subie_newbie
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Posts posted by subie_newbie
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When I took the ones off my 84 hatch I weighed them - 4lb front, 5 rear
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I've only got one front corner done with the six-lug conversion and pushing the suspension forward to clear the tire, so I have no idea about driveability thus far. I can forsee SPFI and then EJ22 in my future
The tires are a little too wide, but they're not nearly tall enough. Clearance is made with tires, using a lift kit just makes room for the big tires. I'm trying to get away without eating axles
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just thought I'd share some project progression to insipre all of the rest of you. Which tire size do you think I should use....
Also, I was thinking of having a Old Subaru wrenching day at my place here in Portland, OR. I've got at least three bays available, heat, and Mac's Amber on tap. The deal would be we'd help each other wrench on our cars to make more progress, as well as share knowledge. Reply or send me a PM if there's interest and I'll find a good time here in the next three weekends.
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Just a side note - the big tire on the front is a 235/75/15 - about a 28x8. I'm aiming for a 31x7.5 in there, and all measurements say it'll fit with a little loss of turning. Now I just need to find some....
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Hate to say it... sounds like:
1. Hole in piston - been using cheap gas? Pinging?
2. Cracked head - if you're smelling antifreeze, it might be coming through the exhaust, or your combustion gasses are pressurizing the coolant sytem to the point it pushed coolant out the cap.
3. Burned valve - have you blocked off the EGR? It could lead to a burned exhaust valve, which would significantly reduce compression and stop running in any meaningful way.
Either way, gotta pull the head on that side with bad compression.
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20/50 is some serious oil, and until it gets to running temperature will generate pressures in excess of 10 bar, particularly when you add in the extra plumbing of a dry sump system. Does it remain that high after the engine has been running to operating temp? Is that even possible on the ground? ... yeah, I'm not an airplane guy.
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I'm with Nipper: count em at the store. You'll be pissed when your 23 spline axle in a 23 spline box spins the roll pin as you back out of your driveway because it was really a 25 spline. Then you've gotta do it all over again and the parts store guys will just shrug their shoulders and give you another axle.
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Vacuum you need:
1. Distributor, on front of carb above throttle plates
2. EGR, on front of carb, next to dist. barb, but 1mm above
3. Choke pull off, mainfold vacuum
4. Brakes, large line manifold vacuum
5. Climate control, manifold vacuum
Then...
If you still have the charcoal filter (fuel vapor can) you need one for that
If you have an AAV (drivers side behind strut) you need one for that. Or ditch it, according to GD
If you have the stock air cleaner, temperature vacuum switches, PCV system and associated doo-dads, you'll need to route them according to a manual somewhere. But if you have this stuff, why are you messing with vacuum anyway?
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I'm pretty sure those seats don't come with any mounting brackets at all, just four holes in a 'universal' location on the bottom. You may be able to remove the brackets from the bottom of your Subie seats and install them on those, but I'm not familiar with Subaru seats as of yet. I know for my VW I had to fabricate brackets when putting in similar (but padded) seats.
Just a thought - those hard seats are going to KILL your tailbone the first time you hit a boulder or something. Consider the cheappie APC seats - they have bolsters, four-point harness holes, and only cost $100.
THIS IS FACT: if you're going to be driving your car on the road, and I mean at all, the only four-point harness that is FMVSS 207 and 210 approved (read: street legal AND safe) is made by Schroth. DON'T go installing an RCI harness or similar then drive your rig to mud runs or the grocery store. A 30 mph crash with a standard 'racing' four point harness WILL cause internal injuries. They are only intended for autoX and similar, nothing high speed. All they do is hold you into the seat firmly while you put your car through the paces, thus they would be great off road. On road, they'll kill you. Schroth is deisgned for road use, offered as an option on all european BMW's, act the same in every day use as the other four-points (hold you down firm), and are legal. Check out their website, watch the videos. You'll see.
Or go with a five-point with the anti-submarine strap that is used in high speed racing, and wear a cup every time you drive or ... well ... you get the idea.
Good luck with this modification. I think you'll find it to be more rewarding than you expect, as a bolstered seat an harness make driving sooooo much nicer. But hard seats will give you a brused rump roast
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as you can see from my picture, it may have already been unscrewed improperly as the wire is hanging on by a thread!
Also, I don't think this is a feedback carb as I have no O2 sensor. Am I wrong?
Thanks for the advice everyone
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Check the vacuum line from your intake to the brake booster. If it's lose, cracked, or just old and hard replace it - you may be getting intermitent vacuum or simply not enough. If it's not that, then the booster would be suspect. I'm assuming the feeling you're talking about is like the pedal is kicking back up at you? If you're feeling the whole car vibrate you've got a warped drum/rotor and need to get them re-remachined. You did get them machined when you replaced the pads, right?
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1. Ported
2. Ported, late
3. Manifold
As for the other ports, the center one is the bowl vent, and you want to vent that to either a charcoal recepticle, or atmosphere. The other ones are breather tubes of some sort. I'm not sure exactly what purpose they serve.
GD
Difference between 'ported' and 'ported, late' is,,,?
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I'm afraid I've messed something up... EA81 Hatch Hitatchi Carb
Please answer if you know with Port or Manifold
1. Distributor
2. EGR
3. Choke Pull-off Diaphrams
And then there are some ports on top of the carb, apparently one isn't supposed to be plugged... are there more that aren't actually vacuum?
If we identify these from left to right across the picture as 1, 2, and 3, which is what?
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1. Anti-Afterburn Valve (AAV)..... chuck it. You can search under my name and the name of the part. I've described it's operation in detail before. But trust me - you don't need it.
... AAV EGR port - direct port to the manifold..... see #1. If you chuck #1, replace the EGR with one from an SPFI manifold.
2. Return line to the tank. Allows the pump to not run "dead head" against a closed float needle.
3. It's either the fuel return or the tank vent line. I believe it's the vent though. If it T's into the same line that comes off the top of the vapor seperator, then it's the vent. I always get them mixed up.
4. Top - float bowl vent solenoid: someone capped off it's vent port though - that's a no-no. Bottom - idle circuit cut solenoid.
5. Hill Holder valve (HH).
GD
For #1, AAV: know a junkyard in PDX with a SPFI engine? Better yet, know one where I can yank the entire SPFI system! I've had no luck with the phone book, but most sounded like they didn't want to go look for me.
EDIT: GD, I searched as far back as 2002 but found no description of how it works, only that it is supposed to stop the exhaust 'popping' associated with decel. Any suggestions? Any reason to get the new EGR instead of just blocking off that port?
For the fuel return line (#3), any idea why it runs inboard of the brake booster then back outboard und the dash? Any reason not to re-route it? My reason: don't want a broken fuel line above my feet.
As for the fload bowl vent solenoid vent port - should it just vent to atmosphere? Should it be tied into the tank vent?
And...thanks 86bratman! As it says, I'm a newbie.
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Alright, what the hell. Looks like I'm not good enough to link pictures. I'll attach them...
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I've had my car for a few weeks now (84 hatch) and worked on it pretty steady - setting it up as an off-roader only. But there's some stuff in the engine bay I just don't have a clue what it is. Can ya help a guy out?...
1. This is behind the strut tower on the drivers side fender...
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060331.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br>
... and this is where it goes to, back of the carb above/on the EGR...
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060333.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br>
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2. Fuel line: is the return just a T off the main pressure feed, such that when the needle closes the excess pressur/fuel returns to the tank? Wouldn't that continually decrease the fuel pressure to the carb and possibly cause starvation?
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060334.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br>
3. Fuel return line: why the hell does it go inboard, through the firewall, then back outboard? Is this just so if the line goes bad the drive gets gas all over his feet? How about in a wreck, when there's also potential for spark - great, a fire setup!
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060336-1.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br>
4. Hitatchi carb part identification. What are these two electric gizmos? The big one on the right looks like a throttle position sensor, but way to high?
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060335.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br>
5. Hill holder system?
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060337.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting"><br><br>
6. Ok, now I'm just showing off my latest goodie for the subie...
<img src="http://i46.photobucket.com/albums/f115/torgysbuick/P1060338.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket - Video and Image Hosting">
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On my '84 struts the letters FWD with an arrow ( -> ) are stamped into the cap. take a flashlight and a close look, maybe yours have it too. they're on the outside of the vehicle on mine, so you might want to look on the inside if you think they're 180.
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Search for 'open differential' and 'welded differential' or 'limited slip differential' on google. Basically, stock most of our cars came with open diff's, meaning only one side at a time (left/right) would get power. This allowed the car to turn very easily (when you turn, outside wheel must travel faster than the inside wheel and if they are 'locked' together one tire must scrub against the pavement to remain moving at the same speed as the other). A limited slip (LSD) would keep power going to both wheels, but allow one wheel to 'slip' internally when going around corners. However this means when we are in slippery conditions, only one wheel gets power and only one spins. There's a sticker on the rear duff, look and see if it says LSD in big letters.
The front differential of our cars is internal to the tranny, and really can't be locked or limited slip without major modification and loss of the ability to turn.
Basically - nothings wrong, that just how they were built. If you want an off road machine only, weld up the rear differential so those two wheels always turn together (look it up!)
As a side note, the dual range acts as a center differential locker (between the front and rear), essentially requiring the front and rear to turn at the same speed. Since you are getting one wheel front and rear spinning, there's nothing wrong there, either.
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It is very common. If you're worried about sound dampening or rust protection or just want it to blend in, you can buy spray-paint cans of 'repair' undercoating. You really don't need it!
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I need to know how the fuel line routing works on a carb'd 84 hatch. I'm ignoring the carbon canister since I don't have one anymore.
Here's what I've got so far:
- Four lines front to rear
- One is return
- One is vent (used to go to canister)
Then, one looks to be pressure/feed, goes through the base of the filter and to the carb...but....
Then a line t's off the pressure line at the carb, returns to the TOP of the filter, but also t's at the filter and returns to the rear of the car by, for some reason, going a foot inboard then through the firewall then all the way across the driver's feet under the dash, then rearward in the car. WTF????
Can anyone tell me what this fourth line is, and if I'm correct in assuming one of the four is a return? Anyone have a schematic drawn up?
THANKS!
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Ok, it's a 2bbl hitatchi, no O2 sensor so no control. Should the jets be changed? I've already done the manual secondaries conversion mentioned in the USRM and decreased the fulcrum/increased the stroke on the accel pump (simple redrill farther up the pivot shaft). I also added a real return spring because the stock one was a bit weak and didn't quite get it back to idle.
Now what?
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What we're talking about: 84 hatch EA81 stock
How do I tell what carb I've got? I've read here and there about an adjustable (via ECU?) hitatchi; does that mean there's also a non-adjustable Hitatchi? What does the ECU adjust on an adjustable? I understand all the stock carbs were pretty worthless, but are there advantages/disadvantages? A search turned up a bunch of sticking throttles and snokles but nothing specifically for identification and advantages/dis.
Thanks! -Newbie
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Jesus friggin christmas, what do you do, GD, that allows you time to find friggin sweet clips like that AND have intricate knowledge of mathamatics and CV/U-joint theory???? NACCO? Freightliner? Pierce? Only an engineer is geeky and cool enough to pull that off!
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Actually it's a 3 groove, you just haven't seen the PS system to understand. The 3rd groove is between the alternator groove, and the AC groove. You probably just thought that was a vacant space.
GD
Sweet! Learn something new every day. Those crazy Japanese engineers think of all kinds of crazy stuff...20 years ago...
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Chiming in a compliment...
I bought my old Subaru and subsequently found this message board about three weeks ago, and I must admit I didn't have high expectations of its patrons (think toothless and creepy). I'm a Mechanical Engineer and was thinking I'd find tips about sticking toothpicks in the choke to make 20 h.p. and how to wire in a DVD player to your 86 beater. However, what I've found is willing help, reasonable discussions and points being argued in a civil and intelligent manner, and a hell of a lot of brow beating. And, of all things, discussion of calculus and statistics. All of these make for a lively and interesting place to visit every day, and so I'd like to thank all of you active and inteligent members that make owning this new toy much more interesting and fruitfull.
And I get 12mpg.
But the motor's aincient and I haven't done anything to it yet...give me time.
Electrical Problems
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
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If it sat, the first thing to check are your ground connections from the battery to the body and the engine block. if they get loose/corroded/looked at wrong they'll cause all kinds of strange electrical problems. Plus, it's very easy to just pull them off, sand, put them back on.