1997reduxe

Update on my 97 t-belt replacement: Ok. I got it all back together, and when I started it, the timing seems good, but the crank pulley is throwing the ac belt off the back, and it's gradually noticably wobbling. Do you think it's just loose, or could I have put it back on incorrectly? We tightened it really well... Any help, anyone?

I forgot to say that, that I bought a new Suby tensioner off of ebay to do this, and it really made it simpler with the pin installed already. I was going to replace the oil pump too, but since the dealership that sold me the Suby oil pump couldn't really seem to tell me whether I had the right one or not, (it doesn't look the same), plus the fact that I had no oil leaks, well I didn't replace the oil seals or pump. Mainly due to the fact that this was my first time doing this and most extensive repairs for a long time, I felt kind of over my head at times with it. If I knew it wasn't an interference model, well, that would be one thing... But then, you have to rely on the person you take it to if you don't DIY. BTW, the one best piece of advice to make it easier to get the belt on, was in leaving the bottom left (looking at front of engine) pulley off until last. That made the whole difference in the world, I think. '97

Well, I did tighten the bolts and pulled the pin. I just don't remember pushing it to the left first.

I don't mean to double post, but do you guys have any opinion on my tensioner tightening dilemma? I don't remember sliding the tensioner left before tightening yesterday. Is it that critical to slide it left before tightening?

Ok. So I finally got the t-belt on yesterday. It even ran without destroying the engine. But in the middle of the night last night it came to me that I don't remember pushing the hydraulic tensioner to the left before tightening it. (You know, how the holes in the brackets on the tensioner are oblong left and right, and from advice here and elsewhere you put on the tensioner loosely then after getting belt on supposed to slide it left and tighten.) Now how important is this sliding left part. Is there enough length in the tensioner to make up for not sliding? Please, no-one tell me that I have to take it all apart again... '97

Is it an AWD? Do you have 4 similar tires? Or different ones?

Sorry for the late reply. The above post is the one I purchased, except on the long ago advice of the aircraft engineer on this board I ordered the "German" belt made in Mexico. I thought they were going to send me just the better belt, but they sent me one made in Thailand also that says Mitsubishi on it. This is I assume the original belt with the kit because it came in the PCI box with the pulleys, etc. The total for me was, (I think they charged me 15 more for the other belt, and it seems they gave me all german belts, alt and ac too included in the deal, even though the guy said they didn't have german alt and ac belts), total was I think like 240 including two day shipping. Let me just say this. When I looked at some of the pulleys that I took off of the engine when I took it apart, well, for my money I'd recommend replacing the whole kit every time you do the belt. WP included. I'll write more about this later, but for the money any pulley would have to be an improvement. You gotta think, you're talking about hundreds of thousands of miles in some cases. And this issue about interference & various tensioners for pre-post 97. This is something that really is of interest to me. I have a 97 but (thanks to this board again,) it was built in like june or July 96, thus has the old-style tensioner, kit. You would imagine that it might also be non-interference too, yes? The guy from Import Experts said you can have what he called a "mule" car, kind of a hybrid mix between builds. But, I'd like to know, other than the fact that I know that my car is likely an interference model, is there a way you tell for sure, other than taking it apart? '97

I haven't had much luck posting links here, but let me try this: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1990-1996-Subaru-Legacy-Impreza-Master-Timing-Belt-Kit_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZ72Q3a1205Q7c66Q3a2Q7c65Q3a12Q7c39Q3a1Q7c240Q3a1318Q7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a50QQ_trksidZp3286Q2ec0Q2em14QQhashZitem220374816181QQitemZ220374816181QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Sorry, I meant the crank sprocket. I got it off with some liquid wrench and a lot of back and forth screwdriver prying. I mean a lot. My next question, is can I use an oil pump that is meant for a manual transmission with an automatic Legacy? I mean, i ordered one for my car, but now that I look at it it's not the same, it has nipples (I said nipples) that correspond to where the top cover would bolt onto, and an extra appendage on the bottom protruding vertically downward. I was about to pry the old pump off, and noticed the difference. Any opinions on this? Do they sell universal pumps, anyone? Very specific questions, I know. '97

If anyone sees this post, can you tell me how you get the crank pulley off? I am replacing the oil pump, so can you take the oil pump off then remove the pulley? Or do you have to take off the pulley first? Got everything else off. Thanks. '97

I'm on the other topic here regarding my "dumb t-belt question", doing as we speak. But I read on USMB for a long while before buying parts. Some I bought from Subaru, and I still will buy thermostat and gasket from them. But the master kit arrived from Import Experts yesterday, and it looks pretty good...I asked for the better t-belt they sell, and one was in a Continental/Contitech box, and alt and ac belts were also contitech, but there was a second t-belt in the pci box with pulleys which said mitsubishi on it. They charged me 15 more for Conti belt but I thought then I'd get only one. (Of course, with my renewed mechanical Manliness emerging from working with this t-belt, I may just buy that 96 Legacy I know of where they can't figure out why the fuel pump doesn't work and use it on that...) (Of course, my car has over 270K on it so it's not all that critical as a newer car.) You can often find genuine Subaru parts on ebay. also search ebay members for "fast-imports". They are a dealer from I think Denver. I bought my oil pump from them. In this board you will find a lot of reference to "Auburn Subaru" who I think are in Washington state somewhere. I just did a search on that term (Auburn Subaru) on this site and came up with probably the best list of parts options threads. FYI also, there is a really good website mentioned somewhere on this site which has like a volumous database of used engines, everything. Excellent just to know about. '97

Thanks Olnick. You are way ahead of me. I went to Autozone and Oreilly and though I saw lots of Permatex products (Ultra Grey among them) I couldn't find the word Anaerobic on any of them. Isn't it funny? I go along all this time thinking about doing the belt or having someone do it for me, and upon finally acting I think there's going to be this section at the store that says in neon: "Subaru Timing Belt products right HERE!!!!" One other queston. Can someone tell me the model number of the Loctite for the oil pump, or give a link to it? I couldn't find that either. Thanks, once again... '97

How are your brakes?

My main concern today is to clarify the sealants I need. I am going to replace the oil pump, (hopefully), so I understand the Permatex Anaerobic will be suitable for that. And the Loctite for the oil pump back plate. Also the water pump, shot I believe, so I understand that you use no sealant for that, but could use some possibly? I will probably go with none. One thing I am worried about is the thermostat seal. The water pump went on it a while back, and when the place I took it to replaced it it leaked immediately after driving away. If I remember correctly they used the wrong gasket for the thermostat? I seem to remember that they had to order from Subaru? and it was a copper seal? Has anyone heard of this--the plastic bowl on the bottom of the water pump but a copper seal? Now that I think of it maybe they replaced the entire bowl and new gasket. I have to see what it looks like when I get it off. Thanks again. '97

I'm trying to take the job nice and slowly, though so far I'm pretty pleased at how easy it is. The easiest part was unfastening the 22 mm crank bolt. My brother's long breaker bar was perfect to reach the part of the frame in front of the battery, and I did the "turn over the engine" trick I found out about here on USMB. Didn't even need a puller, it came right off! The hardest part so far has been unfastening one of the fan motor harness plugs. I'm down to the part where I can now see the timing belt. And I can tell now that the clanking and whirring I think is the water pump. Thank God I didn't tell the timing belt kit guy not to sell me one. I'll wait until I'm done to say how much I love this website--OOOPPPSSS!!!

Oh, and I forgot the trans. It's an automatic. Thanks.

Surely. I have a 97 Legacy 2.2, but from help on this list a long time ago it was pretty much determined to be a 96 build, and I am waiting for the master kit from the import specialists i think they are in Yakima to get here. I am going to try and also do the oil pump and water pump, but we'll see how it goes. I had an awfully lot of miles on my belt, and just in the last few weeks it kind of started whirring and then clanking under the belt cover, though the car was still running fine timing-wise, so I am hoping it was one of the pulleys going under there.

Hi all. I had written a few days ago about towing my car to get the t-belt replaced, but now I have decided to try it myself. It's just that over the past year I've read so many of these posts, pdfs etc that now I'm kind of confused. My dumb question is, that basically you remove the crankshaft pulley to get to the t-belt covers and pulleys underneath, correct? I had assumed that the crankshaft pulley was under the t-belt covers also, but now I see that it is outside, and you don't need to worry about the positioning of the crankshaft pulley, marks, etc, as with the t-belt pulleys, right? Also, I seem to remember references to someone on this forum who had previously posted a step by step picture procedure of their process for the t-belt replacement? Does anybody know where that might be located? Thanks for any info/help. '97

Hey all. I have to tow (pull with my bother's van) my 97 Legacy AWD to get it fixed. I have had it running in FWD with the fuse for a while, but am wondering if it's possible to tow it a distance? It's about 60 miles to the place I am taking it to. Could i just put it in neutral or what would i have to do? Thanks for all possible help... '97

Well, it just so happens I have been considering this very much in the past few days. I put the FWD fuse in due to serious rumblings and noise in my drive train, and I swear the car runs like it did when I first bought it (at 140K). SMOOTH!!! and it seems it puts much less strain on the engine, etc. (Of course, this is probably subjective since it has 100K+ wear since I bought it.) BUT. does anyone have a link to the actual process or parts to remove (aside from the above) where someone actually did this? and any success? Thanks for any info. Actually, it's just wonderful to see my baby run nicely again, without the necessary need to fix the train, as I already need to get a front axle replaced, inner tie rods, and I've had replacement used struts for the past year that I could finally consider having put on, given that I could dispense with the rear concerns. Also living in Texas.

I didn't notice the mileage, but the conversion to USD comes to about 550, right? What a deal you got. that's great. congratulations...

Yeah, what exactly are you looking for?

God sometimes I really miss State College. It's weird here in Texas. Around Houston it seems there really aren't that many Subarus. But up in Austin there are tons. There must be some kind of lifestyle or demographic correlation, or their marketing to something-somethings really works.

To me, it only stands to reason that there are probably more sensors on 90s era cars than 80s. And that the engines' electronics are more sensitive. Also I would think that suddenly immersing the exhaust in cool water after it's been driven a while and is hot could cook parts there. (Not just sensors). this happened to our family station wagon once where we drove in snow for a looong time up near Erie and the inner jacket of the exhaust sealed almost completely somehow. In my Suby experience, shortly after I bought my 97 Legacy (used, 140K, no check engine light) I took it to the car wash (while hot) and sprayed down the entire engine area to clean it. Immediate result: Check Engine errors. I drove it like that for a long time. Autozone said it was i think fuel level and oxygen sensor and possibly needed catalytic converter/exhaust or whatever. Also, while living out at my sister's place when I first moved down here, when I didn't realize what the term "ex rice plantation" meant waterwise, after a previous nightong's intense rainstorm i came out to my car, which had been parked with the right side of it down over the edge of her raised driveway. I couldn't really see how deep the water was at first, but after starting it and backing up the length of the driveway i later realized it was inside the car and basically up into the glove compartment area. It died about two miles later, and needed a new computer. 650 dollars, and I was desperately hoping that would be all it needed. It was. Still runs good. I don't know about the 95, but the computer was right behind the floorboard behind a panel. now that's dumb! It should be on a tower 5 feet above the roof!

Yeah but that FWD fuse feature is sure something. Speaking from personal experience this week, I have been driving my 97 Legacy AWD for a while with varying levels/types of noise coming from directly under the car. I believe (hope) it's a u-joint, and on thursday it was getting much worse. (It seems like it happens mostly under early acceleration). but anywho, i put the FWD fuse in to check if it would change anything, and the noise pretty much disappeared. Wow, they made these cars with forward-thinking.