subaruplatt
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Posts posted by subaruplatt
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I can do the rotors myself, although I haven't yet. And have drove about 4 thousand miles on the warped rotors.
When you do the rotors, also do a quick check that the hub is not warped.
Who knows the previous owner may have curbed the car.
Bent hubs will vastly decrease rotor life.
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_parts/wheel_hub_assembly/subaru.html
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Aren't GR-2's a gas pressurized shock?
Your right the Stock 2000 outback shocks were likely already gas pressurized shocks.
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I am ready to put in the saab struts into my 06 impreza, they are a direct fit and have KONI inserts!
Anyway because people have commented on shocks I would say that KONI and Biltstien have shared the number 1 spot forever, especially their stainless models.
FYI I have read that the Tokico HP series are the next higher in regard to the KYBs.
I put in my gulf a brand called boge turbo gas and they were a lower midlevel price but much cheaper than bilstien. Anyhow because they were nitrogen pressurized it meant that the were really good.
Any kind of "Nitrogen" upgrade will be vastly better than non Nitrogen stock.
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I got Yokohama advan envigor tires and I love them.
They corner spectacularly! Great in the hot dry and in the wet.
They are not a winter tire at all!
I have been hearing good things about good year triple treads and I know the Nokian WR is highly rated should you desire a decent 4 season tire.
Cheers
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Hope you can help with advice on an optimal inflation level for our driving conditions given that the recommended Subaru numbers seem way low and deliver lower mpg.
The recommended tire pressure for our 2003 Outback VDC 3L H6 is 30 PSI front, 29 PSI rear on the sticker in the driver's side door well. That seemed way low and delivered lower mpg and poorer/softer handling. However, a nearby Subaru dealer recommends adding 1 PSI for each additional 40 lbs., whether passengers or cargo.
My wife is usually with me for 50% of driving during weekdays and nearly 90% on weekends, and that adds another 130 lbs, not to mention we’re either hauling groceries on weekends or taking two friends on hiking/backpacking/cycling trips (add another 300-350 lbs in the rear seat) and either a bicycle hitch (add 35 lbs) and two bikes (add 50 lbs) OR hiking/backpacking gear (add 40-100 lbs depending on trip and number of people).
In addition, 95% of our driving is in the mild close to sea level San Francisco Bay Area, dry for 6 months out of the year with sunny daytime temps of 75-85F and nighttime of 55-60F, and winter daytime temps of 50-65F with alternating sun and cloudy rainy windy days and winter nighttime temps of 35-45F. We take winter trips into higher snowy elevations in Tahoe, Yosemite and other locations, up to altitudes of about 8000 feet.
Our high performance tires can be inflated up to 44 PSI. We typically inflate with Costco blend of 90% nitrogen and 10% oxygen so that the tires are less prone to expansion and contraction due to changes in weather.
The Subaru recommended number seems way low, and the car gets lower mpg at this inflation and softer/poorer handling. On the advice of one local Subaru dealer service guy, we inflated all the tires to 34 PSI. Found this even a bit low, and inflated to 36 PSI in all tires, which of course gives us better mpg.
Questions:
1) What would be the optimal tire inflation level for us for late spring, summer and early fall in our area given our weekday and weekend use and not having to constantly adjust tire pressure up for weekends and down for weekdays?
2) What would be the optimal tire inflation level for us for late fall, winter and early spring?
3) Should we be inflating 1 PSI lower in the rear following the original Subaru recommendation in on the sticker in the driver’s side door well?
4) Based on the recommended typical inflation for our regular conditions, should we inflate the tires more for venturing into the snowy mountains, and if so, how much more?
5) Will the Costco 90% nitrogen and 10% oxygen mix contract much in cold weather in the mountains?
6) Why would Subaru have originally recommended such a ridiculously low inflation of 30 front and 29 rear?
I recently discovered that 35/32 at +3˚ c = 33/30 at -3˚ c with a 93 load index tire. I have found that the higher you exceed the stock load index, and mine was 89 stock vrs 93 replacement . The higher the load index the less likely you will ever need to over inflate past stock.
It is possible that your stock tire/load index was plenty capable with 30 psi.
If you want more psi then you will need different shocks.
I wouldn't be comfortable with nitrogen unless I carried it with me in the car, maybe it's better I just don't know. What's heavier a pound of nitrogen or a pound of air?
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No big deal it's just something I always wanted to know.
My VR6 Gulf I used to have had 67% of the weight on the front wheels.
Now I have only 57 %
AWD is suposed to be 60/40, makes sense.
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A suburban will never see 50 mpg, the laws of physics won't let it at the speeds and acceleration rates most Americans drive at. You're talking a 6000lb brick you're shoving through a fluid that does not want move out of the way. Now, with a small six, CVT, lowered, removed mirrors and roof rack, belly pan, and do no more than 50mph, you might see 40 mpg with a tail wind. However, do you really want to be the slowest SUV on the road?
With the technology we currently have, Mars is about the distance we can go. Just as the Moon was the farthest we could go back in the sixties. This is the bleeding edge of technology, which takes over the top funding to supply the equipment, knowledge, personnel, and time needed to do projects like these. Ever calculated the difference .1 degrees makes of where you end up at a distance of a million miles?
Until (or if) scientists figure out how to get to and beyond the speed of light, we are stuck with go fast and use more fuel or go slow and use less fuel.
We Americans are speed demons. We want to go fast, turn fast, go anywhere, and haul anything all a the same time while spending as little as possible at the pump. It doesn't work that way. If we want good mileage, we first must slow down.
Our Subarus are all weather vehicles - We sacrifice mileage for traction and stability. If you are a Subaru freak, like myself, then you must build a high mileage Subaru by sacrificing the all wheel drive for FWD, use the most efficient Suby engine out there with a tranny that has a good overdrive, and put it into the lightest and most aerodynamic shell Subaru built. The reality question is: If you are getting an average of 10 mpg more than a stock Subaru, how many miles will you need to drive that car to make up the cost of building such a high mileage Subaru? Is it cost effective? Probably not, but it would be a fun project!
Forgot to mention Saftey! These things hold up well in a crash, at least mine did.
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In a ideal world we would drive around with a deicer and a sprayer for the wheels in the winter.
Once in montreal I had to waste two bottles of wiper fluid to get the ice of my rims. The wheel wobble would have hurt my wheel bearings with the long drive back to TO 6-7 hrs.
But back on the topic of ABS the best advice about ABS that I ever heard I read in a VW owners manual. It read " If you detect the activation of ABS, adjust your driving habits accordingly. ".
You freaked out your abs:drunk:
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I am digging up one of my old threads. But I found the answer.
My 06 Wagon has 57% of the cars weight on the front wheels.
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Thank you so much for all of the advice!
Do you think the valve lash clearance would have been adjusted when I had to have the head gaskets completely redone after the overheating incident?
I'll have my mechanic check the struts/CV boots, ball joints and tie rods (Those are all related to the axle and wheels, right?) and PS (?power steering) as well as checking/changing belts and hoses.
I also forgot that I had the alternator replaced at about 150,000 miles. So maybe that will be good for a while. I don't think it was a Subaru part though...
Someone can check the valve clearance for you. Do you need to do it? As the valve seats wear in the valves may stop closing. Unless they are shortened and moved away from the cam.
Shocks and bushings, maybe whole struts. Try new upper strut bearings too.
Sterring rack ? what else is there?
Maybe throw in a fresh rad an hoses.
I think that if you like the car 2-3000 $ isn't a lot to bring it to mint.
Even
Are you being ripped off?
New dampers would be a treat, a couple of bushings new tie rods might be good .
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I have o6 impreza without sport shift. I can down shift/ upshift very smoothly.
The 4-eat in my opinion isn't for power shifting, however.
In the city I generally prefer third. Down steep hills from a stop sign i use second.
Did you try a tany drain and fill with genuine subaru fluid.?
Also one thing to consider is that the torque converter lock is only after full transmission warm-up. Gets a bit bounced around until then. Sometimes I don't go past 3rd if I feel it's warming up.
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As many of you are aware Sunoco bought Petro Canada.
Some of the Petro Canada stations now carry 94 octane.
I have been fueling at south Kingsway near the Queensway for toronto people.
I have run 3 tankfulls of the stuff through my subaru and I have good things to say!
I have achieved a 10 percent improvment in fuel economy and I am regularly going 11 KM for every litre I put in. I realize that with this extremely warm weather cars tend to produce less power but get improved fuel economy in return.
So I will have to see how it pans out in the colder months.
I can definitely see that the engine runs quieter and smoother, better torque.
I know it isn't necessary or even recommended but why not do it? After all improved fuel economy smoother performance seem to at least partially justify the extra cost.
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Just one other alternative that I thought I might mention.
Although you have expressed interest in a forester and also want to stay at 20 grand. One thing I would consider.
The new impreza launches this fall. The auto is said to get 37 mpg us gallons !
This car will cost between 25 and 30. There might be a 23 ish model one would hope.
Subaru bills this car as the most fuel efficient AWD car on the market.
The impreza doesn't sit SUV high like the forester but rather makes even more of the cars already low centre of gravity.
Just a thought ?
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Could it be there is a vacuum leak in the system? Testing as Nipper described should show if the booster is wrong. However I thought that after pumping the brakes you need to keep the pedal pressed and then start. It should move to the floor.
I agree with the vacuum leak theory because it sounds like the feeling I get when stopped at a light with the car idled down.
The idle is such that with AC and what not the normal power reserves decrease.
Back on the throttle and sleepy time is over!
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I own a 2006 Forester. In 2005, the 2.5L got two position variable timing and went back to mechanical valve lifters. What's the best way to service the mechanic valve lifters? Is it like the "bucket and shim" mechanical lifters on the 2.5L DOHC? Do the valves need to be adjusted at a certain mileage , or do you wait to hear some light valve tapping? Any information would be appreciated. Thanks.
http://ken-gilbert.com/impreza-manuals
They have a service manual pdf for your car. It's huge!
The lifters are screw type adjustable roller rockers.
Make sure that they aren't too tight when you do them. One does them with the engine cold, on a hoist. With a foil gauge spark plug thing screw driver and wrench.
Some play is an essential part of this design as it allows for valve seating, engine expansion, and wear.
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clean out/reseal the idle air control valve. really common on older subaru's for them to get dirty and stick. i haven't personally seen it yet on a newer subaru but quickly found this:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242
that's a newer Ej engine than yours i think, but the idea will be the same. remove it, clean it out and reinstall. they rarely fail so shouldn't have to replace it.
I used to just pour gas-line antifreeze into the pickup tube for the idle air control valve and wash away the gunk. VW VR6
It would burn it through system.
After a couple of coughs and puffs good to go for another season.
Run some gas-line anti freeze through it to the point of choking it for a start!
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so started working on it. Tried swapping the rear struts doesnt appear the strut is bent but possibly the hub. Anyone experience the hub being bent.
My experience with a VW was that when I curbed the car I put a warp in the hub.
The Consequence of this was that the warp would eventually radiate outwards and seed warpage of the rotors. I had several expensive brake jobs done before someone finally figured it out why.
Also if hit hard enough wheel bearing might be pooched as well.
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At about 60 K KM I had both rear pads replaced as they were wearing on an angle.
Apparently without cleaning and anti-seaze compound they bed that way.
The front pads had about 50% left still but I replaced them anyway.
PS I didn't machine the rotors just changed pads and every thing was fine.
This is the first time with a car I have neither had to have the rotors turned or replaced.
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I like the magna flow idea tooo!
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http://www.boschautoparts.com/VehiclePartFinder/Pages/VehiclePartFinder.aspx
15730 Oxygen Sensor - OE SmartLink - Universal Fit - Downstream Sensor 4 Wire; Heated; Check / Replace Interval: 100,000 Miles H4-2458cc 2.5L FI EngDesg EJ253 GAS
15170 Oxygen Sensor - OE Type - Exact Fit - Downstream Sensor 4 Wire; Heated; Check / Replace Interval: 100,000 Miles H4-2458cc 2.5L FI EngDesg EJ253 GAS
15169 Wideband A/F Sensor - OE Type - Exact Fit - Upstream Sensor 4 Wire; Wideband A/F; Check / Replace Interval: 100,000 Miles H4-2458cc 2.5L FI EngDesg EJ253 GAS
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I found this and I got a 135 MB folder for my 06 impreza.
Is this unacceptable fuel mileage?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Your car probably weighs more than less safe vehicles remember that.
If your not going more than 40 miles per hour you can leave it in third. Mine hunts, at speeds past city but not yet highway sometimes.This transmission has a problem with this in-between range.
Sounds like it's the uphill trek that really does you. It's not like a hybrid when you have gained something going down.
Sometimes when the car is warm I can drive up hill and it will not down shift into third and sometimes it does.
As an aside I learned that one can shift the auto without disengaging the cruise. I have done so into third to add extra engine breaking downhill on logging roads.
I believe that the car will never lock the torque converter if the temp sensor thinks it's cold. With mine the torque converter is loose until the car is warmed up, to encourage revving and rapid warming of the engine.
The only other things are tires i.e. low mpg tires, break drag.
Not sure if fresh bearings do much, hell maybe old cv joints eat up energy.
Hell maybe there is a brand or form of cv which is more efficient than the other?