Zefy
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Posts posted by Zefy
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double clutching doesn't really hurt any engine components except due to the extra revs. it can waste a bit more gas to.
it is really good for the syncros in the trans though (if done correctly) as it will cause no wear on them because you are doing the job of the syncro by double clutching.
I do it on my impreza as more of a habit. The old brat had worn out syncros so i had to double clutch to downshift. learning how to do it, then getting good at it can take some time. It was a really steep learning curve for me as it would grind if i got it wrong. doing it for first gear on the newer cars makes it nice and smooth to enter the gear.
i heel-toe and double clutch. it's really fun once you get the hang of it. Old people love it to! it throws them into a 'back in my day' speach.
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Have you ever seen a dyno sheet that does cross at the correct point? I haven't
lol maybe that's why cars in australia always seem so much more hardcore. their dyno plots are totally buggered with...
seriously though. My local tuner shop (rocketrally) uses a dynodynamics which is known for reading 'correctly' (low). Big heated debates about it but he makes it a rule to not scale his graphs... makes a lot of people who spend piles of money cry...
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what did you do differently between the two runs? more boost? tune?
also it says it's uncorrected but the plots are not crossing at the correct spot. What's going on there? sorry i'm such a buzz kill!
what are you running for mods?
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sweet!
Got a dyno plot you can post? Vid is kinda hard to read.
what kind of dyno was used?
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Zefy:
Where are you at with your gen 1 swap? What does it need to get running? I was wondering what kind of problems you ran into when doing this swap. I am SERIOUSLY contemplating this swap and have most of the parts for it already collected. I just wanted to see where you were at before I dove in.
somebody sent me a PM a while back asking pretty much the same stuff. Things i would like to note,
it's still not done yet. a portion of the problems mentioned are still there along with totally new ones. Here is my deal, i REALLY enjoy starting new projects and don't end up finishing the old ones and I just keep tacking on new an interesting things that i would like to do with the brat. to get it moving and such i need to:
-make a trans mount and mount the shifter linkages.
-finish rear suspension retrofit. (more on this when it works!)
-put in dash and button up wiring and redo all the lights n such. Also having the EMS fully functioning with the wideband AFR would be slick.
-botch together an exhaust. (have one that works however i decided to become a header guru and took out a bunch of books to not only design and build my own header but actually understand where the length measurements are coming from.)
-mount coilover reservoirs in a safe place.
-button up odds and ends.
but i digress. big list, no time!
this is the pm i sent back to the person who was in your exact position.
Hey Ed,I'd like to advice that this swap is 10x harder to do on the old ea71 series cars than an ea81/82. I have put about a year and a half worth of research and trial and error into this. Not really something i can explain in just one PM.
but i'll give you a little shakedown. first off, the ej22 doesn't quite fit... it'll go in, but all in all it doesn't fit... you need to widen your framerails about half an inch on each side. i did this with a MAPP torch and a hammer. keeping in mind i will be reinforcing it later.
second, the old trans crossmember doesn't fit, BUT you still kinda need it for your swaybar and extra support. a notch or maybe even the centre section of the xmember has to be removed. (i haven't quite gotten there yet)
i am running 2.5RS front knuckles. to do this you need to get in contact with gee at crossbread performance in australia. he makes them for the EA81 which fits in our cars. the only problem is the ea81 stabalizer bars are to short and are bolted on while the ea71's are welded on. you can either make new ones or do what i did and cut off the old ones and bolt them to the new control arms. i MIGHT end up welding them but i didn't really want to ruin the powdercoating on the control arms. tie rods fit fine in the 2.5RS knuckles.
next issue with this 2.5rs setup is the stock struts and springs don't fit in the towers. i solved this by getting coilovers. (mine are rally coilovers and are expencive but you can get cheap ones for about 300 bucks)
with this setup you can also adjust the heigh and springrates so your car isn't doing a nosedive due to the extra weight.
now if you plan on lifting it then most of this stuff doesn't apply because through the lift blocks you can accomodate for an ea81 or 82 front xmember and you'll have pleanty for the tranny clearance.
next issue is the rad. now i THINK an ej rad will fit, but i had a performance core put in the stock one just before i desided to swap so i'm keeping it. you don't really have enough clearance for the fan to go on the engine side (just like the normal ej swaps) but on mine i actually ended up moving the rad to the driverside about 2 inches and pivoting the bottom out toward the front of the car because the stock pipe on the rad is only about half an inch from the timing belt cover.
you will also have to relocate your battery because the stock airbox goes right where your battery is. i'm moving it to the back of the bed for better weight distribution. also, the stock airbox doesn't fit... i just cut the bottom off mine and turned it upside down so the panel filter is facing up. a cheap quick fix for now, but a cone filter would be best.
you're right about the driveshaft. it has to be lengthened as the ea71 trans is significantly longer then the d/r. also new holes in the trans tunnel need to be made for the shift linkages. (i haven't done this yet so i don't have a lot of info for you)
the front driveshafts have to be shortened aswell because the ej cars are about 6 inches wider then the ea71. now if you're using a standard non turbo dual range you CAN use your stock axles. but to me this is crazy as you are over doubling the power of the car but it still stops like ************. (i even had rear discs on the brat before the swap and it still didn't stop to well)
also, if you're using a non turbo trans then stock 2.5RS front axles won't fit as they are 25 spline while non turbo are 23 spline. if you're upgrading your front knuckles for bigger brakes and you're running a 23 spline car then get the front knuckles from a 93 ej18 FWD impreza. these had ej knuckles BUT had 23 spline axles.
i am also running a serge tank. weather i need it, i don't know, but i'm running one anyways just for simplicity. i'm running the stock ej22 charcoal can and replacing the ea71 can with the serge tank. (almost perfect size)
run the stock fuel pump for that then run your high pressure stuff seperately off the serge tank. i'm also using the now empty line from the fuel tank (line used to be for the charcoal can return line) for my engine return line. BE CAREFULL WITH THIS. this line runs back then into the rear quarter panel where it goes into ANOTHER charcoal can. you have to rerun the line from that point onwards into the tank. i'm using the rubber line from the filler neck and cutting it in half, adding a sleave and running my return line off of that. i'm sure there are a couple different ways to do this. also, i'm not sure if this line is large enough to use as the return line. it's very small.
i'm kinda jumping around here on ideas but i hope this gives you an idea on what needs to be done.
if any other questions then gimmy a shout. i'm happy to help out. as i said at the beginning of this, i consider this message a shakedown. there are dozens of little problems i've had to tackle with and i'm sure you'll have to do the same.
if you wanna talk more then i'm on msn fairly often if you use it. zefy_88@hotmail.com
talk to you later,
Greg,
just glancing over this i've changed a few things including the fuel system. it is now running a racing style fuel cell so no surge tank and no stock tank. i am using the oem fuel line as my return line and a SS braided line as my high pressure line.
my full build can be found here. MOST of the stuff i've done is on there.
http://www.carfreeks.net/showthread.php?t=2686
hope that helps.
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Anyone make progress on their gen 1 EJ swaps? All I've done is day dream.
mine has been put on hold once again due to insane amount of snow... my car tent collapsed on my brat...
That thing has lasted 3 years and with me cleaning it off twice a day it still fell. There was so much snow that after i brushed it off the snow level was at the height of the tent so when it snowed again there was no place to brush it to!!!
either way, i wanna jump back into it after the snow melts (buried under more snow and multiple tarps...)
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i could probably go for a set of door weather strips for the 79 brat. i'm also still interested in the damn kamei front lip!!!! SOMEBODY MAKE THEM! (or let me make them!!!! sell me one!!!!!)
seriously... most of the replies i've got about them have been 'neener neener neener! i have one and you don't!)
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79 brat
ej22
RX 5sp FT4WD dual range
170k miles ish... maybe...?
$900. before all the BS
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look around on ebay and other such places for JDM gauge cluster... they look a little better. pricey though.
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cool. i am currently running these:
and
pretty bright. (especially with 120W bulbs)
they are the same ones my uncle has on his bmw. direct fit, no modding.
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Can't quite decide - is it the halogen headlights, the electronic disty or the massive 14" alloys?
which headlights do you have/referring to?
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got any pics of this car cover dealy?
caboobaroo is not the only one with gen2 control arms in his gen 1... mine have 2.5rs brakes on them to boot!
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Watch the WRC round when they do the Rally of Finland, all the cars have very skinny rubber, cutting through the snow is better than the wide footprint.
rally finland is in august... no snow to be seen.:-\
you're thinking of the sweden or norway.
something like this...
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i would have to finish the project before i could use it...
it is a pretty tight fit but with a little finagling you shouldn't have to chop stuff up. the starter sits REALLY close to the brake lines coming off the booster and you need a different clutch cable to make it work.
oh and it also uses turbo axles so you need to either get different axles with matching hubs, custom axles, different stubs in the trans, there are lots of ways to solve this problem.
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i am running the same transmission in my gen1. should be neat!
you do need the vacuum actuator and solenoids for a C-Diff lock. don't forget those! (or you can just use a little lever for it... i might end up doing this however the throw on it is extremely small)
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from what i have researched there is no actual data backing up the DOHC won't fit story. I actually came across some interesting info that might lead me to believe that the DOHC is actually narrower than the SOHC.
if ANYBODY has data to prove me otherwise then please speak up. i don't have access on a regular basis to a dohc motor that i can tinker with and everytime i ask nobody is willing to go check...
the theory goes like this. on a SOHC motor the valves are at 60 degrees to each other, but on a DOHC motor the valves are at 90 degrees to each other so in theory, the dohc engines should be narrower at the back of the engine (where it hits the most). i heard this from a guy i never met, over the phone. so who knows!!?!???
take a measurement of your engine and report back and i will measure my ej22. put this question to rest in my mind.
the 2.5RS brakes and hubs were chosen because this is the largest brake i could get under there while maintaining OEM 15" wheels for gravel tires and the like. i could spend big bucks on gravel wheels at which point i could go 4pots but that is to much money. 2.5 brakes on a car 700lbs lighter will be fine. the splines are the same on the RX trans, 2.5RS, WRX, etc. standard struts and springs don't fit into the front shock towers. you will have to get coilovers of some kind. i made a big mistake of getting coilovers with external reservoirs (and now remote) and it it's been nothing but trouble.
the ONLY ej sohc turbo motor came in the old turbo legacys... exactly the same dimensions as the ej22 found common for these swaps but with a turbo on it.
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good luck with your build.
nice to see others getting up to the task... the gen1 is an amazingly difficult car to figure stuff out for.
i'm currently working on my 79 with ej22, RX trans, 2.5RS brakes and hubs all round. (the list is substantially longer than that but you get the idea)
although the parts you want to use are substantially newer the concept is very similar. not sure if you're on carfreeks.net but here is my build thread.
http://www.carfreeks.net/showthread.php?t=2686
and my photobucket with most of it.
http://s118.photobucket.com/albums/o95/Zefy_88/brat/?start=180
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Well part of the reason I wanted to go with an SVX setup is because of the longer control arms. I would like to widen my stance to better suit my widebody.
are the SVX control arms longer? That stuff i really don't know. Nor am i sure that svx control arms fit into ej crossmembers. would be interesting to find out.
sti control arms are longer and the spec C ones are really long. (if you can find some)
the problem with doing this is your camber goes up as you push the control arm out. increasing handling along with tire wear. most people i've seen with widebody kits get different offset wheels to have them stick out more along with wider wheels and tires. (after all, that's the point of the widebody, fat tires!)
with sti stuff you also get brembo brakes which a lot of people parting out cars will sell as a complete set. then all you'd need is a 6speed swap or custom axles.
another issue with the svx stuff is coilovers are hard to get for them. I'm not sure about the hub situation on if they will fit or not but most people with svx's end up custom building their coilovers.
would be cool to see pics of your project.
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svx suspension is substantially different as well...
if you want to run the bigger hubs you will need (pretty much) the entire suspension setup from an 05-07 sti.
best advice to you would be to hop over to nasioc and sell your coilovers and buy some that are properly suited to your car.
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the ea71 wasn't made in 87. what car is this out of?
sounds like a pretty neat build. what cam you gonna run? if you're doing all this other stuff might as well get a delta regrind or something.
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For your application i would recommend thule 450 towers. These would be better than the lowriders because they are rated to 165lbs vs. 100lbs on your vehicle. (this is specific to your outback, not to the towers themselves)
you should be able to fit 2 bikes with a kayak on there depending on how you want to carry them. 58" bars would probably be a good call as well just so you have the extra room to play with. (also if you find they are to long, you can cut them down to length. 50" and 58" are the same price)
what kind of kayak is it? ocean/lake/whitewater? plastic/fiberglass/kevlar? tandem? weight?
to determine which kayak system is best for you these things are important.
what kind of bikes do you have? mountain? road? full suspension? carbon fiber? weight? knowing these things will help determine what kind of bikerack is best for you. something like the raptor only works properly with a bike with a standard triangle shape frame. if you have a full suspension bike or an oddly shaped frame the raptor can have difficulties holding onto the bike.
some pics of the bikes would be nice just to be certain.
I am a rack 'specialist' from rackattack. hope this helps.
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1.8 heads will not increase hp by much for a 2.2 but i have an ej18 in the BRAT so using the 22 shortblock would increase power. technically there's enough parts to build both.
correct. using an ej22 block with ej18 heads will increase power because it is a larger motor. it will not be a high CR motor. it will pretty much be a stock ej22.
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ej22 with ej18 heads won't bump up the compression. they are nearly identical.
ej25 with ej22 heads is where you get the higher CR.
with that in mind, go turbo.
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the light they produce is not super bright but it is enough to read a map or something.
the stock unit has one plastic bolt that threads into the roof however this one has a bunch of little holes on a removable bracket. i welded this removable bracket to a piece of flat bar then connected the light as normal.
it shines in the middle on the center of the dash however the mirror can be rotated so you can point it from the driverside to the passenger side. worked really well in the brat. i would show a demo pic of the light produced but i don't have it wired up (or the car for that matter).
you can see the plate i made in the first pic.
not sure how this would work on an ea81 car.
EJ-25 head bolts torque
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
never heard of Ti bolts for subies however there are ARP head stud kits available for the motors. not particularly cheap though.
they are torque to yield bolts so they stretch after they are tightened up. The reason for all the weird tightening scheme is to stretch them slowly and safely. It is a very good call to follow the standard procedure and really, for the amount time you spend torquing a the bolts properly will save you from doing it again in the near future.