Bluestone

Ah yes, I remember those little death traps (ok, my favorite, the rather diminutive, underpowered Citroen 2 CV was still a more robust car;)) being sold in the late '60s by San Francisco's Citroen dealer Executive Motors, on Nob Hill at the top of California Street. Advertised them as the "Hippie car" (remember the Hippies? Well, I was one! Lots of free unrepressed sex , free thinking, free living and plenty of Acid tripping....ah, those were the days, sigh....). Weighed only 900 lbs, had a 25hp 2 stroke engine; couldn't get out of its own way...the engine guarantied to burn out by 25k miles. Consumers Reports tested it's crashworthyness, back then, by slamming one head on with a VW beetle; it came out far worse. Hey, but it got over 60mpg! Better than a Toyota Preus.

I experienced a rather slow but steady loss of coolant from my Sube's reservoir. At 47k miles I had the dealer check for leaks as well as drain and refill with fresh coolant plus additive; I had the cooling system refilled plus additive at the 30k service, but it was more than 2 years since then and I only put 17k miles on the car. Dealer's service dept. reported no leakage found; they did a pressure test as well as check for visual evidence of leaks. Since the most recent drain and refill, the coolant level has held steady for the first 5000 or so miles and for the past few thousand miles has been very slowly dropping. I checked for seepage around the head/engine block area but can find none, nor any around the various hoses. The temp gauge is always normal, there's no coolant smell, the heater works fine. The motor oil never appears contaminated. Some Subie owners say they never experience any coolant loss, other say they do and that it's normal.:-\ So I just shrug my shoulders and and add a little coolant from time to time. As long as my Subie doesn't run hotter or show excessive coolant loss nor any really noticeable symptoms of head gasket failure, I'll just keep truckin'. No point in agonizing over this issue.

I've used the 3M protectors; they're a soft, flexible, plastic material with adhesive on one side. They work quite well, except if you need to remove them the adhesive remains stuck to the headlight surface and is a nightmare to get off. After several years, one of the protectors became progressively more opaque, apparently due to prolonged sun exposure. After softening the adhesive with a hair dryer, it peeled off easily but the adhesive remaining on the headlight took several hours worth of elbow grease using a rag soaked in "Goop"; I tried denatured alcohol but it just didn't cut it. And I was reluctant to use paint thinner or acetone for fear of damaging the plastic headlight surface. I now use Meguiars PlastX clear plastic cleaner and polish, which I got at an auto supply store, every so often as the headlight surface starts to become oxidized. Takes just a few minutes and works beautifully. Oh, for the good old days of glass headlights. True, they could break if hit by a stone, but they were far cheaper to replace than the ones on cars now. And the glass ones were far more resistant to pitting than these costly plastic headlight assemblies.

If the timing belt did, indeed, break at only 73k miles, I'd really be interested to know why? Possibly the engine was driven to its limits, pushed abusively? Or somehow became soaked with oil? Anyway, I've never thought well of the trend of car manufacturers toward timing belts. Timing chains are far more robust and much longer lasting. And the necessary belt replacement at 60-105k mile intervals just adds a big expense to overall maintenance costs, unless one has the expertise/time to do it oneself....which most of us don't. Ah well, sigh..........

Well, reading some user reviews for locking caps sure didn't inspire confidence. One reviewer wrote that he lost the keys for it so he easily removed the cap with a pipe wrench. Another wrote that he inadvertently turned the key in the opposite direction when trying to unlock it and pulled the whole feckin' lock out along with the key. Forget the locking gas cap; I'm just gonna weld the gas door shut....and surround the gas tank with 3/8" armor plate.

With gasoline prices going up, up, up and headed for the stratosphere (crude oil touched $120 per barrel today, and will, sooner than you might think, reach at least $200......$8+ a gallon gasoline, anyone? ), gas theft out of one's gas tank will become a problem. While Sube's have a locking gas door, it can be pried open by a motivated, determined thief....and the costlier gasoline becomes, the more motivated/determined the thieves (and the greater the frequency of thefts!). Are there locking gas caps available for Subies which also are air tight(to prevent the "check engine" light from activating)? A locking cap would give an extra measure of protection against gas theft, no?

This may be worth checking out: http://www.myairbags.com/

As I understand it, the head gasket issue with the EJ25 engine is more a matter of a design flaw in the engine, rather than with the head gasket itself, which allows for an excessive, greater than normal amount of stress on the hg. The newest versions of the head gasket may be more robust, making it more resistant to the stress, but unless the engine is actually redesigned, it's doubtful that the problem can be completely resolved. So, barring any hard evidence to the contrary, I'd say that it's likely that the head gasket still remains a weak point in the newer Subes.

I, for one, have never found any noticeable differences between brands...or non-brands, in how my Subie runs. I always use mid-range(89 octane), though, never regular(87 octane). And every 5 or 6 months, I add a bottle of Red Line SI-1(good stuff....Techron is also good) to insure that my Sube's fuel system/combustion chamber are squeaky clean. So far, I've not experienced any starting problems, rough running, power drop-offs, unusual mpg drops...other than what can be accounted for by driving conditions (i.e., more traffic/city driving or less highway driving, weather) or pinging...the only exception, here, being a slight, very brief initial pinging on starting to go from a complete stop on a rather steep hill.

Some years ago, on a previous car, a 1986 Peugeot(yeah, ) I lost the gas cap twice(!), forgetting it at gas stations...cost about $25 each time to replace. I'm rather glad that my Subie's gas cap is attached. Regarding the oil level on the dipstick, I, too, usually have a bitsch of a time getting a correct oil level on my Sube:mad:. I always check the oil on level ground, but it's sometimes under the notch (or hole, if the oil is hot), sometimes over, and often under on one side of the dipstick and over on the other side:-\ Even pulling the dipstick out and waiting for several minutes before shoving it back in and then out again () often gives no satisfaction. I've done that several times in a row, finally determining that my oil is somewhat low, adding some carefully, then finding at the next time I check the level that the oil is a quarter of an inch above the full mark....sigh... I give up!!! I've never experienced such a problem getting a correct oil level reading with ANY other car!

Back in the days of pre-unleaded gas, premium grade gas was as high as 98-100 octane, mid-range 95-97 and regular 92-94. Now, the unleaded pisswater;) which passes for gasoline ranges from 87 octane for regular to 91 octane for premium(), and at $4 per gallon and rising. And our cars come equipped with complicated and costly electronics to allow the engine to run efficiently on the anemic swill. Anyway, I've always used mid-range gas, 89 octane in my Sube even though it's designed to run on a minimum of 87. I just feel that's it's better for the engine in the long run. My Subie's engine never pings under hard acceleration. Only if I start up from a dead stop on a reasonably steep hill will I get a slight ping initially, and then only for less than a second. Paying the 10 cents a gallon more for a bit higher octane gas really doesn't add that much to one's overall yearly car maintenance expenses, especially when compared to all the other costs associated with car ownership. And a steady diet of a couple of extra octane, especially in these days of extra low calorie gas, is likely kinder to the engine.

Hmm, I'd like to go for a set but I'm unclear about how they'd successfully fit on a Sube. Since Subie's have no door channels around the side windows, the gutters would have to be attached to the car's body/roof above the windows, no? Then how would the window, when fully closed, clear the gutter when opening a door? The gutters seem to curve over the top and front edge of the windows. Or do the closed windows actually clear the gutters when a door is opened? Or if the gutters install on the doors (hard to believe THAT), how could they stay securely attached??? Would someone please explain, draw me a picture or otherwise enlighten me?:-\

My gut feeling tells me that playing around with home brew recipes for upping the octane is just risking engine/fuel system damage and reduced engine life. Maybe it's ok with an older high mileage car if one is willing to to do one's own repairs or rebuilds that may be needed as a result. But on, say, a 2005 OBW XT, don't look for trouble. So gas prices in certain neighborhoods are 50 cents more per gallon....just pay it. Engine damage resulting from fecking around with do-it-yourself chemistry can easily result in many thousands of $$$$$ in repairs. Is it worth the risk? And proprietary octane boost additives from your local auto supply store are not cost effective and are, at best, only marginally effective. We'll all be paying $5, $6, $7 a gallon for gas (and possibly even higher:eek:) in the next few years anyway, so just get used to it. The overall cost of driving and maintaining a car is high and getting higher all the time. That's just the way it is. If ya don't want to assume the higher and higher costs of car ownership, then just don't own a car. Paying more and more for gas is just something ya need to accept. You've got a turbo engine in your Sube; ya have to pay a price for that. And Subies, being AWD vehicles, are not the most frugal on gas, anyway. Either "pay, or don't play", period. That's my 2 cents.

I'm almost certain that all Legacy and Outback models share the same engine. I've got a set of factory service manuals for my 2000 Legacy GT wagon and there's no differentiation there between models regarding engine and transmission info. My service manuals cover all Legacy and Outback models for year 2000.

I've been using PBR/Axxis Ultimate ceramic pads http://www.importrp.com/product.php?productid=55185&cat=37&page=1, front and rear, on my Sube for the past couple of years and love them. Maximum fade resistance and braking power....they bite beautifully hot or cold, and are noise free. They do put out a fair amount of dust, but their performance is outstanding. And their price from IRP is unbeatable. I know you want standard rotors, but I recently installed DBA 4000 slotted front rotors http://www.dba.com.au/2006/default.asp and am just totally pleased with their performance. Smooth, powerful braking....especially with the Axxis Ultimate pads. They're around $116 each but, to me, considering their excellent performance, they're worth it. I think DBA makes plain, standard rotors as well; they manufacture really high quality rotors. Anyway, the PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads are definitely a winner!

Interstate batteries have been reliable for me. Just shop around for prices, they vary widely from retailer to retailer. Some places sell Interstates below list price with no installation charge. But the various brands mentioned here are all good. The ones with the longer warranties tend to be the most reliable. I've got an Interstate with a 75 month warranty in my Subie now. (I wouldn't be caught DEAD in a Walmart....I absolutely HATE those muddafugguhs! )

Well, out of curiosity, I inquired with King Springs Australia about their stock springs for my Legacy, referring to their on-line catalog. It lists a "Liberty" but not a Legacy; I assumed the Liberty is the Australian equivalent of the Legacy. They referred me to Ionperformance in Calgary, Alberta, Canada, http://www.ionperformance.com Ionperformance distributes King springs for North American Subes. Jack Ho of Ionperformance told me that King Springs catalog #s won't work for North American Subarus. The springs that Ionperformance imports install with OEM North America Subaru parts. Email Jack if you have any questions about applications for your particular Sube: jack@ionperformance.com He quoted me a price of ~$350US, plus $65US for shipping to California. Don't think I'll go for them though. The Bilsteins and sway bars would be expensive enough, with the cost of having them installed additional (although I likely could do the sway bars myself.....nah, my bad back would give me fits.

Dunno how young you are but the younger one is, the more financially irresponsible one tends to be. Going into debt just to get high (and that's just what this is) is, imho, the height of irresponsibility. Do you tend to be an addictive type of person? You just bought a real sweet car but you're still not satisfied. Well, let me tell ya, you'll ALWAYS be Jonesin' for the next high, whatever it may be. How deep in debt are you willing to get, 'cause it's not gonna stop with a new '07 STi; there'll always be the next "absolute drool", the next "I just gotta have it". But then, it's your decision......and your life.

They're available here http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/search/?D=denso+oil+filter&Ntt=denso+oil+filter&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&N=1719&Nty=1 They come with two different parts numbers; one at $4.95 each and the other at $6.95 each, but both fit the same Subes. The filters for $4.95 have 8 smaller oil outlet holes in the metal plate and seem to be a bit larger overall, and the $6.95 filters have 6 larger holes in the plate but seem to be a bit smaller overall. Dunno, maybe the $6.95 filters correspond to Subaru's later filters? Are they superior in any way to the $4.95 ones? Anyway, the prices seem quite good....and free shipping with orders over $50.

Are they quality filters, like Wix/Napa Gold, OEMs?

Well, think I'll pass on the stiffer springs idea after all. Firmer struts (Bilsteins...I like it, I like it! The HDs sound really fine; now gotta mull the cost factor over for a while) and upgraded sway bars should do me just fine.

Another question comes to mind; are there firmer springs available for my Sube which will NOT lower (or raise) it. As it is now, my Subie's bottom front end scrapes the pavement when going from the street onto an inclined driveway, or parks, head on, against a slightly higher curb. Lowering the car will only compound the matter! And, of course, if the road clearance is increased, handling will suffer (i.e., higher center of gravity; bye the way, I'm really disappointed that Subaru has dropped the Legacy wagon as of 2007....OBWs only, now, with it's higher road clearance and, therefore, somewhat compromised handling). I'll just stick with my Subie's original road clearance, thank you!

Actually, my Sube has only 52k miles on it; I've been traveling out of the country a lot these past 6 1/2 years (I bought it new in August '01 even though it's a '00), and haven't had occasion to drive it as much as I'd like. Anyway, I've always felt that the suspension was a bit too bouncy. And Legacys as well as OBs do tend to roll rather easily on cornering. And Strakes, thanks for pointing me to the Bilstein HDs; didn't realize that Bilstein made struts for the '00 and up Legacys. The HDs look like just what I'm after. They are rather pricey, though...have to give it some thought. And the Rallitek sway bars look sweet, too!

Just checked the KYB 2008 catalog, on line, and there are NO parts numbers listed for Legacy/Outback AGX struts (except the '92-'94 Legacy), only for the GR-2s; the Agx struts are available just for the Impreza. The GR-2s "might" be slightly firmer that the OEM struts, but I'm not willing to go through the expense of installing them only to find out that they're not firm enough. I'm looking for rock solid control and handling over bumps, dips and rough road while still providing a comfortable ride.

I've searched around but can't find firmer struts made for my Sube. KYB makes replacements but they're essentially the same as the OEM ones. Bilstein? Koni?.... zilch. My Subie's struts haven't gone bad, it's just that they've always been a bit too bouncy for my taste; I'd like firmer ones for better handling, especially at highway speeds. I know I can put beefier sway bars on to reduce roll, but I'd also like better composure for my Sube when it hits bouncy patches at speed in mountain driving or on the highway. Am I just stuck with the type of suspension my Sube already has?