lostinthe202

As a motorcycle rider, these things bother me. A buddy of mine has one in his vovlo wagon. I think it still misses a bit on the driver's side but he insists he can see everything and never checks lanes before changing anymore. I think it leads to a false sense of security. Checking your lanes before you change is good advice. Probably why it's in the driver's manual for each of the 6 states I've lived in:) just my .02

monster jeep?

You could try this site too http://www.car-part.com

Try using the search to look for online parts. There are a few places recommended, but I don't know the URL's off hand. But you should be able to find them pretty easily. Good Luck!

The popular responses for bad mpg is to replace your front 02 sensor with one from a dealer. Also, all the usual stuff like being anal about tire pressure and how you drive. Also, clean out your car, if you're carrying around a bunch of crap in the trunk all the time that can affect mileage too. As for your torque bind, using the FWD fuse is a stop-gap measure. I believe it activates a solenoid in the transmission which will eventually wear out if you keep using it then it will need replacing as well as the stuff that already needs replacing.

Yes, I thought it wasn't a direct relation, but I saw last night on the drive home that I was wrong and corrected myself earlier in the post.

The plot thickens.... I punched your stock and current sizes into a size calculator http://www.1010tires.com/tiresizecalculator.asp and the two sizes are virtually identical. So.... are you sure you got a direct replacement tranny? Are the rpm numbers different then what you remember from your last tranny? What kind of mileage do you get?

I stand corrected (well, sit corrected actually :-p ) I took a look on the way home and it does appear to be a direct relation, learn something new everyday! I was at about 2750rpm for 60mph with stock wheels/tires (205 70 R15) for my '96 2.2L OBW 5spd. Maybe, Evo, you've got non stock tires/wheels?

Naw, it doesn't work like that, speed increase isn't a direct relation to engine rpm. I'm gonna have to check on the way home, sounds low, but maybe it is! Will-

This is what I'm thinking, I've got a '96 OBW 2.2 5spd and I know i'm in the 2000's someplace by 60mph. perhaps I have a diff. tranny? Will-

...Soooo as audiofile suggested, if the OP doesn't want the hitch, why not just unbolt the whole shootin' match and huck it in the trash?...

Don't forget that California has the highest gas prices in the nation because of their tax structure and a 2001 H6 (maybe all years of H6, I'm not sure) is rated for Premium gas which is going for about $4.19 a gallon at best http://www.sanfrangasprices.com/index.aspx?fuel=C I second this, I bought my '96 outback with 120k for $3000 about 2 years ago. It now has 178k (as you can tell I drive A LOT!) and I've done nothing but regular maintenance and this is not an unusual occurrence.

+1

... but keep in mind that coolant has a somewhat oily feel to it so, if you're going to do this, stick your finger in some good coolant so you have a comparison. Also, I've been reading some of your posts and if there is a decent chance that you're going to be moving again soon and not keeping the car you might consider getting an older one that has been cared for instead of spending a bunch on an H6 with all the options that you may end up getting rid of. I see from your posts that you're concerned with rust, but it appears from your posts that you are shopping for a car in California so I really wouldn't worry about rust as being an issue on any car built in the 90's. Good Luck!

There is also full-time 4wd which is different from AWD and 4WD. There was a good post about it in the old gen. forum a few months back if anyone is interested.

How much play are you talking about? Most bolts will wiggle a little until they are tightened down. How do the threads on the bolt look? If they aren't visibly munched, then I would say you're probably fine. What I would expect if the bolt had gotten loose and the pulley was wobbling around, is that it would distort the threads making it hard to remove/install. If it turns out the bolt is too loose, running a tap in won't do any good. A tap will straighten out threads, but it cant make them tighter. I don't know if the threaded end of the crank is hardened. If it is, you won't be able to drill/tap it. If it isn't, then I suggest taking out the radiator so that you can be sure you're drilling and tapping along the axis of the crank so that your new threads will be straight. I'm sorry, I don't know the size of the thread, but I'm sure someone here does. As for the Keyway, you say the keyway on the pulley is shot, how 'bout the keyway on the crank and the key itself? Pics would help if you can take some. Good Luck! Will-

Correct, I do mean gear oil. Sorry I've never owned an auto so tend not to make the distinction in my vernacular. Yeah, I've been doing the add and check thing, I just wanted to speed things up a bit since the gear oil is so thick and I don't know if the marks are a full quart or less then that. Thanks Will-

Great, thanks! Any idea on the dipstick marks? I don't want to over fill and make my seals leak or nuthin. thanks Will-

I can't find my service manual anyplace and I'm changing my tranny fluid. Anyone know the capacity for a '96 OBW 5spd and the quantity between the L and F marks on the dipstick? Thanks!!! Will-

I'll throw my vote in for the pickle fork too since you're not keeping the ball joint. I've never managed to use one without destroying the boot, but since you're replacing, they work better then pounding just on the ball joint 'cause they have a lot of mechanical advantage due to the taper of the fork tongs.

One trick I've seen posted on this forum (I'd love to give credit to the poster but I don't remember the name:confused: ) that I thought sounded good was to put the castle nut on backwards so the "castle" is facing the controller arm and put a jack underneath it and jack away until it pops.

would this be ye old tick o' death? If it is, from what I understand "tick of death" is somewhat of a misnomer as it just requires a priming of the hydraulic lifters or at worst replacement of the lifters. but that's from reading post after post, so I could very well have my facts wrong.

You don't say specifically which transmission you have, but here's a '99 2.5 -> 2.2 swap with a 5spd http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=86372&highlight=2.2+swap EDIT - opps! forgot to say, you could write this member and see which years he used:)

Yeah, that fits. I think it depends on what kind of supply they've got in stock or available.

I got a windshield last fall from Safelite auto glass in Va near DC for $120 in my '96 leg. OB. JohnC suggestion of complaining about the price is a good one, tho I have to say that $120 with a lifetime warranty against leaks was their first offer without me saying a word so I went for it. I did get three or four more quotes but they were all about the same with no warranty.