subaruplatt
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Posts posted by subaruplatt
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Did a 7.5 liters per 100 km or 31.4 mpg U.S run a week ago.
Highway cruise at 119 kph or 74 mph.
Test run of 152 Km used 11.4 liters.
Cold tire pressure 34 lbs back 37 lbs front.
2/3 of the time with AC on full.
5/30 mobil synthetic, which I think is helping.
Ambient temp ranged between 21˚ and 26˚ C.
Would be neat if the torque converter could glide on demand a little better.
Surely Subaru could make a remap of the auto software expressly for this with no engine breaking. Would feel like a ford custom probably:lol:
Then again I love engine breaking!
Still is the only car I know of that lets me shift the auto with cruise control on! Automatic hill down shifting cruise control would be a plus and so easy to add. But then again
I am probably there to do something!
Lately I'm switching to synthetic oil and increasing factory tire pressures within reasonable limits, and employing better cruising habits.
Greater efficiency also would be seen if tire pressures could be regularly above 40 psi.
But in some instances wheel hop would be prohibitive.
Nitrogen shocks would better deal with the even harder tires.
By my logic better weight balance would also be a factor limiting wheel hop and could indirectly contribute to better fuel economy.
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Did a 7.5 liters per 100 km or 31.4 mpg U.S today.
Highway cruise at 119 kph or 74 mph.
Test run of 152 Km used 11.4 liters.
Cold tire pressure 34 lbs back 37 lbs front.
2/3 of the time with AC on full.
5/30 mobil synthetic, which I think is helping.
Ambient temp ranged between 21˚ and 26˚ C.
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I've been using full synthetic motor oil in my Sube since the 3k mile mark. Castrol or Valvoline. Changing it and the filter every 5k miles.
A while back I put Red Line 75w-90NS gear oil in the gear box and was amazed at the improvement in gear shifting. So about 2500 miles ago I decided to go for Red Line motor oil.
Since putting in the Red Line, I've found my Sube's engine to be noticeably smoother running; it even sounds smoother.
Well, I'd be a bit concerned with Mobil 1 0w-30 in hot summer temps. I may be wrong, but 0w-30's film strength might be compromised in, say, 90-100˚+ F driving, especially at higher speeds, even though it is a high quality synthetic.
I'd research this further, though.
Will definitely anti up for synthetic on the front and rear difs, when the time comes. Would love to know, I imagine the auto-trans fluid is already at least part synthetic as stock. What synth works better in a stock auto?
I would bet that with a thermostatic regulated oil cooler system you could make all the difference in extreme service rating and let you use 0-30. Especially if you broke the engine in properly and with that goal from the beginning.
Then again if price were no object we would all turbo the hell out of it and then run 15/50 in a heat sealed engine.
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I used to let some gasline antifreeze get sucked into the PCV system on my old VW. With a puff of smoke out from the tail pipe all isv problems got solved.
This was a very cheap fix at 99¢ each for a couple of little bottles.
And this problem was masquerading as electrical as the furry crud would tend to swell on wet days.
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Just thought I might do an update now I had time to put 1000KM.
On it with the new oil.
I haven't yet done a serious mpg or litre per 100 KM test. but I am immediately struck by the almost whisper like smoothness I am experiencing.
Tire noise is indistinguishable from that of the engine.
Nothing short of a minor transformation.
Having looked around the internet it is reasonable to expect at least a 4% improvement in efficiency.
Anybody use 0W-30 ?
Mobil seems to be claiming that you could be using it instead of 5w-30 for an additional 2%.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Oils/Mobil_1_0W-30.aspx
Any thoughts on this?
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Jiffy Lube and shops like them are after one thing.....money. The more often their marketing can get you to change your oil, the more MONEY they make. Marketing has been used to convince people that they need monster gas guzzling trucks and SUV's, 500hp cars, huge mc mansions, $5-$10K granite countertops, industrial appliances in single family homes and many other unnecessary, unsustainable and wasteful practices that have led us into our current energy crisis.
If you routinely tow, drive only short distances, idle frequently, drive in extremely dusty conditions then you should run oil analysis to determine how often your driving style dictates that you change your oil. This will also let you know if you have a mechanical problem such as water or fuel contamination in your oil or some other hidden mechanical issue that will lead to premature engine failure or accelerated wear.
Follow the owners manual recommendations. Better yet, have your oil analyzed and only change the oil when analysis indicates that it's necessary. I'll have to find the link, but one test group got close to 14,000 miles on Mobil 1 by running oil analysis in a Camaro.
Exactly! a Filter change and a top up could safely double your oil change interval with this grade of oil and there is even better oil, but regrettably factory says to do it at 6000 KM.
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If you meant 'kilometres', that's too soon to change your oil:banana:
If you mean '1000 x miles', that's another story....
Yes kilometers and I did the conversion 72,000 km = 44,738.726 miles.
For the 06 automatic impreza.
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are you sure you asked for the "severe" service recommendation? Jiffy lube uses that instead of the "normal" service.
"Normal" service intervals are carefully spaced just short enough to make the components last 'till the end of the warranty (i.e. 100k mile transmissions fluid change recommendced on some new cars...yeah right), where the "severe" recommendation is really closer to what the car needs to last forever (severe service recommends fluid changes at closer to 40k or 50k for those same cars).
~Erik~
Just a pile of BS if they had said 48Km I might have said great that's proactive thinking.
24Km is pure bare faced lying.
Check your facts!
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<<Not sure about the synthetic coated pistons, then again it's what my Subie dealer uses.>>
what are you talking about?
The black part on the piston below the rings is a synthetic coating.
Not sure what year subaru started doing it, but my o6 has it.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=907570
Piston Coatings
Dry film lubricants, also known as solid film lubricants, provide a lubricating film that reduces friction, inhibits galling and seizing, reduces piston scuffing, extends cylinder bore life, and in some instances can aid in dispersing heat. One of the obvious reasons for using a lubricating coating is to reduce friction, which improves wear, extends part life, and frees up power normally lost due to friction. A second major benefit is a reduction in part temperature. As well, no machining is 100% perfect, so the coating will wear and make up for very slight differences decreasing blow by.
Most dry film lubricants are Molybdenum Disulfide based. Why not Teflon? PTFE, also known as Teflon, is listed as having the lowest coefficient of friction (COE). However, under high speed and load, the COE of PTFE degrades while that of MOS2 (Molybdenum Disulfide) improves, until it is significantly better than PTFE. Moly also attracts oil, keeping an adequate film on the part unlike PTFE, which sheds oil.
Dry film lubricants are primarily applied to piston skirts.
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Well I finally took the plunge.
At 31.5 Km I went mobil 5-30 in the impreza.
On a related note I found out that Jiffy lube will Lie to you about your service intervals.
They suggested that I needed to have a complete differential and transmission fluid exchange at 24 Km.
I new it was 72 Km but called subaru. yep 72Km for the Auto and 48Km for the manual.
The dealer was at least 10% cheaper.
Hopes and dreams for this oil, who knows?
Not sure about the synthetic coated pistons, then again it's what my Subie dealer uses.
Really have had positive experiences in the past with synthetic oils.
I guess my my jumping point was when I saw just how quickly the subaru broke down plain old oil last winter.
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Looks good.
But adds more fuel to my idea that subaru "changed" ahem the impreza so they could ultimately change the legacy into what the impreza used to be.
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Yokohama has sporty all-seasons. Look at the entry level pure sport range.
They don't quite last as long as your regular stock all-season hockey pucks, but drive much better. New silica compounds are good on ice!
Combine that with almost any snow tires on plain steel rims for when it is cold. Your golden!
Remember steel will slide on concrete while aluminum will bind, ( ripping out your suspension ) .
Just the simple act of changing your rims in the winter to steel will ultimately save you money when you are much more likely to curb your vehicle.
Also snow tires cost no more money as they can last as long as your sumer tires if you get them off at the right time in the spring.
I found this weird eastern european brand of snows called Sava Eskimo.
I give them an extremely positive review.
Lots going for them and they cost half the price of the supposed premium.
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Hey guys,
New to the forum here. Searched the forum for an answer to my question, but didn't find one.
I'm looking to buy my first Subaru (2006 Legacy Sedan 2.5i). The seller is advertising it as a Limited, and when I run the NADA by VIN as well as run a CARFAX report, they both come back saying it's a limited. However, it has cloth seats.
Is it possible to have a limited without leather seats? If not, I'm confused why the VIN comes back as a limited if it is in fact an SE. I'd like to get this figured out, since there's a difference of about $1,000 between the SE and the Limited that I'm looking at.
Thanks for any help.
Both have cloth seats the better one has the integrated headrest,and a better grade of cloth.
The LE also has automatic temp, ipod jack Auto dimming, maybe homelink. Better Jazzed up stereo oh and fog lights and I forgot 7 spoke wheels, are included.
Both have identical power trains bodies etc.
In canada at the time. the upgrade cost $1500 list retail.
Very nice car!
I have the base level 06 wagon Auto.
These are decent cars, top in their class!
I
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OK it's that time again and Tire Rack has some incentives.
My 05 OB came with Bridgestone Potenza RE92 and I haven't been left stranded (good sign). I live in lower Connecticut with fairly light snow conditions.
On Tire Rack, the RE92 reviews seem to indicate that buyers would rather stick a needle in their ear than buy them again so...
Much more highly rated in the Bridgestone family Potenza RE960AS Pole Position (sounds racey huh?) or the Turanza Serenity with the Serenity receiving slightly better reviews (probably written by the sales staff last Friday).
Anyway, either way, they will cost about $101 each (after rebate) + $39 total shipping.
Opinions?
I think one should have both summer and winter tires.
But economize on both.
Pretty good snow tires on metal rims. I vote Sava Eskimo. These tires are great on the highway!
Base line Michelin sport "pilot" tires or equivalent for summer. I had a nice pair of Yokohama tires on my last car for summer. Entry level sport is the way to go.
The secret is to look in that category then choose the best one for you.
This is your best chance for decent tread wear but still having some fun on real hot days when traction is optimal.
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.I can hear the ricers in 20 years....Man u gota here the new soundtrack in my Prius...It's teh sh*t. I goot 454, 4 on the floor.. It's effin BUMPIN!!!
Dolby Digital Rice™
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*faint*
nipper
Just get rid of the sudo Alpha Romeo bumper!
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Yes the "Eskimos" are very good They are better than the stock Brigestones .
I hate to take them off.
Good load bearing so you don't have to constantly worry about pumping them
up. Lowest base tire pressures and still not a lot of squish in the tires.
Jaw dropping stopping abilities on dry roads (winter)
Absolutely no tire noise.
Excellent in deep snow,
Minimal wear first winter.
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If this where true, Subarus would not sell in Europe. But they have actually been gaining market share over there.
Subaru Needs to stay committed to AWD, durable vehichles. They just need to make them Diesel/electric hybids. If they do introduce a small 2wd *efficiency* car, it should be full electric.
I agree Better power sources like diesel. Maybe Haldex type AWD, ( scream! ) Please keep the four wheel drive and the extra strong frame.
One thing most people don't realize is how much safer the subaru is in a crash.
In my experience the subaru was the cheapest real car we could find.
Try and make up that kind of strength with less.
I have some swamp land to sell you in a town called EPA .
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Here is a site I found off of wrxatlanta.com, which is a forum started by my tuner and his buddies. Anyways, great information.
Quite good, anyone out there with the 2006-2007 impreza wagon?
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The slant 6 engine was way too reliable to be profitable.
It could outlast the car and still run perfectly smooth.
Those ramblers were probably one of the last really grate american cars.
Too bad they weren't pretentious enough to get any credit for what they were.
Hypermiling
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Be careful or you might be tending towards over-inflation. I wouldn't go any closer than 4 lbs from the maximum to allow for highway/hot weather expansion.