c150L

I can't find it, but I thought there was some kind of head gasket repair/procedure manual (PDF?) for this 2.5 OBW engine. Anyone know a link to this repair manual/site?

Just in case an email address is needed for possible CarFax report. dale01@hughes.net

Thanks Skip. I am aware of torque bind. The tires are all getting down there, but look equal. Perhaps in the last quarter of their life. I did hear that these DOHC engines are interference engines. Do you know if the interference is valve VS piston or is it valve VS valve? Head gaskets, ay? Not looking like much chance for the service records, but he's still trying. Thanks again, Dale

My boy is looking at a 1997 Outback wagon. All I know if 100,000 miles, manual trans (5 speed?) AWD. He said it runs and drives smooth but has what sounds like a rear wheel bearing going out. Said it sounds exactly like a wheel bearing but I was wondering if there were any issues with rear differentials in these. Any other thoughts or suggestions, I much appreciate. If anyone has access, a CarFax might be handy. VIN: 453BG6855V6642421 Thanks in advance, Dale P.S., My oldest boy bought a 92 (can't think of model) auto, AWD 4 door, now middle boy looking at this OBW. I'm getting jelous!. I have not had a Sube since I sold my XT-6, which I miss dearly.

And OH! I would not have traded my air suspension in my XT6 for anything. If I'd come across another, I'd also keep it air. You know how to make the ride height change?

Gary, As I recall, both of the fronts, if low, should be should open at the same time and air should be sent to bring both fronts to height before either rear solenoid would open. If the rears are above normal height, the rears should release air before any other action happens with th e fronts. I beleive, when ever the compressor is on, the tank solenoid opens. When the tank reaches pressure, the compressor would shut off and take care of maintaining strut height. Kind of like the compressor takes care of teh tank and the tank takes care of airing the struts. I remember the fronts being real doggy to start to rise, if totally deflated. I sometimes jacked the fronts, just to get them off bottom dead center. The rears take air almost immediatly. The computer will try any one operation 8-10 minutes, expecting that situation to be taken care of, then go to the next. Any one condition, which is not handles in that 8-10 minutes, the puter shuts itself down and blinks the light, until the key is cycled again. Keep in mind, if you have a rear that is too high, the compressor will stop and the rear solenoid should open to relase air from a high condition. I have had a couple compressors with problems on the discharge soleniod. I did discect a discharge soleniod or 2 and revive them. I had one control puter that had a bad transistor in it, which was not sending the ground signal to the discharge solenoid. While I was waiting for a replacement transistor, I ran a wire to the test plug, to manually energize the discharge solenoid, until the compressor kicked in again. If you can locate the 4 pins in the test plug, for the 4 strut solenoids, you could try airing up each strut manually, with a shop air compressor. I went and retrieved an XT, which had no compressor in it, by taking a portable compressor along, using an air chuck, aired up all 4 struts to an aproximate height. (The computor was unhooked, so the air stayed most of the way home. And OH! I just have to mention, I have a nice set of front struts on hand, and nothing to put them in. .

I wasn't pointing at anyone in particular for bashing, just seems that many were all but calling him lier. All I did was pull 2 center exhaust valves on one side and and 2 outer exhaust valves on other side. (Every other one in the firing order. Stuck 3/8" bolts in the valve guides, double nutted. Lifted 8 lifters off the cam and secured in their holes with aluminum angle material. Plugged up fuel passages in one barrel of the 2 bbl carb. (The bbl that fed those 4 cylinders.) OH, hose clamps and rubber to plug up the oil holes in the rocker arm mounting pipe. Instant 191.5ci V4. Or was that still a V8? 8 pistons going up and down, 8 plugs a firing. Wound up putting back to 8 cylinders running as it developed back firing issues. Was told I had a burned valve. At 8 cylinders, it backfired twice as much. (This was a fresh set of heads I traded for.) Come to find out, the power valve in the carb was seized down.)

SLegacy96, Shame on you for posting what you did and what results you got. Just kidding. I put in a whole bottle of PBlaster fuel system/injector cleaner into 1/2 tank of gas in my XT6 (supposed to put 1/2 bottle to a full tank), and my milage went from 17mpg to 24mpg average. Please bash me for stating what I did and my results. I took my 71 Roadrunners 383 and removed every other exhaust valve, and was doing 24-25 mpg one whole summer, running on 4 cylinders. The other 4 pistons were still going up and down in thier holes. 55mph, no problem. 75mph, no problem, just toook a little longer to get to it. That's what I did, that's the mileage I got. Like it or not.

Just a quick FYI on this air suspension. If the height or air suspension light (on the dash) is blinking, the computer (under the seat) will no longer take any control actions on any strut. If you turn off the key to, turn the key back on it will do some control for about 8 minutes, then the light will start flashing again if that BAD condition did not straighten itself out and shut down again. If the fronts are the problem and not coming up to height, the system will shut down before anything has been done to the rears.

For what it's worth, I have a pair of front air struts for an XT6. No leaks.

It's been awhile since I've done the air suspension things with my XT6, so excuse me if I error. As I remember, the fronts need to come up before the rears will get air. With my XT6, the fronts took forever as compaired to the rears. If I didn't want to wait "forever", I'd put a jack under the front side and jack it just enough so that the flat strut would come off from being bottomed out. Once off the bottom, the thing would go up almost immediatetly. Once the front are up to their proper hight, the rears will start to air up. My XT6s rear struts took air almost instantly. If you not sure where the leak might be, disconnect the battery over night. That will take the computer out of the picture. (and perhaps the solenoids.) If you have one strut leaking, only that one should go down. With the computer in the picture, as a side starts to sag, due to a leak, the puter may open another solenoid on that side or end. If you have a solenoid leaking on a strut and and perhaps a leak between there and your compressor/tank, your tanks reserver air will also bleed down. I don't get into this thread often, so might need to PM me if I can be of further help. With your strut in the normally up position (and aired up) check the bags where they roll under and into the insides, next to the struts. Look for weather checking. If checked and leaking slightly, you might be abole to buy a few months by sliming the strut. (About 3 oz works wonders.) Probably of no use, but I do have 2 front air struts, in good shape, from an XT6. Possibly a front solenoid. As for sequence on the airing of struts, I beleive, when low, fronts fill first, then the rears. When high, the rears need to be lowered first, then the front. If the front is low and the rear is high, the high condition in the rearis taken care of first, then the fronts will be brought back up. I don't get into this thread oftem, so might need to PM me if I can be of further help.

You might try Swings stuff (CO) or Hals (SC?) Can't beleive I found the pen Hals sent me about 3 years ago to get you that address below. (Hal, I guess those pens pay off.) Not sure I have a link to Swings. http://s-wingsstuff.com/index.html www.halspartsandservice.com

That 6 is only running RWD? Light ascend like that, whew!, No wonder a wheel breaks loose. I'd try some better traction tires, perhaps a little ballast in the back would not hurt. There's definately a load on the fronts. But then, I think I'd use that FT4WD tranny that was on the six and power all 4s all the time. Then if the rears wanted to break loose, lock the center diff and you'll have all the celleration you want. c150 sobs. Snow coming again and has to drive a TOPAZ!

Aircraft, YES. Sube engine, NO. Sorry if this appears OT, but we are talking about the Sube starters, right? I was hoping Sube had something lighter. Friend of mine is in a delemma with a Corvair engine in his experimental. (KR2S, to be specific.) He called me after mounting a Nissan starter he was told to use, hit the key and it turned the wrong way. The Nisssan starter would have wored on the Corvair, but he had this engine built to rotate opposite what Corvairs did. (Corvairs rotated opposite what most of us might expect as normal on all engines.) I told him to stop out and look at my Sube starter from my 85 EA82. Told him the Sube starter would have to turn opposite most of the rest because it's mounted on the tranny side of the ring gear. Sure enough, it does, but he's worried about the weight. What ever he comes up with, he also needs a ring gear to match, so that will also need consideration.

We got some snow! We got plenty of cold!! First time in 7years, I DON'T HAVE ME A DANG SUBE!!! NOW THAT SUCKS!!!!