LegAC

A soob with the appropriate brakes, both vehicular and trailer, wouldn't be that bad. Just keep it out of overdrive and be cautious. Remember that you are doubling your weight. I wouldn't hesitate for a minute to do it on a soob with a manual transmission due in part to a good number of ratios, and the lack of reliance of fluid to transfer the power to the wheels.

Actually..... Yeah it is. It's just a window unit though. :cool:

Well, there was a Subaru filter on the car when I performed the first change, leading me to believe it was dealer maintained. The oil, which doesn't really change color in any of my other vehicles, turned dark VERY quickly. That leads me to believe it is quite a bit in the way of deposits being cleaned off. As far as leaking, I have a mini-lift system in my garage that lifts the car 2 feet off the ground and I can't find a single leak anywhere. Are factory rubber seals orange? I think the cam covers may have been re-sealed. I'm not a gear head, the lift came with the house. I'll have to have the PCV checked out. I appreciate the feedback. P.S. I usually just go the normal factory interval on my vehicle w/ synthetics. At least I know that the filter will perform for the 7,500 miles in question. I drive mostly highway miles anyway. 107K on the clock. I got everything else fixed. 2 CV joints, 4 wheel bearings, 1 clutch, 1 flywheel

I've put about 4,000 miles on this interval and I've managed to burn an entire quart of Mobil 1 High Mileage (which is super robust by synth standards). Is this considered normal. I try to keep my oil constantly topped off and it feels like I'm always pouring a little in. I've read about leak down test ect... If this is abnormal, how much should one of these tests cost. I've never had a car burn synthetic. EVER... Well... The one exception would be a couple of Chevys, but they suck.

I don't doubt what you are saying one bit. However, there are engines that don't require anti-drainback valves or the oil presure relief valve because they are built into the system. Some cars don't have these, and as a result, the aftermarket filter maker is supposed to match it. Unfortunately that is life and a sometimes an aftermarket vendor would rather make a buck than do what's right. It differs from application to application and vendor to vendor. I will say this, the Purolator PureOne, Fram Tough Guard, and to a slightly lesser extent Mobil 1 filter offer some of the highest levels of filtration when it comes to efficiency with smaller particles. The extra pleats make up for any restriction that would occur. I've seen countless Soobs have oil analysis done after using a non-OEM filter with good results. Like you were saying, it's application specific. Interestingly enough, my Subaru, my Acura, and my truck all use the same filter size. I can buy in bulk.

I'll save you some time and a filter. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html I know of a link to a simular site with actual filtration levels, but it will take me a while to research. Here is the official letter from fram reguarding the end caps and it actually makes sense.

Part of it is the oil following gravity and draining off the parts, part of it is the oil being too thick to get into certain grooves while things are thick, part of it is the fact that the pressure relief valve is open on both the oil pump and the filter which means reduced flow and no filtration, part of it is the activation of certain additives which increasingly react and do their job as the temperature rises, and there are other parts but it's 3:00 AM and if I hurry up I can give the wife a good Rogerin'. For every 100 posts on BITOG, you get maybe 3 that are worth anything. And by that I mean someone that thinks without spilling forth propaganda from both misinformation and the sponsors. The board is sponsored by Amsoil and Castrol. How often do you see Amsoil bashed on the site. Like maybe once a year? It's hard to be unbiased when the company you are talking about is paying the bills. That's why I don't trust much of anything on there without first doing research.

Fram filters are by no means horrible filters. They meet all manufacturer requirements for your warranty and in this case it may be OEM. It's just that you can get a better filter for the same money. That being said, it is simply a poor value. The main thing people complain about is the cardboard endcaps that seal to the filter media. Simply put, the adhesive seals better to cardboard than it does to metal because the cardboard has small pours and the metal is slick. The filter media is dense paper in most filters, yet it survives without deteriorating. Why can't more densely packed and thicker cardboard be used for end caps. However, the Fram Toughguard is an exception and is actually a fairly good filter for the money. Great filtration. I would not loose sleep if you had an orange can on your car. Just know the money could have been better spent elsewhere.

Are you dilusional? Are you on medication? Do you listen to Kelly Clarkston? Or maybe you are nuts. So now you are recommending a conventional oil to a guy that lives in New York and fall is around the corner? You just keep getting better and better. Startup wear is a majority of engine wear, and you recommend a slow pumping when fridged conventional. Good job. You really are brainwashed. You even recommended the two oils that they always throw out there on BITOG. My recommendation: Any 0w30, 5w30, or 10w30 synthetic that you can find on sale. Change to it during the fall and use it through winter. Unless you take LOTS of short trips, change the oil every 7500 miles. If you drive alot, feel free to use conventional when spring rolls around and change it after no more than 5,000 miles unless you have reason to believe that there is some additives left. EJ's don't have timing chains, so they don't shear the oil as some engines and there isn't much in the way of hot spots. They actually aren't that hard on oil. This excludes turbo'd applications that obviously are going to be a little more stressful. I'll put this out there again. A 10w30 SYNTHETIC will flow better when COLD than a 5w20 CONVENTIONAL. So why the heck would you want to put a 30 weight conventional in a vehile up north. Dude, I'm done with you. You haven't a clue. Bill Engvall said it best. "You can't fix stupid." P.S. You keep calling the "arm chair scientists" on BITOG experts, and have yet to provide any proof that they are experts. It's all hearsay.

Anybody can be anybody on the internet. For all you know I could be a 12 year old kid that spent a few hours on Wiki looking at Organic Chemistry. I am not going to simply assume that an entire family of oils (and 1 single sample at that) is one type or the other. I want to see the guys credentials, the empty bottle from the oil he scanned, the analysis that I could have a third party translate, and reference oil to compare it too. I.E. These two oils are Group III; notice the similarities ect... ect... ect... Believe it or not, I've made several user names on different boards and made false claims that everyone believed. Nobody checks facts anymore. What is to say that the gentleman in question isn't full of it? I'll quote myself. Are you going to be a lemming or will you think for yourself? It's your call You are preaching to the choir. BUT, group IV oils typically have higher HTHS ratings, better pour points, higher VI's, and better flash points. This is due to the uniformity of your typical PAO base stock. Even the best wax isomers and hydrocracked oils are still not even close to the same uniformity. Due to this, they typically do not achieve the same specifications as the PAO's. A thinner basestock can be utilized with VII's to increase the VI and Flash/Pour Points, but the HTHS rating usually goes to hell. It is all trade offs. Amsoil openly advertises that ALL of their motor oils, with the exception of the XL line, are group IV, PAO based oils. Hence my utilization of it as a reference point. PAO oils, in part to the afore mentioned reasons, are better in extreme applications like highly tuned engines and extended drain intervals. It depends on the application UOA 1 UOA 2 UOA 3 UOA 4 UOA 5 UOA 6 For your reading enjoyment, here are the 6 MOST RECENT MOBIL 1 USED OIL ANALYSIS from BITOG. They are all stellar results within margins of error and within universal averages for each vehicle. This is what I'm trying to tell you. The "high iron" Mobil 1 speak on BITOG is all garbage. It's unfounded. I do my own research and I am smarter for it. You've simply swallowed their stinking fecal matter whole and now you are barfing it all over your keyboard and onto this forum. Do us a favor.... Stop it... You aren't going to win on this one, because I know the truth. The truth may be hard to swallow sometimes, but it's still the truth. In science, you NEVER prove something in a controlled experiment, you simply fail to disprove it. After enough repetition, the scientific community may come to recognize it as a immutable fact, but it still may be broken at some point. NOBODY, has given me enough evidence to prove the ALL Mobil 1 products are Group III as the BITOG rumors go. Even if it was a true spectral analysis, by a true professional, I doubt one or two analysis can set the record straight. That particular oil was probably reformulated 10 times since then. For the record, as soon as I finish up out here in Georgia, I'm going back to College Station, Texas to finish up my degree in Petroleum Engineering. Texas A&M has the best PE program anywhere. Why do you think George Bush Senior put his library there? I'm not trying to sound arrogant, it's just that people on the internet are usually full crap. And you are a victim of that. Hopefully you have been liberated and you will be better for it. I'm just here to set the record straight.

Mobil 1 Extended Performance 5w20: cSt @ 40ºC: 47.4 cSt @ 100ºC: 8.9 Viscosity Index: 171 Flash Point,ºC: 235 Pour Point,ºC: -51 HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC: 2.7 AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 0W-20 Motor Oil (ASM) Viscosity @ 40°C: 49.1 Viscosity @ 100°C: 9.0 Viscosity Index: 165 Flash Point °C: 228 Pour Point °C:-54 HTHS Viscosity, mPa·s @ 150ºC: 2.8 So, lets see here. Amsoil is ALLEGEDLY a PAO Group IV based oil. If we look at the data sheet. We see that the Mobil 1 has the following stats that are superior to Amsoil: Viscosity Index Flash Point Pour Point The Amsoil barely beats it in HTHS by .1 which is a difference of roughly 3.5% So we have an oil that pours at lower temps, self combusts at higher temps, has a broader range of acceptable viscosity's and is almost exactly as shear worthy when compared to a product that is supposed to be Group IV PAO. That must be some really good Group III basestock, NOT!!! I've read the spectral analysis post and it's just a guy typing on the internet. I want to see the report. I want a PDF or something that I can take to a professional. Most of the Mobil 1 bashing like I said is unfounded. People on BITOG complain about "high iron" ect without considering the fact that many people are easily driving double or triple the mileage versus a conventional. People also don't consider that all vehicles are different and generate different amounts of wear metals due to the differences in utilized materials during manufacturing. People don't consider that towing, racing, excesive cold starts, and other factors that could turn up the wear. People also don't consider that with more people posting reports for Mobil 1 versus any of the other synthetics out there, you are going to see a few more bad reports. But was that the conditions while driving or was that the oil's fault? I can show you a perfectly good report for every bad report you show me. Likewise, I can show you a bad report for every good report on any other brand. Group think instead of standing back and forming your own opinions after research is exactly how the world goes to crap. Forums like BITOG have a general philosophy that is largely based on very little. Now, don't get me wrong, there is some good information, but it is amongst quite a bit of retarded dribble. All I can say, is that I've seen engines that were run exclusively on synthetic that look new or close to new after 150K-200K on the Odometer. The bearings look great, the cylinder walls perfect, and the cams like new. Some of these cars looked like that after using Mobil 1 exclusively. The fact of the matter is Mobil 1 is the current whipping boy, and Syntec was the previous victim. Another will come along soon enough. I didn't see any chaos when Penz decide to switch their Platinum Synthetic product from EAO to hydrocracked petroleum. It just wasn't their turn. It's not like one oil company is better than another. They ALL suck. Atleast they have lubrication readily available when they decide to bend you over a chair.

I did some looking at BobistheOilGuy and I am severely disappointed with how much propaganda is on there. Right now there is a general consensus among most of the members that Mobil 1 is no longer TRULY a Group IV synthetic. Unfortunately, they don't have a shred of evidence, it's all speculation, and there is quite a bit of evidence to the contrary. They also rely on Used Oil Analysis too much without knowing anything about them. There is always a certain margin of error in the tests, certain amounts of statistical variation, and no knowledge of what the standard deviation is or what would constitute a significant difference. It's all science and statistics, but very few of those guys know anything other than what they read on there. It is then that they give out advise based on other's opinions instead of cold hard facts. Many people recommend changing conventional oil every 3,000 miles. Many people recommend changing synthetic oil every 3,000 - 5,000 miles. Both are a waste of money and natural resources (for most people, but there are exceptions).

What if it only snows and sticks every 5 years. The worst we get here is freezing rain. Snow tires don't do much for that.

1 Quart of Synthetic in your normal 4-5 quart conventional oil change. 1-Synth and 3-Convention = 25% Synthetic 1-Synth and 4-Convention = 20% Synthetic

+1 Blends usually only incorporate 10-15 percent synthetic compounds. You could do better with buying one quart synthetic and mixing it with conventional. That would give you a 20-25 percent mix for less money.