subie_newbie

Just a note for everyone bemoaning the rust-belt: Your problem is spreading; Oregon started using a liquid de-icer three years ago that is only put on the roads once and is supposed to work all winter. Very cost effective... oh, and it's three times as corrosive as salt.

There are things working for and against each tire. Here's how it works academically: Larger diameter tires decrease your gear ratio making the engine run at a lower RPM for the same speed = better fuel economy However, larger diameter tires also weigh more and take more throttle to accelerate the same = less fuel economy. Also, your larger tires are a wider tire, which will create more rolling resistance = less fuel economy. What happens in reality is people that can handle the slower acceleration and drive with the same light right foot will notice a difference from a major change in tire diameter to a bigger tire. Wider tires will always hurt your economy (think pedaling a mountain bike vs. a road bike). Most people will notice no difference when going to a smaller tire other than their car is more peppy, unless they drive a lot of cruising miles. Good luck!

I would like to add one little side-note to this thread: when checking resistances in any circuit with a light bulb, be it a headlight or a dummy light, dash lights or the glove box light, you will NOT get infinite resistance. Any coil/transformer will work the same way (such as those in relays or the ignition coil itself). I saw awhile back he stated he's getting resistances in the tens of thousands of ohms - beware you're probably seeing some circuit board or relay coil and not a true problematic short. Think in the tens of ohms when looking for major problems.

if you used a c6 you'd double the weight of the car!!

Oregon is like a really beautiful woman; often tempermental, but she's worth it, and when others see you with her they're oh-so jealous. Caboobaroo, I'm sure she's waiting with open arms to welcome you back. /braggart hijack

Caught me... I'm an old GM guy, so I figured the hoses went into the passenger compartment. Thanks for the update.

I think NEW single wire O2 sensors are around $30, so don't go blowing $30 at the junk yard when you might be able to get a new one for the same price. I stand corrected. $15 ebay FTW!

If you get a pipe joint in the right diameter (5/8"?) you can just cut the hoses inside the engine bay with a razor blade and lift them quickly, insert the splice into one, then push them together, clamp. At most, you'll spill a cup or two, plus whatever comes out of the heater core side (minimal). This way, you don't have to dig under your dash right now, it will be easier to just pull the heater core into the passenger compartment without needing to worry about the hoses being too short and messing with hose clamps while on your back, and it'll force you to get new hoses, which you should do anyway.

Thanks for the input everyone. The Corrado and 68 Mustang are up on the chopping block, then I think it's an Impreza for me. Something with disk brakes and a 2.2... or a 2.0T

Hey all, I sold my AC system complete with the radiator fan, but I'd really like to have a second fan up there since most of my car's duty is at slow speed full throttle Are there any better-flowing options that fit behind that HUGE water pump shaft? Anyone in PDX have a stocker laying around I can come pick up for a few bucks?

What does she weigh?

Wow that is WICKED ugly.

What year OEM will fit? i.e. what years was the hatch the same shape?

How much? Any idea what shipping to Portland would be? It seems here in the subaru NW I'd be able to find one in a junkyard. 96 had them, though, that's kinda what I'm trying to find out.

So does that mean heater core in this car? Usually it's passenger side...

Or, just see if your pass. side floor is wet. When you turn on the defrost does your windshield get worse?

For temporary purposes, any sheetmetal will do. Just get a tube of copper RTV and goop it up, then give it a few hours to dry. Again, temporary. And, if you bolt the EGR valve back over the top of the new block plate and goop that side up, too, it'll plug the exhaust leak created and help hold the plate flat.

97 Legacy L, disks all four corners, all working, all warped 5k miles after being replaced. It's just part of the package. Of course, with the shuddering clutch, wind noise leaking past the door and window seals, road noise coming through the floor, and motor ticking I barely notice

And there should be a vaccum line to the EGR valve. Wood would work if wood could work if a wood chuck would chuck wood. Yeah, wood for temporary is OK, but not for long AT ALL. Like, fire danger Will Robinson!

I've found this post here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63167&highlight=legacy+spoiler But an ebay search turned up nothing and the other links provided by people didn't go anywhere. And what is a BG5 JDM? I get Japan Domestic Market - does that mean they're only available on Japanese models? First off, was a spoiler a stock option here? Something like this If so, anyone got one to get rid of? What should I expect to pay? Do I need to drill and put in nutserts? Any advice would be appreciated...

I agree. If you're up to it, threaten small claims for the towing. Once the axle is in and the car is home. But, of course, be willing to go through with it!

pinging or knocking will sound like a large electrical short, or someone smacking two hollow coconut halves together. Usually happens a lot all at once. It's an unmistakeable sound. I'm not too suspect of that vaccum solenoid. But one never knows. Can ya take a picture of it so we can identify it? The pinging is still a problem. I hate to even mention it ... could be a hole in a piston or a burned valve. I'm still putting my money on fuel pressure. Let us know.

What kind of oil are you running?

Get that fuel pressure reading before you go throwing parts at it. I just re-watched and listened to the video clip you first posted. I think there's something wrong with that nut that's located directly behind the camera... haha..ok, that's enough of that. But it raised more questions... Do you have a beastly exhaust leak or lack of exhaust? When you're driving it, does the car have a total lack of power, or is it really pathetic under acceleration and then sort of smooths out at cruising speed, or does it stumble upon initial acceleration and then pick itself up and do OK? Can you take an audio clip doing a partial and full throttle pull in second or third gear? Here's two new thoughts. What if the passenger side timing belt jumped a tooth? Your timing would still look good, and you'd probably be able to run, but your mileage and power would be horrible. No? Ok, how about this one. If your EGR system is a total funky mess and is blocked wide open, you'll be shoving way to much exhaust into the intake at the wrong times, making for a crappy fuel burn, more throttle required to go the same speed (bad mileage) and really bad and erattic running. Flamers? Anyone? Remember, I've never even seen at an EA82! One more thing: if you're broke, as it sounds like you are, don't waste your money on high octane fuel. You don't need it with that motor. If you're hearing knocking, that's a sign of something totally wrong, not a sign you need better fuel. On a totaly possible thread hijack, you'll actually get better mileage and power out of lower octane fuel if your motor's compression is low enough to run on it, which your is.

I feel for ya. Back to the car... the poor fuel economy bothers me, too. Ok, I'm stumped. Keep everyone informed. Where's GD when you need him, eh?