Gyoas759

Lots of people have been posting some pretty fun pictures of their subies in the snow etc. Thought the forum could use a video thread. I needed something to test out the video editing software on my new computer, so my room mate and I took the subaru out in the woods to play in the snow. Made a great subject for a first video. Anyone else have any good subie videos to share?

Once the snow melts or freezes solid, I'll crawl under there and look. Anyone have any tips on what I should be looking for? My first thought is to jack up the body and push against the wheels themselves to see if there's any play.

For a while now, I can feel a little play in the front steering, as well as the usual CV clicks, there's a louder clunking noise. Tonight my room mate and I did some donuts etc. in the gravel pit nearby. Nothing really rough, but definatly bounced around quite a bit. Had a lot of fun in the snow! When I got back onto the paved road, I had much more of a wobble as I drove. It seems to come and go, but when it's bad, it's REALLY bad. top speed is about 40 mph or it feels like the vibration will shake my arms right off the wheel. I can also hear a little noise from what sound like the passenger front side. Worn bearings? What did I do to my car? I have nearly 2 spare cars worth of parts, so I'm not too worried. But what might it be and where do i go from here?

I have a guy who needs an ignition control module from the 82 GL I parted out. I'm pretty sure I have it among the unidentifiables I have in a box, but I don't know what it looks like. Anyone able to help with a description or picture of one? Thanks!

I think the coil is wired right to the battery. That would do it? This car is a patchwork of at least 4 EA81 cars and an EA82, uses speaker wire to power different options, switches for the radiator fan etc. and is currently held together in places with JB weld. Nothing can be ruled out. It's been an off road toy for a while and I'm now trying to make it more highway worthy. Anyone able to confirm that axles from an auto will also fit a D/R?

I couldn't find anything in USRM on swapping from carburated to Fuel injected. I have an 83 GL Wagon with a 4 speed D/R with a carbed EA82 swapped in. The junk yards around here are full of fuel injected Loyales and GLs. And I'm thinking about summer time and getting a little more power out of this thing for highway driving and going up some of the steep hills around my house. The parts wont be a problem, but I'm not sure how to do the swap. Anyone know of a good write up for the swap? Or care to write out what i need to get and install to do the swap?

Rather than ship a seat, I'm wanting to just remove the covers and ship them to another USMB member. Can it be done? And if so, how should I do it? They're on there pretty tight.

I can't keep up with all the technical stuff of this sort of swap, but saw this the other week and thought I'd share. It's very inspirational to watch. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=enMDCVKVjUc Now if he were to put a lift kit and some swampers on there....

You can check if the battery cable itself is bad using jumper cables. Attach the positive end to the positive battery terminal, the other to the link up on the starter. If it starts - bingo! Bad battery cable. Had it happen on my Explorer last winter.

Battery connections are the first step. Take the connectors off and clean up both surfaces - the battery terminals and the inside of the cables. A wire brush is really handy for it, but I usally use a screwdriver. Otherwise, fusable links are the usual culprit. On most models it's on the passenger side. Check for corrosion, loose wiring etc. if not, somone with more know how than me will chime in soon.

Yeah. it's not running. They're just always on when the battery is connected. Not sure what to change for that.

Just went out and connected the battery. The clock, stop lamp, brake fluid, 4x4 and the little battery voltage meter are all lit up. That would mean replace the alternator?

Turbo car was bought with bad rust, no engine, no turbos. I have a for sale thread started for it's parts. The rust is the real killer, or I'd be in the market for an EA81T. Rusted through in more than just the fender wells. I'm also gussing frame rot, but haven't gotten that far yet. Wiring was our very own Miles Fox. An EA82 in an 83 wagon, so I'll look and see what might line up. I have plenty of EA81 wiring harnesses, but nothing for the EA82. I'm still sorting out what's what under the hood.

I'm learning more and more about these subies, but still a bit of a beginner compared to many on this board. 1. I just bought a 1984 Turbo Wagon as a parts donor for my 83 GL. Both cars are 4x4s but my 83 is a 4 speed dual range and the 84 is an automatic. My 83's axles are shot and there seems to be a good amount of play in the front suspension. Worn bearings sort of feel. My 83 is about to turn over 200k and the parts car has 58k and feels pretty nice and tight. My thought is to swap the axles and front suspension over from the 84 turbo to the 83. Are the axles and all going to be the same between an 84 turbo automatic and the non turbo 4 speed D/R? 2. I'm also thinking of replacing the rear shocks but I'm scared of breaking a bolt back there since this car has felt it's share of rust etc. over the years. How do I go about replacing 24 year old shocks without breaking a bolt? I'd love to smooth the car out a bit, but I can sure tolerate it as is compared to having to deal with another broken bolt. 3. The guage cluster lights on my GL are always on. The 4x4 light (Cause the lever doesn't touch the floor anymore etc.) I have to disconnect my battery every time I leave the car for more than a few hours. Any ideas? 4. I currently use a screwdriver to start the car. No problem. it's an old car and I've never had a key for it. I don't mind it at all. BUT the car engine doesn't shut off when I turn the ignition back again. I have to lightly ease up the clutch and stall the car out to turn it off. Again, any ideas? Thanks all. I love this board!

I've been getting a jumpy tach lately along with some hesitation in my 83GL. It has a carbed EA82 in it. Went to the junk yard a few weeks ago and unknowingly got a fuel injected model distributor. So back again today and found a nice carbed GL but couldn't get the darn distributor out. Undid both bolts, and even pried with a tire iron etc. It will move back and forth but wont come out. Found another car with the same result. Had to go home without one. On the FI model and previous EA81 distributors they pop out easily. What am I missing with these?

It's a bolt that goes to one of the bleeder valves for a brake line. It's actually on my 87 Toyota attached to the LSPV in the back. The whole bleeder doesn't turn. Instead, there's a bolt between the line and the bleeder. I can't finish my brake work and bleed the line without replacing that bolt now.

Trying to remove one of the bolts today and had a snap. I know this happens on older cars, but this is the first time it's been on something critical. I'm playing with the idea of trying to drill a hole in the bolt and use a screw remover bit to back it out. Anyone know of any better way to remove a bolt without the head? Or any what to use to soften it up besides WD40?

I'm driving an 83 GL 4x4 wagon with the EA81 dual range trans and a carbed EA82 engine installed. I think my distributor is going bad. I pulled a distributor from a low miles EA82 wagon in the J/Y but it doesn't look like the one in my car. It does look like the couple EA81 distys I have lying around. Will an EA81 disty fit my EA82? And is there a difference in the distributors between the carbed and EFI Ea82s?

Was there a good part of the day. There are still no EA81s to speak of,:-\ but was amazed with some of the other stuff. 2 SVXs with no engines. EA82s everywhere, one of which was a full time 4wd turbo. At least one XT, Legacys and Imprezas all over, and what hurt the most.... a Legacy GT with the 2.5 engine at about 170k.... I didn't have the money to spend for an eventual project like that, but the engine looked so pretty sitting there. I'm planning on going back again on Friday or Saturday. Anyone need me to scout for anything?

I've been giving this a lot of thought too and the best thing I can think of would be to reframe at least the front (Probably the back too, but not as extensively) to fit longer shocks and provide a much stronger mounting surface. Weld and bolt the rails right to the side wall. It would give you the ability to install much longer and cushier suspension. Any other thoughts on this? I drew a few little diagrams outlining the framing. Plenty of room. My preference and thought would be an EA81 Wagon. Anyone know what the rules/limits are to enter. I was on the SCORE website, but couldn't find much that was helpful. Ended up on youtube and getting wistful. I think the idea has great potential. Would love to be able to see a subie go flying over one of those jumps alongside some of the best in the world and hold it's own. If my subie knowledge continues to grow, the Draconic Automotive team may just enter this race in a reborn old subie.

Yup. 4 speed D/R with an EA82.

It is. I bought it off of him back in June while visiting my parents in Chicago. Got it running again and gave it new glass, a fender some pugs and a good cleaning. Now it's in PA getting a few upgrades and maybe even a lift.

My room-mate and I decided to do a little stomping around on some of the trails and slag hills around Mt Carmel. I'm starting to wonder if I should even bother lifting the wagon. Seems it can handle almost anything already and I haven't even put A/Ts on it yet.

Yesterday my room mate and I were driving home from school in his 1988 Honda Accord and we lost 5th gear. The car just suddenly revved and had no power. All 4 other gears seem to work fine, but if you shift into fifth gear you get nothing. I'm assuming that the gear is broken and a new tranny is in order? Assuming such, I'm only 45 minutes from Harry's U-Pull-It in Hazleton, so getting another manual tranny won't be a problem. I have never done a tranny swap in anything. I figure an 88 Accord would be an easy car to start with. How hard will it be to do the swap? Is it bolt off, bolt on? Just wondering what I should know before I give this a shot.

Might be a little easier this way. if anyone has pictures of what I'm supposed to do with the spots I marked in these pictures. The large arrow in the thrid picture seems to be my biggest hitch right now. The accelerator cable is about a foot to the right of where it seems it should be for the hitachi. Anyone have any pics to show what I should do with these things? The vacume diagram from under the hood of a hitachi model might help too. Thanks!