renob123
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Posts posted by renob123
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Subruise is referring to me. There was one Brat in Canada or NE Washington that had one before mine did, though.
Don't bother with any power beyond an EJ22 with Delta cams until you've worked out suspension, brakes, and drivetrain.
Jacob
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oh, It'll still haul butt..
I bypassed the wastegate to leave it closed.. i had a LOT of boost. I put it back on, still have a bit. but it bucks right when its supposed to boost.. either senerio :-/
would a faulty coil over do it?
-Justin
How did you bypass it? With a bracket? The wastegate could be opening early. Is the arm hooked up ok?
It sounds like a vacuum/boost leak, in that case.
Also, if you don't know the difference between a coil and a coilover, then you should take it to a shop:)
Jacob
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Can it get over 3-4,000 rpm at all? If not, it may be valet mode.
Jacob
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Actually, this has been done from what I am told. a couple guys local have done this even. One of them recently went with a bigger turbo and supporting mods, so he went with a stand alone, but the others made modifications to the ECU with some chip available from a guy on one of the forums.
Are you sure they weren't on an EJ20G/EJ20K ECU, though?
Jacob
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I've never heard of it; is the Group N ROM for an EJ22T? I don't know much about the EJ22T at all. I do have experience with the EJ20G.
I think it's a Group N ROM for an EJ20G/K. I wish I could find the link for it.
Jacob
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GD mentions hacking the EJ22T ECU here and I figured I'd start a new thread.
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1122169
So GD, first thing, does the ECU have pads for an EPROM socket? Maybe take a pic of the ECU board, high res so I can read the part numbers from the CPU.
You'll need one of the FTDI Select Monitor cables with the SSM connector (same as the stereo):
http://www.4bc.org/vanagon/engine.html
You might need this level converter (because of the "92 syndrome"), but I just hardwired the stereo connector to the FTDI cable and it works.
http://ecutune.com/ECUtuner.htm
And then get JECScan software here:
http://www.alcyone.org.uk/ssm/JECScan_1v2a.zip
Download the ROM (starting from address 0x8000, size 0x8000) to one file and the IO/RAM (address 0x0000, size 0x1500) to another. Then send them to me and I'll try to find the maps.
Do you have any info on the Group N roms? I know I've seen a pretty good site/post for them, but I couldn't find it.
Jacob
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I ran it no-load at high RPM and it was smooth, but still running lean. I am going to remap the ECU to get the mixture in the ballpark before driving it. The engine (and all the EJ22 parts) were working perfectly a week before doing the cams/shortblock so unless I messed something up during the engine work they should all be ok.
Where are your IDCs?
Jacob
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Sure thing. I'll also be releasing my modified ROM. What kind of ECU do you have?
Cool. I have an ECU from the '91-'93-ish era. I've always wondered what was going on inside of it.
I'm glad to hear you have it working ok. I'll ponder that dynamic compression ratio thing... I'm not driving the motor yet until I can get the map closer to normal, but maybe after some driving it will eventually learn the AFR. But right now at idle it's running very lean.How does it look when it's not idling? I'd guess it's not lean at higher RPMs/loads. Have you considered anything else to be your problem? Bad MAF/O2/Injectors/Plugs?
I can up the idle by turning the top electric adjustment, but then the computer can't close the loop at idle. Does yours still control the idle? What is your idle speed? You can see in the maps above that warmed-up idle for my ECU is 700 RPM.Don't bother with the top thing. I tried moving it all over the place, and it didn't help. Using the bottom adjustment helped, though. I'd phrase it this way. Right now, your IACV isn't controlling the idle. Mine is. Messing with the thing on the bottom gives the ECU/IACV some ability to adjust the idle. Right now yours could very well be pegged, with the conditions that are way outside of what the ECU is willing to do. I can't remember what my warm idle is. The car is in the shop for some work.
I understand what you're saying, but I'm not sure the difference in time between the throttle butterfly opening and the IACV opening is that much different, something more to ponder, hmm.Assuming the air travels at the same speed, then yes, I'd guess the difference in time is minimal. I don't know anything about fluid dynamics, but I'm betting the air takes less time to get to the cylinder when it has 2 places to go vs. 1 place to go, at least when both places are summoning the air with vacuum. So sometimes the air gets to the cylinders quickly, and the injectors need to fire soon, and sometimes the air takes a bit longer. That is totally my rudimentary understanding, though. Cobb would probably have a way better explanation. Maybe williaty on NABISCO would as well.
Jacob
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Thanks for your reply!
You couldn't, until I found the map locations and created a new entry in the RR XML file. :cool:
I may want to get in on that. Mostly out of curiosity, though.
What do you mean adjustment of the IACV on top and bottom? The top being the electrical part and the bottom being the valve itself? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the IACV is also metered through the MAF, right? So even if it's wrong it still should have a good AFR.It's possible I didn't hook something up right, or introduced a vacuum leak somewhere, but I went over everything a couple times and it seems ok. I guess I can borrow a smoke machine sometime. GeneralDisorder mentioned a while back that frankenmotor+cams is too much for the OBD1 ECUs which seems to be the case for me.
I'm trying to get some insight into how the cams and frankenmotor change the effective AFR.
I'm happy with my Frankenmotor+cams and OBDI ECU. It took a long time to figure out the idle, though. I guess it has something to do with the overlap reducing dynamic compression which reduces the vacuum. We're dealing with a limited sample size, so I think it's too early to tell whether you're unlucky, or I'm lucky, or if there's some magic step to take that will help everyone. To me, my Frankenmotor just feels like an engine that has cams. If you've been to a "hot rod" show (aka: cars that just sit there show), then you'll know how a car with cams will behave.
For the IACV, yes, I'm talking about the bottom one. The top is the electric thing with an electric plug on it. The bottom will have a hex on it so you can use a socket wrench on it. The electric thing didn't help. Turning the hex on the bottom helped. Yes, the air has been metered. However, my understanding is that in a MAF car, under some conditions, the time between when the air is metered and when it is used in combustion matters. If a ton of air gets metered, then the computer expects to dump a ton of fuel some time down the line. Lengthen or shorten that time, and you'll get lean/rich conditions. That's why STIs could use a retune after the addition of most aftermarket intakes.
Does that sound reasonable?
Jacob
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Huh. I hadn't realized you could use RR on a '92 ECU.
I have no idea about the tuning part. I ended up getting a pretty good idle on mine by adjusting the IACV. The upper adjustment didn't do much, but the adjustment on the bottom helped a lot. If you're running lean due to unmetered air, then I'd bet on the IACV over air sneaking through the exhaust valves.
Jacob
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My 2 (well, 3, I guess) suggestions still apply to your case. Hydro or 200SX rear calipers.
Jacob
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The two options I know of are to swap to rear calipers that have an e-brake bracket on them (obk25xt is selling some, BTW) or swap to a hydraulic e-brake, which would make you less street legal.
Jacob
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It loses something in translation!
Isn't group N some kind of class in racing? I've always kinda figured that was why they called them group N mounts.
Update time! Got the new motor mounts in, big difference. Mostly noticeable when starting, I can feel the engine shaking the whole car, and you can definitely hear it more. When removing the mount plates from the old mounts the mounts would twist and the upper and lower plates hit each other before the nuts would crack loose. The Megan mounts barely moved when tightening. They also lifted the engine up about 1/4", maybe more. I had to jack up the transmission to get the pitch mount bolt to go back in.
More of the slop is gone, but not all of it, so I know I have more work to do. One of the front control arm bushings is leaking, so thats on the list now as well, after I get the new tires put on because I ran something over and cut a giant hole in one this weekend. So far though, I'm pretty pleased with the mounts. The shifter doesn't kick around front back and side to side anymore when I acc/decelerate, seems to have made it easier to find gears. Not that it was difficult before or anything.
I didn't know there were different mounts, they bolted to the factory mount plates from my car just fine. I did notice though, the Megan mounts seem to be about 1/4" wider. They overhang the mount plates, the stock mounts did not. Still fit just fine though.
Yes, you'd have no problem bolting them onto a '96. Round mounts are present somewhere around 2006-ish.
I've heard good things about this as your next upgrade:
http://turninconcepts.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_9_10_1496_1499_1506&products_id=186
Jacob
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ivan, you feeling OK?
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I noticed you used a period.
Jacob
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funny, misleading title for euros... round here a Group N Megan(e) means this
I drove a Megane along the Autostrade from Roma to Firenze. It was hard to give that car back to the rental agency. Mine wasn't a Group N one, though.
Oh, I forgot to mention the other thing about these mounts. If you have the round motor mounts, then you'll need the metal plate that attaches to these square ones. The Megan package doesn't come with them. If you get the mounts from a dealership or something, then they usually do come with the plate.
Jacob
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Well the pitch mount before swapping the trans mount was just at the very end of the elongated holes in the bracket on top of the trans. With the Megan mount in place the pitch mount had moved back by about 1/8". The old trans mount I can easily twist and move with just my hands. I don't think I could move the Megan mount with a sledge hammer. That thing is a rock.
Yeah, I told you the stock transmission mount would be a joke. My work blocks my pics. Now that I can see your pics, I know mine weren't chipping like that.
Jacob
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Just paid $67 each for KYB's [Excel G] from Auto Parts Warehouse, including shipping.
I'll say it as many times as that place gets posted here. Autopartswarehouse has incredibly poor service. It'll be fine if the order goes totally according to plan and you don't need to call them or do any warranty claims or anything.
I'd rather pay a few extra bucks (if that) for the extra protection and knowledge that I won't get treated like isht on the phone.
Jacob
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I've done this upgrade twice now. A few things:
1) The pitch stopper is the same as an STI one. It's widely accepted that it will make no difference at the power levels that just about anyone on this board is making.
2) The price of the official Group N engine and transmission mounts from Subaru is about the same as this kit. You just don't get the pitch stopper.
3) Mine weren't spray painted, I don't think. They honestly looked like Group N mounts with a Megan sticker on them.
4) Your car will feel a lot more solid and predictable, and it'll be easier to shift. The stock transmission mount is a joke compared to the one in this kit. You'll feel a little more side-to-side vibration, but the "connection" to the car that is gained was well worth it to me.
5) I did this swap on cars whose mounts were 1 and 6 years old. Doing the swap on 15-year-old mounts will probably be substantially more rewarding.
Jacob
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As far I know the Cobb upgrade list goes like this: ECU and exhaust first and then if you feel like it you can add their intake but it isn't necessary for performance. That speaks volumes.
That's certainly the first part of the standard upgrade path for Subarus with turbos. Cams and headers make the biggest difference on an NA Subaru that I've seen, though, with cams probably making the most power/$.
Keep in mind that an STI can make substantial power with the stock airbox, but then, there used to be pictures on NABISCO of a guy who got his hand sucked into the turbo while tuning. NA Subarus don't quite have that same ability to pull in crazy amounts of air. Williaty's hybrid intake and the old-school Ganzflow are the only two intakes I know of that are backed with any form of measurement.
To the OP: We can't decide if it's worth the trouble for you. That's up to you. If you like flushing money down the toilet, then go ahead and purchase the WeaponR.
Jacob
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You should start here, in addition to searching:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=73676
You'll want the front crossmember from a turbo Brat so you can fit the up-pipe. You'll also need lots of time and money for unexpected issues. For example, that engine will show you how badly you need better mounts, brakes, and suspension.
Jacob
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i have an 02 obw, and its great in every feild. except my approach angle is lacking considerably.. ive torn the heck out of my front bumper from rocks and stuff.. any thoughts on what i can do to make it better rather than blowing 2 grand on an ausie bumper? mods of somesort?
There are bumpers made in the US by a few people for your car. You can probably find one by searching on here.
You can also improve your approach angle by lifting the whole car. Primitive Racing in Oregon sells King Springs, which will lift your car. The other way would be taller tires, but that would mess up your speedo readings.
Jacob
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here is the car as 00 at an older rally driven by its previous owner, and my car in front
an interior shot from Oregon Trail
Were you there? What car did you have?
Jacob
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I was there. I saw them once in service, and once in a Parc Expose, but they were pretty elusive during the day. I wanted to have a peek inside and take some pics, but I never got close enough.
Jacob
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EA82 stage rally days
in Rally/Racing
Posted
Great post, 'Chux.
Jacob