Zefy
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Posts posted by Zefy
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my JDM lights don't project a JDM light pattern I made a new cut-off shield for it.
long story short it's just one solid piece of metal so I had to be creative.
And the only thing that would hold it in place with the high heat of the bulb was JB Wield.
so you did that after those pictures were taken? It really looks like the pattern is going the wrong way. This would be a great option to. Do you have pics of the process?
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JDM lights are pretty sweet however they are EXTREMELY dangerous.
Note the cut of the light. It is designed for driving on the other side of the road. Those lights don't cut straight across. They ark up towards the driverside which will blind oncoming traffic.
This is a big issue where i live because there are LOTS of JDM imports running around and all of them need different headlights.
if you look at a standard USDM headlight the ark goes to the passenger side. This is so the side of the road is lit up better.
Installing proper HID bulbs into the stock housing is also a bad idea. While it is brighter, the beam is totally wrong. A proper HID bulb is typically an inch longer than a standard halogen and light is produced at a different point in the bulb. This means that the lens and reflectors are in the wrong spot to suit this bulb. This will once again cause a hazard to you and other drivers on the road.
If you bought 'HID' bulbs that are just plug and play without ballasts then you don't actually have HID's. They are tinted halogens that appear brighter when they are actually worse.
next thing to consider. higher wattage bulbs. This is a good way to improve lighting on a budget. Be careful though! Putting something like an 80/100W hella bulb in the stock socket will melt wiring. You need to rewire the system with thicker gauge so it can handle the extra load. This is time consuming work as the relays, fuse holder, etc are all insufficient for this type of operation.
I have gone this route and the easiest way to do it is to make a seperate headlight harness that has it's own fuses, relays, and plugs and uses the OEM headlight plug as the signal for the relays. This is the best solution in my mind as you can remove the entire system in about 10 minutes for a VI and you don't need to damage the factory stuff.
The other problem with going this route is the bulb itself produces more heat so it can have a tendency to melt housings and plastic lenses. You need to keep an eye on this if you go this route.
You also meantioned that you wired it so that the low and high beam filaments are on at the same time. this causes premature burnouts with the bulbs as you are producing gobs more heat. I run mine like this sometimes and it cuts the lift of the bulb in half if you do it on a regular basis. The 80/100W hella bulbs lasted me about 6 months when properly used while having both filaments on lasts about 3 months. I have used hella and osram for about 3 years and the osram tend to last longer. However at only 8 bucks a pop for the hellas vs. 15 for the osram it is cheaper to just replace them more often.
What i would recommend to you:
best: Find yourself a set of JDM headlights with projects and retrofit audi, bmw, acura, merc, etc projects in. If you want to you can even find a set of bi-xenon projectors for highbeams. Using USDM HID parts will ensure that you are not blinding oncoming traffic and they will be brighter than the standard JDM headlights. You cannot retrofit projectors into your factory headlights. The lens on your headlights is not clear (i think...?) so the beam will change after it leaves the headlight. You need clear housings like the JDM ones with the projector behind it.
pretty damn good: find a set of EDM (europian demestic market) headlights. They boast the same JDM goodness that 1-3-2-4 has AND they ark to the correct side making you and other drivers happy. These are HARD to find though.
good: Make youself an upgraded harness and install some better bulbs. Nobody will notice if you have the adjusted correctly. I have had this for 3 years and i've never had any problems. VI's are SUPER common and the cops are anal about this sort of stuff. Also, your headlights are plastic correct? Clean and polish them. If they are yellowing then make them crystal clear. Wetsanding may be needed. Most of the time a bit of toothpaste will clean them up nicely. it is stagering how much of a difference it can make. Check your grounds and clean all connects. Having a bad ground can really change how the lights perform.
You can also add some extra lights like torxxx was saying. I would opt for them to be on the bumper vs. the roof. For off-roading the roof is nice because it lights up the surrounding area. This is not what you want for spotting dear. Putting them on the bumper will minimize glare off the hood so you can see better. Also the law here states that the lights have to be below the headlights. Not sure what it is in PA. hella 500 driving lights are a good start. Just stay away from the walmart 'baja' specials and crap like that.
hopefully i've given you some good ideas that you can work with. look around here: http://www.danielsternlighting.com/
TONS of usefull stuff.
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yup that's how i got them going. towards the motor. it hasn't rolled back and forth at all yet so i assume it isn't settled.
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dropped by my friends house to grab some pics. Front lift is in, swaybar disconnected (still needs to be removed though) and front tires on.
understand that the camber issues will settle over time...? This kit is actually a little confusing so i'm not sure if i installed it correctly.
need to trim the fenders a bunch. I have a couple mm of clearance between the front of the fender and the tire.
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i'm hoping to have it done by then but i'm not sure i can get the time off work. i only work 1 day a week because of school so missing a saturday is like missing 2 weeks of work and half my pay cheque...
oh well... we'll see. if it can be moved to sunday then i can for sure go!
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coming along nicely!
got the rear diff welded up and it's almost ready for action.
the front wheel bearing turned out to not be messed up. Looks like some rump roast hat mechanic didn't tighten up the centre nuts on the axles. They were all pretty loose. Will find out soon if there is permanent damage.
Dug out my set of RX springs and struts. Going to replace the old and blown stockers. (these came off a rally car that only had a couple events so they should be good.)
What sort of differences might i expect to see with the RX stuff? I hear the rear sits higher? comments? problem? to much for the axles to handle with the 'one eye' strut lift?
speaking of which, i picked up a one eye lift kit! Was going to put it in today but i do believe i've been smacked in the face with some sort of disease. Don't think it's the swine flu as it's been extremely mellow. Feels more like a cold.
Also picked up a set of BFG mud terrains on pug wheels!
when i'm in there installing the lift i'm probably going to remove the front swaybar and cut/pound the fenders into submission to fit the 'big' tires.
next thing after that will be improving the approach and departure with some close fitting bumpers.
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Weird.. Such an odd swap. Makes me wonder what else is going on with that engine. Is the motor running off a map or a maf?
A 99 impreza L should not be able to run with a map. Something here doesn't add up...
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are you sure you have 2.5 heads and manifold? The phase 2 ej22 heads and manifold are virtually identical to the ej25 SOHC engines with one big difference. The 2.2 has single port exhaust.
i have a 2003 ej25 from a 2.5rs in my 99 impreza (original ej22 car). The intake manifolds are interchangeable and the heads have the same casting.
check the exhaust ports.
now that is an obd2 engine so swapping it is slightly more difficult. Also, if it is a 99 impreza it should have a MAF sensor. If you truly do have ej25 goods it should have a MAP sensor on it. ej22 does not.
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the subaru supercharger is for a 660cc engine. There are a bunch here in the sambars and such that were imported from japan... pretty useless charger for a normal suby engine...
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pretty sick build going on.
one question, it looks like that diff is mounted right side up... doesn't it need to be upside down to spin the right way?
does the t-case you're using going to correct that issue?
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^^ +20
That's a clean slate. You should trade me for a badly oxidized and peeling hood in the same color...then you wont feel bad about bashing 'er!
it's already starting to peal. probably wouldn't be much of an improvement.
still deciding what to do about the lift kit.
i've been talking with SJR about grabbing those 27" SSR's and that 2" lift on the car but i'm unsure if i can uninstall the 2" kit, install a 4" kit on the same car, and install the 2" kit onto my car and put on the 27's so i can drive home.
it would have to be a 1 day operation.
OR:
buy the TSL's i mentioned earlier and redrill the hubs. this will give me more wheel and tire options.
then build my own lift kit. in total, it's probably the same amount of work and i don't have to pay for machine work. (i can do it myself.)
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Greg I'll get back to you on the PM, I was just thinking next to the Wendys by Ikea, thats a good place to wheel:grin: I dont know if you remember that or not (your parents trooper almost rollover)
Jeff
haha yaaa... good times...
that spot got paved... for more parking? because of me? who knows...?
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what size tires are those?
looks sweet! i'm gunning for the same setup.
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ya there is tons of good spots. popular local place is stave lake. It is pretty much just a huge mud flat with big holes to get stuck in.
there are tons of trails and such around here and my friends typically go on trips to different places every couple of months.
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So i just got back from picking up an 87 wagon. some specs:
-ea82 carbed engine
-d/r 5speed
-rusty rear wheel arches
-83k miles on the clock (ya... 134k km!!!)
-clean interior
-leaky valve covers it looks like
-shotty passenger side front wheel bearing
so list of things to do:
-lift it (one eye 2" lift i thinks)
-welded rear diff
-found a set of 29" interco TSL's
-beat the poop out of the wheel wells to fit
-bumpers perhaps
-install RX discs which i have sitting beside my house
-redrill hubs to fit toyota wheels (coming with the TSL's)
then bounce it off some trees and such. see where it can take me!
pics will come tomorrow. i am storing it at my friends house...
any thoughts? changes? must have mods?
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ya the only difference i'm aware of is the rear struts have a wider mounting on the 2002+ compared to the 2001 and prior vehicles. The exhaust and rear swaybar mounts are different also i think.
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Thanks for clearing that up. I would like to see the pics of the different gears. Also I just dismantled a 2.5 phase 2 engine and both pulleys were metal... any one seen this? Is this a 2003 + engine? All the ones i've worked on up until now are plastic and metal.
the link to the PDF file i posted earlier has pictures of both the the crank and cam gears from both styles.
the only engines i've seen that have both metal gears is phase 1 2.2's. got any pics of the engine in general? 2003 should have the plastic gear.
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Yeah having the timing belt off two teeth would cause all kinds of "fun" noises on startup. What did you do about the exhaust? single vs dual port issue? Y pipe from 2.5? Another question: all subaru sohc pulleys are the same tooth count and are completely interchangeable with out messing up the timing ratios? Forgive me if this has been covered 100 times I am new to the swapping of subaru engines ( 2.2 to 2.5 etc) My first couple subarus and the ones my customers owned were legacys so i never had to mess with the engines just cv joints and wheel bearings
i used a 2.5rs y-pipe. they are extremely easy to come by and they work fine.
these are the two types of reluctors.
http://www.northursalia.com/techdocs/pdf/engine/reluctor.pdf
i have only ever seen L-MPI systems. This is ranging from 1990 to 2003 SOHC engines. Now i'm not saying they are ALL the same. I'm saying most seem to be. It is really easy to see the difference without the pulley being off. You can just pop the cover and and feel for the teeth. It should be blatanlty obvious which one you have.
Now there could also be alignment issues between the cam gears and i don't know about the tooth count for the timing belt. I only checked the pickup locations for the sensor. In my experience, (limited) a phase 2 ej22 longblock can be replaced with an ej251 longblock (SOHC) without issue.
frankly, i jump in to this swap a little to eager beaver style and it wound up working in my favor. Do your research and physically check the components to make sure you're getting what you think you're getting.
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i'm a little lost. you put the 03 ej25 into the 99 ej22 car and it would not run, you compared the cam sprockets and found them to b the same, swapped the intake from the ej22 onto the ej25 block and now it runs????
is this correct?????
also, the pics are deceptive since it looks like both cams are off.
more info please, what did you do to correct the problem?
what intake is on the ej25 you installed in your 99 2.2L car??
nice pics by the way. and kudos for even attempting this.
this has already been covered but:
it is an 03 ej25 longblock with an ej22 intake manifold. The only difference i could see with the intake manifold is the 03 has a MAP sensor while the ej22 has the MAF so i used the ej22 manifold.
The longblock has not been changed at all. The problem was the drivers side cam was off 2 teeth. The pictures are deceptive. The cams should be pointing straight up along with the crank. Everybody thought that the cam gears were the issue. I'm letting everybody know that they are the same between both engines.
The problem i had was unique to my engine because the previous owner took of the timing belt and didn't put it back on properly so it wouldn't run properly.
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thanks for the offer. I also have multiple sets of cam sprockets.
here is the real deal. READY?
there is NO DIFFERENCE between ej25 and ej22 cam sprockets. ej25 vs. ej22. I have cam sprockets from 1990 to 2003 and they ALL look the same. Now i'm sure DOHC might be different but as far as SOHC goes it is all the same.
so that doesn't explain my issues getting it to run. So i investigated the crank gear. Low and behold, also the same! here is my problem:
pictures are a little deceptive. the driverside cam is off 2 teeth and that was as close as i could get it to showing the problem.
Runs great now. this is a direct swap. Pull off my intake manifold, put it on the new engine. BAM. works.
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thanks! sorry for the cross posting. i am pretty desperate right now.
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i just swapped in a 2003 ej25 into my 99 ej22 car. It won't start.
i swapped the intake manifold off my old engine and everything plugged in perfectly.
the car sputters and started only a couple of time but it would only stay running if i gave it lots of throttle and it would backfire through the intake enough to blow the clasps off the toque box.
it was also blowing black soot out the tailpipe and it seems to have fowled a set of plugs. i pulled them out after the short run and it was covered in black soot.
i changed the plugs, coil, and wires with no results.
The motor is new. the car it was in fell off the truck back in 2003 and it was pulled and put in storage since then. It did have storage oil in the cylinders so i'm guessing that's the reason for the soot and plugs. but backfiring? missing?
it feels like an ignition issue. but......?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
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i just swapped in a 2003 ej25 into my 99 ej22 car. It won't start.
i swapped the intake manifold off my old engine and everything plugged in perfectly.
the car sputters and started only a couple of time but it would only stay running if i gave it lots of throttle and it would backfire through the intake enough to blow the clasps off the toque box.
it was also blowing black soot out the tailpipe and it seems to have fowled a set of plugs. i pulled them out after the short run and it was covered in black soot.
i changed the plugs, coil, and wires with no results.
The motor is new. the car it was in fell off the truck back in 2003 and it was pulled and put in storage since then. It did have storage oil in the cylinders so i'm guessing that's the reason for the soot and plugs. but backfiring? missing?
it feels like an ignition issue. but......?
any help would be greatly appreciated!
78 BRAT w/blown HG: EJ swap into or rebuild the EA71.
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
email replied. Good luck with the build.