Anon.II

> I only thought of using the motor out of my Legacy because it is > known good runner, and just had a full reseal/timing job last summer > (only about 18-20K on that), but after a little more thought, > it just seems to make more sense (time wise) to use the parts car motor And now you're back to using the '90? Sounds like you're on your way to success in either case, but I'm just curious as to why you aren't more wanting to keep the '90 running, as it is, and use the parts-car motor which after all is . . . for parts!? What issues leave you not caring so much for losing the use of the '90? (asks me, who is facing '91 issues and in a pay-to-fix vs. discard decision <groan>) Anon.II

> 98 OBW 230K . I am not saying this the right thing to do > but I have been driving around with that light blinking for 2 to 3 years. +1 '91 Legacy L+ wagon 210k : for me, I think that the first such *felt* symptom of this occurred maybe a decade ago; it became more noticeable only later, and I see that "POWER LIGHT FLASHES" in my notes for 2006, and transmission was flushed; it has been highly infrequent over the duration. Sometimes I'd feel it and see the 16flashes after driving a mile to a store, then not feel it on the return; sometimes it will be months between symptoms. Now, I'm looking at an exhaust-system replacement (est. $1,100) prospect, or ... ? --Anon.II

[ chopperbob925, who just joined, unfortunately thought to *join* an old and not obviously related thread rather than start a new one; here, I'll start it for him. ("Transfer Clutch Solenoid" of 2003 was the one he joined.) ] chopperbob925 posts: I have a 1997 Impreza Auto trans. 180k . Problem.. under load in a straight line the car vibarates. Its not the driveline U joints, checked them. Its not a CV axle checked them. I put the FWD fuse in and out and still has the same Viberation. [or 'vibrates', which might sound like "vi-ber-a-tion" under these circumstances ]

Thanks, that's a great, fast listing ! --already have shared it with a buddy (more into working on cars than I). (-;

[in re: 1991 Legacy L+ wgn ] I'm in need of a tail-light assembly, and so far my searches for a used part have failed --NA. And one place had only the wrong side's (driver, not passenger/right), and priced at $75. Which is $100 less than what a local dealer is pricing (not in stock), but the same price as at this site: ( SUBARU-PARTS-DEALER.COM ) http://www.partswebsite.com/subarucatalog/?i=2&make=153&model=2033&year=1991&catid=30201&subcatid=58735&section=137&type=parts ... which makes me wonder about quality/fit. Has anyone dealt with this source, and have some feedback? I have looked at a few other on-line parts sites, and none of them even list tail-light assemblies (or not for my year)! Thanks, --Anon.II

Thanks again. Your quoted price, though, amazes me --esp. tied in with the seemingly arduous extraction to liberate the part : who can do all that and still sell the part for $12?! (Your "Washington" is on the other side from mine (D.C. area), and of the places I've called, I found just one with the wrong side, and @$75.00 (another had a bulb for nearly half the $12).) Which is the same price as the *new* one listed here: http://www.partswebsite.com/subarucatalog/?i=2&make=153&model=2033&year=1991&catid=30201&subcatid=58735&section=137&type=parts So, a question: What's the reputation of this on-line company, "Subaru-Parts-Dealer.com" ? Also, in replacing the assembly, is new sticky tar crap needed, or is the residue from extraction sufficient to hold, along with the two bolts? (Frankly, I'm a bit annoyed at having to replace, as so far as *function* is concerned, my obviously busted lens works fine --white light emits only a little, visible only from a 45deg angle (so, w/right light, the curb). But the law is clear, and even damns a mere crack!) Thanks again, --Anon.II

Thanks. I'd mis-read the info at that parts site and thought there was a separable lens --rather, it was merely separately identified as part of the unit for sale. Okay, I've pinged a couple of junk yards re the part, and await responses. --Anon.II

I need to *fix* my broken (right rear) tail light on a 1991 Legacy L+ wagon. With some boneheaded acts, I managed to crack & break out part of the lens. The lights all work, but in rather brighter-whiter hue than inspection expects. I think I could make do with a LENS vs entire assembly (although some of the amber inner lens is cracked, it shine amber rearwards). I've found one URLink (amongst NAs) for this, I think http://www.partswebsite.com/subarucatalog/?i=2&make=153&model=2033&year=1991&catid=30201&subcatid=58735&section=137&type=parts But in examining the tail light, I don't see any obvious way to remove & replace the lens. (I've only looked at it from the outside.) Advice appreciated ... , thanks, --Anon.II

Ha! I recognize that disintegrated heat-shield corner!! Nice, er, *belt* you put on the waist. I just marveled that mine was holding up sans the two bolts (both corners) at that end, and will have to look into doing some rigging of some sort I guess.

Porcupine73, good photos! How is that photo'd condition, IYHO? --i.e., one can see rusty imperfections, but how much sanding/etc. did you do to that, or is that the workable state (really rough & loose stuff gone) ?! (I confess to having not given much thought to this, but recall that I don't think my pipes were much worse really.) ALSO, again, it seems as though my leak has a direction, which I think is related to the **gasket** --rust, OTOH, is fixed in place on the pipes. So, that suggests some imperfect roundness, IMHO. (i.e., again, the gasket I think rotated some between initial install and re-installs w/added washers; the direction (& volume) of leak changed.) Davebugs, thanks; I'll keep your kind offer in mind. I do have time (emissions test due August). So, you find the non-Sub. parts to have inferior springs, insufficient tension? --not redressable by washers? (Though, as I noted, given the short threaded part of the replacement bolts --JUST enough to go through length of nut, really zilch beyond(!!)--, increasing the compression will entail some added effort/technique to bring pipes close enough to get a fair start threading the nut (after which there is only so far to tighten_.) I'm also remarking at the different appearances of the gaskets -- what PP73 shows being quite *meshy*, and the Advance being more *solid*, covered mesh. BTW, my buddy suggested trying one thought I had about inverting the gasket, as that would put its thicker side towards the Cat-pipe's concave compressing edge; but re-thinking that I figured it would also quickly compress & CRUMPLE the gasket into pieces! (and that WWII bomber airplane sound would come again) I'll go check the Advance springs to get some idea of their coil vis-a-vis the Sub ones (which had ends overlapping about 1/4" and 5 full turns/coils between). Will have to give a little chance to seeing the gasket get compressed into a complete seal. --my preferred repair method, wishful thinking. Thanks, --Anon.II

Recently, my driving became prominent to anyone within earshot when parts of the original joint gasket fell out. 1991 Legacy L wgn, auto. (Thanks to a prior poster for the image of what/where: http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/cat2.jpg ) I got new parts from Advance Auto -- bolts, nuts, springs, and gasket. With a friend's help, we cut off the old bolts (Dremel) and installed the new gasket (which is conical, looking like someone soaked a brillo pad in zinc or ...); but it leaked. The bolts can be tightened only so far --the threaded end just clears the nut, and the thicker shaft snugs up to the plate. (I should remark: the old bolts had the same size EXCEPT for having longer threaded ends -- which would make starting the tightening easier (we used tools to bring the pipes close enough) --; the thick part abutting the plate to the broad flat part compressing the spring is same length.) (I neglected to compare springs; the old ones I see are now as long as the thick/unthreaded part of the bolt.) Well, we added first one, then a 2nd washer (thin: 2mm@?). But at the end of the day (and it was that), there remained a small, felt w/one finger, leak. Quite quiet and all, but he doubts that the emissions tester will think so, or the testor will detect something. --------- Are these gaskets such that with some use --vibration, continued spring compression, heat-- , the rear/cat-side pipe will press ever more into the gasket and finally, completely seal? My sense is that there is a side --and it must be of the gasket, for it shifted between our efforts (1 washer, than 2nd)-- from which the leak comes; i.e., one could mark the gasket at the point, and then *aim* it by rotating the gasket (when loose). So, some imperfect match of roundness of pipe & gasket concave/convex surfaces. I suppose we could try adding yet a greater washer thickness, so that upon tightening, the springs would be even more compressed. But pulling in two broad surfaces that imperfectly match seems to be something that could resist considerable force, at least initially. --Anon.II

Thanks. It's been more like FIVE years, but, again, something rather intermittent, and as best I could, unaggravated (the earlier recommendation somewhere here about doing several tight figure-8 turns sending shudders through ME ...). Is there any symptom of this need (i.e., that the clutch pack is bad, from the abuse)? For most of the time the car's been driven without problem (and maybe yet somewhat guardedly re turning hard). (You see my question re this above, for a datapoint.) --Anon.II

And did the repairs include replacing the clutch pack, or just the solenoid? (If not the clutch pack, how's running?) --Anon.II

Re "what year?", sorry, 1991 Legacy L+ wgn, 182k or so. About 2? years ago, when I first noticed the flashing light, I took it to a transmission shop who found nothing obvious wrong, and they replaced fluid. (Later I read hear Nipper's (IIRC) admonition about trans. shops!) (But local stealership has a something-like-only 60% Wash.Checkbook rating of Getting it Done Right 1st time. It won't be me, but I hope some independent shop who can replace the Duty-C solenoid, if that's the cure.) Thanks, (-;

I'm not the OP, but, yes, egads, from TIME-to-TIME I have the 16 (power) flashes. I've felt the torque-bind shudder as far back as, hmmm, 5 years? --only every so often, then perios w/o (and care at making sharp turns, when evident). Reading here re tires (and needing them badly), I got new tires this summer; the shudder has appeared since, on occasion, and the flashes after. (Am now building a collection of UltiSub wisdom re this problem, to aim to redress it, thanks.) --Anon., II

Well, something from elsewhere, touching one aspect of this (Turbo vs. non-turbo; note though that it's manual trans. vs. automatic in the cited RockAuto list (and is also confirmed by some of the parts makers, with Turbo injector being yet a 3rd distinct model, matching in appearance the manual one)). And this "something" response is: :cool:

:-\ :-\ :-\ Ack, has NObody any experience with fuel injectors to shed some light on my dilemma?? I'm realllly strung out re this puzzle!

I need to get to the shop and do something re my lame '91 (auto/non-turbo) Legacy, and would like to have some sense of the community re the issue of whether subbing one quite visually different injector is viable vs. what I'm seeing as the recommended part (from several OEMs), before I have to argue/plead my case (about possibly redressing the installation of a wrong part), and maybe limp away to another shop. (And I see that the December "R&R #1 injector" cost me $118; part, $170.) NB: The distinction in appearance of the auto vs. man.(&turbo) '91 injectors is consistent across various brands (SMP, Beck/Arnley, GB, Airtex). (rockauto's pics are great to compare--see: http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?FJ446.html http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?FJ521.html FJ446 is exactly like the Sub. dealer's part (heck, maybe SMP makes if for Sub). Those for automatic non-turbo have that extended tip AND narrow side filter; those for manual have a blunt, recessed tip, and wide fuel-filter side!? FJ521 is said to be for '91 Turbo (as per RockAuto, SMP). When #1 injector went bad end of '007, shop put in an SMP FJ521 (along with O2 & knock sensors). Subsequently, I noticed a few instances of some engine tapping/knocking never heard before (say, going TO, but then not returning from, an errand)!? Now, w/#2 injector found bad, I've done a lot of Googling & e-mailing, and see that there is that marked difference in appearance between ALL of what RockAuto show for manual vs. automatic trans., and the 521 one, for Turbo, matches man. in look. (And I have non-turbo automatic.) IS THIS A SHOW-STOPPER, grounds for complaint/redress?! --Anon.II

Bump, for I need to get to the shop and do something re my lame Legacy, and would like to have some sense of the community re the issues stated above, before I have to argue/plead my case (about possibly redressing the installation of a wrong part), and maybe limp away to another shop. (And I see that the December "R&R #1 injector" cost me $118; part, $170.) --Anon.II

Okay, latest update re this turmoil: Since 2007-11, approx. 180k miles, I've had #1, and now #2 injectors go bad. (Btw, these are the CYCLINDER #s, coincidentally matching sequence!) 1) Why sit with similarly used/aged #3 & #4 until failure, vs. replacing the lot? --because running 3 cylinders (assuming 3&4 wouldn't depart both at once!) isn't a lot of fun, and can happen who-knows-where/when. #2 has gone at about 625mi after #1, fortunately, not 45mi en route T-day. 2) HOW KEY IS THE **RIGHT** INJECTOR? Seems to me from seeing RockAuto.com's rec'd set, where the two rec'd parts for >>AUTO. trans, non-turbo<< have (a) extended tips & ( narrow fuel-entry windows (filter screening), that the Standard Motor Part FJ521 that the repair shop installed in December is THE WRONG PART (to some degree). SMP--part maker--says it's for a 1991 Turbo. This wknd I got to see an actual part for MY 1991 >>automatic<< at a dealer (#16611AA090 (vs. #-120 for manual)), and also found the recommended part & images from another maker, Beck/Arnley, too (RockAuto shows just one of these, for man.trans.; but B/A's for-automatic one matches, found (image) elsewhere (and part # give to me by B/A online rep.) matches the look of Airtex & Standard Motor in appearances). Except for the info got by the SMP info guy, which swaps recommendations of their FJ386 & 446 (which I gotta believe is some mix-up on their info sheet), the distinction in appearance of the auto vs. man.(&turbo) '91 injectors is consistent as noted. (rockauto's pics are great to compare--see: http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?FJ446.html http://info.rockauto.com/SMP/SMPDetail3.html?FJ521.html FJ446 is exactly like the Sub. part (heck, maybe SMP makes if for Sub). Elsewhere I just read a remark that caught my attention--to wit: Why? Because a couple (I've noted 2, could be a little more) of times since the Dec. fuel-injector replacement (also knock & O2 sensors, per codes), I noticed some tapping from the engine (argh). Could putting a Turbo injector into the non-turbo auto engine do that? --never heard it pre-repair. --Anon.II

But this "re-conditioning" seems to be (just) cleaning, and that shouldn't do much for an aged coil winding(?) etc.. Sorry to say, but there isn't such a plate on my door frame! I've sent a query to Subaru via their on-line form. The VIN should be matchable to prod. date or relevant components. Btw, I'm realizing that there is a marked difference between various injectors shown at various sites--i.p., whether there is some extended point to it. In this one, there is nothing but a broad blunt (business) end: [w/o point] http://www.standardbrand.com/web_app/catalog/smp_bgbulk.aspx whereas most/all of these show some noticeable extension: http://www.witchhunter.com/variousfuelinjectors.php4 [witchhunter cutaway view] of http://www.witchhunter.com/injectorcut1.php4 What ... ? :-\

Hmmmm, okay, parts & MORE parts, and ... "(1990-1991)" vs. "(1991-1999)" :: ... apparently some of the injectors are distinguished WITHIN "1991" --Jan..April, then May & later!? (w/one brand diff'ing by $35 , another $1) Which makes one wonder at the brands that read only "1991-1999" if they are as significantly distinguished in effect to NOT covering "1990-1991". And what is MY car? --end of VIN = 904908 ; how do I convert that to When in 1991? (And I thought that this might be fairly easy.) ---------------------- As for the question of reconditioning, well, in my earlier post I asked what of cleaning, rehab, buying rehab'd injectors, or new would be rec'd. silence. At this time, I'd like to get the car out of the shop (I'm balking at their recommendation to both (a) only replace the non-pulsing #2 injector (#1 replaced by them in Dec'07!) w/maybe their cleaning #3&4 (which, geesh, they didn't seem all so interested in even l00king at 'til I asked them to; they pulse), and ( their $170 charge for the part! -Anon.II

As noted earlier, I'm looking to replace some old fuel injectors (1991 Legacy, 181k miles). --------- Shop's part price comes in at a hefty $170 for what I see online adv'd @$120 MSRP disc'd $85 or so. Local dealer quotes $140. Reliable on-line supplier recommendations? Thanks much, (-;

I should add an additional option to replacing vs. cleaning (rehab?), and that is buying rehab'd injectors such as offered by the site http://www.FiveoMotorsport.com (4 for $200). What is the reputation for this source? --Anon., II

Here's the situation. 1991 Legacy L+ auto. wagon at 181k miles. In Dec., an intended long trip was aborted after 40mi with a CEL and badly running engine; limped back okay. Diagnosis was for O2 & knock sensors AND injector #1, all replaced. (not cheap!) Now, some only 600+mi later, similar symptoms are diagnosed as #2 injector bad; at my urging (!), #3 & 4 were examined & pulsed, and deemed okay. Shop rec's replacing #2 ONLY; "wait 'til they go bad" for others (!). --not my idea of treating the problem. I saw here some recommendation for witchhunter.com cleaning treatment; but shop believes injector life is much dictated by internals which it seems that the witchhunter treatment really doesn't address. What to do? Would it be not much more than superficial treatment to engage the witchhunter treatment on #s 2 (bad, no pulsing) - 3- 4 injectors? --maybe it can't redeem #2, and won't much forestall the dying of 3 & 4? Or is their treatment more worthwhile than this? (I thought I'd read something about treating internals, but don't see that on the http://www.witchhunter.com site; maybe it was elsewhere.) --------- Shop's part price comes in at a hefty $170 for what I see online adv'd @$120 MSRP disc'd $85 or so. Local dealer quotes $140. Reliable on-line supplier recommendations? Thanks much, (-;