rward

Well, it turns out that the noise was actually a bad wheel bearing on the right side, eventhough it was only 2 weeks old. The machine shop pressed them in wrong on both sides - cost me an extra $200 because they don't know what they're doing. I remember now why I do things myself. hooziewhatsit and CHIM - What a coincidence that the people who replied were from all over the globe, but 1 guy is from my town and 1 from just up the road. Just so you guys know I went to Basin Machine Shop - they're the only shop in K Falls open on Sat., which the only reason I went there (how hard can it be I thought). Anyway, I've heard nothing but bad things about them since then. Spread the word. From what I've heard, I got off lucky. Karl's and Harley's are both good shops.

The suspension makes sense because it doesn't make the noise when it's on jack stands, but I sure can't find anything. Any ideas what to look for other than making sure everything is tight? It seems about the same on gravel/dirt roads. The jump idea sounds pretty good - Dukes of Hazard style - Yeeha!

Actually, I can't hear it when I swerve to the left - more like a drunk driver going down the highway than making an actual left turn. That makes me think the sound is coming from the left side (the sound goes away when there is less weight on the left side). I finally got to the point where I was standing on my breaker bar - they're plenty tight.

Stock steel wheels. I've had the tires rotated since it started making the noise and nothing has changed.

I don't think it's a warped rotor because the brake petal doesn't pulse even when I stomp on the brakes and the sound is there even when I'm stepping on the brakes.

I can feel it a little bit in the steering wheel, but also some in the pedals. Not enough to say that what's wrong is in the steering somewhere, but enough that it could be. Confusing, I know... Another point of clarification - I can't hear it when I drive by a wall with either window down. I even tried listening around the floorboards with a plastic tube to my ear while my wife drove the car and I couldn't pin it down to any one spot. It seems to be inboard, but can't even say that for sure.

'91 Loyale 4x4 wagon, 5 sp. Here's one I can't figure out myself. I have a noise coming from the front end that is consistent with wheel speed - I hear it every time the wheel rotates whether giving it gas or braking, turning or straight, clutch in or out, in or out of 4WD, etc. The only exception is if I'm cruising down the highway and I swerve to the left, the sound goes away, but comes right back when I straighten out or turn to the right. If you've ever had a tire tread separate, that's what it sounds like to me - a methodic thump sound (I already tried the tires, but no joy). A couple of weeks before it started making the noise, I tore into both sides of the front end and replaced the wheel bearings and seals, tie rod ends, ball joints, strut assemblies, and brake pads. Since it started making the noise I replaced both front drive axles, the left steering knuckle (used), the left wheel bearings/seals, and the right ball joint. None of that made the least bit of difference. I didn't hear when I had it up on jack stands, even when the speedo showed 35 mph. I double checked that everything was torqued down, including the axle nuts and everything was in order. I need help - it's been making the noise for about 10 months. It seems to be a little worse now than when it first started, but I can't find the stupid thing. Any thoughts? Thanks much.

Thanks for the reply. No heavy offroading or anything - just driving to work and back, 70 miles/day. Are the new GCK from Autozone for $90 considered heavy duty? Thanks

Anyone have any experience with these, good or bad? Schuck's has them for $65 and the guy on the phone said they have a lifetime warranty. Before you chastise me, I searched the message board and couldn't find anything on this brand. I may get new from Autozone, but I'll have to have them shipped, which also means shipping them back when and if they go bad. Any thoughts? http://www.cardone.com/English/Club/Products/DRIVETRAIN/default.asp Thanks

Do axles (rebuilt or new) come with the DO joint too? What about the boots? Are these things generally ready to be put right in or do you need to get the boots, etc. and put them on first?

Thanks for the replies. It sounds like a bad DOJ from what people have said, although there's no vibration or harsh sound, just a whump sound every time the wheel rotates. It's not a tire, brake rotor, or CVJ because the sound comes from the inboard side. Any chance it could be a bad driveshaft bearing? Also, do I need to replace the whole axle assemblies, or can I just rebuild the DOJ's? (The axle assemblies were replaced approx. 70k miles ago). Do axle assemblies come with the DOJ? Lastly, can you guys recommend a good place to order them from? Thanks much.

'91 Loyale 4x4 wagon, 5 sp. Yet another front end noise for folks to contemplate. The noise is a whump sound that increases as wheel rotation increases and can only be heard from about 25-30 mph on up. If you've ever had a tire tread separate, that's what it sounds like. My wife drove the car while I had my head to the passenger's side floor and it's defenitely coming from either the transaxle or inside CV joint, but it's not a click sound like descriptions in other postings I read. It's always there too - accelerating, breaking, clutch in or out, turning or straight, but I didn't hear when I had it up on jack stands, even when the speedo showed 35 mph. A few weeks ago I tore into both sides of the front end and replaced the wheel bearings and seals, tie rod ends, ball joints, strut assemblies, and brake pads. I also replaced all CV boots and repacked the CV joints. The sound appeared a couple of weeks after all of this. Is it possible that I pushed an almost worn inner CV joint over the edge? By the way, I triple checked the axle nuts and they're good and tight. Any thoughts? Thanks much.

The problem here is not spongy brakes (although I have that too), which indicates that air is trapped in the system, but air bleeding out of the system. No matter how much I bleed the system, AIR COMES OUT at all four wheels when bleeding. I'll bleed each wheel (diagonally) until no air comes out, then start over and get air again and again and again. Does anyone know how to test for air leaks at the master cylinder? Thanks

Ok, here's the deal. I bled all four wheels diagonally and got air at all four wheels, twice. I haven't bled the master cylinder yet because the bolts on the brake lines are a major PITA to get loose and, more importantly, the more I work on this, the more convinved I am that air is getting in. The thing that has me thinking this is that I have bled enough air out of the system over the last three days to fill the entire system at least once, no kidding, not to mention the quart of fluid I have put through it. I can't imagine that much air could be trapped in there. My understanding of hydraulic systems is that air can get trapped and compromise the system, but I have a continuous supply of air bleeding out. At some point the air has to stop coming out if air is not getting in, even if an air pocket remains trapped in the system. So, I'm thinking that maybe it's just a strange coincidence and the master cylinder has a leak. Any thoughts or, better yet, does anyone know how to test this? I'm curious to know what other people think. NV Zeno - Did you have continuous air bleeding out of the system before you bled the master cylinder? Thanks all.

I replaced the banjo bolt washers and did the gravity feed on all four wheels (for at least 1/2 hour) as suggested by Snowman. Still no joy. I'm still getting bubbles at both front calipers. It seems to me that air must be getting into the system. I've run about 3 pints of fluid through the system (mostly the front) so far. Even if air got in through the master cylinder initially, I shouldn't still be seeing that many bubbles should I? Can anyone verify that the washers on the banjo bolt go one on either side of the brake line donut? I just want to make sure the thing is put together right. Also, one of my shop manuals (but not the other one) says that the engine must be running when bleeding or the brake booster WILL be damaged. I went ahead and ran the motor when bleeding, but I've never heard of this. Has anyone else? Anyway, I'll let it sit overnight and see if any leaks are visible by morning.

'91 Loyale 4x4 wagon I just did a bunch of front-end work that required removing the brake calipers. After hooking everything back up, I keep getting air in the brake system when I bleed the front brakes. I bleed them until there's no air, then come back a couple of minutes later and there's air again. It seems to me air is getting in at the calipers. The only things I can think of are: 1) I didn't replace the sealing washers on the banjo bolts, as suggested by the shop manual; 2) There are two sealing washers per banjo bolt. I put one on either side of the banjo bolt assuming that's how it was before, but I don't remember for sure. Maybe one of these is allowing air to get in? I'm getting air at both calipers so I'm doubtful that the sealing washers are bad. I'd think that at least one of them would seal up. Any thoughts out there? Thanks in advance.

Thanks guys - you've been a tremendous help.

Cracked heads! I don't know if that old of EA82's had chronic problems, but my '91 SPFI EA82 has a cracked head, which I understand is not uncommon. Pull the plugs after it's been good and hot and look for steam coming from the cylinders. Check the plug ends to see if they're too clean. Smell the exhaust - burning coolant will smell sweet. These symptoms could also indicate a leaking intake manifold gasket. Oil in the coolant is a telltale sign of a cracked head or leaking head gasket.

'91 Loyale 4x4 wagon OK, I screwed up. To make a long story short, I lost my markings when I took off the old tie rod ends and now I'm not sure how far to screw on the new ones. Any advice? I plan on having the alignment done when I'm finished, but I'm assuming that pulling tie rods apart and scewing them in or out isn't part of that process. Thanks in advance. Rick