kilgore

http://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34941 Here's a link sent to me by a friend, a Toyota guy, but a nice enough guy nonetheless... Show's alot of cars, mostly members here no doubt, but also some nice comments from the general 4by community. cheers

Try your lug nut...

To clarify, some of the gaskets in the felpro kit you may want to get OEM as they are garb, namely the exhaust gaskets and the cam tower reinf. o-ring. I see you've been made aware of this already. have fun!

If you initially wanted the FRM than I apologize, but this wasn't made clear. I had the exact same problems you had with your HGs. I did mine last winter (w/o pulling the engine) with a Hayne's manual (which was super helpful) and the USRM from this site. Although a factory service manual is nice, it isn't necessary and there are some procedures that are made more complicated than they really are. It's not a very complicated process, and should take you a weekend if you have all the parts. Get the felpro gasket kit, they don't require retorquing - you do not want to have to pull the engine apart twice - and have most everything you need. Get a 10mm ratcheting box end wrench to get at the valve cover bolts if yer leaving the eng. in the car. Read up and then read up some more and then give 'er. Be super careful cleaning the aluminum block mating surface. There are numerous threads on this. I found this helpful as well. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=55920

Just go buy a manual - they are worth their weight in gold. There are a number of different sections of a manual needed in order to do the HGs and once you have your engine open there are a number of things to look for to make sure your engine is slap-happy. Judging by your previous posts you are new to your car, a manual will save you from posting here every time you need help and will keep the gurus from getting annoyed with you... A $15 manual and the 'Search' command are your best friends.

I have heard of spraying a mist of ether to locate vacuum leaks. The best way to precisely locate would be to test with a vacuum gauge I suspect, as small leaks won't necessarily be noted using ether.

I had a similar bogging issue in my ea82, turned out to be a leak in the throttle body - the gasket was torn. Replaced that and she's golden, more bottom end now and less bogging when cold. Just a thought.

I had the same set up. The foglights were mounted on the underside of the bumper until they were smashed off. My relay is mounted on the front side of the drivers' side strut mount beside the coolant reservoir. The relay circuit draws from the parking lights (corner lights on my car) and are powered directly from the battery through an in-line fuse. There is a single wire to the lights which is spliced at the bumper. I upgraded the relay so that each light has it's own power.

Try posting here for wheels. They sometimes pop up, or others may have them kicking around in a shed or otherwise. This is how I scored my 15s. Just a thought. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showforum=15 This guy's got 6 rims in Kansas... Not sure how far that is from you. http://www.505turbo.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=1539

My 92 Loyale injector looks like the cheaper one. (For what it's worth...)

I think there is a difference with the 2wd and 4wd front struts. Aren't the front 2wd's longer (from the spring seat down) by 1.5" or so?

+1 on the EA82 fenders, mine are getting pretty gnarly! If anybody in Washington is willing to sell a set I would be interested. I could pick them up as well. Shipping those things is quite spendy...

got it. no worries... partsman gave me the wrong ones (2wd). He was adamant his book was right but it obv isnt... looks like another strut change on the horizon. yay

If somebody has easy access to a 4x4 Loyale front strut, can you please measure the distance from the top of the steering knuckle (where the strut sits) to the lowest point of the lower spring seat along the strut body? Can you also let me know the brand of strut you have as well? Thanks!

I put a jack under the arm to support it more securely so I could pry against the knuckle. I pried between the control arm and the knuckle with the wheels cranked one way or the other.