psylosyfer

I froze my EA82, Now have puffs of steam out of oil filler, coolant and oil mix, no problems at exhaust. head gasket, head, block? Has anyone a decent EA82 for sale? Just in case block is history?

Sorry Guy's!! I appreciate the info but I screwed up! It turns out it's an "96" NOT a "94" Sorry!! I don't see this really making a difference, But she does. Thanks Again!! Ray F. Potter

Hi All, I know that it has been a LONG time since I have posted. But I had nothing new to offer and my old Loyale was always running great! I am thinking of buying a 94 outback. However (did not want to use "but") it is not a steal, or is it? There is a foot long crack along the windshield bottom, the head & fog lights do not work, and it is a ground issue, the front wheel, drive fuse blows, I suspect that may be due to mismatched tires, it is close to 200,000 miles, automatic trans, their are small dents and scratches on all surfaces, a large paint loser on the front driver side, a structural "?" crack across the bottom crossing the tranny hump and exhaust indent, Is is wide enough to affect continuity from the rear to front, is a weld safe? Broken/missing R-hand mirror, missing interior mirror, tranny shifts late, It has not had proper maintenence. Runs good but "check engine light" always on. This is a big deal in California, Smog laws won't allow it to be registered untill that light is out! There are a few other problems less severe, oh yeah NO abs. The lady is asking $2800 but I think more like $1000 - $1500 is fair. As she is a friend, I want to be fair. So, any opinions on the value of this outback? If I pay for labor, how much are we looking at? And Ballpark parts? Would be nice. Like I said I am trying to be fair with a friend, but cannot afford to overpay at this time. I'd appreciate any feedback my Suby loving brothers & Sisters! Thanks in advance!

I rotated my tires today and noticed a fist sized hole in my muffler.

Mine makes no difference with the wire on or off.

Wish I had Known him better, but the way time passes, we'll see him again before long. Still it always hurts to loose a good friend!

I am really wanting a STi, you that have them, are they worth it? are they as satisfying as the old subaru's? how about reliability? I don't want to make a big money mistake, But it's a Subaru! I should have no regrets, right?

I know from learning the hard way that after you replace the rear bearing & seals, If you do not really tighten ( I think 150ftLbs spec) the wheel nut with the washer curved inward, You will lose your bearing and hub splines in a few hundred miles, I was lucky to get a new hub at junkyard for $15. After getting Real tight,(no torque wrench, I just heaved on the breaker bar) no problems, When the brake shoes won't clear the ridge in drum, you can pull a little rubber plug from the backing plate then insert a small flat blade and the adjuster will loosen, then hub will work past the ridge, with alot of wobbling & pulling! No hammer though, brake drum is cast, I broke one with an awful weak tap!

I hear that! My engine light has been on since I bought the Loyale 6-7 years ago, car runs great. When I did check the code, it told me to replace a sensor/solenoid, A $20 part that Subaru Got me for $107, light stayed out for 20 mins. now code is always different, so I ignore it, covered with black tape. No more $100 bills for nothing. Car still runs great!

Tried fuel filter(s)? Also look under hood at night for arcs. Good luck!

Hey Guy's I think I would look at a pix of a new pump on NAPA or some such website before plugging that hole! Be sure! If you decide to plug it, I had a boss who built up a main bearing journal with JB weld, and I still find it hard to believe but it held for years! gotta recommend it for inside engines. Whenever I've had oil loss and foam on dip stick, it's been heads or head gasket(s). Had a small amount of foam under oil cap last year, and had to top coolant every 1-2 months. This time I tried lazy, I bypassed my heater hoses, then ran around for a couple hours after pouring in block sealant, Oh yeah, I also had a rusty spark plug! All these problems have been gone for at least a year! sometimes luck goes your way! Sure beat pulling heads off.

Very easy, look up under the dash on the pass side, you'll see a circular metal item with (I think) 3 corners for 3 screws, wire unplugs, I got new one at O'Reilly's for around $30, works way better than the original. A little of topic but I did the same job on another make car that week, was a pure hellish nightmare! never again on any but my Sub! I would pay $500 to avoid that job for life! Sub, I'd do it for a beer! free if you were out of beer!

Exactly! cracked solder joints from temp variations, look close at back of ckt brd. Practice on junk or get help if you have not repaired boards before!!!!

I had similar problem hard to start, very bad when cold, after going round and round, turned out to be plug wires, I had a spark at the plugs but I guess it was to weak. New wires, fired right up.

My Loyale stopped dead, no spark, about a week after a tune-up, Ended up being a bad rotor! after a few days, I had spark at the coil lead but none to plugs.

Thanks for the info, I have no r12 left to speak of. compressor goes on then off within seconds. Will try 134a!

Has anyone converted to R34 with the kits at parts stores? If so, how did it go? Any problems/ tips? Thanks

Everyone is correct, you screw in the pistons, I have always used a channel lock opened enough to put the pincer tips in the two grooves, then just apply downward pressure while turning CW.

Hey All! It's been a long time since my last post, so i'd like to start by saying hi to everyone! I hope you have all been well. I still have my old "91" Loyale and I have a question for the group. Has anyone any experience with an interior fan (blower) working tip top one day then dead the next? Well, believe it or not this is the only problem I have had with my "91" since before my last few posts! Aren't Subaru's great? I sure have missed this forum, but for quite a while, I could not post. It's good to able to again.

I am going to try this rght away! Many thank's!!!! If the CEL stays off, Then I'm going to go back to the shop that advised changing the ECU for $1400. And demand a refund or I'll report them to the bureau of auto repair.

Thank's Gloyale; I drove to the store (3 miles) with BOTH green and white connected. After about 1 mile and change, The CEL came back on (solid). When I got to the market It read "code 35" again, (purge control solenoid as before). When restarting the light was out and the ECU light went back to 6 short pulses, Which seems to be "normal", About half way home the CEL came back on, Once again Three long, Five short, (purge control solenoid), My old friend! So I am convinced that I have a bad P.C.Solenoid. The shop that charged me $75 to recommend a new ECU, Probably ripped me off, Or so it would seem. Can you or anyone tell me where to find the infamous solenoid? Do you think changing it will be an end to this ? Thank's again Ray P.

Hi All! Hey everyone how it going? I have a question. I was getting a code for "purge control solenoid"(35) on my 91 Loyale. I took it to a shop and they told me that my ECU is bad.(charged $75) When I got the car back I had a INSTANT ON CEL, whereas before it took a while to come on. So I connected both the white and the green test connectors, To clear it and see if 35 came back up. Well with both test connectors plugged in I get no CEL at all! And the car runs fine (always has). Will it hurt to leave them connected? Does anyone believe that I have a bad ECU? And which color plug is which? Thanks guy's as I cannot pass smog until I sort this out. Ray P.

Well the car looked real good, Only damage I noticed was a bent radio antenna. The engine was overheated and now has no compression. I can get this car CHEAP!