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psylosyfer

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Posts posted by psylosyfer

    Value?

    in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX

    Posted

    Hi All,

    I know that it has been a LONG time since I have posted. But I had nothing new to offer and my old Loyale was always running great!

    I am thinking of buying a 94 outback. However (did not want to use "but") it is not a steal, or is it? There is a foot long crack along the windshield bottom, the head & fog lights do not work, and it is a ground issue, the front wheel, drive fuse blows, I suspect that may be due to mismatched tires, it is close to  200,000 miles, automatic trans, their are small dents and scratches on all surfaces, a large paint loser on the front driver side,  a structural "?" crack across the bottom crossing the tranny hump and exhaust indent, Is is wide enough to affect continuity from the rear to front, is a weld safe? Broken/missing R-hand mirror, missing interior mirror, tranny shifts late, It has not had proper maintenence.

    Runs good but "check engine light" always on. This is a big deal in California, Smog laws won't allow it to be registered untill that light is out! There are a few other problems less severe, oh yeah NO abs. The lady is asking $2800 but I think more like $1000 - $1500 is fair. As she is a friend, I want to be fair. So, any opinions on the value of this outback?  If I pay for labor, how much are we looking at? And Ballpark parts? Would be nice. Like I said I am trying to be fair with a friend, but cannot afford to overpay at this time. I'd appreciate any feedback my Suby loving brothers & Sisters!

    Thanks in advance!

    86' GL Rear Wheel bearings

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I know from learning the hard way that after you replace the rear bearing & seals, If you do not really tighten ( I think 150ftLbs spec) the wheel nut with the washer curved inward, You will lose your bearing and hub splines in a few hundred miles, I was lucky to get a new hub at junkyard for $15. After getting Real tight,(no torque wrench, I just heaved on the breaker bar) no problems, When the brake shoes won't clear the ridge in drum, you can pull a little rubber plug from the backing plate then insert a small flat blade and the adjuster will loosen, then hub will work past the ridge, with alot of wobbling & pulling! No hammer though, brake drum is cast, I broke one with an awful weak tap!

    cut out problem

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I hear that! My engine light has been on since I bought the Loyale 6-7 years ago, car runs great. When I did check the code, it told me to replace a sensor/solenoid, A $20 part that Subaru Got me for $107, light stayed out for 20 mins. now code is always different, so I ignore it, covered with black tape.

    No more $100 bills for nothing. Car still runs great!

    Tick of death and Air bubbles in the oil

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Hey Guy's I think I would look at a pix of a new pump on NAPA or some such website before plugging that hole! Be sure! If you decide to plug it, I had a boss who built up a main bearing journal with JB weld, and I still find it hard to believe but it held for years! gotta recommend it for inside engines.

    Whenever I've had oil loss and foam on dip stick, it's been heads or head gasket(s). Had a small amount of foam under oil cap last year, and had to top coolant every 1-2 months. This time I tried lazy, I bypassed my heater hoses, then ran around for a couple hours after pouring in block sealant, Oh yeah, I also had a rusty spark plug! All these problems have been gone for at least a year! sometimes luck goes your way! Sure beat pulling heads off.

    blower motor removal ?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Very easy, look up under the dash on the pass side, you'll see a circular metal item with (I think) 3 corners for 3 screws, wire unplugs, I got new one at O'Reilly's for around $30, works way better than the original.

    A little of topic but I did the same job on another make car that week, was a pure hellish nightmare! never again on any but my Sub!

    I would pay $500 to avoid that job for life! Sub, I'd do it for a beer! free if you were out of beer!

    dead dash clock

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    the solders on the circuit board get stress cracks that corrode and break connection. You will have to resolder the connections on the board. All you need is a bit of solder and a soldering gun, you can redo the soldering while in the car, or you can unsolder the 3 wires then do it in the house. You just have to remelt the solders, no skill required. Theres a write up somewhere, and I had the EXACT same problem as you.

     

    Exactly! cracked solder joints from temp variations, look close at back of ckt brd. Practice on junk or get help if you have not repaired boards before!!!!

    Greetings and a query

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Hey All!

    It's been a long time since my last post, so i'd like to start by saying hi to everyone! I hope you have all been well.

    I still have my old "91" Loyale and I have a question for the group. Has anyone any experience with an interior fan (blower) working tip top one day then dead the next? Well, believe it or not this is the only problem I have had with my "91" since before my last few posts! Aren't Subaru's great?

    I sure have missed this forum, but for quite a while, I could not post.

    It's good to able to again.

    CEL Shenanigans

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Thank's Gloyale;

    I drove to the store (3 miles) with BOTH green and white connected.

    After about 1 mile and change, The CEL came back on (solid). When I got to the market It read "code 35" again, (purge control solenoid as before).

    When restarting the light was out and the ECU light went back to 6 short pulses, Which seems to be "normal", About half way home the CEL came

    back on, Once again Three long, Five short, (purge control solenoid), My old friend!

    So I am convinced that I have a bad P.C.Solenoid.

    The shop that charged me $75 to recommend a new ECU, Probably ripped me off, Or so it would seem.

    Can you or anyone tell me where to find the infamous solenoid?

    Do you think changing it will be an end to this ?

    Thank's again Ray P.

    CEL Shenanigans

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Hi All!

    Hey everyone how it going?

    I have a question. I was getting a code for "purge control solenoid"(35)

    on my 91 Loyale. I took it to a shop and they told me that my ECU is bad.(charged $75)

    When I got the car back I had a INSTANT ON CEL, whereas before it took a while to come on. So I connected both the white and the green test connectors, To clear it and see if 35 came back up. Well with both test connectors plugged in I get no CEL at all! And the car runs fine (always has).

    Will it hurt to leave them connected? Does anyone believe that I have a bad ECU? And which color plug is which?

    Thanks guy's as I cannot pass smog until I sort this out.

    Ray P.

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