c150L
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Posts posted by c150L
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Thanks Skip.
I am aware of torque bind. The tires are all getting down there, but look equal. Perhaps in the last quarter of their life.
I did hear that these DOHC engines are interference engines. Do you know if the interference is valve VS piston or is it valve VS valve?
Head gaskets, ay?
Not looking like much chance for the service records, but he's still trying.
Thanks again,
Dale
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My boy is looking at a 1997 Outback wagon. All I know if 100,000 miles, manual trans (5 speed?) AWD.
He said it runs and drives smooth but has what sounds like a rear wheel bearing going out.
Said it sounds exactly like a wheel bearing but I was wondering if there were any issues with rear differentials in these.
Any other thoughts or suggestions, I much appreciate.
If anyone has access, a CarFax might be handy.
VIN: 453BG6855V6642421
Thanks in advance,
Dale
P.S., My oldest boy bought a 92 (can't think of model) auto, AWD 4 door, now middle boy looking at this OBW. I'm getting jelous!. I have not had a Sube since I sold my XT-6, which I miss dearly.
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And OH! I would not have traded my air suspension in my XT6 for anything. If I'd come across another, I'd also keep it air.
You know how to make the ride height change?
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the front did expel a tiny bit of air when i pulled the line, but not much at all, very little. leak checking coming....
Gary, As I recall, both of the fronts, if low, should be should open at the same time and air should be sent to bring both fronts to height before either rear solenoid would open. If the rears are above normal height, the rears should release air before any other action happens with th e fronts.
I beleive, when ever the compressor is on, the tank solenoid opens. When the tank reaches pressure, the compressor would shut off and take care of maintaining strut height. Kind of like the compressor takes care of teh tank and the tank takes care of airing the struts.
I remember the fronts being real doggy to start to rise, if totally deflated. I sometimes jacked the fronts, just to get them off bottom dead center. The rears take air almost immediatly.
The computer will try any one operation 8-10 minutes, expecting that situation to be taken care of, then go to the next. Any one condition, which is not handles in that 8-10 minutes, the puter shuts itself down and blinks the light, until the key is cycled again.
Keep in mind, if you have a rear that is too high, the compressor will stop and the rear solenoid should open to relase air from a high condition. I have had a couple compressors with problems on the discharge soleniod. I did discect a discharge soleniod or 2 and revive them.
I had one control puter that had a bad transistor in it, which was not sending the ground signal to the discharge solenoid. While I was waiting for a replacement transistor, I ran a wire to the test plug, to manually energize the discharge solenoid, until the compressor kicked in again.
If you can locate the 4 pins in the test plug, for the 4 strut solenoids, you could try airing up each strut manually, with a shop air compressor. I went and retrieved an XT, which had no compressor in it, by taking a portable compressor along, using an air chuck, aired up all 4 struts to an aproximate height. (The computor was unhooked, so the air stayed most of the way home.
And OH! I just have to mention, I have a nice set of front struts on hand, and nothing to put them in.
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Not bashing, cleaning out the fuel system works, if your vehicle needs it, usually this does not occur under 100k, but yes it can, And there's cheaper ways to get the same thing done.
And you disconnected some pistins? maybe i'll do that to my ej22... run on 2 cyls when gas prices go up again
boy would that be an interesting ride 
I wasn't pointing at anyone in particular for bashing, just seems that many were all but calling him lier.
All I did was pull 2 center exhaust valves on one side and and 2 outer exhaust valves on other side. (Every other one in the firing order. Stuck 3/8" bolts in the valve guides, double nutted. Lifted 8 lifters off the cam and secured in their holes with aluminum angle material. Plugged up fuel passages in one barrel of the 2 bbl carb. (The bbl that fed those 4 cylinders.) OH, hose clamps and rubber to plug up the oil holes in the rocker arm mounting pipe. Instant 191.5ci V4. Or was that still a V8? 8 pistons going up and down, 8 plugs a firing.
Wound up putting back to 8 cylinders running as it developed back firing issues. Was told I had a burned valve. At 8 cylinders, it backfired twice as much. (This was a fresh set of heads I traded for.) Come to find out, the power valve in the carb was seized down.)
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SLegacy96, Shame on you for posting what you did and what results you got. Just kidding.
I put in a whole bottle of PBlaster fuel system/injector cleaner into 1/2 tank of gas in my XT6 (supposed to put 1/2 bottle to a full tank), and my milage went from 17mpg to 24mpg average. Please bash me for stating what I did and my results.
I took my 71 Roadrunners 383 and removed every other exhaust valve, and was doing 24-25 mpg one whole summer, running on 4 cylinders. The other 4 pistons were still going up and down in thier holes. 55mph, no problem. 75mph, no problem, just toook a little longer to get to it. That's what I did, that's the mileage I got. Like it or not.
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Just a quick FYI on this air suspension. If the height or air suspension light (on the dash) is blinking, the computer (under the seat) will no longer take any control actions on any strut. If you turn off the key to, turn the key back on it will do some control for about 8 minutes, then the light will start flashing again if that BAD condition did not straighten itself out and shut down again. If the fronts are the problem and not coming up to height, the system will shut down before anything has been done to the rears.
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Ok Just bought a xt6 of of Craigslist in Ranier Or. $1200 beautiful pearl white good body (few dings) really light rust in places, 114k miles fully loaded. and 5spd. a really sweet car.
The bad is that the air shocks in the front are out, After talking to Richie about replacing the air shocks with regular struts he quoted me
90-94 4wd legacy or impresa for the front.
and for the rear xt 2wd or the 4wd sedan.
What is the best conversion?
Does anyone on the board have these? (what the price you are willing to sell them for?)
Does anybody know a yard that has them?
thanks for any input.
For what it's worth, I have a pair of front air struts for an XT6. No leaks.
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It's been awhile since I've done the air suspension things with my XT6, so excuse me if I error. As I remember, the fronts need to come up before the rears will get air. With my XT6, the fronts took forever as compaired to the rears. If I didn't want to wait "forever", I'd put a jack under the front side and jack it just enough so that the flat strut would come off from being bottomed out. Once off the bottom, the thing would go up almost immediatetly. Once the front are up to their proper hight, the rears will start to air up. My XT6s rear struts took air almost instantly.
If you not sure where the leak might be, disconnect the battery over night. That will take the computer out of the picture. (and perhaps the solenoids.) If you have one strut leaking, only that one should go down. With the computer in the picture, as a side starts to sag, due to a leak, the puter may open another solenoid on that side or end. If you have a solenoid leaking on a strut and and perhaps a leak between there and your compressor/tank, your tanks reserver air will also bleed down.
I don't get into this thread often, so might need to PM me if I can be of further help.
With your strut in the normally up position (and aired up) check the bags where they roll under and into the insides, next to the struts. Look for weather checking. If checked and leaking slightly, you might be abole to buy a few months by sliming the strut. (About 3 oz works wonders.)
Probably of no use, but I do have 2 front air struts, in good shape, from an XT6. Possibly a front solenoid.
As for sequence on the airing of struts, I beleive, when low, fronts fill first, then the rears. When high, the rears need to be lowered first, then the front. If the front is low and the rear is high, the high condition in the rearis taken care of first, then the fronts will be brought back up.
I don't get into this thread oftem, so might need to PM me if I can be of further help.
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You might try Swings stuff (CO) or Hals (SC?) Can't beleive I found the pen Hals sent me about 3 years ago to get you that address below. (Hal, I guess those pens pay off.) Not sure I have a link to Swings.
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That 6 is only running RWD? Light ascend like that, whew!, No wonder a wheel breaks loose. I'd try some better traction tires, perhaps a little ballast in the back would not hurt. There's definately a load on the fronts. But then, I think I'd use that FT4WD tranny that was on the six and power all 4s all the time. Then if the rears wanted to break loose, lock the center diff and you'll have all the celleration you want.
c150 sobs. Snow coming again and has to drive a TOPAZ!
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Are you looking for a starter for use on a Subaru engine, possibly for aircraft/hovercraft use?
Aircraft, YES. Sube engine, NO. Sorry if this appears OT, but we are talking about the Sube starters, right? I was hoping Sube had something lighter.
Friend of mine is in a delemma with a Corvair engine in his experimental. (KR2S, to be specific.) He called me after mounting a Nissan starter he was told to use, hit the key and it turned the wrong way. The Nisssan starter would have wored on the Corvair, but he had this engine built to rotate opposite what Corvairs did. (Corvairs rotated opposite what most of us might expect as normal on all engines.) I told him to stop out and look at my Sube starter from my 85 EA82. Told him the Sube starter would have to turn opposite most of the rest because it's mounted on the tranny side of the ring gear. Sure enough, it does, but he's worried about the weight. What ever he comes up with, he also needs a ring gear to match, so that will also need consideration.
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We got some snow! We got plenty of cold!! First time in 7years, I DON'T HAVE ME A DANG SUBE!!!
NOW THAT SUCKS!!!!
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No replies in the New Gen board, thought I would try here.
Not sure if this is the place for such a question, but here goes. I have a starter from an 85 GL EA82 engine. It is exactly what I need, but it's too big and too heavy. These Sube starters, due to being mounted on the tranny side of the flywheel/ring gear rotate the direction I need. (CCW looking at the bendix gear end of the starter.) Are any of the new Sube starters, or older starters that rotate this same direction as EA82 starters, any smaller or more importantly, lighter?
Thanks,
Dale
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Not sure if this is the place for such a question, but here goes. I have a starter from an 85 GL EA82 engine. It is exactly what I need, but it's too big and too heavy. These Sube starters, due to being mounted on the tranny side of the flywheel rotate the direction I need. Are any of the new Sube starters, that rotate the same direction as EA82 starters, any smaller or more importantly, lighter?
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My brother in aw has a Vanagon with bad transmission he wants to sell. Sounded like he wanted 350 for it. (Central WI)
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Bubbles can be from air being pushed out the rad cap as the engine is heating up. More apt to be the case IF the rad cap is not sealling on the rubber under the center metal disk on bottom of the cap. (One way valve that allows the coolant to be recovered into the rad as the engine is cooling down. Try a different cap or clean/check under that valve. If it continues after the engine has been warmed up for some time, could be a head gasket or such allowing compression/blowby to be making its way into the cooling system. Not sure what else could cause ecsessive air in the cooling system. OH, if you are running water only, have a bad cap that does not pressurize the cooling system, the water may be boiling. Water/coolant under pressure boils at consideraly higher temps than unpressurized liquids. Water boild at lower temps than antifreeze, etc.
Good luck.
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Your black deck of cards, does it have electrical going into it? Is there another black bottle looking thing on the compressor that may be the air drier? Guess I have not yet heard of this type of distribution block as you have mentioned. (Can not think of anything else to call it. Deck of cards with 6 inlets I can picture though.)
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Got it. THANKS!
Due to my slow broadband sat internet connection, I will have to go back there when more time and look at the rest of the info there. Looks like a great source for help.
Thanks again,
Dale
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Not too much of a mystery. The new link is doing the same thing. It probably has to do with this "somwhat of an internet connection" that I pay DWay for each month. I did get the link to open and now am waiting for the archives page to open. About 2 min for each page to open. Maybe their servers are are being taxed rather heavy today or it's just my DWay testing my patience again.
I'll keep trying to get to that info. Thanks for the help.
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So how did you go resolving this issue? I have a '93 Legacy (Liberty in Australia) and the front shocks - sometimes just one, sometimes both - are sporadically letting themselves down overnight (usually, seems to take ages).
Cheers,
Leon
(March'93 Liberty/Legacy AWD 5sp GX wagon - my first subaru and loving it)
Leon,
One thing caught my eye in your post. I have learned on my 89 XT6, that the fronts take forever to lift when totally flat. The rears will come up almost imediately. The fronts I took out of my XT6 (it's going somewhere, cheap!) are replacements and never leaked down. The ones they replaced, leaked down over night until I slimed them. This bought me about 3 more months before they blew out completely. Only thing I found to make the fronts go up faster was to jack that corner enough that the strut was just starting to extend. I would have to assume that the air inlet port, inside the strut, is partially blocked off when the fronts are totally compressed (retracted) by perhaps a rubber cushion that is built into them to keep them from bottoming out, metal to metal, when completely flat.
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Thanks for the link and number.
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When I click this link, the page loading bar at the bottom of IE6.0 fills about half way, then I get the "page can not be found" error message. Would someone else try the link for me? Could there be a problem with the link above or if this another example of just how nice this POS Direcway satellight internet connection is?
97 OBW head gasket replacement
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I can't find it, but I thought there was some kind of head gasket repair/procedure manual (PDF?) for this 2.5 OBW engine.
Anyone know a link to this repair manual/site?