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subie_newbie

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Everything posted by subie_newbie

  1. Actually, GD, the crank pulley on my 84 ea81 is a two-groove: one for alternator/water pump, one for the AC. The car never had power steering, so would that be the third groove that isnt there? Either way, I went to a single grove pulley - I know it's paultry, but the less rotating mass the better. Now to bolt on 40 lb. mud tires!!!! :-\
  2. I'll try to get a good digital photo of the instructions as they are in acordian-map format; about 2'x2'. As for the LHD advice, it's alllllllll wrong. Except for the AC bracket, wherein weight reduction was the main goal of this process of course it's been removed and replaced with a non-AC bracket. For curiosities sake it is a non-power steering car. And an addition - I am keeping the additional electric fan simply because this is a strictly off road high RPM beater and I'll need the cooling. That's something someone can pick up at a local boneyard for a few bucks. Golddiggerroo - if you want to pony up $75 plus whatever shipping is, it's yours.
  3. I've completely removed the AC from my 84 hatch via the original port-installers directions/diagrams. I've done it right, no cutting, no bashing. I have the diagram, original 'option' sheet signed by the installer at the port of delivery, and the entire system - fuses, connectors, relays, all of it, except for an engine-bay hose from the condenser to the evaporator that can be bought at any auto parts store. It's in great shape and has a newer compressor. I don't want this. Does it have any resale value? Anyone here want it?
  4. The idea here is as Goobaroo just stated - extend the leading rods (didn't get the terminology right - sorry). It would require at least modifying the inner control arm mount, but probaby no cut/weld on the control arm. The tie rods would need to be cranked out, but again probably not cut and lengthend. Then there's the question of why... because I don't want to do what everyone else has, basically! These cars have been worked over every way to tuesday so there's a known workable path, but I'm the kind that wants to experiment and find something new to make people go 'how'd he do that?'. This is attempt #1!
  5. As I see it on my 84 Hatch, the limiting factor for tire size is the front edge of the cab footwell, and the classic solution is to bash the hell out of it and then put a lift kit on the car. Well, I don't have any money for a lift kit, nor for new axles all the time. But I do need bigger tires. So.... Why not extend the rear trailing arm about 3" and 'push' the whole front suspension forward? I know it'll mess up the alignment, but this isn't a daily driver and getting it 'close enough' will be good enough. And since I don't have a lift won't the axles be just fine with 3" out of stock, just like they would be with 3" of lift? Anybody tried this? Any good reasons not to? What about extending the rear suspension backward for the same reason?
  6. I've seen everywhere that Subaru didn't manufacture a wheel larger than 13", yet all the spares are 15". Instead of drilling out GM/Toyota wheels and hacking up the fenders to get 29" x 8.5" tires to fit, why not use four spare wheels with tall/skinny tires (snow tires, for instance). Anyone done it? Reason not to?
  7. Anyone have any experience with this? I'm worried about being able to unload 30" boggers with the motor in mostly stock form, and this would seem an easy solution for a low compression motor. Thanks!
  8. You all speak the truth! I got a new axle and it went on just fine! Thanks for all the help! {original post} Hey all! I just picked up my first Subaru (84 GL 4spd dual-range, 2 door hatchback) for the explicit purpose of beating the heck out of it off road. But, first it must go... The previous owner replaced the front axles, but got a 25 spline axle somehow on the passenger side. Then drove it... the results are predictable, the axle sheared off the roll pin and messed up the splines, although how bad I do not yet know (just got it tonight, only can see with a flashlight). To top it off, I drove it home 40 miles in 4wd because, well, there was no other option really. So, assuming the tranny output shaft is toasty, what do I need to do? Is there hope I can just put on the correct axle and be ready for off road abuse? Now to add to the general confusion: If I do need to pull the tranny, what can I do to make the front end LSD or spooled? Anything else I should do? Is it even practical/realistic? I'm not driving the car any at all other than too and from wherever we're wheeling (60 miles most), then in the mud, so day to day isn't a concern. What is a concern: cost. Not really interested in the 5sp swap because it sounds difficult and too expensive for no real gain I can see. If there is, convince me otherwise. Thanks for helping this newbie out!
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