John-Charleston

Ebay sellers don't seem to all think the same way on this but I think you're right. I think it's most likely that the only thing that's changed is the button color. I'll probably get one from ebay today. Thanks. I haven't figured out how to lock the hatch yet. My key doesn't do it and if I use the on-the-door switch to lock all the doors it will set off the alarm when I use the key to unlock. So far, I've been locking all the doors by hand and leaving the hatch unlocked....

Not sure if it's working for you but that attachment isn't opening for me. Here's the text I was trying to refer to: ALPINE SYSTEM, new starting in 1999, used through 2004 information is always subject to change and correction Used on: Legacy, Outback all models 1999-2004 Forester 2001-2004 Impreza 2002-2004 1999 Legacy only: Passive arming of the optional 1999 alarm system. The dealer could program the alarm to arm automatically whether the doors are locked or not. In this mode the doors must be manually locked or using the power lock button or the remote. In Passive Mode the system will automatically activate in one minute but will not lock the doors. it will arm the alarm even if the doors are not locked. Lock the doors using the power lock switch with the door open. If you are using the remote to lock the doors, there would be no reason to set Passive Mode because locking with the remote would arm the alarm anyway so I'm not sure why this function exists.... To open the doors use the remote or the key, but then the alarm will go off and you'll need To set Passive Mode: Open driver's door and remove the plastic step sill that curves up toward the front. Connect the single-pole white connectors. Subaru remote keyless entry and alarmSubaru keyless & alarm remotethe plain gray buttons were used 99-01, colored buttons for 2002-04

Thanks for the quick reply! This I find on that cars101. I can't tell if that means I need the grey buttons only or if both colors will work. In other words, did they change more than the button colors for the different years? I guess if you have an '00 and colored buttons work for you it's probably universal...

My key fob remote is at the bottom of a river. I need to replace it but I've run into some confusion as to which fob will definitely work with my 2000 OB. I was told that "the number has to match" but I'm not sure if it's the fcc # or the part # that's important. There's a number of them on Ebay, some with two grey buttons like mine had and some with orange and blue buttons that are listed as good for '99 thru '04 Subi's. Part numbers and fcc numbers seem to mix and match on ebay for the two different styles. Since I no longer have my original fob with fcc/part numbers, how do I know which one I need? Thanks, John

Yeah, I gathered from what I read that the Ecstas were particularly bad in the snow and rain. The Solus seem to be more well liked on that score. I don't race around a whole lot but probably drive faster than average and I don't want tires that can't handle rain.

2000 Outback Wagon Ltd I've looked thru the tire threads here and can't find much said about michelins. Costco has the Michelin Primacy MXV4 for about $150 more per set than a local tire place wants for Kumho Solus kh16's. The Kumhos are talked about here with mixed reviews with the negatives mainly being about handling in snow. I dont' see much snow here in Charleston SC so that's not much of a concern (though I occasionally find myself in Asheville). I'm want quiet tires; hate road noise. Anyone with the Michelin experience? Thanks, John

Well they did the things I'd mentioned earlier and I did the trans fluid change (filter change and 3x fluid change) and I'll be changing the diff fluids soon. One worry is that when I got the car back I noticed a "clunk" sound when I started it up most times but not all. I took it back and standing there with the head mechanic we determined it was an engine mount bolt that was not tightened down all the way. He also noticed that the mechanic who worked on the car had installed a bracket backwards (the bracket that supports what I want to call the "air box") The clunk sound disappeared when he tightened the loose engine mount bolt but I'm wondering what else the original mechanic might have screwed up. I wasn't left with a feeling of security..... On to reading tire threads next. John

Thanks, While I don't understand everything discussed in that thread, I get the idea that the Wix 51365 is an acceptable choice. I'll probably get to this job tomorrow. John

I owe a particular thanks to porcupine73 for pointing out that my hg's might be under warranty because they were indeed for another 6 months. I had had the car checked out and they did find one small leak but enough to replace the hg's. So Jeffx, did the dealer pay for all this work? John

Having gotten top notch advice from you guys on the head gasket/fluid change questions I had earlier: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81489 I'm finally getting around to changing out the trans fluid. I read many threads on the subject and I went out and bought one of the recommended screw on filters; the Wix 51365. Only later I noticed that it says "oil filter" on the box. Well I'd read in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=81632&highlight=wix+filter that I shouldn't use an oil filter on the trans but only a specific trans fluid filter. Can I get clarification on this? Is this filter OK? Am I doing too much reading? Also, the local advance auto parts had only their own brand of ATF for $8/gal or Castrol brand for $15/gal. Think the store brand is OK? I figure I'll need about 6 gal to do a 3x flush. Thanks, John

Damn. I just dropped off the OB for the hg change. I'm getting the timing belt done for an extra $85 and I talked them into changing the plugs for an extra $25 but then he brought up the cam seals. Insists that they will be leaking by 100K and that I should do them too for another $100. I got the distinct impression they were selling me something I didn't need but my gf is there waiting to give me a ride home and I just don't know so I agreed, OK, go ahead. Did I just get suckered into spending $100 for something I didnt' need?

I think the mechanic said I could buy the Subaru plugs for $12. I'll get more info and press them on how much if they do them while the engine is out. Plug wires sound like a good idea too. The engine didn't overheat and I'd had the oil changed when I bought the car. We did notice that the new oil filter was leaking though. Grossgary, if by "additive campaign" you mean the extended warranty Subaru offered when owners took the car in to have the magic stuff added to the radiator....well that's why this is still under warranty. The previous owner had had that done. Warranty period ends in about 6 months though. That was one reason I wanted to have it checked out. Got lucky.

Another thought... When I was in the waiting room, I talked with two others waiting there. They both had very high opinions of the Subaru dealership we were at. Maybe their work is good but prices high? The place has recently changed ownership but I understand that the employees are all still the same.

Yeah, their $110 for plugs was I guess the rate if that's all they were going to do. (ie, the engine wouldn't be out) But he didn't make any better offers and even though when it comes to mechanics, I'm a carpenter; I think I could manage changing spark plugs for $110. I'll probably do the trans myself too. Fluid/filter change and I guess the diffs as well. I really need to find time to read the fluid change threads but I won't do it til after they do the hg's anyway. So, no need for special Subaru fluids?

Well I'm glad I'm not the only one who thinks in that paraniod way...I'd already decided to get the hg's done without letting them know I'll look elsewhere for the rest of the work. I will buy 4 spark plugs before I go though. They wanted $110 to replace them. Would it be a bad idea to just go to a transmission place to get the trans serviced? Also, the car's needing rear brakes. Does it matter if I get Subaru pads or not? In fact that's a question about any replacement fluids/parts....is it important to use Subaru parts? I gather it is on the radiator fluid, but what about other fluids? Thanks for all the help. I'll think of you all while my knuckles are bleeding. :-) John

Well I just got off the phone with the mechanic and I did have it right....Trans flush, both diffs, brake fluid and ps fluid. Even though the oil and rad fluid would be changed out with the hg job; "the price would still be $495, or maybe even a little bit more because the $495 package was just for a trans drain and not a flush" So now I'm hearing at least $495 even though the oil and rad aren't in there... I think the only things I couldn't do myself would be "flushing" the trans and the ps as opposed to just a fluid change. $180 for the trans flush.... Still havent' read the archives on fluid changes but I have to get working right now so later. Thanks, John

Um er, (I'd heard they should be done in the reverse order) Thanks for the replies here. In spite of the fact that I'm a carpenter not a mechanic and I always end up with bleeding knuckles when I work on a car, I'll likely do the fluid changes myself. Now I haven't done a search on fluid changes yet but one thing included in the mechanic's pitch was the fact that they wouldn't just change the trans fluid but would flush the trans out with something that would clean it up. I guess I could just use Dawn. (joke) Is it normal to change out the brake fluid? I've never heard of doing that unless brakes were being bled. Same with power steering fluid; does it need to be changed? I'm thinking about it and trying to remember if he was including changing spark plugs in the $495 price. I'd mentioned to him that my mileage is only around 22 around town and not so great on the highway either and he was saying it should be much better & might have talked spark plugs...I have to call him today. As for the blinker fluid...well I have to admit I did a search on that trying to figure out wtf you were talking about. I thought maybe you were a Brit and it was some colloquial reference to engine oil. Don't toy with me here, I might take the wrong thing seriously!

I bought a used 2000 OB wagon a few months ago and today had an opportunity to have the local Dealership look it over for an assessment. They found a small leak happening in the head gaskets which is almost a relief since it's still under a Subaru warranty and they'll replace the gaskets for me. The car has 86k on it at this point so the mechanic suggested I should change out the timing belt which would just cost me $85 to do in conjunction with the hg's. That seemed logical to me and I'll go for that. But then he said it looked like the transmission looked like it had never been serviced nor the differential fluids and suggested a $495 package that would include the Transmission being "flushed", differential fluids changed, Oil changed and Radiator flushed. (I think that was all of it but maybe brake fluids?). It's possible that price might be reduced if I have it all done in conjunction with the hg's since they'd have to change out the radiator fluid anyway but I'm not sure. My question is, is it reasonable that this work should be done and is that a reasonable price? Is there anything else I should be thinking about while the hg's are being done? I consider it a lucky break that the hg leak showed up while still under warranty and I'm certainly not complaining. Still, my work has been slow and I'm not exactly flush right now so I'm not wanting to waste money on unessentials. Thanks, John

I just bought a 2000 OB via Ebay. It came from Syracuse NY and while the body looks fine my mechanic told me today that there's a fair amount of rust on the undercarriage but that it's pretty much all surface rust. Is it logical/feasible to undercoat or otherwise treat this at this point? The car is now living in Charleston SC and has 82K on it. Seems in fine shape otherwise. Advice on how to treat this would be appreciated even if it's "do nothing". Thanks, John

Yes, that's some of the "other info" I was referring to. That site does seem really nice I just wasn't sure I could trust the info since Carfax disagreed. I also understood the <1999/internal >2000/external leak differences but I gathered the general consensus was that the sohc incidences of problems was at least slightly less. The other differences (more power, etc) also were some of my reason for going for the sohc engine. I'll be a little disappointed if carfax is right and my OB has the dohc but I'm guessing they're wrong. Thanks, John

After perusing many posts here about the hg issues with various sub engines I'd decided I'd stick with buying a 2000 or later Outback with the hopes of lessening my chances of hg failure. (I know this is controversial but that's how I distilled the information) As I understood it the 2000 and beyond models all came with the SOHC engine. So I bought an outback ltd via Ebay and it hasn't arrived yet but in re-reading the Carfax report on the car it lists " 2.5L H4 PFI DOHC 16V" for the engine. Is it likely Carfax is wrong on this? Or is all the other info I've found wrong? Anyone know if they put out ANY 2000 outbacks with the DOHC engines? Thanks, John

BTW, when it comes to shipping a vehicle it might pay to shop around. The DAS folks who always seem to be linked on Ebay first quoted me $950 or so to ship this to me in Charleston, SC. After some talking I got them down to $750 but when I talked to the seller he said he works with a shipper that soon has a truck headed to Fl and could just drop it off on the way for $500. John

I'm jumping in late on this discussion but I just won a 2000 Outback on Ebay that (fingers crossed) will be a great deal. Now, after the fact, I'm doing more reading and realize that the HG has likely not been replaced on this car....what are the odds that it will need it in the future? This is the car: http://tinyurl.com/2gwdoj As for realistic price guides, I came across this site on which you can research what cars have sold for via Ebay. I know you can do this thru Ebay directly but this site seems easier to use for some reason: http://www.theautochannel.com/search/prices.html I don't think you can get a more accurate price valuation than by looking at what things have actually sold for so this might give you a better idea. On the car I won....if the headgasket was replaced, would that show up on the carfax report? The report is available in the auction and shows nothing like that so I'm assuming it wasnt' done? Thanks, John

Geez I can barely keep up with replies here... According to autocheck he's had the car for about 18 months/22k miles. How did you buy at an auction? I was under the impression that you had to be licensed in some way to participate in auto auctions.

Yeah, I'd wondered if the car had been driven hard. But the lien just means money is owed. could be a dispute or could simply be a car loan. A mortgage on a house is a lien for instance. Sigh, I'll keep looking....