Centrifugal
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Posts posted by Centrifugal
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Seems your on a tight budget, don't forget to think about the cost of the adapter plate and flywheel re-drill/grind. This is the other big extra cost. Also the fuel system needs some thi... hang on, you have SPFI right? good, no problems there.
The rest is just small things.
The budget is probably a little looser than I implied, but we're talking high school student working one part-time job. On the plus side I spend money on nothing, ever. And I'm well acquainted with craigslist.
What's the price range for the adapter plate and flywheel redo? Possibly someone on USMB who can help me out?
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a Justy with...a VTAK! TURBO VTAK!
so you can own all the noobs, of course.:-\
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best bang for the buck, and best way to save yourself some serious headaches, is to get your hands on a '90-'94 legacy (ej22e).
That was kind of my tentative plan...
the transmission makes no difference, as long as you plan to use your loyale trans. my donor car was a FWD auto....and that was what I needed to know for sure. Much thanks.
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'93 Loyale, motor's got one foot in hell, I'd rather put an EJ in than deal with the old EA. From what I've read: more reliable, better mileage, sounds cooler, wayyy more fun. The latter of course being my typical teenage priority.
So, what's the cheapest and easiest EJ I can shove in the Loyale? Also, does the donor car have to be a manual (which mine is) or does it matter?
Very very low budget, minor amounts of mechanical experience but I do have this site (i.e. Numbchux's magnificent writeup) and plenty of good friends who know what they're doing.
Also, I'm only moderately sure this is in the right forum sector thingy.
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screw that, keep the xbox, trade out the pos2.
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For the record, I ended up basically taping two of the wires (can't remember which ones) together, in the dark, at 5:30am, and it stayed drivable...ish...for as long as it needed to.
Of course later in the week I ended up with a presumably cashed thermostat and a fat burn on my hand and previously boiling coolant all over my favorite shirt...but that's another story.
It still does need to be fixed though so everybody's input is still appreciated.
And to clarify it is indeed the red button on top of the shifter. Single range.
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i really wanna go, never been to one. but i have no drivable car and no ride.
so, uh *ahem* anyone in the gresham/troutdale vicinity of portland metro...
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If it aint broke, don't fix it.
it is broke. i can't turn the car without a heavy lurching effect.
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bump. i need this drivable by tuesday or wednesday.
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so i took it apart, for very little apparent reason, and i see three wires. a red, a yellow, and a white. which two should be connected to each other for the 4WD to be disengaged?
just, umm, curious.
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I wish I'd been able to get up there...
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Also, I was thinking of having a Old Subaru wrenching day at my place here in Portland, OR. I've got at least three bays available, heat, and Mac's Amber on tap. The deal would be we'd help each other wrench on our cars to make more progress, as well as share knowledge. Reply or send me a PM if there's interest and I'll find a good time here in the next three weekends.
i would be all over that, as a learning experience if nothing else, if i could actually drive my car (legally
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throttle cable seems fine to me, but we've established that's not an expert opinion.
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Maybe I'll just wait until I can afford to pay other people to fix things for me.
Or until I can afford a WRX swap
and thus eliminate the problems with the current engine.On a somewhat related tangent it brightens my day to know there's a bunch of similar Subaru kooks (in the most affectionate manner possible) out there who are kindly enough to help me.
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Don't mess with the other screw on the throttle shaft, your just asking for trouble then. If the Idle air screw didn't effect it, you may have other vacuum leaks.
Greeaat. Which probably goes beyond the narrow scope of things I'm able to mess with.
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It should be around 800-900 rpm I would think. That info may be on the emissions sticker on the underside of the hood.
p.s. emissions sticker is either gone or the type is all faded into oblivion.
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Should be lower. Adjust that idle screw in, however I think there's really only about 200rpm range of adjustment there. Someone may have messed with the stop screw for the throttle plate. Check to see if its still got the factory white mark on it, and that it hasn't moved..
screwed (ha!) with the idle screw for a bit and it indeed had very little effect.
i found the other screw for kicks, and it's got what would appear to be a white mark, where should that white mark be?
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well, with the mysterious thing removed, it now idles consistently at about 1200. which i guess is better than before.
does that work, or does it still need to be adjusted somehow?
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could you point me in the general direction of the throttle body?
wow, i feel dumb.
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Yup, supposed to be unplugged. The Green plugs when connected turn on the diagnostic check on the ECU, the white plugs will pull up stored codes.
The other connectors are diagnostic connectors.
thanks.
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What is the significance of these just dangling? are they supposed to be plugged into something? Each other?
Yet another question, and thanks for everybody's help as of yet.
I inherited this car from my mom and stepdad, he having done various things to it and probably screwed it up, but he's not here to point out what he did.
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adjust your idle.
umm...how do i do that?
thanks to all for help, btw.
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So i took the thing out, secured the little plastic connector, started it up, and was suddenly idling at about 2100. Does that still indicate that it just just needs a better clamp?
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The air intake hose gets hard over time, so that little spring clamp really doesn't do much anymore.
I did notice that...
figuring out what to do
in Subaru Retrofitting
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alright. thanks for the info, everybody. we'll see how this plays out.