Cold Chuck

That diagram is a big help. The needle bearing (#4) - is it possible that it fell apart and preventing the input shaft from going seated properly against the main shaft? Can the input shaft be able to remove with front cover or the oil tray (#38) blocks that movement? I am going to try to pry the cover off again but tapping the input shaft back in while prying the cover at same time. Is that acceptable method?

THANK YOU for replying. Yes, the reverse idler gear shaft is flush with the housing and the cut edge is lined up with the cover. The seal has not been replaced at all in input shaft. What happen was that he (the nosy neighbor) removed 3 bolts and tried to pull the cover off using two prybars it would not move anymore after past 3/4 of inch or so from the main case. So, he tried to put the cover back in and it stopped about 1/4 to 1/8 of gap to go. Then I took over at that point and could not persuade the cover to go back little further. I put 3 bolts in and tighten it a little at time and the input shaft binds up (it will not spin easy). A thought occured to me that maybe a bearing or something (perhaps a sychro ring?) inside or at the back the input shaft slipped and blocked the input shaft from going in little further so the cover can install. My mechanic experience lies mostly with Eaton Fuller transmission from 5 speed to 18 speeds. I did tempt to use BFH on the cover but the cover looks too puny to handle that. So I just tap it in gently with mallet. No joy. I think worst case is that i may have to split the case apart to see whats going on. Yes, I turned the transmission front side up (holding it vertically) to see if the cover can go in. No joy either. I rotated the input shaft while tightening the 3 bolts a little a time and it binds up. Now, the question is... can that cover be removed from case without tearing the case apart? I just dont have a "exploded" diagram of this transmission. ,

I am going to shoot him! This frustrates me. I might as well do this... to this 5MT transmission. I really wished he has not touched my car. :mad: Oh well, time for me to have this....

Alright, for past couple of days, I have been trying to undo that bastard neighbor's work on the front seal of the tranny. I don't have FSM on this transmission. So, tell me what I need to do to reinstall the cover back on. It wont go in - only about 1/4 to 1/8" to go and the input shaft binds up when putting 3 bolts back in.

Thanks. My neighbor came over yesterday afternoon. I happen to mention the input shaft seal was seeping abit and I am not going to touch it this time. He said "I have seen this before and its easy fix. Just take out 3 bolts." He used be a mechanic at some dealer before. I went into the house to get few things for him and went back out, there he was trying to pull the front cover off the tranny. Scratching the hell out of the aluminum pieces with two lady foot prybars. He told me that he now remembered that he never worked on Subaru transmission.. just other brands. He tried to put it back in but couldn't. I gave him his stuff and sent him away. :mad: Now. I gotta figure out how to reinstall the cover back on. It looks like it has a shim there and the cover is about 1/2 inch or so from mating the tranny case. This will be interesting. Thanks for telling me about the "radius plates" I dont know what that was but I assume that is a part where the crossmember bolts to and where it bolts to the body? Should I go ahead put in hill holder valve in before putting the 5mt back into the car? Any other advises I need to do before reassembling the keeper car? Last thing I want to do is after the car was finished, I overlooked important and easy stuff which is much harder to do once it is in place.

Got the auto tranny out - what a pain. I am so sore. I had the flywheel resurfaced and installed on the engine along with new clutch. Now, what is left is to replace the front input seal on the tranny and stab the 5 speed tranny back in. I took out the entire pedal assembly from donor car to put into the keeper car. So, any advise about replacing that leaky seal in the input shaft? Rear main seal of the keeper car is bone dry also.

The seal is seeping a bit. I got the tranny out now. and the inside of the bellhousing is covered with gummy dust (oil mixed with clutch dust). The oil is coming out of the input shaft seal a little. The engine rear main seal is bone dry and flywheel housing is dry. Here is the thing, I drive 125 miles a day 5 days a week from 6500 ft to 10,500 ft and back down. Last thing I want to do is to repair what I should have repaired already in first place. To answer another question. The '86 donor car 5 speed 4wd has a 4WD lever where you have to pull it up to engage the 4x4. It might be dual range?? It has a microswitch mounted on the boot just next to the 4wd lever. The '87 keeper car 3AT has single range push button 4WD on the shifter just below the handle. Right now, I got the '86 donor car stripped off the pedal assembly, speedo cable (its longer version than 3AT version). It has "hill holder" valve but I am not going to use it unless if you tell me that its worth to have it. FYI, the donor car has 170,000 miles on it and the '87 keeper car has 72,000 miles on it. On '87 I assume that I will have to plug the vacuum line to the modulator from carb and disconnect wiring that I dont need for this transmission. Right? Or do I have to transfer the wiring from '86 donor car to '87 keeper car? Is the rear driveshaft same length? Axle spline should be OK I hope.

okay what about the 4x4 switch? I took a look inside the auto center console and it has switches mounted to the side of the auto shifter. Now, a slightly different question... i would like to replace the input shaft seal while the 5 speed is out. Do I have to tear it down to replace the seal or will the front "cover" comes out of the front of the tranny?

Alright, I bought a donor car - 1986 Wagon just like mine (mine is 87). This '86 has 5 speed but trashed clutch. Both same engine - EA82 carb. But '86 has high altitude modification done by dealer whereas mine has not been modified. So, is it easy to swap in? What about wiring? Thanks for the support!

That governor gear is a metal gear just like the first one. So how hard to tear it down to replace the transmission shaft gear?

Alright, I replaced a "apple cored" governor gear about 600 miles ago (71,200 miles on the clock). Now, it got chewed up 600 miles later and I lost 3rd gear. The transmission shaft gear is fine and dandy. I took off the gear and put the governor in the hole - not much radial play. The shaft does not have much wear. The valves moves inside the bore smoothly. Now, why did the gear go bad that early? Is it my jerky driving style when driving at 50 mph on 6% grade with tranny hunting between 2nd and third gear? Any of you people experience this and what was your fix?

That did it. Changing the fuel filter cured the surging. I wish someone could have warned me about messy job - LOL. I had to jack up so I could fit under the car. Now only last question remains - how do I replace the plastic tube for windshield spray nozzle behind the firewall? As I mentioned before the tube broke inside the firewall - inside the grommet. This needs to be fixed as clean windshield is a must here! I will contact the dealer and find out about high altitude kit. While I was driving, I keep hearing little noise coming only from right rear wheel. it sounds something rattling and goes away past 30 mph and at stop. I dunno what that was. By the way I sprayed entire carb and intake areas and all the vacuum lines and stuff with carb cleaner and I could not get the engine to rev up. Some of the vacuum hoses are stiff but not cracked. So I guess I will have to find the time to replace them all. What size are the hoses?

"You might check at the dealer and see if they can still get you a "high altitude" kit for it. They made them when these were sold new. It will probably just reroute some hoses - they may even be able to tell you how to accomplish the same thing with off-the-shelf components if you ask them to look it up in the factory service literature. GD" I googled for the kit. All I could find was for aircraft - specifically ultralight aircraft. I did not know they use this engine to fly the planes!! Does anyone has info on this kit? Will that help my surging condition? I checked Alldata and there is nothing in there about this kit. Must be dealer black bag item?

The surging feels like to me that I'm running out of fuel and then when RPM drops (with throttle held down) then all of sudden engine surges ahead with more power up to around 4000 RPM and then drops back down. It does it worse when the throttle is held down to the floor on a up grade. I managed to make this go away when I put the throttle no more than 3/4 of travel but boy its sure slow not like my HO Cummins engine with stage 1 injectors. I knew that its a gasser not diesel and with diesel prices (4.75 a gal) is killing me.

There is very slight surging when engine is warmed up - not as bad as when cold. After driving and parking, engine would be idling at 1100-1200 RPM and dieseling when shut off for few seconds. I haven't changed the fuel filter because I can't find the old one. Here what I have done: 1) changed all spark plugs 2) changed cap and rotor 3) checked spark plugs wires resistance 4) put seafoam into carb about 1/4 of bottle (to the point where it stumbles) and dumped rest in tank 5) checked timing - was set at 10 and adjusted to 8. 6) inspected for cracked vacuum lines That's about it. I will try again with carb cleaner spray.

Okay.. I am a diesel mechanic for large trucks not this little cars. I checked timing with dist advance plugged. Engine running at just shy of 1000 RPM (automatic 4x4 tranny). Timing was set at 10 BTC. I adjusted to 8 degrees. I replaced the cap /rotor and the spark plugs (set at 0.040" gap). My home base altitude is 6,500 ft and my workplace is at 10,000 ft. Is there any thing special I need to do? This car used come from sea level. I bought new fuel filter and I can't find the old one anywhere in engine compartment and I can't fit under the car being that its low to the ground. So Please tell me the location of the filter? And one other unanswered question about windshield washer tube. I would (no scratch that..) I must have that clear tube fixed so I do not know what the repair procedure for this. It just broke at the firewall grommet and I can't get it the other half out to replace the tubing? Does the entire dashboard needs to come out to replace it? So thanks for the help! :-\

Hello, I have parked my '04 Dodge Ram with Cummins to drive this 1987 Subaru Wagon with auto. Engine is EA82 with carb. When the engine is cold (after sitting overnight), I start engine and drove. It surges when the throttle is floored and it looses power and regain power again. I put in some seafoam in the tank and some in the carb. When the engine is warmed up, it runs okay. Sometimes but not always, it diesels for 5-10 sec. when the key is shut off. No backfire and I did not hear pinging. A bit of background, this car sat in my garage for months but it ran well before. I refilled the tank from 1/2 full to full mark and dumped seafoam in it. Do u think the carb needs cleaning or what? One more question? the plastic tube for window washer broke where the tube enters the firewall. Does the dash needs to come apart to replace the clear tube to the washer spray nozzle? How hard that job is? Thanks!