Truckerman666

1987 GL, needs new master cylinder. The car has the hill holder, but that master cylinder is much more expensive. Will the one from a non hill holder car interchange ? Thanks in advance

Those look like the factory stock wheels. They should be easy to find in junk yards. I have a set I would give away, but you live kind of far to pick them up.

I just got my car running today. I had to replace the distributor, and I could not get the one for the car, so I had to use the one that interchanges. I set the timing firing order etc. like the chilton book told me to,. The car would not start. I came here, set everything like you guys told me, the car started the first time. Thanks again.

I just fixed the same problem a couple of months ago. Replacing the speedometer was too much work, so I just did the whole cluster, $15.00 at the local junk yard. The hardest part is putting the dash back together, they never seem to go back the way they came apart. To remount the heater controls was a real pain. If you get the exact same one you took out, everything will just plug in easily. I highly suggest replacing all of the light bulbs while you have it apart. I also did not reuse the green plastic light bulb covers, this makes the dash lights brighter and easier to see. As for the mileage, I did some research and found that it does not matter legally on a car that is more than 10 years old, Also when you sell the car, you can simply sign a statement that the speedometer does not reflect the actual mileage and you are covered. I like to tell people now that I replaced the speedometer and lost almost 100,000 miles from the car. LOL

Sounds like heater hoses to me. Pull the spare tire and look underneath.

This sounds like a ground problem. Try going to a known good ground, maybe even to the negative terminal on the battery.

It sounds like you have a bad connection or broken wire between the coil and the tach. Possibly inside the coil itself, how old and beat up is it?

On my 87 there is a green plastic cap over the light bulb. I removed them to make a brighter white light in the dash. It is now a lot easier to read at night.

that looks like the old subaru i saw in a junkyard recently.

What junkyard is 3 miles away from you? I also have a window motor in my shed that I would give away.

When i slid sideways on some ice and hit a pole at 15 mph, it destroyed the passenger door and cracked the windshield. I fixed the door myself and the insurance co. did not ask any questions, so I did not volunteer any info. It still took a year of sitting in the sun for it to crack enough to replace it.

I put a new windshield in mine last year for $125.00. The insurance paid for it.

They are 13" wheels, and about the same width as the stock wheels, but the offset seems little different. They seem to stick out from the side of the car a little more than the stock ones. I got the chrome center caps from Les Schwab in Brigham City, $6.00 each, and they had them in stock! Wheeling would be fun, but my car sits too low to do anything serious. This is my everyday work car, with just over 300,000 miles. A Subaru meet of some kind here N. Utah would be great. I have 2 of the white spoke stock wheels and 3 of the black ones if anyone needs them.

Here is a picture of my wheels. These are the Mangal wheels made in Brazil. I got them from a junkyard for $15 each, and painted them with Rustoleum high performance enamel, dark machine grey.

I dont know enough about brats to tell the difference

There is a lot of good interior parts to.

look in the pic a part in Willard next to Smith and Edwards, Transwest ?, There are some of these cars with good parts and a brat with t tops and a subaru that is so old that i dont know what it is, it has round headlites.

If the heli coil came out with the plug, then a tap wont help you any. The good news is that you should be able to just thread it back in.

1. straighten out the sway bar and install it to pass the inspection. 2.Go to a well stocked auto parts store and buy a spark plug tap. try the one for the stock sized threads first. it is easier and cheaper to simply rethread them if you can. I had to do this to my car recently. If this fails, then get a heli coil kit that fits your size threads and replace them. 3. In the future always use antiseize compound on any thread that go into aluminum, especially spark plugs. 4. It is nice to see some here from Ut. I thought that I was the only one.

Yes the projector headlites like my doge truck used to have work very well. The silverstars did make a noticeable difference, just not $100 worth. The bluish light was a little brighter, but was bad for glare on a wet road. They made enough light that people used to flash me when i was using the low beams. If any one is interested, Freightliner is owned and designed by Mecedes Benz. Back in the day, freightliner was a decently made american truck, now it is just Eurotrash. a cheaply made throwaway truck. Some people like them, but I dont, everyone is entitled to an opinion. Thanks everyone here for the good discussion. I got to learn some things to. I have not tried the nighthawks, but the reports on them seem to be good. I plan to try them or the Sylvania xtra visions in my car. Maybe Ill right up a report for board. I am also working on an idea for a poor mans bumper mounted light bar. LOL about me typing so much, I am truly a horrible typist, it took me almost an hour to type those posts, to much correcting, LOL@me. I enjoy reading all of the posts from you young people here, it does me good to get a young persons viewpoint sometimes. I am just a cranky old guy, with a cranky old Subaru. Thanks for the great board.

yes those are them. I got 3 rusty caps. I will go to Les Schwab and try for some new ones. I just saw some caps on ebay for $19.99 each.

Remember, I bought these 5 years ago, when they cost almost $30 EACH. I remember about two years ago, going for a ride in an american model Mercedes, whose owner had installed the E code lights he bought bootleg from europe. They were horrible, dim and blue, i could barely see in front of the car from the passenger seat. I don't see how he could stand to drive it. In all fairness, this might have an adjustment problem, however, the amount of light they put on the road in real life conditions was almost useless. Just because a car comes from Europe, does not mean that it is well designed. I drove a brand new Freightliner a few days ago, easily the worst truck I have ever driven. Three guesses as to owns and designs them. It has the new style plastic headlights that are "better." The light pattern is no better than my old style Peterbilt with the glass sealed beams. The new style bulbs a small amount brighter, and the pattern is no better at all. The only difference that I can see, is that instead of a $15 glass sealed beam to replace, we now have $200 plus plastic lamp to replace. I do not call that an improvement. I am not impressed with European technology. Like you said, blinding almost. Just because a light blinds other drivers, does not mean it is putting out usable light. A light meter in front of the car may read more light, but does the human eye see it the same way ? Please remember what I do for a living, the amount of miles that I drive in a year, the different types of roads, terrain, weather and types of cars and lights that I get to see. I have a ringside seat to observe what works and what does not. In the real world, not just in a car or lamp manufacturers hype. Case in point, I drive an old style Peterbilt with glass lights. The light output is acceptable, and nothing more, it has a lot of room for improvement. The new model Peterbilts are advertised to have 270% more light on the road. I thought, great idea, I need to check this out. So I started to watch them as they passed me at night. The pattern was no better than mine, and light on the road was about the same. Observed by a human eye in the drivers seat, not a light meter an optimized distance away. Please see my comment above about a $15 light vs a $200 one. This led me to start observing all of the cars that pass me at night. Some had well designed lamps that truly work wonders, marvels of modern engineering. Most of the time these are Japanese cars. Some had dim, scattered, almost useless light, most of these were american cars, or old Japanese and European ones. Some had very bright lights that did not light up the road any better than my old style stuff. Most of the time these were newer European cars. Too much bright light going straight into my mirror and not on the road where it belongs. Coverage, not candlepower, making a bad light brighter will just blind some one worse. The best light patterns seem to come the Japanese cars, some of the American ones are OK, some are not, the European ones seem to be universally bad. Too much bright light going where it does not belong, right into my mirror. Some of those Japanese cars have wonderful light patterns. I wish my my old school halogens were that good. Again, I am not a light expert. I am just someone who drives 150,000 miles a year, and gets to see a lot of real world cause and effect. I did not want an argument, but a question was asked, I attempted to answer it. I simply base my opinions on my life experience and what I observe.

one more thing, there was two very old looking cars there. 1970's ?, and a brat with t tops.

ok i will have to learn how to post pics here, i am going out on the road tomorrow, i will takes some pics on thursday when I return

no pics yet, but they are white spoke wheels, i thought they were subaru wheels untill i got them home and looked at the mfr. date, 2001. They are still in pretty good shape, only a little rust. I will paint them any way. $60 in a junkyard, all from the same car, and 1/2 worn out tires to! After i get them done, I will have two of the Subaru white spokes and some black stock wheels if any one needs them. I have been looking for white spokes for a long time, this a good find for me. I got 4 wheels, 3 center caps, 2 almost new headlights, and an instrument cluster, for $115.00, I let them keep the tires, lol