85T-REX
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Posts posted by 85T-REX
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The three speed autos don't have an overdrive gear like the 5 speed manuals do. That's why the engine runs faster in an 3AT car vs. a 5MT.
Andy
Right, my wagon runs at 3,000 and my RX runs at 2,400. I was comparing my RX 5MT turbo to jbecker's ea82 5MT turbo. The only reason they would be different is the gearing.
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My 5 speed ea82 turbo, tachs at 3,000 at 55mph. Why is this. It should be better
Check your rear diff and see what number is on it. Mine is a 3.7. Yours may be a 3.9.
My RX turbo 5MT tachs at 2,400 at 55. Must be something with the gearing.
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With the 3AT in my wagon, it tachs at 3,000 at 55. That's the same as all of my 4MT d/r old gens. At 200K, it rides very smooth at highway speeds and always shifts good as long as it's maintained well. Vibration usually isn't due to the tranny. More than likely it's somewhere else in the drivetrain.
If this one is a 4wd, it's probably worth about $2k. If not, $300. Maybe up to $1,000 depending on overall condition. I'm a big fan of sedan's and this should be a really nice one.
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You are right about the manifold vacuum. That was while driving.
5500 is where it shifted. Darn 3AT.
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You should difinately check the acc. pump first. Just look down the carb, past the choke plate, you should see a small tube sticking out from the float bowl side in front of the primary venturi. This is where the fuel comes from the acc. pump. When you open the throttle, you should see fuel spraying into the carb. (Best to do this with the engine off.)
If no feul, that's your problem. It's an easy fix unless the pump cylinder wall needs honed. It's a little tricky but basically loosen the top of the carb and carefully lift it up, while being careful not to damage the gasket, until you can get the acc. pump shaft out. There will be a spring under it holding a small ball at the bottom. Check those and replace if you have them. (As in a rebuild kit.) Then put the new acc. pump shaft in and set the carb top back down and hook it all back up and you should be good to go.
I did that to my wagon a couple years ago and it's still running great.
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You are wrong. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see for yourself. "Ported" vacuum means the port is right below the venturi in the carb, thus reversing (basically) the manifold vacuum curve. What you describe is manifold vacuum. This is a common misconception and I've had this argument with others on here before. Take a look at my post count - I know of what I speak with regard to EA series distributors and carbs.
Again - ported vacuum (called for by the EA distributor design) rises with engine speed and throttle position.
More specifically, and to clarify the distinction, there is a difference between the vacuum produced by the engine, and the ported vacuum SUPPLY on the carb which is entirely artificial in nature. It's produced by the difference in pressure between the two ends of the venturi in the carb. So while you are correct that there is no ENGINE vacuum at full throttle, there is PORTED vacuum at full throttle. Just as there is tons of engine vacuum at closed throttle, and no ported vacuum. It's reversed, and it's designed that way on purpose.
GD
Well, it took me a while to find all the pieces to try this so I apologize for the late post. I hooked up a vacuum gauge to my Hitachi and this is what I found:
No throttle - 0 vac.
Cracked throttle - 20 vac.
Full throttle - 0 vac. all the way up to 5500 rpm.
This is exactly how ported vacuum is supposed to work. The venturi mentioned is for the fuel siphoning. The faster the air passes through the venturi, the more fuel is pulled into the throttle body. That's how a venturi works.
I hope this clears up any confusion on this issue.
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Bump for Sunday.
Where are all of the central Pa. Subbie nuts???
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I'll be there. See you Sunday.
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The 4WD clutch pack will wear out pretty quick running in RWD. It's only made to assist the front. I wore mine out when a front axle popped out but it was a cheap and easy fix.
If you like your 3at, keep it serviced and it will be just fine. Even for a little rompin'.
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I believe they unscrew so replacing it should be easy. That should take care of the problem being able to pull it all the way back.
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Did you try pulling on the button to make sure it was all the way out? The other thing you could try is to "flick" the button by pushing it in and letting it spring back out full force. Other than that it would more than likely need to come apart.
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You're on your way to being a Certified Suby Mechanic.
Good job!
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Did you need to put a fuse in for the dash switch to light up? Are you sure the servo has power?
If so, the only thing I can think of is the speed sensor signal not being picked up properly.
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hey, don't get into semantics again...
Just stating the fact.
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and THAT'S my point.........
It's more like your opinion. And you're entitled to it.
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my gl sags in the back something fierce. but that may have something to with the fact i am carrying 150 lbs of stereo equipment. also the wheels i have rub i had to do the rolling of the rear wheel wells. still rubs if hit a bump just right. and also the shock are showing oil on the shaft.
i have an 86 awd wagon parts car. has anyone used those type of rear springs on a sedan and if so are there ill affects on ride. :-\
The rear wagon struts are around 1-1/2" taller than the sedan strut. I put them on my RX for the winter. In my photos is a pic of the car with the wagon struts on it. They are adjusted to the highest position. Great ground clearance for stock suspension and the ride was the same. Corners wern't quite as tight but no problems with the ride.
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You are wrong. Hook up a vacuum gauge and see for yourself. "Ported" vacuum means the port is right below the venturi in the carb, thus reversing (basically) the manifold vacuum curve. What you describe is manifold vacuum. This is a common misconception and I've had this argument with others on here before. Take a look at my post count - I know of what I speak with regard to EA series distributors and carbs.
Again - ported vacuum (called for by the EA distributor design) rises with engine speed and throttle position.
More specifically, and to clarify the distinction, there is a difference between the vacuum produced by the engine, and the ported vacuum SUPPLY on the carb which is entirely artificial in nature. It's produced by the difference in pressure between the two ends of the venturi in the carb. So while you are correct that there is no ENGINE vacuum at full throttle, there is PORTED vacuum at full throttle. Just as there is tons of engine vacuum at closed throttle, and no ported vacuum. It's reversed, and it's designed that way on purpose.
GD
Has anyone tried this? I don't think post count has anything to do with it. I can't find any info that supports his argument. Not that it really matters, just curious. I'm only going by what I know and have done myself in order to help cd45.
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Actually your Brat would run okay. The vacuum advance only works when first opening the throttle. After that, and the rpm's are up, the centrifugal advance does the rest so you can plug the vac line and the most it will do is stumble a little when you take off.
cd45,
Try this and you will see for yourself how it runs.
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That is incorrect. Full advance will never be achieved without the vacuum can. Vacuum supply to the advance pot is "ported" and rises with increased throttle posistion and engine speed. Max advance is split between the vacuum and centrifugal units and will max out around 15 degrees without the vacuum, and around 25 with it.
GD
Yes what I wrote is correct. The port is just above the upper half of the throttle plate. When the throttle is first opened, the vacuum is pulled through that port but as the throttle plate opens further, less and less vacuum is pulled through the port. At full throttle, there is 0 vaccuum so how could it still be working? It's all up to the centrifugal at the higher rpm's.
I've tested it all with a timing light and that's how I know it's correct.
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What would happen if I put the old coil back in, and then plugged the end of the vacuum advance? Would the car run right? Would my mileage suffer? I have no idea.
Actually your Brat would run okay. The vacuum advance only works when first opening the throttle. After that, and the rpm's are up, the centrifugal advance does the rest so you can plug the vac line and the most it will do is stumble a little when you take off.
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In the mean time, what should I do? I'm sure I can make it home no problems, but should I hook up a batt charger overnight? I'm going to end up taking the car to get a new battery once I have the new alt.
Also, I've never messed with an alternator before, anything I should know before attempting an alternator swap?
Thanks in advance for any and all advice.
eag
Put a 1 or 2 amp charge rate on overnight and make sure it has a full charge when you put in the new alt. Your battery should be okay unless it's really old.
I've never replaced an alt on a new gen so not sure about the tensioner. Should be an easy swap though.
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Sedan all the way!
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I believe it's underneath, near the p/s rear wheel and fuel tank. There's nothing covering it so you will see it pretty easily.
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Your cams may be 180 from each other but what direction are they pointing when the flywheel is at 0deg tdc?
'85 Brat Front Height Adjusters
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Cranking the front up shouldn't make the tires wear bad and shouldn't change the ride except make corners feel a little different. And I do mean only a little.
I did that to my RX every winter and never had a problem. Give it a try.
You do want to make sure your struts match though. At least your aftermarket has adjusters. The aftermarkets a p/o put on my wagon don't have any adjustment at all.:-\