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P K

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Posts posted by P K

  1. Hello All,

    My 1993 SS, 5-speed has a whine coming from the front diff - it is speed related, not rpm. It also appears to be heating up (trans/diff area) as I smell hot from the engine bay; engine is fine, temp gauge right in the middle.

     

    I suspect I need a new trans, but this is an EJ22T 5-speed, so it's gonna be a rare find. My gears are fine, shift great, and very quiet, only 113K miles on vehicle. I would prefer to replace just the diff, not the trans, so my questions:

     

    1. Has anyone swapped out a front diff unit as a whole, without worrying about lash, etc versus replacing trans?

     

    2. Are Subaru diffs standard lego parts, and I just need to find a matching 3.90?

     

    Thanks in advance, PK

  2. I have a 2001 Outback H6, and IMO the 28" tires will not fit - they will hit the coil spring perch. There is only room for about an extra 1/4" of profile over stock. I was going to lift mine 2" (and still may for approach/departure angles), but the struts limit the tire tallness - I will probably go with 215/65/16, which are 27.0" versus the stock 225/60/16 which are 26.7" - whoopee.

  3. Hello All,

    I know this has been done before, (Chef Tim for one).

    I have a pristine Loyale... except for the EA82 POS, and want to install an EA81 for a reliable DD. (I don't care about the power loss, nor EJ22 popularity, as I have other toys to satify cravings)

     

    I read that the EA82 SPFI manifold will bolt to the EA81 as well. Would I be able to install an EA81 longblock, and hook up all the fuel (manifold) and emission equipment, catalytic Y-pipe, etc from the Loyale to pass smog*?

     

    * Basically > only the block would be changed, keeping the fuel injection, egr, emission hoses, etc etc etc.

    Plausible? Problems?

     

    thanks, P K

  4. I have an 01 LLB and the stock stereo with six speakers ain't too shabby, but I installed the factory Subaru subwoofer too (just plugs into harness and mounts under the passenger seat). Rocks just fine!

     

    The H6 is THE motor of choice.

    Quiet, powerful, no timing belts, no headgasket ills. In my 25K+ miles> 21 mpg combined and 24 fwy.

     

    Cold climate also has heated windshield for wipers.

  5. Actually, I have just replaced my entire rack.

     

    It seemed like it was on the left tie-rod. Just like the symptoms above. And usually, a new tie-rod is the solution.

     

    However, closer inspection revealed that the bearing inside the rack housing was allowing movement at the tire rod. No play on the other side.

     

     

    OUCH! A new rack is an expensive item :eek:

     

     

    Thanks all for the advice. What Setright says here is my main concern. When looking at a new inner tie rod, I do not see where the play comes from that a new one will eliminate, and fear a rack bearing may indeed be the culprit. Any other follow on comments to this before I open it up? thanx

  6. World famous Subaru gurus,

    What all goes wrong in the steering rack. I have both front wheels off the ground in my 2001 Outback H6 w/auto trans, and can move the right wheel back and forth an inch of play, with a definite clunk eminating from the inner tie rod area. The outer tie rod is tight. The left wheel does not have any play, nor clunk.

     

    1. Is it definitely an inner tie rod... or is there something else to be concerned with the steering rack?

     

    2. I know I need a special tool to remove inner tie rods. Is it a tough job?

     

    Thanks, PK

  7. Thanks Gary - I'm with you... logically (on paper) it should work. I guess I just need to talk it out. Drill the flywheel to mate to the EJ and the TC just bolts up the same and EA trans slips in the same depths?

     

    (If I get a few more concurrences, then others can feel free to berate me for the 3AT follies) :eek:

  8. Hello All,

    First a qualifyer - I know that I should do a 5 speed swap, granted - but I want to explore something, so please I am only looking for the solution to:

     

    I have Scott's EJ-EA Adapter. Will it work putting an EJ motor to an EA automatic transmission (3AT)?

     

    Plain and simple. I know the 1/2" plate is just right for the EA clutch and 5 speed... but is it right for an EA torque converter and auto trans?

     

    thanks in advance, r/PK

  9. Hello All,

    You'd think I should know this - but I don't for sure.

    So I need the great USMB collective to assimilate:

     

    For the 1998 to 2002 Imprezas and Foresters - are the lift kits identical?

    Not just the struts, but the entire subframe, trans, diff, etc blocks package.

     

    Specifically, I have a 50mm Scorpion kit for Forester - will it fit same the year Impreza?

     

    thanks in advance, r/ PK

  10. Hola Marcelo,

    Welcome to the best Subaru resource on the net.

    Lifted Brats are very nice, especially the extreme ones like yours.

     

    My ex will be in Bolivia on Saturday, and I have always wanted to visit Valparaiso and Vina del Mar.

     

    I live in San Diego, California, which is about 32 degrees north of equator. Valparaiso is about 32 degrees south of equator, so both being right on the Pacific ocean, I would expect the climate to be the same. Just different beautiful people and food :)

     

    Anyways - welcome ! y su inglés es bueno!

     

    r/ Patricio

  11. Too big without MAJOR surgery, period, sorry.

     

    Even with a 4" lift, and trimming fenders, it's still gonna hit the floorboards when turning. Prolly no power steering - so that's a wrestling match you might lose.

     

    Your 1982, unless it's been changed, will have the smaller flywheel and clutch, and with large tires will be smoked quickly.

     

    Most will agree 26-27" is best to still have some drivability, and 28" is a stretch.

     

    Sorry to be so blunt, but 30" is just gonzo for a Sube, and that 73 hp will not cope... except enough to break axles before spinning large tires.

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