eastwestboy

And what is the $5 fix? thanks

Thanks Fox, the thing is the mirror has to extend outwards a bit. When I look in the mirror now I see the left front corner of the trailer, and I ‘d like to see whats further back behind the corner. Looking around the corner, that would be great.

I pull an Aliner trailer with the 2006 Forester. The side rear view mirrors are just a bit too short to have a good rear view. I tried the clip on’s, but they shake like crazy and shift away in a short time. I need something that I can bolt on firmly, that means of course to remove the old mirrors. Are there any bolt on mirrors for that? I don’t want those huge things that you often see on RVs. Thanks

Replaced shoes and drums on the rear of the 97 Legacy. Also got the hardware bag with new springs, cup-washers, through bolts. So everything except the wheel cylinder is new there. Test drove it and worked fine. The first few days I had a bit of a deeper pedal travel, was only going around here in the country. Then the brakes worked perfectly, no more exessive pedal travel, just perfect brakes. After 2 more weeks now, I hear bang-bang from the right rear, proportional to speed. same loundness for high or low speed, hard or light braking. No noise if I don’t brake. Took off the drum yesterday, everything looked good, nothing out of order. Anybody has an idea? Thanks

sounds like an ignition problem. Coil, spark wires, plugs. Most likley the coil, wires can do that too. Also a bad electrical contact could be the problem.I would start with the coil. you get a CEL?

I think you are out of luck. I was aksing and looking around for that too. There are just not enough Subarus around here. Some believe they are pros with subarus because they know Porsches.

Anybody ever did new brakelines from front to back? How difficult is it? What has to be removed to access that space? Mine is a legacy 97 that needs that treatment. Thanx from eastwest

I have it on a hoist now. There is no way I could follow the brake line after it elbows in under the crossmember. Do I really have to remove the crossmember? I don’t even see anything of the line no matter where I try to look in. It is obvious that the line is broken up there, just from where the oil is dripping. So I guess the wheel cyclinders are OK, I just could not get the drums off yet. Tried heat, creeping oil, whackosis. Thanks for the answers, from eastwest

Legacy 1997 202 000 km. Breaking oil is disappearing. There are drops coming down from the 2 1-inch holes right above the rear right inner CV joint. Is there a joint or a connection box or something in the break line? Or did it just rust through. How can the line be accessed there? I cant see the line in this area. Never heard of a break line leaking where there is not an attachment. Thanks from eastwest

the Brighton is a 2.2 and has no headgasket issues. Here, such a car in good shape is around 2500 C$.

1998 Legacy 2.2: After the storm here, I started to loose coolant. It starts losing right after starting. There is a trail of coolant in the snow when I move slowly around. When I start it from cold, running for just 20 secs and shut it down, there is already quite some pressure in the system, so when I open the rad cap then, some 100-200 ml spills out, COLD! I don’t believe this is normal. Coolent is dripping close to where the exhaust pipe branches, but only when I do a short (20 to 40 secs) start and shutdown. Not when it just sits. Haven’t driven it since I realized this. Looks like it comes out of the motor, boy-oh-boy. What could be the problem? It has 203000km. Thanks very much.

What is the pitch stopper and where is it? Thanks for the answers.

I had a pinhole in the oil pan. It was just beside the dipstick tube going in the pan. A bit of jb weld did the trick. But there is more to come. The front side is rusted badly, it’s not going to hold for a long time. What about grinding it to the medal and just put one layer of jb weld on it? I know, it’s time for a new pan, but the $$ is not so many here. I searched “oil pan” on all forums, not a single hit. Nobody ever did something with the oil pan USMB? That cannot be! Thanks

I wrote here about the Forester 06 that stalled about a mile from home after I put gas in it that was a few months old. Thanks for all the replies. I drained the gas tank, there is a drain plug on the right half of the tank, in the other half the gas stays trapped, I guess. I couldn’t find a way to drain the left half. In the FSM and in the Haynes both indicate that both have a drain. After draining, I put in 7 gallons with good gas, drained it, and another 8 gallons. I then opened the gas line under the hood before the pressure regulator, hanged the hose in a container and cranked it. The flow seems to be good, I got almost a gallon out in about a minute. I tested the last portion of that gas on a kubota generator and it worked fine, even though that generator is quite moody. Put the hose back together, cranked, still no start. No CEL either. Could it be that there was something so bad in the old gas that even with my dilution process, there is still enough “toxic” stuff in there that it refuses to start? The me is puzzled. Thanks

Forrester 06: I was driving for 1 mile, coughs three times and stalls. Cranked, turned over but couldn’t start. Flatbed it back home, error codes are P0303 and P0404. The evening before I was refilling gas from a jerrycan, as I often do. The gas was about 3 month old and I am sure the can was closed tightly. I can’t believe my stored gas has done this, but this coincidence makes me doubt. The car is still under waranty, but it is a big hassle to go through that if it is not absolutly necessary. I also disconnected the battery for a few hours but that didn’t help. Also checked all fuses. Anybody with an idea? Thanks

have a look at aliners (aliner.com). Works well with an impreza. They even have a small version , the scout.

Thanks for the comments. The clutch feels like it has still a lot of meat on it. However I don’t really trust my feelings. If it stays that way, not a problem. The cable is in good condition and moves without apparent friction. I have to accelarate quickly when I leave my driveway for the road, they come behind me at 100km/h or more. So its not easy to spare the clutch. Thanks again.

When its below –5 C/23 F, the clutch slips. But only in 3rd gear. It happens only with the first few take-offs in the morning. I can put a lot more load on the clutch in 2nd gear when accelarating, but it never slips then. It also never slips in 4th, but it’s not easy to put on a lot of load in 4th. I tried to slip it in 1st, no “luck”. After a few minutes in the morning, the clutch is OK and feels almost like new. Other than for diagnostics, I drive like a grandpa. Could that maybe point to something inside the transmission. It’s a 98 legacy 195000 km. I had a 1983 Fiat Panda that had slippage only when warm. Different materials there? thanks

You sure you were not taken for a ride? How should a computer problem cause a bulb not lighting? Electricity goes from battery to relay,switch, bulb and back, the ECU does not control the lights. Glad he didn't change the blinker oil. :clap:

Thank you all for the answers. The belt is good and tight as should be. Thanks OB99 for the explanation of the circuit. Wouldn’t it be easy to completely separate the circuits? Too expensive for Subaru? Another question would be why my lights went off with higher rpms. Was just one winding broken? I know, it’s just time for a new one, but I am just wondering wether it’s possible to make a conclusion from the symptoms. When I have time I ll take that thing apart and test the components. Yes, the alternator was on recall. I was twice at Penisula Subaru in Oakville Ontario with an appointment, first they said they are behind schedule, then the mechanic was sick, and then I just forgot about it and that’s to blame me. I heard other bad things about them and in the meantime their licence was taken from them. I just called Subaru of Canada, they were not very helpful, sticking to the paragraph. They want the car at the dealer, basta. That would cost me another 90 bucks or so to flatbed. And maybe the serial no. on the alt is such that they would refuse the recall repair. But SoC, when giving them that serial, is not able to confirm if recall is indicated. Only the dealer can do that, and only if the alt is in the car. Imdew: So I am interested. Is it from a legacy? How old? How much would shipping be? Thanks again

98 Legacy. Driving in stop and go, the battery and break light came on. But only when rpm was below 2000. Step on the gas and the lights turn off while driving or idling. Speculating for a bad alternator, I thought that when I am over 2000, the battery still charges. I kept the rpm high as often as possible. Other that the lights everything looked normal, no dimming of lights or anything. After more than an hour, all of a sudden, I was well over 2000, the car jerked like crazy, had almost no power, but was still drivable. I went for the next possible spot on the side of the road and it died. I flatbedded it home. The battery had 12.2 V, tried to start it but could only crank very slowly. Brought the battry back to life with a charger, started the car no problem to drive it in the garage here at home. My questions: Why is the break light coming on with the battery light? Could it be just the diodes? Could these symptons be enough to be absolutly sure it’s the alternator? I checked the battery connections, they are fine. Thanks.

No, it's still in place and I m still driving around with it. I don't like to think about taking off the pully again. The seal I ve put behind is still holding.

When this happened to me, I made 3 hole in the pulley where the cogs are. I did it with a cutoff wheel on a dremel. I took my three leg hooked puller, put a round steel plate a bit bigger than the hole in the crank. On that, the puller could "stand" and pull/forced-pull the pully off the crank. I got a new key, with a fine small file I made the key-hole in the crank a bit deeper, with the right shape of course. I forced a small steel shim into the remaning gap between the outer side of the key and the new pulley. Oyeah, you need new pully, but not a new motor. It looked ugly, I was concerned, but I made 55000 km with it.

The new impreza, is it made in the US, as Edmonds said?

Of course it will work, if bhp means British Horse Power and 5 bhp = 1 hp