Gloyale
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Posts posted by Gloyale
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or get a good known used one?
If you want to go new, don't go cheap. Get OE from dealer or MAYBE autozone.
Autozone is now owned by worldpac, so they do have access to high quality Japanese OE stuff. Might have to ask....it'll be the "duralast Gold" or some crap instead of the basic.
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sounds like you need a new master cylinder
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the danger is that there is no detent poition for the "nuetral" between high and low range. there is just a dead spot between the detents for the hi/lo
That's why they don't refer to it as nuetral. Many trucks with hi/lo transfer cases DO have a nuetral to be used for towing and such. BUT........they have a detent that holds them there.
With no detent to hold it, it could easily, suddenly engage the very edge of either of the gears. no bueno.
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Check the bolts securing the trailing arm to the outer arm.
Those 3 are where the alignment adjustment happens, so that should be the on;y bolts the alignment shop would have touched.
Unless they tried to move the entire rear subframe to set thrust angle......then the main crossmember bolts would be what to check.
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I was unable to remove the two phillips head screws on the pump.
You need to.
It will continue to leak if you don't.
Mount it in a vice, and use an Impact driver if needed. But you are in for disappointment if you don't reseal that section.....that's were the action happens.
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Mods please move this out of the Old Gen.
Like to the trash bin
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blown headgasket went through same with baja ej25
naaahh
no bubbles in overflow, no loss of heat, no coolant loss. No overheating. If anything the opposite, he says car runs right int eh middle of the gauge.
The lower radiator hose should be noticeably cooler than the upper if the radiator is working well.
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I recently replaced the 4eat tranny in my 04 baja with a jdm 4eat. The replacement tranny unfortunately has a 4:11 final drive that does not like my 4:44 differentials. I purchased a 4:11 rear diff but, it was longer than
my original and the axles would not seat in it. Is it possible to use a shorter shaft from another model, what axles would I need and can you replace the gears in the front diff with a 4:11 set? thanx
This isn't right. All the R160 diffs subaru uses are the same size. the only difference is pinion flange size older to new. And these can be easilly swapped to match your driveline. Some models use screw in retainers, while most are shims. but all are the same width between the axles. All are the same length front to back.
Something else is preventing your axles from seating.
Outside possibility would be you got a STI r180? not likely.
Also. When you say the final drive is 4.11, that means you already have a front diff that is 4.11.....so why do you need to know if it can be swapped?
there is no center diff. it's a direct 1:1 transfer gear through hydraulic clutch to allow slippage in turns.
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If you are really worried, smear a super thin little bit of sealant directly into the scratch, and then wipe off all excess. Then install like normal with paper gasket.
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you wont see me puttin my old crusty junk on here.
That's a relief.
I really don't want to see yer crusty junk.
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I think they do have some code to detect under and overvoltage. Last time I replaced mine the brake and charge light were solid glowing. Autozone put it on their tester and it was under voltage. I have lifetime replacements so it cost me nothing.
It's not code. It's voltage difference.
12v is applied to one side of the bulbs in the dash from key.
While running, the alt should also produce 12v to the other side of the bulb. If the voltage on the output drops below the battery volts, the bulbs will come on via the voltage difference. If they are dim, the alt is still trying but undervolt by a few. So you on;y see a few volts worth of glow.
If they are on bright, then its a near zero output situation, so basically ground on the alt side.....so you see the full 12v brightness on the dash.
There is no "code". No processor. Just basic electrical principal.
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man.
That guy took stuff personal. I didn't see anything really personally attacking the guy. I welcomed him to show me the 2.0, said I liked the basic idea but like others was skeptical about motorcycle carbs on subie. Wrong size, tuned for wrong RPM and air flow needs, and hacked out the hood of an otherwise very nice old GL.
I don't understand why people come on here and ask for opinions, and then get mad when you give them honestly.
I had lofty aspirations of building an Awesome hi-comp ea82t once. It was a dumb idea. people told me. GD was one of them. I didn't like it but they were right. that was nearly 15 years ago. I still love the EA82 as a basic engine for what it is. It sure does rev smooth compared to the EA81. but I digress.
Dangit, if you read this. I really meant it. It's not personal. It's about the car. We care about the cars. I actually care more about your car than I do you since I don't know you but I've known these subarus since I was a baby. It pains me to see one willfully destroyed for a cheap giggle. I just didn't want to see you go past a point of no return and turn that lovely car your wife obviously loves into junk.
Take a chill pill and welcome back.
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I've got a working set of bulbs from an 78 wagon that bubbled up in a wildfire (only thing left of the car) And they still work.
OE tokico bulbs from 1978.
Show me the LED that will last that long and go through a raging fire that destroyed my fathers house and everything he owned.
Can't tell you how many LED flashlights I've had fail and start blinking or just glow dim/off color.
And then my 4 year old Samsung LED TV died last week. The LED backlights failed.....took the strips out and several individual "bulb" were burnt up.
Yeah I don't trust LED headlights. I just don't.
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So, If I have a full gasket kit, it would be easiest to do the timing and HGs OUT of the car, and at that time, I might be able to check the rod bearing movement if the oil pan is off, does this sound correct?
I do not necessarily have the TIME, but I have the extra vehicles, for it to be out of commission and be able to drive another as a loaner.
IF the HGs could be done IN the car, I was going to go that route...... but I do not think that I would have a good time with that OR checking the clearance on the valve3s, considering that it took so long to change the spark plugs.....
You can't really check the rod bearings even with pan off. maybe side clearance on 2 or 3 rods, but can't check the main clearances or out of round.
But you will get to examine the inside of it and see if there are metal shaving or other signs of issues.
pull the engine for the separator plate and it's the better way in general.
Thinking again I guess it would be a good idea to check the lash. I've just not found it to be an issue on most DOHC, NA engines. To GDs idea about grinding valve ends to set clearance rather than adjust shims.......I'm guessing you don't really have the proper tools to remove valves on this engine......You don't want to use an improper tool and end up gouging the walls of the bucket pots.......I'd just go with the shim change if you need too.
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Pin 81 is the AT/MT discrimination. Add a pin and ground it for AT
Pin 80 is the 'AT diagnostic signal" I would ignore it, leave unhooked
Pin 79 is Torque converter lock/unlock signal. Ignore it too, leave unhooked.
you could even pull the connector from either 79 or 80 and use it for the 79 ground.
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If you've got the time and resource I'd say yes.
Don't bother with valve clearance, if it's running well. Unless you want to do a lot of measuring and bucket shim thickness checking and and then math to figure out what to order.
Just keep the buckets in their correct order and replace them in the heads in the same bores.
Do the rear separator too. Might even consider pulling the pistons and putting new rings in, it will run cleaner/stronger.
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not sure if Subaru intended to make all the dashlights faintly glow as the diodes in the alternator failed or it's just some coincidence in the way Subaru wired the dash, either way pissed me off whenever i would buy a remanufactured alternator, install it just to have the dash lights glow even brighter, thats why i would just change it in the parking lot of the autoparts store.
yes this is on purpose. It's how they get all the lights to "prove" themselves at key on.
They're are diodes so if individual other lights come on it doesn't light the "Charge" light, but if "Charge" light is on all of them will be.
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HIDs and LEDs are obnoxious.
Special place in hell for those drivers that use them
That said, GD, I don't see anywhere in that package description that those bulbs are DOT compliant. Have you checked that?
The packaging translations also scream cheap quality garbage. Had any failures on them?
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My intake "pipe" is larger id than my intake.
Each side of the intake is only flowing .9 litres worth of intake volume, not the whole 1.8
The size of the intake above the split needs to be DOUBLE the intake diamter to even be stock flow.
Also, optimally, it should not be made from galvanized iron pipe
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Test the fans and relay circuit by setting heater to "defrost" setting or turn on A/C if it has it.
Fans should turn on. If they do, then I'm gonna say this car has no issue.
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I see nothing in here that says there even is a problem. IMHO, all this speculation about different causes are pointless until we get an actual temperature on the engine. 4 different temp sensors say nothing is wrong.
+1
An EJ15? soooo much water around those small barrels in the EJ case!!! Man I wish we got a few of those.
Doesn't surprise me at all it would not need to open thermostat or run fans at idle.
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The rubber piece isn't nessesary. Cheap pumps don't even come with it.
The 2 hole above the crank. There is a thin metal guide that goes there on MT models. It's there to prevent timing belt jumping on High RPM, sudden throttle on/off situations, more likely with a stick.
AT models don't have it.
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the YW wire and the YB wire from the Cruise computer (CC unit) need to make a an uniterupted loop for the system to operate.
CC unit puts out 12+ on YW wire.........One branch splits and goes to the switch to light the bulb when system on.
The other branch of YW wire Goes to the Normally closed clutch switch, through it, comes out as YL, then goes through the normally closed part of the brake switch , comes out YB and loops back to the CC unit.
If the 12v+ from the YW wire (pin 2) is not seen at the YB wire (pin 16) the system will cancel.
The starter relay interlock uses the other clutch switch.....not part of CC system. It can actually be bypassed entirely. Just wire it closed unless you really want eh clutch interlock for starting.
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Does your oil pump pulley still have it's guides on the edges?
And is there any chance you swapped the inner and outer crank gears? If you did you would see an issue like this
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03 Forester - Why the heck is the IACV $300+?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Sorry, my bad I meant Advanced. Brain fart on the "A" stores.
And Advanced auto owns worldpac, not the other way around.