j2coe
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Posts posted by j2coe
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OOH! service manual
that should help. thanks for the link I'll have a look. thanks again cougar, the debugging can now begin. -
SHE LIVES!
timed and purring away. Many thanks for the help cougar. ECU and the distributer was in 180 backwards. now its standard subaru, oil leaks and trouble codes. ran it around the block seemed to go just fine. now it's on to the smaller details but maybe tomorrow. -
open circuit just means it isn't connecting or isn't grounding. like when you wiggled the wires and it worked it "closed" or connected the circuit. sorry I don't know the parts of your car better this might help with cougars earlier note.
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well power on- 12v both sides of the coil, do I try to start it and see if I let the smoke out of the ECU? they can only put it in at the factory and it would be buy another ECU if I didn't. catch everything else.
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turned the range up on the meter, the white and yellow actually reads 1080 ohms with the new ECU not open, and 140 ohms with the old ECU plugged in.
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well with the battery disconnected and just measuring resistance everything measured the same from the old to the new ECU except the yellow lead from the igniter to the ECU, 148 OHM on the old, open on the new. sounds like something cooked in the ECU. question is was fixing the fuasble link and such enough to keep it from frying the new one or do I need to keep looking? this third wire from the alternator bugs me since it doesnt go through the fusable links. for safety I may tie it in after the fusable links for now. then
power and recheck the voltage? Ugh. I'll cross reference my various diagrams again for hints and see if theres anything else promising with this new development. thanks for the good advice so far. -
See if you can get the key from her. number one you can see if it starts. might be another thing to consider in the purchace any way. I have one thats a bit twitchy. have to run the engine a little to mesh the gears sometimes. if there's a pull it your self salvage lot you can get a tranny really cheap, the lot here charged $60 for one a year or so ago last time I checked.
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I've been looking but none of thew book stores even list a naynes manual for the XT6, just the 1600, 1800 which I already have. from the 1800 MPFI diagram which is the closest I can get, the yellow wire on the L side of the coil is the one that goes to the ECU, if the XT6 is the same, that would be consistant with the ECU problem since that is the side that is reading 6V instead of 11V.
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according to the wiring diagram at the fuseable link in the main fuse box its a yellow wire, still yellow at the ignition relay, comes out the otherside of the ignition relay yellow and red and splits and is at two pins and is yellow and red at the ECU. good luck.
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I just picked up a new (used) ECU yesterday. any way to check out the rest of the possibly messed up connections first? the only partial wiring diagram I found for an XT6 only has 2 white wires coming off the alternator and none of them are supposed to bypass the fusable link box. this has a third and it routs up toward the fire wall some where and like I said before they seem to have opened up if not spliced someother things. ECU is kind of pricy for throw away test equipment if there are other grounding issues. I just can't find a wiring diagram for these XT6s any where
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apparently the igniter on the coil bracket is grounding to the frame. when it is unscrewed I get 12 volts at both terminals, screwed to the frame as before 11, and 6,
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well maybe not any more. gave it another try, now its 11v and 6v just like the other one and hot enough to fry and egg.
do these igniters ground through the bracket also? it would save time testing them if I didnt have to screw it to the frame every time. apparently theres a power problem with the ignition switch or some where else, voltage was 12v untill I tried to start it again.
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yeah I've got another one that I tried yesterday that reads 12v on both sides so it's OK.
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it reads 11v on the positive but only 6v on the negative, I'll try a couple of the other igniters and see what the readings are with those. there isn't anything else on this crank angle dist. just the 4 wire hook up for the internal electronics.
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I had a set if the old steel 8 spokes sand blasted and powder coated gloss black. they looked pretty nice. I don't have any pics though.
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just got an XT6 to add to my collection of subarus. great deal due to an electrical problem. the people who owned it made a mess. I have a box of 6 igniters, 3 coils, 2 crank angle sensor distributers from them with the car, and no spark. I replaced the obviously messed up things the crappy plugs, old wires, worn out cap, and replaced the crank angle so the ECU no longer gives the code for no crank angle signal. scrapped the junk yard coils for a new one. still no spark. they had the fusable links wrong and so the one for the ignition was a 1.25 amp instead of the 0.5 so they may have fried the ECU they said they smoked a couple fusable links. I can replace that. they also replaced the fusable link box and I'm not sure anything else didn't get changed since I can't find a wiring diagram or any thing else that could be wrong. So I want to be sure I've fixed everything else so I don't fry another ECU with something they messed up. I'm reading voltage at the coil. I have a couple other codes to fix but I dont think they should stop it from starting. I can't get information on the vehicle speed sensor to test or replace though so I don't know if that could do it.
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cool! the links in the post before mine didnt work, but yours did that's great, maybe someone will have an insight into this ignition problem. thanks!
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I've been yrying to find out myself according to the thread it lost its host or the host has the rights or something to that effect. I don't really know how how web hosting works but the gist of it was its been gone for a while and doesn't seem to be coming back any time soon.
which sucks since I just got an XT6 and have a problem I can't seem to figure out.
Hi,Do you guys know what happened to the xt6.net site, hoping it is still around but need to ask if anyone knows the address now, or what is going on with it?? Thanks !
Water In Sealed Headlamp Unit
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Like mike said shouldn't be a sealed beam inb a GL. they should have a lock ring that turns and comes off and then then a bulb that pulls out the back. then drain the water and look for rock holes, cracks or better - just replace the lens fron a scrap yard they're hard to seal I knbow people who've tried :-\