John-Charleston

Ebay sellers don't seem to all think the same way on this but I think you're right. I think it's most likely that the only thing that's changed is the button color. I'll probably get one from ebay today. Thanks. I haven't figured out how to lock the hatch yet. My key doesn't do it and if I use the on-the-door switch to lock all the doors it will set off the alarm when I use the key to unlock. So far, I've been locking all the doors by hand and leaving the hatch unlocked....

Not sure if it's working for you but that attachment isn't opening for me. Here's the text I was trying to refer to: ALPINE SYSTEM, new starting in 1999, used through 2004 information is always subject to change and correction Used on: Legacy, Outback all models 1999-2004 Forester 2001-2004 Impreza 2002-2004 1999 Legacy only: Passive arming of the optional 1999 alarm system. The dealer could program the alarm to arm automatically whether the doors are locked or not. In this mode the doors must be manually locked or using the power lock button or the remote. In Passive Mode the system will automatically activate in one minute but will not lock the doors. it will arm the alarm even if the doors are not locked. Lock the doors using the power lock switch with the door open. If you are using the remote to lock the doors, there would be no reason to set Passive Mode because locking with the remote would arm the alarm anyway so I'm not sure why this function exists.... To open the doors use the remote or the key, but then the alarm will go off and you'll need To set Passive Mode: Open driver's door and remove the plastic step sill that curves up toward the front. Connect the single-pole white connectors. Subaru remote keyless entry and alarmSubaru keyless & alarm remotethe plain gray buttons were used 99-01, colored buttons for 2002-04

Thanks for the quick reply! This I find on that cars101. I can't tell if that means I need the grey buttons only or if both colors will work. In other words, did they change more than the button colors for the different years? I guess if you have an '00 and colored buttons work for you it's probably universal...

My key fob remote is at the bottom of a river. I need to replace it but I've run into some confusion as to which fob will definitely work with my 2000 OB. I was told that "the number has to match" but I'm not sure if it's the fcc # or the part # that's important. There's a number of them on Ebay, some with two grey buttons like mine had and some with orange and blue buttons that are listed as good for '99 thru '04 Subi's. Part numbers and fcc numbers seem to mix and match on ebay for the two different styles. Since I no longer have my original fob with fcc/part numbers, how do I know which one I need? Thanks, John

Yeah, I gathered from what I read that the Ecstas were particularly bad in the snow and rain. The Solus seem to be more well liked on that score. I don't race around a whole lot but probably drive faster than average and I don't want tires that can't handle rain.

2000 Outback Wagon Ltd I've looked thru the tire threads here and can't find much said about michelins. Costco has the Michelin Primacy MXV4 for about $150 more per set than a local tire place wants for Kumho Solus kh16's. The Kumhos are talked about here with mixed reviews with the negatives mainly being about handling in snow. I dont' see much snow here in Charleston SC so that's not much of a concern (though I occasionally find myself in Asheville). I'm want quiet tires; hate road noise. Anyone with the Michelin experience? Thanks, John

Well they did the things I'd mentioned earlier and I did the trans fluid change (filter change and 3x fluid change) and I'll be changing the diff fluids soon. One worry is that when I got the car back I noticed a "clunk" sound when I started it up most times but not all. I took it back and standing there with the head mechanic we determined it was an engine mount bolt that was not tightened down all the way. He also noticed that the mechanic who worked on the car had installed a bracket backwards (the bracket that supports what I want to call the "air box") The clunk sound disappeared when he tightened the loose engine mount bolt but I'm wondering what else the original mechanic might have screwed up. I wasn't left with a feeling of security..... On to reading tire threads next. John

Thanks, While I don't understand everything discussed in that thread, I get the idea that the Wix 51365 is an acceptable choice. I'll probably get to this job tomorrow. John

I owe a particular thanks to porcupine73 for pointing out that my hg's might be under warranty because they were indeed for another 6 months. I had had the car checked out and they did find one small leak but enough to replace the hg's. So Jeffx, did the dealer pay for all this work? John

Having gotten top notch advice from you guys on the head gasket/fluid change questions I had earlier: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81489 I'm finally getting around to changing out the trans fluid. I read many threads on the subject and I went out and bought one of the recommended screw on filters; the Wix 51365. Only later I noticed that it says "oil filter" on the box. Well I'd read in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81632&highlight=wix+filter that I shouldn't use an oil filter on the trans but only a specific trans fluid filter. Can I get clarification on this? Is this filter OK? Am I doing too much reading? Also, the local advance auto parts had only their own brand of ATF for $8/gal or Castrol brand for $15/gal. Think the store brand is OK? I figure I'll need about 6 gal to do a 3x flush. Thanks, John

Damn. I just dropped off the OB for the hg change. I'm getting the timing belt done for an extra $85 and I talked them into changing the plugs for an extra $25 but then he brought up the cam seals. Insists that they will be leaking by 100K and that I should do them too for another $100. I got the distinct impression they were selling me something I didn't need but my gf is there waiting to give me a ride home and I just don't know so I agreed, OK, go ahead. Did I just get suckered into spending $100 for something I didnt' need?

I think the mechanic said I could buy the Subaru plugs for $12. I'll get more info and press them on how much if they do them while the engine is out. Plug wires sound like a good idea too. The engine didn't overheat and I'd had the oil changed when I bought the car. We did notice that the new oil filter was leaking though. Grossgary, if by "additive campaign" you mean the extended warranty Subaru offered when owners took the car in to have the magic stuff added to the radiator....well that's why this is still under warranty. The previous owner had had that done. Warranty period ends in about 6 months though. That was one reason I wanted to have it checked out. Got lucky.

Another thought... When I was in the waiting room, I talked with two others waiting there. They both had very high opinions of the Subaru dealership we were at. Maybe their work is good but prices high? The place has recently changed ownership but I understand that the employees are all still the same.

Yeah, their $110 for plugs was I guess the rate if that's all they were going to do. (ie, the engine wouldn't be out) But he didn't make any better offers and even though when it comes to mechanics, I'm a carpenter; I think I could manage changing spark plugs for $110. I'll probably do the trans myself too. Fluid/filter change and I guess the diffs as well. I really need to find time to read the fluid change threads but I won't do it til after they do the hg's anyway. So, no need for special Subaru fluids?