Alexx

Idea one and three are intriguing for my situation. The biggest problem with my car seat is it no longer goes completely into the upright position. It's like it slipped a notch and now won't go upright all the way.

I was told that Stanley Meyers drove across the country on approximately 22 gallons of water, and that some time thereafter he was poisoned in an Ohio Restaurant and died in the restaurant, and that he screamed out, "I've been poisoned" just before he collapsed and died.

Wow, what an interesting strategy. What year Isuzu Impulse should I be looking at, and is it a "weld free" job?

I'm worried about the roof clearance as well. But I have "reinforced" the existing seat with knee cushions and a sacro-ease, which raises the seat back to what probably is where it's supposed to be.

1981

DL wagon

Can I purchase a new car seat for a Subaru car from the 80's? Are there aftermarket suppliers? I'm looking for the best quality that will fit into a Subaru DL.

If this happens on the freeway at 60 mph, aren't you endangering yourself and those who are driving near you?

The definition from Wikipedia states... (beginning of Wikipedia definition of OEM) In the automotive industry, status as an OEM is a legal identification. OEM status (in the United States) signifies that the company's automotive products have been tested and validated according to Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standard and Department Of Transportation regulations. Examples of OEM automobile companies include General Motors, Ford Motor Company, and Toyota. The last remaining small OEM automobile company in North America is Saleen, Inc.. Small "tuner" companies do not qualify for automotive OEM status as they do not bear legal liability for vehicle safety or performance. (end of wikipedia definition of OEM) ---------------------------------------------------------- Most resellers call their parts OE, not OEM. They must be doing this for a reason, no? If there is somebody out there who is rich, curious, and has time on their hands, please buy an OEM radiator from the link I provided several posts back and buy an OE radiator from the places generously mentioned by others, tear them both apart and examine how they are made, including metal thickness and welding proficiency, and let us know if there is a difference in quality. Hey, if we don't put the scenario out there, no one knows to try it.

It's somewhat factually irrelevant how one feels about a NEW radiator they just purchased. I definitely appreciate those contributions because I value the input but it doesn't directly relate to my ultimate concern, which I outlined in my original question, which had to do with radiator longevity. Based on my initial concern that I clearly posted in my original question, wouldn't you agree that all that really matters to me are the radiators that people bought 5 years ago or longer that are still working fine? When I bought my replacement radiator three years ago I too thought it was a fine radiator. The companies paint their radiators gloss black and they look like they are brand new and in fine shape, yet we really don't know how thick the metal inside is or how long they will last. Perhaps if more people care about quality in addition to price OEM would still mean something, assuming that the statement by others that OEM doesn't mean anything is true. I would say that it is a somewhat bold assertion to make when one states that OEM doesn't really mean anything, so maybe the spotlight should be on that statement rather than mocking me for still wanting to know if OEM carries any weight.

Let me point out that very few OEM choices came up. Actually, I think the link I gave was the only one. So either their product is a step above, or they are being deceptive. I forgot the google phrases I used, but I got my list down to six choices and only one actually was in English and had what I was looking for.

I checked the site, they are called "OE" rather than "OEM". They sound like good stuff but wouldn't I rather want an "OEM" versus an "OE" if I wanted the best quality?

I've been lured by the call of racing car performance. I put "Jolt" racing transmission fluid in my car just after it was rebuilt at 190,000 miles (70,000 miles ago) and I don't regret it at all. The fluid seems to work well from the get go even on cold days as compared to the standard gear oil I was using before. I'm interested in finding out how many manufacturers there really are for these radiators. I heard two of the biggest recently merged, Is there really a choice?

OK, I did a Google search making sure to use the phrase "OEM". ONLY SIX CHOICES CAME UP! Here is what I found as what appears to be the only "OEM" radiator seller. http://rep.racepages.com/parts/racepages/wizard.jsp?year=1981&make=SU&model=ALL--002&category=G&part=Radiator&dp=false&showdc=false&appTransmissionType=Manual I like that it is MORE EXPENSIVE than all the other radiators, that all seem to sell for around $120.00 dollars. However more expensive doesn't necessarily mean anything, OEM should mean something, no? The picture of the radiator looks pretty much identical to the original radiator, now the question is, just how hardy is the actual metal wall on the inside of the radiator?

I looked but I couldn't find the name brand on it. What is the most expensive radiator on the market that makes Subaru aftermarket radiators.

Assuming you have a front wheel drive car, when the boots rip the axle grease will spill out and onto the catalytic convertor, which is hot, and causes an odd smell to happen. If that is the problem you'll probably see grease sprayed in little splats up above the cat against the firewall (is that what they call it?)

I was away from the screen too long and my answer disappeared when I clicked to post it. I hate when that happens. Here's the concise version. The metal appears to be too thin around the outflow port (I made that phrase up I guess). When the radiator first started to leak I thought it was the bottom outflow hose that was bad. After loosening the hose and trying to pull it off I noticed the outflow port flexing! That can't be good, sure enough the leak was caused by what looks to me to be very thin metal that has simply worn through. Over a third of the outflow port circumference had had a hairline crack I had the radiator welded/soldiered a month ago and now it's leaking again. I haven't checked to see if it's from the exact same spot yet. The metal fillets that cool the water appear to be fine. My opinion is the radiator manufacturer cheaped out on the thickness of the metal in certain parts of the radiator. I shouldn't be able to see the radiator walls flex so easily simply by tugging on the attached bottom radiator hose, should I?

One of my worst car repair nightmares has come to pass because it involves no moving parts and frankly, I should be able to buy a good radiator and not have to worry about it for several years, especially if I am willing to buy the best radiator on the market. The original Subaru Radiator lasted 20 years and only had to be replaced when my smog guy crashed my car while he was driving it. I explained to the radiator shop that I WOULD PAY EXTRA for a radiator that would last if not as long as the original, at least for 6 years or longer. He assured me I was getting an all steel top notch radiator. This top notch radiator has lasted at most three years and is history. I'll start by saying I don't care about price. I mean I do care about price but if the quality difference between a radiator that will only last 2-3 years versus one that will last 6 years or longer is a hundred bucks, I'll gladly spend the extra hundred bucks. Any recommendations for a radiator for my 80's Subaru?

Sounds like I have a 1.8, aka EA81. I don't plan on engine swapping however.

Although I used to work on my car and do the basics, I no longer do so I have not researched what those terms mean. I don't even know if I have an EA81 or an EA82.

As time goes on, are Fuel Injection conversions a growing trend for those of us with Subarus made in the 80's? I really don't want to be a guinea pig, but if someone out there is doing them on a regular basis, successfully, I would be interested in having my car converted. I really don't like the unsteadyiness when I'm idling. It's not horrible bad, but I notice it.

What is special about the fuel pump that has led you to believe you get better gas mileage than a fuel injection changeover? Is it creating a finer fuel air mist?

Would I get any improvement in gas mileage if the changeover were done?

Is anyone actually offering carburetor to fuel injection changeover service for our older subarus?

It seems to me it would be much more "Darwinian" aka faster to smell burning CV Boot grease when it lands on the engine or the cat while driving then waiting until the next time I check under the car.