psylosyfer

The center conductor goes to the antenna and the shield goes to ground, They both need a good connect to complete the circuit.

That's the one.

as soon as the key is turned on it starts cyclic on and off for about 5 second intervals, I think it does this till you turn off the key.

I still get a kick out of the amount of people here that think Subaru's are australian cars! Even comments like "at least it's not japanese" or I'll say Subaru is a good car, And someone replies "Of course they are good cars, the aussies make them good to use in the outback! Every since Paul Hogan was the spokesman, Alot of americans assume he must be working for an australian company. Besides it explains the AWD. Any way good to have you! Who knows maybe someday someone there will buy Fuji, Then it will all come true!!!!!! P.S. I really like your car.

I took my bad idler to a NAPA they pulled out the trusty calipers and had me a new bearing in minutes, I think it was either $12 or $9.

There is a post somewhere in here that explains the system, and shows you how to disengage 4wd by pulling a vacuum line off the actuator under the hood(better than nothing in a pinch) Does any one know the name of that post?

yeah cant beat $65 +30 core with warranty!!

Answered my own question a link at the bottom of superleds wesite "about leds" states right out that the resistor is built in to every LED they make! Excellent, Can't see them ever needing replacement unless the resistor opens.

Thought you may be interested to hear that in 25 years of working in electronics I have come across one and only one bad LED, And I suspect it had excess voltage applied to it. 10X longer life than bulbs is a world class understatement! Also far more efficient than incandescent bulbs. I would like to know if they come with a built in current limiting resistor In the plain bulk ones you buy they self destruct instantly without one at even half the voltage that they are rated for, bulbs only draw X amount at a certain voltage, But an LED is a forward biased diode, so with out limiting resistors in the circuit they try to draw infinite amps! So something gives in the first few milliseconds. I'm curious to know how the maker dealt with that issue?

Probalby has all the lube in the motor bearings long since dried out, take it apart and check, also check brushes for thickness while your at it if their almost gone replace them now to avoid pulling motor again sooner than youd like.

Never seen any for sale in California, I use valvoline racing oil or Castrol GTX and have excellent results

An old school engine builder ckued me on the parrifin content in pennzoil, And Iv'e seen first hand tearing down engines that ran pennzoil. It leaves a nasty black deposit on every surface, that's not good. So there's one brand that should stay on sale until something else is marked down. Engines i used valvoline or casrol GTX still look clean inside after 100,000 + miles.

Isn't it funny how after market hi perf. tranny part suppliers will tell you that "automatics only really wear during shift" so their kit is saving your tranny by making it bang into gears!!! This ploy works great they get to charge way over stock prices, and get it!!

Years ago titles of car ownership were printed on pink paper, It stuck So the age old practice of racing for the other guy's car will alway's be "wanna run me for pinks?"

Anyone knows after seeing road warrior or mad max, Aussie's put blown V8' in everything!!!

The double has advance and retard used on automatic trans cars only, Anti backfire or anti knock, Or so I was told a long time ago.

The double is for retard and advance for auto matic trans cars, Or so I was told long ago!

Nobody likes their carbs but I can say in the world of consumer electronics(tv,vcr etc.) they were the longest lasting, best built easiest to repair brand of all, Matsu************a next, and contrary to most laypersons opinionof sony they are about the worst.

On the question of cooling Roush includes twin cooling units (heater core type radiators that bolt under the car behind the radiator horizontally at the bottom of the main radiator. Used two (for fit) instead of one big enough to stand alone. a restrictor to reduce water from the engine to the blower pump,(something about not starving the blocks supply). Also included plumbing ,an electric water pump for the blower only, and various hardware, I think the cost was a bit over 4K, Why not copy them, Using a tranny cooler or two for cooling the blower, I'd run from the engine radiator through the tranny cooler then to the blower, To keep the mix as cool as possible (the denser the more power). Then to the block , and back to the radiator. Anyone have any thought's on how this would work (or not work)?

I'm clueless on trying to make a blown ea81, but I do know FI engines are commonly blown on (american V8's) higher flow fuel pump and larger injectors, Do the job. Other than that reprogramming the ecu, seem's to be a biggy to get good results, then they finish by improving the exhaust flow. Hot Rodders do this all the time. Last one I was around, went from 285 HP. to 500+ at wheel's on new dyno, If memory serves it was a 5.0 liter ford. Did not start at 500+ took a bit of trial and error on the engine management settings. I think the first run after all the hardware was on,was under 400HP, Done from a laptop on newer cars. How are you going to "tune" A subaru ECU? It was a 5.0 ford I remember now because the owner was telling us he bought a Roush setup as It is the only one that won't void ford warranty. Back in the day I put a blower on a 400 pontiac in my GTO, got the blower from a big rig diesel, (471 gmc) and put two 4bbl carbs on top (carter AFB's mech sec.), didn't know how too put boost before the carbs, after worked fine, looked good and left getting at the carbs easy. Never got to a dyno, but went fom mid 12's to just above 10's.

Alway's touch the two probes together right before using the meter, this verifies operation and resistance setting is selected, and usually this is when you 'zero" it ( turning a wheel or pressing a button until it reads zero while holding the probes together. also if you get no reading on one of the ohm's scale try the next higher up scale, the lowest will show an open when it see's a low (but not 0) resistance, i.e a ten ohm scale wont resond to 11 ohm's up,switch to 100 scale and all the sudden it reads. Too high a scale actually work but wont move needle enough to tell, If you put it on any ohm scale touch probes,you should get movement(a reading)Also if it works but wont zero battery is weak not yet dead. If nothing happens check the battery in the meter(analog meters only use the battery on ohm's digitals need it to work atall, if a good batt, and still won't read ,unplug one probe and touch the remaining one to the hole for the unplugged probe try this with both to test for open probes( quite common as they are cheaply made and get pulled/twisted alot. if still no reading(movement) meter is broke (at least resistance function) for six dollars worth of meter this is the point to round file it and get another( hopefully a little more than 6 bucks!) even a ten dollar meter blows away the 6 buck ones!

She's a beaut! There are half dozen gl's in the local wrecking yard here, If you can't find a light I could pull one for you. Don't wait too long. They have a bad habit of crushing them the day before I go to get something!

The fusible links showing 0 ohms are not blown (open), and they do perform better than a fuse in a hi current(amp) short. In my experience with EA82's, It's the spade lug connectors that comes up through the bottom of the plastic case, They corrode, Sometime the corrosion causes a resistance which creates heat, softening the plastic so the little spurs on the male connector shoves down out of the hole making it hard to push the female half (the part on the fus.link) on the male without pushing the male down and out, failing to connect (plug in).That is what sucks! As you found out they work fine until they fail 100% and the car don't go! It is a hassle to reach from under the plastic case feel for the one your plugging in and pushing it up while pushing the top connector down, Of course its even harder to connect because the corroded lugs don't want to fit as well as intended. All you can do is remove as much corrosion as possible. Then make sure they are plugged in good then a shot of WD or something to help slow the corrosion. Or replace the spade connectors. The bright side is it will never take long to figure out the problem. If it happens again after your hip to it, It should take all of a minute to get out and push the top and bottom together while wiggling a little to make a connection through the corroded plugs. When you replaced them you mananged to scrape through the corrosion enough to make connections, Could have done same thing with the old ones. A note for the fella from Honduras, Pulling the battery cable won't help unless you can get out and do it in under about five thousandths of a second! And you'll need to know ahead of time that your about to have a short! An awesome skill if you can!! fusible links are designed to blow around 5 to 9 millionths(microseconds) of a second, a fast acting fuse only has to work under 250 thousandths(milliseconds) of a second. Dealing with the speed of light, After the fact is always too late to save any parts from damage.

The other end stays open to allow venting, But originally it would be secured somewhere to keep immobile and not flop around where it shouldn't be, Usually they use a few clamps/ties, And just secure them down the side of the tranny or diff. Secure it anywhere it will be safe from heat/ moving parts and not kinked. Pointing generally downward (my guess is they point them down to help prevent stuff going in). Exact routing is not critical. It's only there to keep pressure equal in and out of the case (from temperature and or altitude changes) this could cause seals to leak/fail. And a hole without the hose would be vulnerable to contamination getting in, or plugging with grime.