subie_newbie

Nice find, I never would have thought to pull up the FMVSS spec, even though I referenced the ones I'm familiar with. DUH. *hit's self on forehead* Dave, what exactly are you thinking of doing with this information? Going to pull out an old set of belts and see what it takes to snap them? If you do, please post your results!

Here's (click) an interesting page by a sanctioning body, but it doesn't give actuall strength numbers. For testing, FMVSS 207 and 210 requre a static load hold of 3000 lb each for the lap and shoulder belts simultaneously for 10 seconds, but that's primarily to test the anchor points in the body. The belts themselves were always certified by the supplier and I never got into that piece.

Just a general saftey note to everyone from an auto engineer that's spent a few years doing crash-worthiness testing: Nylon Seat belts (the ones everyone has) lose half their strength due to degradation every year, and after a maximum of four years most sanctioning bodies deem belts unsafe for use, most of those are every 2 years. Needless to say, our 20-odd year old belts are pretty weak - Replace them if you feel you are likly for a high speed frontal crash. If you use a 4-point harness, ONLY use Shroth unless it's specifically low speed racing or off road and the harness is only there to hold you to the seat during manuvers

Paid $400 w/ a "bad tranny" that turned out to be a 25 spline axle. Drove it 20 miles home and proceeded to tear it appart. In the middle of 6-lug conversion w/ Toyota rims and 31/7.5 boggers. Stock height. Exhaust. Fuel Cell. Usual engine clean-up stuff. Lightened. Sawzall'd body. Maybe one day I'll be able to go off-roading for real.

3/8, 5/16, 1/4 inch fuel lines

gotta break the rear axle mounts loose to let that crossbar drop to get the tank out. easy off and on eith an impact

Stock my 84 hatch was 2300 at a truck scale

On my 84 hatch (EA81) the smallest is the return, medium is the vent. Don't know if it applies to the EA82s

Welcome, fellow PDXer. SOme day all of us portlanders should get together and tear up Washington park or something

This board is such a weird mix of $1600 boost controllers and soup-can exhaust. We do span the spectrum

If you're feeling like throwing money away, I'm always accepting donations

Replace That Axle, Man!

We're not all democrats, just one of the last places where at least a bit more than half the people are smart enough to NOT be republican.

In my expereince, here in the Great NW the older Subarus aren't worth the scrap-metal they're built out of because of the proliferation of newer (97 and up) ones for cheap $$$$. Having said that: the older ones have a center diff lock, parts are plentiful, we don't have a rust problem, and they're easy to work on. Plus you can run them into stuff and not feel too bad about it, and stock tires cost $100/set SO: if you like the car, fix it and drive it; you'll only be in it a few hundred bucks and have a great reliable car people in other parts of the country would pay big bucks for. If you don't like it, part it out and be done, because resale is

I have often had rod knock that goes away after the oil pressure builds, maybe after 10 or 15 seconds, and the engines have ran for many many miles. Of course these are big V8's, maybe not applicable to the Subaru world, but advice none-the-less. So it's possible. I wouldn't be hitting 6K rpm any time soon.

Word on the street here in Scappoose is he blew up a rear end RIGHT AWAY, went back to the shop and got another one - swapped it out at the mud run. Then blew it up. Then trying to get out without a rear end he snaped a front axle. 300 hp sounds nice in type, but it seems in practice it just breaks stuff. YAY for my 69 hp!!!!

I saw somewhere on here a week or so ago someone talking about using a braided SS line from the oil pump up into the engine bay for a oil pressure gauge when one is planning on using the vehicle off-road. Whomever you are, or if you know, where does one find such a line and how do you splice it into the flimsy plastic tubing that comes with a mechanical gauge? I'd like to avoid running $100 worth of stainless line to a $10 gauge

to turn the engine by hand, use a socket and breaker bar or long socket wrench on the bolt in the center of the crank pulley. Rotate the engine backwards to dislodge whatever may be lodged whereever it may be. If that doesn't work, something's probably in the cyliner.

Yeahhhhhh.... um ..... yeahhhhhh. You might think it runs normal without the O2 sensor, but what it is really doing is running in an 'open loop' mode that is in the computer for when the car is cold or when something goes wrong. While it may clunk on down the road just fine, what's really happening is the injectors are just throwing a S*$& load of gas into your cylinders at all times. SO, not only will your gas mileage suck, but you'll also be a horribly gross poluter. If you're really as poor as all that, ride a bike - otherwise save up some of that gas money and get an exhaust shop to hack together a y with an O2 bung and a catalytic converter. Or grab section of pipe from ANY car in the junk yard that has an metric O2 bung and a cat, and clamp it to your flex pipe Y and then your muffler on the end of that. Then get a new O2 sensor for $60 bucks and WOW! ->30 mpg.

American passenger or onroad tires are marked in metric, i.e. 215/75/15 American off-road tires are marked in inches, i.e. 31x7.5x15 (that's 31" high, 7.5" wide, 15" rim) Interco Swampers and Boggers are the only tires that are true to their measurements, AFAIK.

Ah, I see. Well, like it says, I'm new here. Just trying to help!

+1 for ground battery cable. If you replaced it two years ago, just pull it off at the block and the fender and sand the connector and the block/fender where they meet, then reconnect. If you live in a rust state, spray on some electrical protector stuff (rattle can bought at any parts store). If you're still having problems check the positive with the headlights/wiggle the cable technique (I like that trick, Deron!). If still having the problem, jump the solenoid with gator-clip wire a few times and see if it still happens. If it happens - solenoid. If not - ignition switch

Apparently I'm the only one that watched the video. Here's where he's at: Engine cranks over. He said alternator and belts spin, and that's what he meant. No firing, but he's cranking over just fine. Starter spins on key release. That's the electric motor sound you're hearing, the starter dissengaging from the flywheel and the starter impeller spinning to a stop. I'm guessing that the starter click he's describing is the solenoid. However, the crank-over does sound a little strange, like one or two pistons aren't getting compression. My guess is also a broken timing belt, leaving two valves open. Check timing belts per what everyone else said.

You have a pretty good understanding of the situation. What you want is a Limited Slip Differential (LSD). Search (function) and you shall find.

Equipment is hit-and-miss. I just picked up a 6-ton arbor press, got oxy-acetaline, decent compressor, lots of grinders/drills/vices etc, and 220V. Don't have: metal fab equipement like Mig/Tig, shear/bender, drill press nor a worthy workspace/bench. But I have beer. Oh, wait, you're 19... NO BEER FOR YOU!!!:-\ But I'm thinking the same - a regular work time/spot would be helpful for all, and I"m willing to offer a starting spot if there's enough interest. I've changed engines in the apartment parking lot in the rain, and that sucks.