CJK440

Anybody have any pics??? The ones I was interested in were the 5 star type.

Anybody know if they will bolt on fine or have issues??

Anyway to clean the EGR on my 96 Legacy? I am getting a code and figured I'd look at it before I replace it.

It'll blow. A 20 won't blow but the clutch still slips.

The A/c system in my 96 Legacy GT crapped out. It keeps blowing the 10 amp AC fuse. If I temporarily jump the fuse the compressor clutch engages but starts to slip (you can see the clutch hub spinning with the belt then it skips etc). I assume the solenoid that engages the clutch is bad, its burnt out which doesn't grab like its supposed to and draws more amps than it should. I checked with chain parts stores and they want $300 for a compressor but don't list the clutch seperate. Any way to fix the clutch on this reasonably or should I look for a junkyard part.

Can anybody tell me where the relays are for the power locks in my 96 Legacy? All the doors lock when the pass side lever it hit but they don't always unlock. I found the door lock timer under the dash and it has tiny relays on that. Are those the only relays?? I'm pretty sure the switch is good because I feel & hear the relays click on the timer if I lock or unlock it.

My 95 Legacy GT's power locks are acting up. If I lock the drivers side they all lock but they don't always unlock. I found the "Door lock Timer" under the dash. It has small relays on it. Are these the only relays??? I don't think its the actual door switch since when I actuate it, I can feel the relay click in the door timer. Maybe just a dead relay?

Mine is acting up too. It decided to stop working now. When I press the button to open it I hear a click like a relay clicking up in the roof near the drivers sun visor. Doesn't budge though.

I noticed that my 96 Legacy blows some blue smoke at startup when cold, it goes away in a few seconds. On any other engine I would say this is valve seals leaking but am not sure with this engine arrangement. The car has 94k miles on it. 2.5L DOHC. What should I look for??

I took the car to autozone. They scanned it and it showed the knock sensor code. I assume this was a residual memory code so I had the guy clear it. Lights off and all seems good.

My stock 15's are peeling and I figured I can get a set of aftermarket alloys for my 96 Legacy GT. The lug pattern is 5 on 100mm circle right??? What about backspacing & rim width?? Any sites that tell me what my car can use???

Any way to pull codes off my 96 Legacy without a scanner??? Like jumping some pins on the diagnostic connector and reading the Check engine light??? How about clearing codes??? Do I need a scanner to clear the codes???

OK, Took off old sensor, it had a white plug and the plastic body was cracked. I bought a new sensor, installed it (easy) and light is still on. I undid the batterey for 1 minute to clear it and nothing. ???? Maybe I have another issue.

I'm familiar with a part time 4wd system, the bind occours due to the fact that the front diff carrier rotates at a different speed than the rear when going around turns. To prevent the binding a center "differential" needs to be used to allow the carriers to spin at different speeds. The Lecacy has something like this I guess. A viscous coupling?? Not familiar with the inner workings. My car is an automatic. I am not sure of tire circumference. The tires, allthough the same brand and size are shot and need replacing. But irregardless of my tire curcumference something has to give when turning. The operates fine in regular driving and regular turns. Only when the wheel is locked to one side does it feel like there is a bind. Maybe its a CV joint getting near lock, not sure. I just heard that "torque bind" is a common ailment of these cars and wondered if what I was experinceing was that.

Is the 97 up GT hood the same as the Outback scooped hood??

What is torque bind that I hear so much of???? My 96 Legact GT AWD feels like something is binding when backing up or going forward with the wheel locked to one side. It still movs at idle but its not smooth, like something is binding or dragging. It drags then releases, drags again and so on. Is this normal???

I have a 96 Legacy GT that has a regular flat hood. I guess the GT's didn't get scoops till 97. The hood has some damage and istead of fixing it I would like to buy a scooped hood and have it painted. Will a later year hood with the scoop fit?? What years should I look at?????

Hmm, its that easy to swap out??? I took a look through my Haynes manual to just get an idea as to the size of the job and they get into how the intake manifold needs to be removed to get at the thing. Its a 96 Legacy GT with the 2.5L DOHC.

I just changed the timing belt. The light was on before I did it, I disconnected the battery and the light was on after too.

How do I reset it, just disconnect the battery???

I have a check engine light on my 96 Legacy GT. It was scanned and shows a knock sensor problem. I changed plugs, undid the battery and no difference. Should I look at the sensor itself?? Any way to test it???? Would a tank of 87 octane cause a check engine light when Subaru recomends 91 octane??? I recently filled it with 93 but after I pulled the battery cable so maybe the fuel change helped but the computer is still showing the old fault.

96 Legacy GT

Yesterday I changed the timing belt, water pump, plugs, wires pcv, air, fuel & oil filters and oil in just a few hours. I must admit I am impressed on how easy it is to work on this thing. About the toughest thing to do was remove the spark plugs since I had to really jam my big hands into the engine bay. Not to shabby. I have all but avoided foreign cars in the past and this is really the most work I have ever done on an import. My "other" vehciles include a 96 Dodge Ram 5.9, 95 Mustang GT 5.0 and a 71 440 Cuda all with good ole american V8's. I am truely impressed with this car's construction.

I didn't have a strap wrench for removing the crank bolt so I used the alt/power steering belt wrapped around the crank and alternator and double-backed over itself. A little hand pressure on the belt kept alot of grip on the crank pulley. Take the belt and place it over both pulleys. To remove the bolt take the slack on the driver side and push it in to the pass side. Let the slack feed under the belt as it wraps over the crank pulley and slowly rotate the crank. The belt will jam under itself and as long as you keep the belt from slakening it will allow you to loosen the crank bolt. Probably not the best for the belt (end up with a kink) but worked great.

Nice link. From what I see now the marks on the timing belt sprockets aren't supposed to line up at TDC. Since the manual was asking me to line that up first I was under the impression that everything would be lined up. Not the case I guess. Looks like I'm doing it right.