4byRoo

Got another project that needs my garage space, attention, and, of course, money Just bought it a few weeks ago. 192k miles, 5 speed, s/r 4WD, wagon, red/maroon in color, near perfect grey interior, manual windows/locks, roof rack. Brand new: ignition coil, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, front pads and rotors, battery, axle-back muffler. Just had rear diff flushed, front was fine. Passed MA emissions inspection with flying colors. Failed for rear tires (juuuust barely didn't make it) and an exhaust leak at the driver's side exhaust gasket to the engine. I went through the exhaust from front to back, sanded and painted the pipes, replaced the muffler, all of the gaskets, and replaced three of the four studs that hold the y pipe to the block. One is stripped - it will need to be filled with aluminum and retapped. I've had estimates of anywhere between 50-100. Other than that the exhaust is perfect. Quirks: It runs a little warm after driving for over 30 minutes on the highway. It has NEVER overheated, just run around 75-80% of the gauge. Turning on the defroster puts it right back to the middle. My guess is a clog in the radiator. Needs a slight alignment, pulls to the left. The dash clock dims erratically. Every once in a while it grinds slightly while going into third or reverse...works perfectly fine though. Can't seem to get the driver's door to lock by key or by the latch inside. Can't get the key in the tailgate lock. Driver's side fender needs to be (or at least should be) replaced; rust has gotten the better of it, but duct tape has given it new life to get through inspection. This also applies to the passenger rear quarter at the rear of the wheel well, though much less severe. Light surface rust around the windshield. Gotta go soon. Call me on my cell at 617-306-8780 if you're interested or have questions. Thanks!

Turns out it was a fuel pump kill switch wired into the hazard switch. Weird Oh well, that's better than it being a huge problem!

90 Loyale Wagon, FI, non-turbo, 5 speed. Cranks, but won't start. Doesn't seem to crank faster, so I don't think it's the timing belt, but will check it anyways. When turning the car to on, no noise from the fuel pump...is this normal? I'll use a meter to check the voltage, but I was wondering if not hearing it kick on was unusual. I had a 93 Escort wagon (enduro race car) that had an inertia switch mounted in the cargo area, that once switched, would cut out fuel. If this was switched, the car would crank but not start. This is exactly what the Subaru is doing...but I can't seem to find anything about a similar switch. Was running and driving fine a few days ago, pulled it out of the garage and parked it, went to start it, and it was doing this. I find it hard to believe that the fuel pump just up and quit on me, same with the t-belts, but I've had stranger things happen. Checked all fuses under dash. None blown. Made SURE I was pushing clutch through the floor. Also checked the plugs and wires, as this same thing happened when I had replaced the dist. cap on my Jeep with a crap no name brand and it was on wrong. Same symptoms - wouldn't start, just crank over and over. One side note. There is a family living next door with small children (6-8 yrs old) that love to get into my cars. Oddly enough, the fuel door was popped during the time between when I drove it out of the garage and when I tried starting it again. Is there any way they might have put dirt or something into the fuel tank to cause this scenario? Thanks in advance guys.

Well, this is my daily driver, and probably won't see much offroad, as I have a Jeep dedicated for that. I don't need anything too big, and I also don't want to lose too much power by getting tires too big for the wimpy engine to turn. I just want some better grip in the snow and a wider wheel and tire to handle better. I'm also not finding any pug wheels either.

Forgetting the turbo, thanks guys Subaru styles, I swear you're the only guy in the world with a subie wagon that looks as good as yours does (not as an offroad vehicle, I mean.) Nice work, seriously. Anyone on the D/R swap? If it ain't gonna be fast, I may as well look at other things. Oh, and what's the biggest tire/rim combo I can get under the car stock? I'm gonna custom fab a bigger lift next summer, but until then, the stockers gotta go.

It's only a pushbutton single range. And it's definitely a loyale, and those began in '90, if I'm not mistaken, and that's what year this is. If I get a hold of a turbo wagon for cheap, what would need to be taken, and what's shared? Block/head, tranny, etc? Ignition system? Is it as simple as changing the ECU and intake/exhausts?

Can't seem to find any solid answers, so posting my own. Just bought a 90 loyale 4wd MT wagon. Need to put a new timing belt in. Has 190k on it. Got car for free, so want to see if there's anything I can do to make this more fun to drive. First, can I put the D/R 4wd in it, and if so, what do I need? Second, can I put the factory turbo system on it, and if so, what do I need? Finally, I need a pair of fenders, and a set of wheels and tires. Anyone in the NE area, please email or IM me. Thanks in advance!

bump! help me out guys, its 60 degrees!!

Hahaha, yeah, me and my Eagle I have an 89 GL waggy. the driver's side window alone is controlled by a control unit? Where is this control unit, how much would a "new" used one run me, how easy is it to install?

BUmp to the top...got the same problem and we got a heat wave here in MA...I gotta get my window workin! Here's my deal-tried a whole separate window switch rump roast'y, still no luck. The driver's door window switches don't work for ANY of the windows. The other three doors work fine when their own switch is used. So the chances of it being the motor is slim I looked in the door jab, played with the wiring going through but there didn't seem to be anything out of the ordinary, and messing with it made no change. I'm all for wiring a new switch if need be, but this can't be that hard to fix. Please help us

Ok, I have an 89 GL auto PB 4wd, and I want a turbo 5 spd DR If I buy a turbo wagon 5speed, will I have to swap the engine, or are they the same minus the turbo? I know with my eclipse they were two completely different engines, etc...but wasn't sure how the subees did it. Feel free to rag on me

PS-Anyone in the New England Area want to help me do a 5spd swap? Dinner and beer for your services...

Hrm...intake and exhaust...where can I go 'choppin for those? Ebay is useless. Cams...I dunno. This is my daily driver, I have enough toys (did I just say that?) The one thing this has to be is reliable...and I dunno if internals is on the list of reliability increasers Let me know where I can find some cheap bolt ons...homemade is always good too, as this was a cheap car to begin with

Haha, as I'm a member of many boards for many cars...I knew I was gonna get flak for the search function Thanks man...I'll check that out. I do it every time too...just post away without searching. It's people like me that waste bandwidth. Look, I'm doing it now, just talking about wasting bandwidth... lol, I suck!

Aww look, you're a poet and didn't know it! oh! I'll try locking the driver's door when inside. So they operate on the lever switch....veeeery interesting. I thought they were vaccuum operated, like the old volv-hos. Lights on for safety!