timstiles

What parts do you need besides the fog lights to fit these to a 96 Legacy?

Thanks for the replies and pics. I can go at it now without worrying about breaking something. Even though I walked into the dealer with the correct part number below it turns out the guy gave me an oring with close to the same part number but ends in '6020'. I wondering if it will even fit. Same parts counter guy that gave me the wrong bulbs for the hvac unit during the same visit.

Went to the dealer today and he sold me all long bulbs. Doh! I wished I would have printed out the part numbers in the url above first. The long ones were the only part numbers on the dealers blowup of the hvac controls. But I put the long bulb in and the fan switch lights up now. I still need to get 1 short bulb. Question on that though, is it possible to rotate the bulb base into a position where it is not making contact on the circuit board? Tim '96 Legacy Wagon with Saabaru 92X Wheels and '97 Legacy GT interior

Is there a trick to getting this cap off? I removed the bolts and the cap won't come off. About all I can do so far is get it to rotate by tapping on it with a long extension. Don't want to break anything so I bolted it back up and decided to ask here before continuing. Thanks, Tim 96 legacy 2.2

Awesome, thanks for the help everyone!

Not sure, looking for someone to say 'mine lights up' before digging into the dash.

My newly acquired 96 Legacy has illumination at night for all the hvac buttons but not the fan speed dial. Should it be lit up as well ?

I replaced both valve cover gaskets this weekend and degunked and pressure washed the undercarriage and engine from the top and bottom. Hopefully that will help me spot where it's coming from. Is is possible to do the EJ22 head gaskets with the engine in the car?

yup you were right on the money. I went to the picknpull yard today and found 1 lonely 93 Impreza. Sure aren't many Subarus in junkyards around here! Fortunately the car had the same internal fuel pump harness as my 96 legacy. I got that and the harness from the top side. The subaru dealer wanted $62 for the part (6 inches of wire with 2 ring terminals) , the counter guy at picknpull didn't charge me! Got home, put it back together and it fired right up. The Airtex brand fuel pump I got from Carquest is louder than the engine at idle which is already driving me crazy , I think I'm in for a battle getting the store to take it back. 2 quick questions to save new repetitive threads. 1) for the 96 legacy what is the cheapest, easiest and most reliable path to turbodom (i've read 4 forums til my eyes hurt but am probably more confused than when i started) 2) same car has oil leaks, if it's not coming from the front of the engine, valve covers, rear main, oil filter, or separator plate, where else can it leak from ? its burning off the exhaust at the "Y"

I'm headed to pick-n-pull this week to try to get the pump/sender assembly. Assuming the pump I get at the junkyard is good I will then have 3 working fuel pumps. : ) I don't think the parts store will take the one I bought today back. Maybe I can use one of the extra ones to make a 12v siphon.

here are the pics http://tbsventures.net/pics/fuel1.jpg http://tbsventures.net/pics/fuel2.jpg

The saga continues! It wouldn't start today so I bought a new fuel pump. Installing anything other than the subaru pump is a pain by the way. Got the new pump in, jumped in the drivers seat to fire it up and it has the same d!@@ problem. I found out why but don't know what could have caused it. The pump/sender housing side wiring connector is permanently affixed to the housing. On the bottom side 2 2 wire harnesses plug into it. One goes to the sender , the other to the pump. I noticed the insulation was missing a bit on the black wire going to the fuel pump, not on the pump side but up within the small 2 wire white connector that plugs into the larger white one that passes through the pump/sender housing. I popped that connector out and a good bit of insulation is indeed gone from the black wire. The fuel pump connector is black, melted, and burned looking, it looks the same where it plugs in also. I'll post some pics later when my camera is back from a birthday party. I'm a bit concerned to have found this on the internal tank connectors. Has anyone seen this ?

Ya it is a bit odd. I had my ear right on top of the pump while someone turned the key and cranked it and heard nothing. When I connected it directly to the battery the pump worked. I will probably replace it so I don't have to worry about it. partsamerica.com shows the correct part number as: Carter In Tank Fuel Pump: Part Number: P72193 Fits the following vehicles SUBARU 1993 - 1995 IMPREZA 1992 - 1996 SVX 1991 - 1998 LEGACY INFINITI 1991 - 1994 G20 ISUZU 1991 - 1995 RODEO 1992 - 1993 TROOPER NISSAN 1989 - 1998 240SX 1993 - 1994 MAXIMA 1990 AXXESS

Tested the connector going to the fuel pump and it has +12v for a few seconds with key first on, and +12v when cranking. so the fuel pump wasn't working . I removed the fuel pump and connected it to a battery and it ran, reinstalled in the car and it works fine now. Last year the electric fuel pump for my RV generator stopped working. My father in law whacked it with a hammer and it started working. What is with these tempermental fuel pumps? Best deal in town for a new subaru fuel pump is $99 bucks. If you know where I can get one cheaper let me know! Tim

update, I have no fuel pump sound, no fuel coming out of the fuel line supply side at the filter with key in run or when cranking . I'm off to jumper pins 1 and 4 at the fuel pump to see if it works.

where is the fuel pump relay on a 1996 Legacy, I need to check mine in the AM!

Drove my 96 all over the place today like I normally do and it ran great as always. Hopped in it tonight to head out to dinner and it cranks but won't start. I added a few gallons of gas in case the gauge was wrong but it didn't help. Anyone got any ideas? I'm new to Subarus so almost any advice is helpful. I want to test the fuel pump in the morning. Does fuel flow when the key is in the on position or only when cranking ?

* I spend a good deal of time searching the forum before posting this so it's not here or my search skills suck! : ) * I'm looking for a DIY write up (pics would be nice) for installing an aftermarket alarm system. I'm staring at the install manual and it looks like a royal pain. The target car is a 96 Legacy but posts on any Subarus would be helpful. Thanks, Tim

I've no doubt the motor would probably run across the U.S. and back happily at 3500 or more. 5th in this car just feels like 4th in other cars I've driven. Sounds like there aren't any options so I'll just keep on truckin' !

Got this fixed today. I first drilled a small hole from the bottom up to get an idea where this infernal blind nut was located. It's basically underneath the floor directly below the right edge of the brake pedal. I cut the top, right, and left edges of the floor with an air grinder, peeled the metal back with screwdrivers and pliers, and the nut was right there. This nut is only held on by 3 pimple sized spot welds, there is no rust on my car so that wasn't a factor of it breaking loose. I got the broken nut out and replaced it with a bolt inserted from the top, the reverse of the factory config. I like it this way better. I hammered the floor back down into place and went for a test drive. 100% fixed and so nice not to have the engine/trans assembly clunking when I shift. I have enough thread left to put a locknut on so that's next. And later when I'm hanging out with someone with a welder I'll get them to weld the bolt head in place. Thanks for all the advice! Tim

My car runs around 3500 rpms at 80. Even at slightly lower speeds it feels like it wants a 6th gear. Are there any direct fit 5 or 6 spd trannys from other Subarus that will bolt right in and drop my rpms at cruising speed?

I definitely want to take the time to do it as nicely as possible. That extra amount of time spent to do things the right way pays off in the end. I started threading this one by hand and thought it was tight because the crossmember hole wasn't 100% on center. Still thought I had it so I hit with the snap on cordless impact. I never thought that tool had enough mojo to snap a weld!

mine's not hanging down , yet, it just clunks when i shift : ) Reveen - great info in your reply , thanks . I was thinking about approach #3 if its possible on the legacy. Was the carriage bolt/steel plate combo on top of the floor pan or down inside the hole? I suppose from the top I can cut 3 side sand fold a section of the floorpan back so I'm staring down at all this mess. Editorial - this really ticks me off. : ) I did probably one of the cleanest most organized repair jobs in my history and the last bolt (out of probably 100 or so) kicks me in $ss!

After a mostly careful installation of a new clutch that was fairly straightforward I had a problem with one of the main crossmember bolts. There are 2 that screw into nuts that are welded or otherwise attached somehow up inside the chassis. The driver's side nut broke free of whatever it is mounted to so now I have a free spinning nut and bolt assembly on that side. Even worse the bolt wasn't all the way in when the nut broke free so there is slack. I can move that bolt/nut assembly up and down and rotate it in either direction. : ) I figure I will need to cut the old bolt off and then figure out what to do in terms of replacing the nut it threads into. Hopefully I've written an interpretable description of the problem and someone on the forum will have a great idea on how to get me out of this lovely situation! Tim 1996 Legacy

Cool, will do. One last question I think. Could someone with access to a Subaru parts manual let me know what if any years fit a 1996? The local junkyard has a 98 or 99 Outback that still has the steering wheel assembly intact. I tried this searched on several of the online Subura parts places but none of them have airbag parts listed.