psylosyfer

What has anyone heard about "40,000 mi." jap engines? I think I heard the story about them is B..S. But I know that they are or at least were available wherever they came from, For around $400 with 1 year warranty, Because the Shop where my brother worked installed many of them. (Subaru is the most common car in this county you see 3 or 4 to every 1 of other makes). I also remember they had more than one source, As sometimes the usual supplier might be out of stock on the needed model. The preffered distributor offered very resonable shipping as they put it on their truck with lots of other stuff to defray costs. (you had to wait on their schedule, up to two weeks) Farwest or Goldenwest distributing, something like that. Was the one they used most. I'm fairly sure they were somewhere around the S.F. bay area. Does anyone know about this, If so do you know if it still an option?

Should I be concerned? after reading this thread I'm wondering if I should be concerned about my fuel pump (they are spendy as I'm sure you know) My pump cycles on/off as soon as the key is on, Before start! I thought this was normal. isn't there a pressure regulator with a relief to send excess fuel back to the tank? Thus preventing overpressure damage. The car had a bad fuel pump when I bought it. Now I wonder if it failed because I have a problem with the associated circuitry, I hope I misunderstood the thread! Is My system NOT supposed to cycle before the engine is running? I'm sure the entire circuit is stock, But may have a problem if pump should not run with engine off. 91 loyale.

Toluene is equivalent to 114 octane non-additive gas, totally safe to mix with premium and burn, Learned this at UCB while getting my engineering degree (not chemical engineering) but I believe the professor who told us.

FYI a "hall sensor" as used in nipdens or hitachi distributers, really is immune to EMP it is actually a tiny leaf switch with contacts made of a magnetically sensitive material (probably any alloy containing enough steel) these contacts are sealed in a case axially (like two wires end to end with their ends overlapping) this creates a closed circuit, when the magnetic "ring" on the dist. shaft rotates close enough it "pulls" one lead away from the other creating an "open"circuit. As the actuator "magnet ring" moves on, the switch snaps back to its closed condition. Since the leads are sealed and barely flex. They are close to immortal as long as a massive over amperage is never passed through (enough to melt the contact). For some application's an optical sensor is used for basically the same type function. But in an environment where dirt could build up and block the passage of light, The hall sensor is a better choice. Just thought someone might be interested, I don't know much! But I do know my profession (retired electrical engineer). Hope it's of some use. P.S. relays are electromechanical hence immune to EMP.

FYI a "hall sensor" as used in nipdens or hitachi distributers, really is immune to EMP it is actually a tiny leaf switch with contacts made of a magnetically sensitive material (probably any alloy containing enough steel) these contacts are sealed in a case axially (like two wires end to end with their ends overlapping) this creates a closed circuit, when the magnetic "ring" on the dist. shaft rotates close enough it "pulls" one lead away from the other creating an "open" circuit. As the actuator "magnet ring" moves on the switch snaps back to its closed condition. This on/off is the signal for the electronic control module to spark when needed (similar to points of old) Since the leads are sealed and barely flex,They are close to immortal as long as a massive over amperage is never passed through (enough to melt the contact). For some application's an optical sensor is used for basically the same type function. But in an environment where dirt could build up and block the passage of light, The hall sensor is a better choice. Just thought someone might be interested, I don't know much! But I do know my profession (retired electrical engineer). Hope it's of some use. The electronic ignition control unit is solid state and in theory sensitive to EMP, However, It is of an old simple design (basically a few transistors) and would take one enormous EMP to cause damage. P.S. the relays are electromechanical hence immune to EMP.

Just for the hell of it maybe make sure the distributer advance is not sticking, A long shot. but until it's solved, couldn't hurt to check. By popping do you mean backfiring through the intake, or some other type of popping? Timing Belt(s) will definately cause similar symptoms is either is off a couple teeth. Knew a guy who about went nut's when his Xt barely ran, backfired, no power , when it wasn't yet stalled again. (stalled every 3 or 4 minutes) He convinced himself that if put the belts on wrong it could not even start. So flat refused to consider rechecking ( I realize you did not just change belts but a few teeth slipped is the same as installng a few teeth off) He beat his head against a wall for about two weeks before getting passed his stubborn streak, Finally he found that the Pass. side cam turned a little without him noticing it when installing the belt. But I remember how it ran , sure sounds similar to yours.

yeah it would lose compression if it no longer sealed.

Might sound silly but I used a nissan cap with an 1/8" hole drilled right through the center of the 2 S's (where it said Nissan). On my wagon the whole time I drove it (about 7-8 years) never caused a problem. Guy I knew at a gas station donated the cap out of lost & found. had to drill the hole cause you could hear the gas tank crinkle when running before drilling. Kind of rinky dink but free is free!

Another temp fix that really sucks is to get those "spring extenders" or whatever their called. that part stores sell for wedgeing into the old springs, just a chunk of metal with grooves to help stay in place. Probably cheap, not much to them.

Is it a carburated car?

Don't know but they are used alot in ultralight aircraft.

Did you catch the thread for you about a wagon for $600 ?

NOS idea was ALSO meant as a joke! installing a 283 chevy v8 would probably be as practical

My girlfriend bought beveled ceramic brake pads for her Blazer (three times the price of raymac composite) I figured they saw her coming! But Now I have to say. They are SO much of an improvement that they are worth every cent! The vehicle had fade from the start, Its gone, The car stops far shorter but does it with what feels like less effort than the old brakes took to stop over more distance, And they are dead silent (so far) without the use of any brake quiet chemicals or devices.Did I mention They also came with a "limited" lifetime warranty? P.S> the $10,000 each carbon fiber secret composite brake disks that team corvette used at Le Mans also glowed bright red the whole race until they all failed! They were the favorite (having a multimillion dollar budget) before the brake failure.

All true, But he did say his concern was cost, not labor. If he's willing to do the work. Will he have all he needs from the other car to make it work without having to buy anything?

If you have damaged CV boots, Then yes water and mud (dirt) will definately cause failure! Shouldn't be an issue if the boots are sound, As their designed to keep separate the outside environment, from the environment of clean lubricant neccasary for the joint to function throughout it's expected service life. Bad boots not only let in contaminates, But also lets out most of the grease, It's been my experience that the noises, especially turning or under load i.e.(up hill) start almost as soon as the boot fails. We have a well trusted local shop that claims you can clean repack and replace the boot if you do it before the axle starts to make noise in a straight line. And be OK. I don't know if I believe this theory. But who knows? They obviously wouldn't stand by this if all their customers came back with axles they paid to repair, That still had problems. Seems risky to me though. If money is an issue, replacing the boot only (hopefully soon enough) may be the only choice.

Whoops did not catch that its an EJ22 Sorry!

To be sure, I went out and looked. The 87 GL has height adjustments on the bottom of the spring, It is the bottom spring holder, A notched ramp that rests on a pin on the shock/spring assy. by "spinning" it the notches on the ramp sit higher or lower on the pin this increases or decreases the tension on the coil. The 91 loyale does NOT have this adjuster, It looks like they replaced the notched ramp with a fixed "cup" that the spring rests in. Both my GL's had this adjuster. If all 87's do not, Then it must have been part of some option package or somesuch thing. Anyway it would be really unnoticable if you weren't looking for it, Kinda hid behind the wheel, covered with dirt. But easy to spot with tire and rim off car. Hope you have them, Since both mine had it, I assumed they all came that way. Possibly not.

My 87 GL wagon's 4wd 5 spd. had rear spring adjusters, Factory stock. It's just a cylindrical "tube" on the coil spring itself with 4 or 5 notches of "softer/stiffer" they look just like the older rear motorcycle springs/shocks setup that had the notched ramp you would "turn the ramp to raise or lower the notches". My GL's both had them and both were set second from lowest(softest) setting, I am assuming that to be the factory setting. Now I'm curious enough to go look at my 91 loyale to see if it has adjusters!

Yeah I like my Loyale, But I wish they would have left in the niceties that my OLDER GL's had stock. Like speakers in all 4 doors, not 2 (and the 2 are not as good quality or as big as the 4 were), the dual map light near the mirror, a second dome light in the cargo area,the little foot rest for drivers left foot, (my carpet in the loyale is getting damaged for lack of that foot rest) variable int. wipers instead of one speed of intermittent wipe, Higher quality door panel materials, etc. I guess you could say subaru did a good job of lowering their cost from GL to loyale.

Every considered, It sounds like your justy needs ALOT less than $900 for repairs.

My pre Vortec "87" blazer has good clearance for minor maintenence/repair. Still, it's an S/10 chassis, And I will never be convinced that the S/10 is anything like a REAL chevy. Psylosyfer

Your both in Washington. Might be do able, In Northern Ca. (where I live) Junkyard gets $50 for a hood, $75 for door, Quite possibly even the correct color! If you bought both they might throw in the exhaust, Chances are it would have been replace/repaired by now. Junk cars generally have some newer parts (repairs before the owner gave up) Any way. Good Luck to you both!

At least with the blazer, You won't have to sweat timing belts!!!

I admit I have not heard nasty stories about the manual tranny only the auto. Our's is also a two door and the back windows were desinged to be fixed (not go down). What I meant to say.I did not explain it well, In a subaru with either front window open a little or all the way, the wind blows you right in the face. Especially at higher speeds, But when you crack the rear window(3-4") on the side side of the open front glass, The wind blows past your head instead of on it.(I doubt the engineers planned it, But for me It is actually one of the reasons I like subarus! And High on the list of reasons we drive it Instead of the blazer. I may sound minor but if you drive any distance in summer, It quickly becomes a fairly big deal! Some people are ok running AC from spring to fall. I don't care for it much, And use it only when I have to. I'm sure your mom's giving you a good buy on the Blazer. But don't be suprised If you find yourself longing for a subaru! Who knows? Maybe you can run an ad and find someone who'll trade a nice loyale for the blazer!