wildwagonz

Hi, I just finished converting my 98 Outback to a 2.2....everything went well and it runs perfectly. I keep getting code PO743 and the CEL stays on. I have a OBD2 reader and keep checking/erasing the code and it comes back after you drive it. That is the only code and it says its something with the Torque Converter Electrical....something. The car did not have this code before the motor swap, but the car has been sitting for a year or so. I flushed the transmission and put in fresh fluid and that didn't help. The car shifts perfectly but will not lock into overdrive. I made sure the Torque Converter WAS seated properly before dropping the engine in as well. I have never had a code like this before, i'm just stumped. I've done lots of 2.2 conversions never with a problem. Any ideas? ~Tim

Hmmmmm, Thats interesting... The pulleys are exactly the same size so thats interesting, I used the belt from the EJ22 but swapped the crank and cam pulleys from the 2.5 onto the 2.2. ~tim

It worked! Thank you very much, its running perfectly. Now to swap out the Y pipes.... Thanks again ~tim

Really? Thats it? If that works that would be awesome. I just thought maybe it would throw something off....anyways i'll give it a shot and post back... Thank you all for the help! ~Tim

Hmmm I read the post....Thanks! I wonder if that holds true for the EJ22 in comparison to the EJ25 since the guy in that thread was using a 2000 legacy motor I'd assume it was a 2.5? Does anyone know if I swap the cam sproket from a 2.5 onto the 2.2 will it be ok? Thanks again, ~Tim

Ok so heres the skinny, I have a friend who has a 99 forester with a bad motor, I took on the duty of fixing it and was going to swap a 95 Ej22 into it....well it cant be done, I bought the engine and brought it home soon to find out that they are not compatible due to wiring on the intake and sensors. I thought I would just swap intakes, once again can't be done.......bolt holes don't line up SOoooooo I go out and pick up a 99 EJ22 (phase 2) looks identical to the EJ25 that came out of it, Drop it in the car put everything back together it all goes perfectly smoothly everything bolts up and plugs right in..... Turn the key and it will not fire just cranks, I keep attenpting to start it and get absolutely nothing....Run a code check on the Computer says the cam sensor is bad, I replaced it cleared the code tried starting it numerous more times and it is still telling me it is bad............ Upon further inspection, I see that the notches (teeth) on the back side of the cam sproket for the sensor are not in the same spots as they are on the 2.5? Possibly causing the bad cam sensor code??? Do I need to swap the sprockets? Or would that mess something up. Can a 2.2 even be swapped into a 99 phase 2 2.5? Help me please.......I need to get this thing back to her. Thanks very much in advance ~Tim

*UPDATE* Took the day off from work and went out this morning to tackle it, Went out and hooked everything up, battery cables were disconnected and attempted to start it.....fired right up and ran excellent. Drove it 35+ miles easy and then got on it and ran perfect didn't skip a beat. The CEL is on and its reading me O2 sensor Bank 1 sensor 2 and still that MAP/BARO sensor input low, I forget the PO numbers on both of them. What is that MAP/BARO sensor? Where is it also? I shut the car off and restarted it and it was perfect. Drove it again and its fine. It does seem however to lack power, (o2 sensor maybe) I'm going back out in a little bit to change the o2 sensor, but I really don't know to much about the other MAP/BARO sensor or what to do with it. Thanks ~Tim

The car is a 97 Outback with the 95 2.2 conversion< Engine has around 80,000 on it. I have conveted many of these over before without problems. The timing is ok, I checked it, and yes it is running (when I can get it to run) wxtremely rich because the exhaust was getting very hot when it was sitting there stumbling and barely idling. I forget the code numbers that I had, 2 of them were O2 sensor codes, and the other do were something with Map/Baro sensors i'm pretty sure, Anyways all the intake hoses are connected and all electrical plugs are okay and tight. It also has spark at each plug. Temp sensor? Thanks for the help on this, ~Tim

Hi, I think I did something really stupid tonight, I have the Actron OBD2 Scan tool, the (160 dollar auto zone one) works excellent, but tonight I think I may have fried my computer. I was checking the codes with the engine running, and decided to clear them also with it running, the CEL did go out, but almost immediately after that it started running really crappy (95 2.2) I shut it off and proceeded to change what was bad as read by the code reader. (MAP something? Over on the pass side strut tower) I go to restart it and I get nothing, it tried to start and if you gas it just right, and hold the gas to it it spits and sputters and runs terribly. I have already replaced the following, MAF, TPS is fine, IACV is fine, Replaced coil pack, plug wires, Cam sensor, crank sensor. I checked and have spark and gas, It simply wont run, it spits and sputters and tries to start but wont, sometimes if you hold the gas it'll start up and run rough and as soon as you try to give it more gas it dies, keep in mind that just before all of this it drove and ran absolutely perfect, not 2 minutes before I decided to check/clear the codes. Did I fry the computer? Any other ideas on what I should check? Thanks in advance.... ~Tim

Hi everyone thanks for getting back to me, sorry it has taken me so long to reply, its actually 3:52 am and I just got home from working out in the garage. To start, i have tried everything, the lines are not reversed,they are hooked up properly to the pump, When i say it drives fine, i mean it drives fine without the belt on. I have jacked it up and tried to bleed the system MANY times by turning the wheel back and forth (lock to lock) multiple times, hundreds of times probably (i've spent forever on this thing) Tried adding fluid while turning the wheel until it fills it up and when you keep turning the wheel it just blows out of the tank and spills everywhere. I also tried the blowing air through the lines and neither one of them does anything it will not blow through. The lines (At least down to the rack are not clogged) I checked them by loosening them and seeing if fluid pumped out and it did. I'm at a loss, how can a perfectly good steering rack that had worked fine, just instantly go bad like this? Anythign else I should be checking? Thanks for the help guys, I aqppreciate it, this thing has me stumped. ~tim

I've recently finished up a 97 Outback EJ22 Swap and new Auto Tranny. I've driven it and it runs and drives absolutely perfect until I put the alternator/Power steering belt on, then the pump starts whinning and the fluid gets extremely hot in the tank, I have taken both lines off, the fluid is getting down to the rack but it is not returning to the power steering pump/tank. The retun line I also checked and is not plugged or kinked of any sort. For some reason the rack isnt letting any fluid pass into/through it and I have Zero power assist, could it be the rack is bad? It is not leaking at all and like I said earlier without the belt on the car run and drives/steers absolutely perfect so does anybody know whats going on? Thanks in advance, I have this car sold to a friend of mine and I need to get it fixed. ~Tim