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zrbrat

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Posts posted by zrbrat

  1. Yeah that's the one. It's rusted bad. Probably couldn't get it past state inspection there. It would never pass here in PA. Wonder how much he paid for it. The dealer was giving us some story about how some guy was willing to pay $1800 for it, if we didn't want it.

     

     

    It's too bad it's rusted out, I would love to have one of those little cars. Right now I'm driving my F-250 diesel, and the cost of fuel for it is killing me....$3.80 per gallon....ouch!!! I guess I'll just have to keep looking.

  2. Bad news. We went to pick up the car today. After a 2 hour drive we found out it's got major rust.

     

    The quarters were all rusty the lip was gone completly. The bottom few inches of the fenders were completly gone. The fenders were just flapping in the breeze, the bottoms weren't connected anymore. The rocker panels under the doors were getting ready to go too.

     

    We backed out of the deal. If anyone wants a rusty hatch for $1500, I'll give you all the info. We kinda wanted to get a nice one.

     

     

     

    This looks like the same car, and for only $2500...:lol:

    http://nh.craigslist.org/car/565225113.html

  3. You should look into using metal adheasive and simply glue the pathes/panels into place. Fusor and Durimix are two brands that come to mind. Then use a metal conditioner to treat any bare metal, DX520 is made by PPG and works well, then use an epoxy primer, PPG's DPLF epoxy works good and it can set for up to 7 days before painting or top-coating. After that you will need to scuff it for top-coat adheasion. Also you should wear gloves when handleing bare metal so the oils and sweat on your skin don't start to rust the metal. Any bare metal should be treated and primed as soon as possible so it doesn't start to rust from the moisture in that's in the air. You also need to sandblast any rust on panels or parts, just grinding it off doesn't get the rust out of the pits.

  4. Could always try one of these. http://www.taser.org/autotaser.html

    But it looks like they have been discontinued. And I really wanted one.

     

    I heard of a similar system that wired into the car and electrified the door handles years ago....

    But it never made it past the lawyers. :mad:

     

     

    It seems to me that criminals are often too protected. I've heard that if you leave your keys in your vehicle and it gets stolen, your insurance company won't cover any damages and you are responseable for whatever damages are caused by the thief. I'm not sure if that applies to just the state I live in or all of them.

    I hope they catch whoever is messing with your car.

  5. I used to drive school bus, I am used to it. :)

     

     

    Oh-boy... I don't think I could handle that job...I'd go nuts.

    On a more serious note, you mentioned an irrigation pump. Do you have a farm or large garden, or just a big @#* water leak in your basement? And as for the generator, how many watts do you need it to produce? My dad owns a small dairy farm and has a 15000 watt...I think... generator for backup. It runs off his tractors pto which puts out about 40hp.

  6. Everyone's pretty cool and helpful here.

     

    And I got basicly booted from NASIOC for posting a pick of my wagon with an old semi exhaust stack under it with the caption "just say no to fartcans" they took offense. I was just kidding.

     

    So this is my understanding home now. :banana:

     

     

    :lol: Aaaahhhh Aaaahhhh........this is just one of MANY reasons why I love this board........peoples sense of humor.....still laughing my @#% off!!!

  7. I had that problem some years back...I'm trying to think...alternator, voltage regulator maybe? Also my volt meter would spike for awhile. Might also want to check the main power wire to the fusible link box under the hood, I assume your vehicle has one but I'm not 100% sure on that.

    BTW my vehicle was a 1985 BRAT. Or maybe it was my '86 BRAT, sorry I can't remember.

  8. I think people got off on the wrong foot here. This is just my opinion: if everyone on this board was a knowledgeable, experienced mechanic they probably wouldn't be asking for help in the first place.

     

    ok4450, welcome to the board. Please understand that getting heated and arguing with people about who's right or wrong may discourage others from asking for help and trying to help. With that aside I hope you will stick around and offer your knowledge to others, after all, it's a team effort and there's strength in numbers.

     

    dhewitt, welcome to the board. Your recruiting tactics are brilliant!:lol:

    I'm also glad to hear your that vehicle is fixed, I hope it treats you well.

     

    I hope we can all get along and enjoy this board. This is just my 2 cents worth.

  9. My Ford F-250 diesel has an engine block heater and so does my Ford Ranger. They are the freeze plug/ heats the engine coolant type. It works great during the winters here in Maine and is a must on any diesel. There is another type I've heard about that replaces your oil dipstick and heats the engine oil, but I haven't used that type. Both are 110v and you can buy a cheap timer to plug them into so you don't have to wake up 2 hours early to plug them in or have plugged in all night.

     

    BTW I have never had one on my Subarus but its a very good idea in these cold states.

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