BluetoE

I replaced several studs when I did my engine swap last summer. I called every muffler shop in town looking for them and finally found some at a Midas place. They charged me 5 bucks for a handful of them. As far as the nuts go, I had to use regular nuts. The original nuts are rated at a much higher temperature, I'm sure, and locktite doesn't go up to 800 degrees IIRC. I figured I would just keep an eye on them and tighten as necessary. So far they aren't leaking. You could probably get replacement nuts from the dealership, but they will be pricey.

I guess you stumped 'em!

I was glad I was able to be there for moral support during the install. Now to track down that rough idle gremlin.

From what I understand, an EJ22 has an open deck and an EJ22T has a closed deck. The walls around the cylinders are much thicker on the 22T to handle the extra compression. You can put a turbo on a regular EJ22, but if you boost it too much you are going to go through head gaskets pretty quickly or worse. Also, the turbo has a completely different ECU, so you would have to swap a lot of wiring to make it work. Seems like a lot of work for just a few psi to me. Now if you find an EJ22T in good condition with the ECU etc and don't mind doing the whole swap, you should be good to go.

I used the "two putty knives and a screwdriver" method to separate the engine from the tranny and it worked like a charm. My friend that was helping me thought I was crazy and by the time it was over and done (3 minutes later) he was like "there might actually be something to this internet thing after all".

Hi all, I just wanted to stop by and thank everyone again for all of the information that is available here on USMB! Three months ago I successfully swapped my dead 1998 EJ25 phase 1 engine with a salvaged 1995 EJ22. The swap went off without a hitch, but I have been troubleshooting CELs, high idle speeds, and the engine flooding when warm starting. Turns out after getting all of the vaccum hoses matched up correctly, it started throwing a Coolant Temp Sensor code. I grabbed another sensor from the local dealership and installed it today. It has been running like a top ever since. No more high idle and it starts as it should now. No more flooding As a treat I gave the donor EJ22 a Seafoam treatment and changed the oil. The car runs so much better now than it did the day I bought it. I'm so happy I decided to go through with the engine swap. Thanks again, everyone. Now to put some mud on the tires!

I will take more pics tomorrow and give as much more information as I can. I disconnected the negative battery cable and the code is gone for now. \ Thanks!

Would this hose being disconnected cause a P0400 CEL? It's the last code I'm getting and it's new. Started when I unplugged this hose from the barometric pressure sensor to clear the P0401

Ok I have looked for hours and can't seem to find where this vacuum hose is supposed to go (red arrow): It is the lower hose coming out of a rust colored connector under the passenger side of the intake manifold. There is a very long hose attached to the connector and I can't find where it goes. Any ideas?

Just to clarify, even after towing the car with the rear wheels on the ground for 100 miles, it has NO torque bind at all. It had it bad when I bought the car almost 2 years ago and you are right, changing the ATF fixed it! That is a great tip! I never did a complete "flush" though. I was kinda scared to blow everything out of a tranny with almost 200k miles on it. I drained the 4 or so liters that come out of the pan 3 or 4 times over the course of a couple of weeks. It is red and clean now, but looked like swamp water when I drained it the first time

Hehe. Yeah. I got a LOT dirtier taking the dead Ej25 out . I still can't get over how smoothly the install went!

If you have any questions, feel free to ask. I took tons of pics and most of the steps are still fresh in my brain

Well, I went and pulled the CEL code... It was P0106 and sure enough, I found this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=84813 The hose with the filter was connected to the wrong sensor. The hose that was connected there goes to a rust colored sensor under the intake manifold and I'm not sure where it is supposed to go. The code is gone now, so I guess eventually it will throw a CEL and let me know where it needs to go. I might take a picture and see if anyone here has any ideas, but as of now everything seems to be ok. Thanks again

Alright, after almost two months of acquiring parts, cleaning stuff, replacing seals and o-rings, removing broken stuff, and drinking lots of beer my swap is finally done! She turned over on the first try! Everything was hooked up properly and so far there have been no leaks There was a lifter ticking on the passengers side for the first 10 minutes or so, but that went away. So far so good... I'm about to go troubleshoot a CEL, but I fully expected to have one since I didn't connect a charcoal cannister (I just looped the hose). I will let y'all know how that turns out. Thanks again for all of the advice and guidance throughout this process. Here are a few pics of the final install: EJ22 on its way in... She's in Everything hooked up Here she is purring like a kitten and me being dirty but happy And for anyone who remembers my original post after the engine blew: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100623 The tranny seems to be fine after towing the car 100 miles on a U-Haul dolly with a dead battery without removing the drive shaft She has zero torque bind also Thanks again everyone. I would not have attempted this without USMB!

Sorry. I have like 3 threads going on here at the same time, because it seems questions get answered faster when the question is in the title of the thread I had been just adding on to my original thread and asking questions as I went along, but ended up mostly talking to myself. hehe... Anyway, I'm doing a EJ22 swap into my 98 OBW. Some of the details and links to pics etc are in this thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=102010 I guess the easiest way for people to find answers to specific questions is to make a thread for each question. I thought that would clutter the board, but it seems a generic thread title is the "kiss of death" when you are looking for help. I'm on my way to the shop now to replace the oil separator plate on the EJ22 donor motor and finish seating the rear main seal and whatever else I have time for... I'm hoping to have the donor motor dropped in by the weekend.

I borrowed the engine hoist from a friend and he had the chain already attached to it. I would assume it came from a hardware store. There are lots more pics here on my Flickr stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/ It seems that I am about to max out the Flickr account, so I started a photobucket one here too: http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg234/bluetoe1337/Subaru%20Swap/

Ok after much much more research I have determined that my rear main seal needs to be a little farther in than flush. I am going to grab a 4" pvc cap on my way to the shop. Those seem to work pretty well.

Cool. Thanks. My EJ25 Phase 1 doesn't have them there. If they are somewhere else I am not sure. Now I know what to search for! Thanks a ton!

After removing the dead EJ25 (the upper passenger side cam won't turn at all), I am in the process of finishing up the EJ22. I took it off of the engine stand and removed the flex plate so I can now get to the rear main seal and the oil separator plate... Before I install the flex plate from the EJ25 and start dropping it into my Outback, can you guys please verify that my main seal is seated deep enough? The one on the EJ25 was seated below the metal outer ring, but pictures I have found on the boards show the seal a little above flush with the outer ring. Here is where it is now (there are about 2mm of seal showing above the outer ring: I used a coffee mug and rubber mallet to install the seal and it is firmly in place, I just don't want to force it too far in and have to start over... I have another seal just in case I mess this one up. Here is a pic of my improvised seal installer :

These 2 lines on the passenger side near the front of the engine (to the right of the power steering pump bracket) are different than on my dead EJ25. I have googled EJ22's and looked around some, but I figured you guys could tell me faster what I'm looking at: Thanks!

This post came in very handy today! I was able to check out the pic and determine that my TC stayed in place. Thanks so much!

I was able to pull the dead EJ25 today! The most important tip I found on this board before separating the engine from the tranny was: Use 2 sharp putty knives. Hammer one in the seam (I found going in on the passenger side where the engine has a lip that's higher than the tranny housing worked the best) then hammer another putty knife right next to the first one. Then take a large flathead screwdriver and hammer it between the 2 putty knives. It broke the seal and the engine slid right out. I jacked up the tranny to relieve the pressure on the studs at the bottom of the bell housing and the TC never moved. It couldn't have gone any smoother! Thanks so much guys for all of the information you share with all of us noobies! I've updated the Flickr stream with more pics, but here is my favorite: Here is the link to the full stream: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/sets/72157622005521244/

Today I removed the starter and all four bolts/nuts around the bell housing. I'm hoping to pull the 2.5 tomorrow. The lower bell housing nuts were tough to get to, but I used a 14mm shallow socket on a wobbler with an extension and a cheater bar and was able to get them loose. It took a while....

I've already done the valve cover gaskets and the rubber washers on the valve cover bolts. I ordered a metal oil separator plate from the dealership. I read after ordering it that I could have used the metal one from the EJ25, but oh well... I needed exhaust gaskets anyway. I had a breakthrough this afternoon. I was able to remove all 4 torque converter bolts! They were a pain. I've been updating my Flickr page every time I come home from the shop. Thanks for the input. Here is the link to my latest photo set: http://www.flickr.com/photos/28996847@N04/sets/72157621858520291/

I lifted the engine, removed the oil pan, got to a second bolt, removed the other 3 spark plugs, and the crank started turning! Lifting the engine helped a lot when removing the plugs. I guess it was compression and not seized after all. Beer time!