82GLF

I tried it with no luck. It still just turns over with no spark. I have now given up... she bought another car. I'm going to try to sell it for about $200 just to recoup some of the money we put into it. If not, I'll sell the distributor and haul it to the wrecker. Thanks for the idea's guy's!

Okay, new distributor (with module) did not fix it. Also bought another coil and still no spark. Have 12 volts across both terminals of coil with key on (fuse is good). Is there a relay somewhere that would inhibit ignition? That's what it acts like. Tested the wires disconnected from coil... Black/red (hot) gets full 12volts with key on. Yellow/ red (ground) gets 3.46 volts with key on. Does this point to anything??? If so what do I test next?

I would change the oil and inspect the filter and oil for metal.......

Never mind.............it was for 4x4. The right one is $211...... Their computer only listed the one, he had to..... GASP.......pull out the book to find the problem. So, another day to wait...

Okay guys, I could use some of your experience here on this one....PLEASE.... PLEASE My distributor has two electronic pieces inside. I'm assuming one is the pickup coil and the other the control module or amplifier. They sit across from one another and are half moon in shape (to fit inside dist). The wires from the ignition coil run to the first piece and then from that to the other one that I'm assuming is the pickup coil. The distributor that came in today has only one piece, the control module. BUT it (module) looks totally different than mine. It is flat and has two electrical connectors protruding up. It is listed as having an integral pickup coil Just like this one. Otherwise the distributor housing looks the same. If I cut the two wires from the (assuming) amplifier/control module and wire them to these terminals, would this work? Has anyone run into this before?

It's the electronic unit with single line vac advance. Thanks for the offer but I already paid for the dist and just waiting for the new one. Just hope this is the problem. I don't see how it could be anything else...have a new coil, fuses and fusible links are all good. I'll find out in a few hours (can't sleep).

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I tried hotwiring it from the batt the old fashioned way with no luck. Still no fire. I pulled the distributor and am waiting for the new one to come in tomorrow morning. Looking at it......how do you remove the module anyway, just curious. I don't see the two bolts that are supposed to attach it.

Well, it ran good for about a month after disconnecting the condenser but she won't fire again. It MUST have been a fluke. If you don't remember the thread it's located HERE. Now I pretty much know it's the ignition module. I tried to locate a distributor from a wrecker with ZERO luck. The module cost's $140 but a reman distributor with module is $175. If I have to replace the module I might as well get the distributor. (they couldn't have hidden that lockdown bolt any better either) Now the question..... How can I "hot wire" the coil to get spark for testing? About ready to send this Sub for some Scuba diving!

If it still does it as you describe in neutral, I would say wheel bearings. One caveat.......usually you don't have to turn it hard to make it go away.

Yeah, I've heard some of those horror stories...not too long ago either.

ha! I'm still trying to get her to stop calling everything a thingamajig or whatchamacallit!!! All she knows is she has a go peddle and a stop peddle. lol The only thing she's learned is she breaks it, I fix it.

She said it ran a 'couple of days' like that (about 50 miles). I told her she will have to get used to it, then it will get replaced when either she can afford it or she gets stranded. No, my sister has never been too bright about maintaining anything with a motor. She once blew up a lawnmower because she never checked the oil!

Yeah, I told her there's nothing I can do to quiet it down any and that she will need replace it at 'some' point. Ohh......and she won't drive a manual.....

Now that I got my sisters car back on the road (again) with no oil leaks or sounding like a lawn mower..... time to start thinking about the whining diff. This is a '82 GLF 2wd 1.8 A/T. It whines when giving it gas (only when moving) and increases with speed. Let off the gas or shift into neutral and it stops. It leaks gear oil right next to the output shaft above the exhaust (yes it stinks) but not too bad. She let it get way too low before buying gear oil for it. This is when it started whining and hasn't stopped since topping off the diff. How long will it last like this before having to replace the diff?

I was getting about that desperate!.........it was a half dollar sized hole!

Update: Okay, the leak I saw after replacing the valve cover gasket must have been risidual buildup. The leak has stopped ............now if that buildup behind the heat shield would just burn off it won't smoke anymore :-p

Sorry for the late responce guys.... been busy at work. Baja, thanks for the offer but I slipped the old welding hat on and patched her up......nice and quiet agian. The oil leak......... Well, I noticed oil dripping from the valve cover so I replaced it....... Well it's still leaking so I jacked it up and let it run while under it. There are no leaks (now) above the exhuast flange. I did see oil seeping (almost running) from the exhuast flang...the front stud to be exact. Not too sure about the oil pump....it's on the front of the motor (external). Could it be a cracked head? Thinking of pulling that stud out and using some RTV on it... :-<

CHIT! Thanks for the heads up. Guess I'll pull out the Mig. But it may look more like buggers! lol

AHH, thank you Skip! That's what I was hoping.

Thanks NorthWet. Yup, it has an ECU under the column. Weird. There wasn't any oil inside the pipe or the port, thank goodness. I'll do some more looking to see where that oil is coming from. It's just strange how they smelled. I'll post back what I find on the oil leak and how the JB Weld holds up (or not).

I removed the (entire) exhaust from the GLF to repair a hole in the downpipe (the size of a quarter). I'm having to use a metal patch to cover the hole, will JB Weld hold up on the downpipe? Do the flange studs enter an oil passage? This seems to be the source of a hard to locate oil leak. This is a major oil leak that I thought was the pass side valve cover, but after removing the studs I saw they were oil soaked as well as the flange itself. They also had that same smell when you remove a head bolt. Then I noticed there was what appears to be an O2 sensor in the cat. Does this carbed EA81 actually have an O2?? Sorry for all these stupid questions but I don't have a FSM and am flat broke until payday.

ttt Would like to know what that condensor looking thing is that mounts under the coil. I think this was the problem, is that possible?

I removed and cleaned the grounds as well as the coil. There isn't any accessories acting weird either. If that module weren't sooo expensive I would try replacing it, but I can't afford to experiment......yet. Would really like to know what that condensor looking thing is. So far, after leaving it off the coil bracket and straightening the kink out of the wire it seems to have taken care of it. It hasn't died yet and I took it for a short drive yesterday. I hope this has fixed it so I can concentrate on that exhaust leak......the one behind that huge heat shield on the drivers downpipe! (sounds like a lawn mower!)

Thanks for the reply Skip.I checked the pink connector, it's in good shape. Where can I find the fusible link? Last night I changed the coil again with the new one and this time I left the condensor looking thing off the bracket. I noticed the wire was kinked pretty good. The wire is still attached to ground and the hot post of the coil (just not mounted under the coil bracket). What IS this? I have read that it is a noise filter for the radio and have read that it's an amplifier. Whatever it is, can this cause a no spark condition? Right now I have it running. I haven't taken it for a drive yet (afraid to) but it hasn't died yet since. (crossing fingers)