j2coe
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Posts posted by j2coe
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sanded and rethreaded the grounds and connections when I did the voltage drops just in case, but it didn't help.
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95 legacy, had alternator and battery tested, both good out of vehicle. in vehicle no charge going to battery. it starts and runs fine (untill the battery runs out of juice) been through the wiring harness and can't find any opens or bad fuses. voltage drop is 0.3 or less both directions. the wiring diagrams I can find show the wires on the plug going through the ignition switch but mine show voltage all the time. the white or yellow one battery voltage and the black one .3 or something ( forget exactly at the moment) Haven't been able to find any information on if these should be hot with out the key or what voltage the black wire should have. any info or other ideas would be appreciated. (I tried two other used alternators and got the same result 12.** voltage same as battery and drops as it runs)
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P0171 got it again, still says L bank lean also on the code reader. replaced the front O2 sensor which had been shorting when I first got the car from exposed wires and looks dinged on one side so I don't expect it was in very good shape. got the code right after I fired it up after the swap. we'll see if it comes back again. still need to test pressure on the fuel system.
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we're back! we're back! we're back!
oooh sweet donuts, I mean forum. Never leave us again. -
looks like the 2 plugs on the lighter/outlet were reversed, didn't know you could do that. seems to work with them switched back around. I suppose that clears up the question of any other short to the stereo. just need a new stereo without a fried volume control.
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still working out kinks in a 1999 leg OB. it has an aftermarket stereo put in by the previous owner self installed I would guess since the harness was chopped. all the wires seem to match according to the wiring diagram I didn't check the polarity of the speakers since it's probably irrelivant. any way I had my ipod plugged in to the aux port -worked fine, but the charge was getting low so I plugged in the charger, after a horrible screeching noise the chargeris dead. won't work any more in any other vehicle in a good socket but will light up. the socket registers 12 volts with a meter but nothing plugged in to it will light up. that I really don't get. anyone seen anything like this? Even if I install a new stereo I would guess the same thing could happen again unless I can figure out what's up with the lighter/outlet
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service manuel I found doesn't even show the fuel pressure regulator(s) any where in the fuel injection system. or any where else I could think to look. what a PITA. haven't found a Haynes for these either.
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I believe it was p0173. I didn't know there were separate regulators for the 2 sides. since it isn't giving a code for an injector but the left bank that would make more sense. I'll check the service manual for the regulators and see what I can find out. or if it trips again today
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I keep getting a check engine light with a code that comes back Left bank lean. would that be an injector issue or an electronic signal issue or something with the fuel rail? or something else entirely? It has been less frequent a couple weeks since the last time after I ran a can of seafoam and a new fuel filter. but it came back today.
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sits- oil drains from chanels, 50 feet up and down the drive with an hour between not enough time to build pressure and circulate so by the end oil pump warm and some what starved? then sits over night takes a little while to get oil back to the pump?
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see if you can take it for a test drive to a local parts store. lots of them will test a check engine for free and tell you what code(s) are present.
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sorry spent the afternoon in the ER with a kidney stone. realigned the marks once more this morning before I was interupted but haven't had the chance to put everything back together. the crank sprocket, the geared thing that drives the timing belt from the shaft and has the 6 things sticking out around the back of it 1 of which has the timing mark for the timing belt, yes that's the one I used. I know
I feel like someone who's never changed a timing belt, just never done a 2.5 DOHC so there are more things to line up and teeth to count. didn't move any of the cams unless they can strip under the nuts that hold them and turn. OBDII doesn't show any codes -
I've checked the procedure over and over, I keep counting the teeth to make sure it's right, make sure I start at TDC for #1 with a compression tester then take the pully off and advance to the mark on the tab behind the gear which lined up all of the others
apart from the diagram having the tooth count pictures backwards so the one that has 54.5 showes groove to groove instead of groove to peak and the the opposite for 51 I can't find anything wrong with what I did appart from realigning things when they moved that I already described in the original post. -
stuck a compression tester on getting 30 on the L bank on each cylinder with a hand cranked cycle. got 45 on #1. not sure I should do a proper compression test but I suppose the damage is done if it has been. cranking it again won't do more.
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just replaced timing belt on 1999 2.5 DOHC. as expected the valve springs rotated the drivers side bank out of position but never at the same time. I carefully put them back 1 at a time. intake clockwise exhaust counter. double checked the tooth counts. when started it goes about 20 seconds and sputters and dies. can they bend the valves just with the spring pressure? anything else I messed up?
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finally came loose.
break spoon wouldnt lock in even holding it it clicked past like a card in bike spokes. charged the battery all afternoon and reconnected #1 plug I guess it needs the full kick of the engine and still took 3 more tries to break loose. one stuborn @%$*#$ -
might have to try getting one nothing else is working.
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never had the breaker bar- turn the starter method fail but this 1999 2.5 wont budge. car started fine so I thought it had enough juice before pulling #1 to find TDC. just stops dead when I hit the key, maybe battery doesn't have enough crank for that much torque? can't find the "right" tool any where, working on a spanner now but I thought I'd see if there were any other tricks since the fail safe finally did.
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just got back with a nice used rack, has good tie rods already so that will help, picked up exhaust gaskets too so I can drop it. if i can just find my deep creep to loosen the nuts so I can staret taking things apart
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I always wondered if you couldn't do something like that with the scoop. same kind of thing with the intercoolers but air intake. I guess that isn't a 2.5 though no scoop.
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Just making sure I'm describing it right. The u pull just crushed the only one the right year range. but there's a subaru salvage a mile from me who has some and they probably still have the tie rods on them I'll call when he opens.... unless he used a pickle fork:confused:
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why can't we just buy new smoke that we can put in since nothing electrical will work once you let the smoke out of it?
sure would have saved me some money a couple times. -
it isnt the tie rod end with the knuckne that's bad. you turn the steering and (since the boot is destroted you can see where it goes into the rack) that is where it is all rusted up and the outer shaft slides ovewr it before there is any movement to the wheel. I don'think I described it right the first time. I hoped it could just be pulled sideways without dropping the exhaust but didn't really think so :-\
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just got a 1999 outback really bad slop in steering. put it up on stands and one of the steering rack boots is torn. when pulled back you can see where the tie rod goes into the next piece is crudded up with rust. there's also at least 1/2 inch the outer part slides over the rod end before it starts moving it. I'm thinking new rack (or used whatever) anybody else? couldn't feel any other play but those seem so loose it's hard to tell.
no charge from alternator
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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that's what i said:D, I just can't figure out why. big white has battery voltage, plug white or yellow has battery voltage (hot even without key on) black wire on plug no/.3? volts. everything shows no open that i can tell from resistance but I can't tell if or what could be shorted since there is no drain when it isn't running and I can't find specs on what it should read. I don't think the plug should test hot without the key from the diagrams I can find. or if the ecu isn't sending the signal for it to run why is it getting voltage through the plug wire? no blown fuses, no high readings on voltage drop but i don't really know what the wires on the plug should be doing.