vwbuge1

yes. I turn on the MP3 player with it plugged into the aux port in the console, then hit "aux" on the head unit.....nothing.

I just picked up my 2008 Outback. I tried plugging in my phone and also my MP3 player to the aux input. I am getting nothing.

I was always told NOT to cover the heated seats due to thermostat failure issues. Is this true? Has anyone covered their heated cloth seats?

I wanted to paint the chrome grill on my 2008 Outback. Has anyone done this? Should I just scuff, paint and clear? I could not post this in the "exterior" section of the forum.

Thanks for all the replies. I just put my Jeep up for sale and hope to soon get back to Subaru. I was looking at the 2.5XT but I don't want to deal with turbo if the car lacks maintenance history. I want the extra power but never considered the 3.0. I am looking to spend around $15k so I am thinking I can get a 2007-2009 with just under 100K miles.

I have been looking for an Outback but have not paid much attention to the L.L. Bean editions with the 3.0L 6cyl. From reading I see these make great power and do not suffer from the HG issues the 2.5L did. Anything else you can tell me about them? How are they holding up? How is the MPG compared to the 2.5? Timing belts in them?

What is the difference between a 2.5xt and a 2.5gt?

Long time Subaru owner but I have been out of the game after being burnt with my 2000 Outback and its issues. I am looking to get back into it. Dealer has a 2005 Legacy Outback 2.5XT with 5 spd trans. 115,000 miles. It doesn't look bad in the pictures and it has a fairly decent maintenance record on the Carfax. The salesman called and said it is probably a car they will be shipping off to auction. If the car is sold outright it is going as-is. He made the car sound pretty beat. He wouldn't give me an outright price but told me to come take a look and make an offer. How is the track record for these cars? I am drawn toward the turbo and 5 spd but have been out of the game for a while. Was the headgasket issue cleared up by 2005? Any insight would be greatly appreciated!

Do tell. It will not hurt to try it.

Since he got the car with just over 100k it has had the 20-30 mph shimmie but very light. That has gotten worse as the 50-60 shimmie came on. The 50-60 shimmie is so bad it will cause the car to shake side to side. Car now has 150k. I didn't see anywhere that has the center carrier bearing available. Wondering what would be more cost effective: take a chance on a junkyard driveshaft OR drop the current one and install new carrier and bearing and new u joints.

My dad's '97 Outback has a shake that develops between 20-30mph under acceleration. It then goes away and returns really heavy between 50-60mph. At that speed I can shift into neutral and it will go away. I have checked play in both front axle shafts, they are similar and do not seem out of the ordinary. I believe the culprit is the center support bearing for the driveshaft. I had similar symptoms on one of my other cars. I climbed under last night and pushed on the driveshaft near the bearing. There is play there but how much is mormal?

PM sent.n thanks

I have narrowed down the problem on my dad's car to the solenoid or the BPT. I have looked in the classifieds section and I get no response. I also searched. Anyone have an EGR solenoid and BPT laying around?

EGR functions when vacuum applied. Solenoid?

No. Inspected and all seem fine.

'97 Outback 2.5L I have done several searched but still have questions. CEL came on and read this code. Car began running a little rough just before. Car will start and idle OK but upon acceleration it almost feels like the driveshaft bearing is shot. Anywhere from 20mph up it stumbles alot. Stop at stop sign and car seems fine. Haven't crawled under car yet to check other components. Last night I checked all lines going to EGR. Everything connected and seemed crack free. Took off EGR and sprayed with some MAF cleaner and reinstalled. Also sprayed out the BPT. While the car was running I disconnected line to EGR and applied vacuum and EGR moved and car began to idle rough. What do I do next? Also, where can I get the little inline filters for the system?

I noticed today that under acceleration it would have the wobble. When I would coast the wobble would go away. The wobble would then come back under decceleration. I crawled under car to have a look. When I grabbed the driveshaft it had some lateral play. Driveshaft support bearing?

150k miles. Plugs and wires not too long ago. At idle I pulled each wire from coil pack. Not plugs or wires. Didn't think vavles were to be adjusted on 2.5? Not a wheel balance issue. Could be axle but all boots on front axles are not ripped.

A few weeks ago my dad's '97 Outback was having what seemed like some torque bind issues. I put the AWD fuse in and he has been running it in FWD since then. The car was running well. Last week he told me the CEL was on and I checked the code. It was an EGR issue. I cleared the code and he kept driving it. It was running OK then last week he tells me it is running rough. Today I take it for a ride and it started and idles fine. When I put it in gear it began to idle rough. I checked the trans fluid and the level was fine. When you first start out it accelerates OK until about 20 mph. At that point the entire car seems to shake and shudder. The trans is shifting fine the entire time. Later this week I plan on changing the trans fluid and filter and inspecting all the driveshaft compnents. Any other ideas?

Just went out and stuck a fuse in. FWD light comes on in dash. No other lights. Took car for test drive and is smooth as silk. What is my next step? Change trans fluid and filter? Rear diff fluid change?

I have installed a fuse in an older model I had to try and acheive better gas mileage in the summer. I just couldn't remember what size to install. In the current vehicle there are no dash lights on.

How many amp fuse? So, if I put the fuse in and start the car and the AT TEMP light comes on duty C is bad? Enlighten me on duty c.

I have been driving my dad '97 Outback for a week now. He has always complained about poor fuel mileage. The car has 150k miles and has been taken car of. Hardly burns any oil between changes. Makes decent power. I recently replaced an o2 sensor and ran some fuel injector cleaner through. On the last tank of gas I got about 17mpg city driving. (auto trans) I did notice when turning and applying throttle there is a bit of hesitation and what feels to me like some torque bind. There are no lights on the dash. Could trans issue be contributing to the poor MPG? As soon as the weather breaks I plan on changing out the trans fluid/filter. For now, can I just put the AWD fuse in and disengage the system to see if this helps both issues? How long can I run the car with the fuse in place? I have searched torque bind issues and did some reading but I am still unclear on EXACTLY what causes it and the symptoms.

I sold my '91 Legacy wagon last year. I bought it with 112,000 miles in Jan of '97. I replaced axles a few times. Last time I replaced the timing belts I put on new oil pump, water pump and cam seals. All as preventative maint. I also replaced the 5spd AWD trans around 200k miles. Sold last year with 264,000 miles and still running great.

I am registered. thanks. Is your Audi the 4.2? That was my first choice until I ran across this car.