
When these go bad ,just resoder(then peen) the brass connector back to the post.
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....or use washer/spacer...cone it using a punch(to ride the ball)...cut a slice from center to edge...bend to slip over ball...bend back...then grease the ball
the wipers may have a little slop,but it works
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yep,I thought you were looking at the same box. the pic is from my Brat from when I pulled the motor.if you get that one , it comes w/the airbox,I was quoted 135(new) for the airbox alone 8yrs ago.I had to make a custem box.
these ARE old school fun,,,,but a PAIN(censered) on axels and bearings
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hello Wallby,
sounds like a vacuum leak;
close off all vacuum hoses on/at the intake and the carb. including evap can
plug or crimp EGR pipe
plug the exhast air system
this should get your idle manageable...if not
cup your hand over the carb to feel the vac
...suction gets higher the more you close your over hand carb with a good suck when it dies=good(for the most part)
...suction gets higher to a point ...but does not die=leaking intake or carb gasket
...carb spits=clogged slow-jet
the only problems i've seen with Hitachi carbs are;
the upside-down screw in the throttle plate--doesn't stay tight
the power valve wearing out and sticking--isolate and remove
have fun
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here is a pic,,note the hook
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First, are you sure this is for an E-81?
Second,special heads are nice,, but not required
Third, if this is the set-up in a plastic bin at a certain local wrecking yard...... it's for a EA-63,,but will match to a EA-71(re-jetted)
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o-kay let me slow this down abit.
1. On a non turbo intake fuel/air system, the cylinder volume creates the vacuum in the intake thus sucking the fuel/air mix at the carb(s).The smaller the carb., the less availible mix=longer time to fill the cylinder=less acceration(i.e.resrictor plates in NASCAR).The larger the carb.( or # of carbs.) more volume of fuel/air=quicker acceleration(i.e.drag racing,six-pack hemi's,etc..)
2.Torqe is made by the the ratio -fuel/air to comrpession.The more fuel/air mix available, and the higher the mix is compressed,the bigger the bang thus more torque.
Now with that being said;the dual hitachi would be the choice,,,,BUT
,,,,hitachi's are hiachi's and chasing problems one is often a headache and two=weeks of nightmares.Having run duals on stock EA-71s for over 100,000
miles i've been there.
I would suggest that you try each set-up and see which one fits for you
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the 26/30 for the hitachi refers to the throttle plate size,thus two 26/30's are accually 52/60 total carb bore. compare this to the webber 32/36 and then do the math. hope this helps
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finish it off with psudo-front clip w/head lights and a shortened hood toolbox
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Well, atleast it reads at 0 oil pressure now so I'm guessing the gauge isn't working properly, and it still ticks, but it sounds quieter and wet, instead of dry and loud. Drive it till it blows time since I've already hurt it. Thanks for all the help! Frank
don't kill the goose before dinner.
check the valve covers for fresh oil...oil on each side=good
...oil on one side =bad
...very little or none=very bad--pull it
hopefully you have good wet valve covers.
in that case add a pint of 90w oil and drive the hell out of it
have fun
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one thing to check is the oil pick-up o-ring
I have had one distort(melt) enough to loose oil pressure after warm-up...
it was the last thing I checked after I swapped 2 oil pumps with the same results
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do some ally hunting and get rusty 77-78 wagon
steal the running gear tranny-->rear arms
swap out
done
note--check fuel tank clearance
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wagon carpets will fit,,,there are a few good ones out there
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This time of year every muddy dirt farm road between Spo-fun and the L-C Hole is better than 7-mileORV,from my seat anyways.
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I feel your pain Uberoo. Every time I visit the L/C area I dream of wheeling straight up those hills,too.Wheeling between trees,roots,rocks and washouts may be fun for some,but wagontrailing and freewheeling has its merits too.The idea would be what it would be a hiil climber.I would agree a pricey project.
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The manifold will be a direct bolt on except :
1.The bolts will need to be longer(or locktight studs into the block).
But if they are to long they will tighten to the head stud,tight feel-loose
in the middle.
2.The throttle rod anchors to the pass.(drivers-down under) intake
bolts/nuts.
3.Manual choke cable,I use a bicycle cable and thumb shifter anchored to
the 4WD shifter.
4.Some minor tweeking of the throttle cable routing,depending on the length
of your cable.
5.Air box--unless you are lucky enough to have one.
And as for the EGR and EAI(exhaust air injection),well,you most likely won't
be lifting your hood for inspections anyway.
Enjoy... don't forget to shift between grins.
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hello dirk,
I now know that your jets are to small.here are some specs.from my Haynes
manual. To tweek when the secondary throttle opens--use a small bolt/nut this saves alot of time bending the linkage.Does the carb your running have the countrweight on the secondaries(the pics don't).
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my Brat is shivering with envy-----there go the rivets
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just a suggestion, ckeck the valve lash(gap).they may be alittle to tight and the valves may be "floating" above 5000RPM.loose is good-tight is bad,
only if it has solid(non-hydro)lifters.
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If I have my history right,the duel-carb was only offered on the EA-62 or
63(1400)in 1972-74 in the U.S.These engines had the valves reversed
with the exhaust ported to the side of the heads(not under).The manifold
does fit the EA-71(1600),but you have to re-jet the carbs to keep the
air/fuel mix right.The next adjustment would be the exhaust.The stock
exhaust fills up to quickly and tends to get hot and burn the inner pipe
at the head.
Now since you live Down-under you may find EA-71(1600) D-C engines.
A side by side tear down would answer alot of questions(heads,cams,
compression,jetting,dist,etc).
I've been running D-C for a while now on my stock EA-71(1600)block(s)
and head(s).Don't expect any more than +25HP and +20 torque,and you
will be happy.
Bye the bye,I like those heads in your build thread.The car is in very
good shape ,too.Is that factory green?
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Patching rusted out panel
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
grind edges to the metal (inside and out),Bondo-glass both sides with fiberglass mesh on the inside of the panel(1/2 inch larger than hole).