Crabman

Cool! I hope this fixes it for you. Start it up, pry off that little rubber cap on the valve, carefully, it's probably dry as heck. There is the tiniest little adjustment screw inside. I'd go a half turn counterclockwise. I knew that I had fixed the problem immediately, but I had to readjust adjust all the other stuff that I monkeyed around with (idle speed screw, mixture screw, timing, etc) while I was trouble shooting this problem. But now she just purrs. It's beautiful. Let me know how it goes! Crabman

No picture but its not hard to find on these simple engines if you have one. Follow the vacuum lines. I have seen at least one other thread here of someone that upgraded to a more powerful ignition coil and also developed strange idle problems. I couldn't believe it when I turned this tiny little screw a quarter turn (counterclockwise) and then just like that the problem went away. Of course I had to readjust my idle speed screw since I had backed the screw all the way out, but whatever. As stated in my thread, the biggest clue for me was this constant hissing sound coming from the carb when running. You can hear it best when you remove the air cleaner lid. Do you have the Idiots Guide book for old soobs? It has good info on trouble shooting. I never would have found it if it weren't for that book. Let me know what I can do to help.

Hey Ratindahat, I wanted to let you know that I just fixed my high idle problem on my '79 brat (EA71). I don't know if it relates to your soob. But after I upgraded the ignition system, it would idle too high even if I backed the idle speed screw all the way out. For more details check out my one man thread "Mysterious Idle Problem" in the historic forum. I finally found that the problem was related to the vacuum control valve, which is part of the coasting bypass system. I do not know if your engine is equipped with one or not. If so, let me know. I could walk you through it. A very simple adjustment made her run smooth as silk. My vacuum control valve is bolted to the left side of the intake manifold and has a small rubber cap and some hose connections. Heck by now, maybe you've resolved to just weberize it. Crabman

For informational purpose, I wanted to update this thread with what I found. Believe it or not, it took the smallest counterclockwise turn of the adjusting screw in the vacuum control valve to get her to return to idle properly. Now she is very well tuned, and returns to idle perfectly. The biggest clue was that during the high idle a non-stop hissing sound was coming from the carb. And I remembered reading about this hissing sound in the Idiots Guide, which pointed me to the vacuum control valve (a.k.a. decel valve). Now I am going to speculate here, so someone out there stop me if I am way off base. But you know this idle problem didn't happen until I upgraded the ignition system with an MSD 6A, Accel Super Coil, new 8 mm wires and plugs. Basically replacing the whole ignition system. Is it reasonable for me to postulate that the engine is running so much more efficiently now that it actually creates a stronger vacuum which resulted in the need to adjust the vacuum control valve? Damn, I'm glad I fixed this. I didn't know what was going on, I was considering rebuilding the car, or putting the old ignition system back on. Crabman

If you figure out the idle problem let me know. I'm having a similar one myself, but its on a '79 Brat. I'm pretty sure that its coming down to some kind of intermittent vacuum leak. All the hoses are stiff and brittle. I haven't had a chance to replace them yet, but I'm pretty sure that's it.

Update - I found a disconnected vac hose at the base of the carb, and she seems to be running good now. I'll keep everyone posted,...

Hi All, Well I'm still in the process of getting my '79 brat legal. I just finished installing an ignition system upgrade, then I began to tune the carb to get it within the idle speed limit and that's when this problem began. You know how when you first start your old soob up, she revvs pretty high for a while. Then, you tap the gas pedal, and the the revvs fall down to that nice low idle? Mine's not doing that anymore. I start it up, she revvs high and keeps revving high after its warm and I tap the accelerator pedal. I've backed the idle speed screw all the way out - no change. But here's the kicker. When I'm at a stop sign, if I keep my foot on the brake and let the clutch out to just where it begins to catch, simulating the car under heavy load, the idle speed will fall down to where it should be (900), and then stay there when I push the clutch in. As soon as I give it some gas however, the idle speed will go too high again (~2000 or so). I've think I've got it timed right, so I don't think thats the problem. And then when I take her for a drive she runs really nice, all except for that idle problem. And of course if my idle speed is too high, I'll never pass smog. Is there some kind of gizmo that causes the car to idle after you tap the accelerator pedal? If so, I think this may be malfunctioning. All ideas and help are very appreciated. Thank you, Crabman

Dear lord that is a beautiful thing that you have created! You absolutely must attach more pics. I like to think that if I had the extra time and money I would undertake an awesome project such as yours. Pure beauty.

Hey Subieguy and Todd! Todd - Thanks for the stuff again. I wouldn't say that my floor is 'all rusted out' where the pedal goes. But there is some rust and definitely enough to confuse me about how to mount the pedal. I had the distinct impression that there were two threaded studs that came up from the floor to mount the pedal, but it sounds like what I am looking at are the remnants of some broken rivets? I will clean up the area and re-rivet as you advised. I don't know why rivets didn't occur to me before. Thanks for the help Subieguy and Todd

Thanks for the help everyone. I figure I will just go to the dealer to get a set. Darnit. I saw the beveled side of the axle, but did not notice if there was a beveled side to the trans shaft. Guess I will have to taker her apart again to and make sure that they are lined up correctly before putting the new pins in. Hey one more question. I hate to admit that I wound up using zip ties to secure the CV boot because I didn't have any clamps on hand. Do I need to pick up subaru clamps, or can I get away with hose clamps from the hardware store? Thanks everyone, Crabman

Hey fellas. What kind of hardware is used to mount the side view mirrors on the Gen 1 Brat? I'm trying to get my '79 ready for the state inspection, since I bought it outta state. And I gotta get at least the left mirror on I figure. If you've got a picture, that'd be grand. Looks almost like sheet metal screws would hold it on, but it must be nutted on the other side? I can't figure it. While I'm posting, if anyone has an extra right mirror, I'd love to take it off your hands. And you know what? One more question. I just bought a used gas pedal for the brat, but when I went to install it tonight, I realized that the floor board mounts for it were rusted and broke, making the pedal too flimsy to use on the lever. It just slides right off. Does anybody have a recommendation for an aftermarket pedal that will attach to the lever? As always I appreciate your help very much! Crabman

That looks like a real nice BRAT and a fun project!!! Congrats on the new addition.

Hi All, I need a recommendation for the proper size roll pin to get for the inner CV joint? And also where to buy? I spent the better part of yesterday replacing an inner CV boot on my Brat. It's always slow going on this car. Every other bolt I loosen seems to break, then its off to the hardware store. Anyway, the roll pin broke though I managed to get it out of the axle. So off to the hardware store again for a new one. They called 'em 'tension pins', and I bought one for 39c that I assumed was the right size, 1/4 x 2 inches. The other diameters were definitely too small or too big. But for the life of me, it wouldn't go into the shaft. I know that everything was aligned well, and I got it started, but alas it is only partially through, and more hammering has just flattened out the top of the pin. Suggestions Please? As always, I truly appreciate the help. Crabman

Thanks Subieguy. I have seen a new blower on ebay. But I am pretty sure that is not the case. I am eventually going to have to pull it apart to find the problem. I will definitely check that resistor.

Yes, the sound that the blower motor makes seems to correspond with the increasing fan speeds. It's been my hunch that it is a cable or some kind of door or flap. Thanks for the tip Leeroy. When I have a chance, I am going to pull it the console apart and investigate further. Thanks for your help everyone. Crabman

Thanks for that piece of knowledge. I did not know that, but I don't really have a breeze coming through any of the vents, including the two centers. And this is not an AC car either.

You know I think I am just going to have to take the dash/console apart to really figure it out but I thought I'd ask your opinions first before getting knee deep in it. When I turn the fan all the way up in my 79 Brat, I just get the slightest breeze coming out of the vents. It just seems way too light. I can hear the fan when I turn it on, which indicates to me that the blower motor is OK. I've also checked those plastic hoses that are really easy to get to , and they all seem to be connected properly. So what else could it be that is failing here guys? Crabman

Well I had to post. I'm sorry to have such an ambiguous opinion but it really depends on what the owner has in mind for it. If you want a museum piece, something that mostly sits in the garage, and when you do take it out you worry about every little nick or scratch, by all means go for the stock restoration. If you want to enjoy driving your old soob on a daily basis, then I say its gotta be a mix of stock, modification, and performance upgrades. In the end, the modified soob will probably be the one that lasts on the road the longest. The latter is what I've for in mind for my 79 brat. It will have mostly an original look, but a couple of performance mods under the hood. Cheers All, Crabman

Hi all. I'm feeling alot better about this. I actually talked to a smog technician today. He told me that the emission limits for the brat are set based on an 'average' of what that year, make, and model have been have been yielding over the years. I had some serious misconceptions about what it was going to take to get her to pass. I do have a couple of extra hoops to jump through because the car is from another state. It needs to pass an inspection, not a smog inspection per se, but just an overall inspection. I am sure that I will need side-view mirrors to pass this. Which now she does not have. Anyway, thanks everyone! I am relatively sure that she'll pass with a little work. I do need to clean out the EGR pipe. It seems like its clogged, as when I activiate the EGR valve she will not stumble and die. I'll post the results from the pre-test when I've got them! Cheers, Crabman

OK thanks Kostamojen. I have a clear understanding now. She's always run pretty good, no smoke, but an occasional backfire. I am going to tune her up real good this weekend. Get her solid and then get that smog pretest. Thanks for all the advice.

Thanks Renman and Kostamojen. I am learning alot here. I was under the impression that all cars, despite year or how they were originally equipped, were held to one single strict emission limit in California. But it sounds like this is not the case? It sounds like there are different emission limits depending on the year your car was made and how it was equipped? If someone can clarify this for me, I would be very appreciative. If this is true, I think after a little tune-up I will be in pretty good standing. The engine is completely stock, I have all the original emission equip. I was going to take my time getting this brat on the road, but my daily driver just had a really bad day and now the timeline is accelerated. I need to get the brat street legal asap. My last question. Should I buy this stock exhaust for $130, or should I take it to a muffler shop? All opinions are welcome. Thank you in advance. Crabman

Hey Everyone. Well I got my 'halfway' papers at the DMV and I still need to smog my '79 Brat amongst many other things before its legal. It needs a new exhaust, and I've had the good fortune of locating an OEM exhaust, the pipe and muffler from the y-pipe back. It's a pretty good deal, but pricey shipping, altogether it comes to around $135. Anyways, I figure, since I need to hang a new exhaust on there, I might as well stick an aftermarket cat ($75) on as well, even though the car didn't come with one stock, it can only help me pass smog since california limits are so strict. But in order to do that, I'd have to have someone do some cutting and welding, since I can't weld, and the OEM exhaust is one piece from the y-pipe back. I haven't been to a muffler shop in a while, So, here finally is my question. What would you do fellas? Should I spring for the stock exhaust and an aftermarket cat, and bring that stuff to the exhaust shop tell them to cut and weld and make it work, or would I be better off price-wise taking the brat to the shop and asking them to fabricate something with a cat? I'll be outta town for the weekend, but I'm really looking forward to getting home and seeing everyone's advice. Thanks in advance, Crabman

I am new to the board, but firmly in the camp that you have already done a great service by rescuing this beaut from being scrap metal. I dig the paint scheme by the way. Keep up the good work!

Thanks Caboo, I bought it. I hope I won't need to use them all

PS. I love the way those pugs look on it. How did you get the pugs so clean?? I have three of that style on my brat. I am looking for a fourth.