Zefy
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Posts posted by Zefy
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Hey Jeff! Text me some details of the convoy... Just sent you a text but I don't know if I have an old number or something...
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Pretty hard to find one of these air dams, but finding a high rise canopy is not. There are people that have cut the backs off to reproduce the look. Pretty much exactly the same i think.
If you're going to strap a piece of plywood to your roof you should at least paint it...i guess it serves a purpose though...
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those are OCD's fenders... 150 bucks...? Last time I looked at the thread where those were purchased from they were 40 each...
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=129204&highlight=fiberglass&page=6
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showpost.php?p=1115165&postcount=65
Trying to flip them i guess...?
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carefull wrong hookup will ruin alt i use only one wire from the legacy alt on my 79 with 2.5 turbo uses 91 legacy alt
Because I don't have the plug for my alternator I had to trial and error the pins. I guessed wrong on the first one... Only two wires on it so second time did the trick! Not sure if doing that ruined it...
But it seems to work. Voltage seems to be a little high at idle but I haven't really had a chance to really run it for any length of time. I just tested with my DMM and then again with the tuning software on my laptop.
Just to confirm, the second wire does absolutely nothing...? Or is this wire used as the voltage regulator signal wire?
I would really love to see a couple pictures of your 79. Sounds like a beast.
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haha ya I'm a little choked that I missed your FS thread Caboobaroo...
As far as making repro's is concerned, I'm pretty sure everybody that has owned one of these has said something along those lines. :-p
I'm not meaning to sound rude about it... It's just the way it is. Very difficult to justify building something like this when you already own one. Building a repro would cost you money, time and it would just make your rare piece a little more common/less rare.
I totally understand that this is not high on the priority list.
But if you were to let me reproduce yours, then we could be onto something! I have the money, time, infrastructure, and ability to do something like this. And because I don't actually own one it won't be low on my to do list.
I also just really want to see one of these installed... Seen a few pics of them sitting in front of cars but I don't think I've seen one truly installed. Garner had one... Can't remember if he every installed it... photos are lost in the usmb's of old...
Did you every install yours Caboobaroo? Moosens?
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what is with the abarth logo?
Not very subaru of you.:-p
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Long shot, but I know there are a few kicking around that aren't installed on cars...
Figured I would ask everyone instead of just bothering pooparu... :-p
My brat is in need of one of these...
Let me know.
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Here are some guidelines for installing harnesses.
http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i273/Chris_Eyre/VW%20Motorsport/Harness%20FAQ/FIAHarnessv2.jpg
http://daliracing.com/v666-5/catalog/x-images-more/harness-bars-install-diagram-Install4CWeb.jpg
you are probably going to need a rollbar or something to mount them to. perhaps mount to the back wall but that isn't really all that safe.
You will also need different seats. Stock seats aren't designed for harnesses. I'm also fairly sure there is no such thing as a retractable 4pt harness... There are 4pt harnesses but retractable...?
I'm in the process of installing some 6 point harnesses but I still need to get a few things for them to be done properly.
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sounds like you are missing the power wires somwere on the realy feed or bad ground on brown ig realy it has 2 power sources think you are missing one. If the idle motor is not working it will lose the pulse to the #1 injector but will still run fine on 3 sound like power problem or feul have had problems with intank pu not being big enuff for 2.2 demands but would still stay runing are you useing the factory feul pump relay or legacy one they work diferantly one grounds to turn on pump one powers to turn on pump
we will never know what was really wrong with my swap harness as i went ti a standalone computer system. However its good to get this info down in case someone else has these problems.
as far as my alternator problems are concerned, I will and a look through my FSM to try and pin down the right wires. Most of the stock harness is still in the car so it should still be there. I no longer have the regulator or original alt wiring being used so it'll take some digging. Thanks!
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I will have to go look at my wiring but I didn't think it would be that simple. My car had an ea71 with a external voltage reg alternator. Still the same white/red wire?
I also don't have the pigtail for my alternator. Which pins are which?
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interesting. I'm still curious as to why mine didn't run properly. My engine and chassis grounds were good. Very confusing...
On a different note though, my alternator isn't charging anything... I am using a newer one from a 97. It has a two wire plug on it. This plug is not connected to anything because I am running a standalone.
I tried just doing a quick jumper test to the battery and it didn't change. I will put a little more effort into it tomorrow but does anybody know how to actually wire one of these in? It seems that I may actually need a signal from the ECU (which isn't there...) to turn on based on this:
http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=18135
thoughts? this is actually one of the few things from stopping me from getting temp insurance and going for a drive.
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The lift he got was from the springs, not the shocks themselves.
You could also just get koni inserts. Would be custom like the other ones but would probably be the best system possible. Konis require access to the bottom of the strut. I can't recall how much room is available between the bottom of the strut and the axle boot.
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At one point there was a build thread for a set of these...
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=88695
They used something like a beetle insert and some other madness. The OP designed and put them together... don't know if he is still active or not. Could be worth looking into.
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you could try using something like a garage door seal. People make crappy front lips for them all the time.
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I trimmed and pounded quite a bit to make mine fit.
running 215/75/15 BFG m/t KM's. I went a little overboard in some parts and not enough in some others. I rub on full lock. Rear doesn't touch at all.
kinda hard to see but only pic I can find right now.
Different offset wheels would probably make it not rub at all.
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torsen diffs require at least a small amount of traction to function. So once a tire gets off the ground or you put it on something really really slippy they stop working. Fantastic diffs for tarmac or loose surfaces but not good for wheeling.
Lunchbox lockers, like the one Prwa101 is making, default to locking in pretty much every situation where a wheel would slip or be off the ground. Much better system for off-road but sometimes terrifying at any real speed during mid corner.
Very good work and I'm excited to see how they perform. Very interested to see this in a front diff. Rears are cheap and weldable but fronts are a pain.
Very ambitious project!
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Maybe it was a bad Subaru ECU? There are two modes that it cycles through for controlling the fuel pump. It sounds like it wasn't switching to the second mode "run." First mode is "Prime/Start."
But now its a moot point. Fun times with fuel mapping
Can you get a profile for the EJ22 for that computer? If you don't mind me asking, what is it and wat did it cost you?sorry for the slow reply.
I tried swapping to a friends ECU and it had the same results. I was not losing fuel pressure at all while running. The injectors were receiving a fuel cut signal. While I was tearing everything apart I may have discovered the problem but I was already committed to the standalone. The bolt for the cam sensor was not snugged up. It wasn't dangly loose, just not snug...
the standalone is an electromotive tec3. This is a 'universal' standalone system that will work on essentially any motor from a rotary to a v12.
With that in mind, it is not a plug n play system. I did not use any of the stock sensors for this application and it even replaces the crank trigger wheel and coils.
The ECU came with a wizard for making a base map but it's really just something so the car can start. The rest of it is up to me! Lucky the aftermarket support for these is fantastic.
But all said and done, these systems retail (with all the sensors and jazz) for about $3300. I bought it used for $500 which as I've learned is cheap for these units. Came with all the sensors and everything to get it running to as it came off a suby.
Honestly this isn't my first choice for a standalone but its perfect for what I need. There are other more suby friendly units like the vipec or hydra.
I cannot find anybody else running one of these on a subaru though.
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lol... this didn't take any extreme amount of time at all... After much troubleshooting (obviously) the brat is now running on a full standalone.
Not well... but it does...:-p
Clicky the big black box...
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what wideband are you using?
I wouldn't be surprised if the sensor is giving you false readings. I've seen these sensors die after only a few months of use. For yours to last years is a little odd.
A lot of times they won't throw an error code or give wildly false readings. They'll just be a little off...
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mkay... so after my last outing with the wagon it started to develop a loud clunk clunk clunk coming from the passenger rear when turning RIGHT. To me, this noise sounds extremely similar to a "lunchbox" style locker when turning on pavement. Like aussie locker, lockrite, detroit locker... But only when I turn right...
I gave one eye a call and he was saying that the little wire keeper thing in the axle has popped out. I popped the boot off and it was fully seated. lame...
So being that I have a spare corner and a spare diff I figured it would replace everything except the CV as my spare was in pretty rough shape. After welding up my spare diff and removing the old one I am fairly certain that the diff is not the issue. There were some metal shavings in there but it runs smooth.
After feeling each inner joint of the axles, I'm not to sure that the passenger side is as happy as the drivers side. A bit of water came out of the boot too... The balls in there do not move smoothly but no visual damage can be seen.
Thoughts?
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what tire/rim combo are you running? it looks really good under there.
15" peugeot wheels w/ 27" bfg mud terrains. Actual tire size is 215/75/15...
heavily cut fenders w/ 2" 'one eye' lift kit. kind of an odd spring strut combo though... Driver front and passenger rear are stock wagon struts/springs but the passenger front and driver rear is RX struts/springs. Car sits crooked...
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I'm gonna print these off and give them to my old boss. He owns an independent Honda shop (yes I work/ed there) And to one of the techs...he is all Honda all the time..like we are with our subies...I always used to get crap for being the only suby guy in the shop...but hey, it was (and still is once in a while) a job.
have to admit I actually really like that honda. It was a great car until my buddy let his sister daily drive it into a ditch. Thing is totally kinked. We were parking my wagon in his backyard and we figured it was a good idea to try driving up on it.
horray for welded rear diff!
WTB: Kamei front splitter
in Historic Subaru Marketplace-for 50s-70's parts only all others use other marketplaces
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bump? hah