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zundfolge

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About zundfolge

  • Birthday 01/01/1950

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  • Location
    Pomona, CA
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    I Love My Subaru

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  1. Push or pull? Well, that depends what end the the clutch fork you're looking at.... Seriously, I have to trust that the handful of vendors selling this damn thing would list the applications correctly. But I could be wrong... On that note, can anyone shed any light on a difference in clutches between pre and post 3/1998? Exedy's own page lists two parts numbers for the same application (1998 Subaru Outback 2.5L): Part Number: 15015 and Part Number: KSB04 Below is the link to Amazon listing for the "KSB04" Page 4 of the fittment suggest it only fits Subaru Legacy Outback made 3/98 and later. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/compatibility-chart/B001B5EMS4?ie=UTF8&i=75 Again, another's vendors website suggests a difference at 3/98: http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=SUB070681&itempk=93989&mfr=Exedy&weight=15.980 http://www.bmaparts.com/item.wws?sku=SUB002784&itempk=76679&mfr=Exedy&weight=15.250 What the hell is the difference!?
  2. Well, the catalog suggests TSK1 for a 1998 non turbo outback, so that is what I ordered. $120+shipping from sumoparts.com THe "quill" isn't terrible worn, but it is worn. I'm still not entirely sure how this wear pattern develops; it's as if the throwout bearing would have to seize and the whole thing would have to spin on the quill. Possibly this happened well before I got the car....T.O. bearing seemed fine when I replaced the clutch at 125k. But the clutch has always felt "funny" in the way in engages. Maybe this well help, maybe I just blew $$$ for nothing...we'll see.
  3. Are you sure there are no misfire codes? Whenever it rains, I always get a misfire code for cylinders 3 or 4. I shrug it off, reset the code and go on my merry way, but I image that it could become a driveability problem... There is no harm in pulling all of the wires, and checking for corrosion/gunk at the ends...also check for corrosion on the terminals of the coil itself.
  4. If you don' have one already, a basic digital multimeter will prove very helpful. Even a dumb test light would be better than nothing... I always keep alligator clips, paper clips and t-pins around to help securely probe electrical connections with a meter. Is the motor getting ~12volts? If not, then probe backward from there...
  5. Hello again... As my bottom end project (1998 Outback) keeps snowballing into more stuff, I'd like to do the clutch again, with the quill/snout repair kit. According to the rather obfuscatory catalog descriptions on RockAuto, it looks like some of their kits come WITH a repair kit... DOES ANYONE HAVE EXPERIENCE ORDERING THESE PART NUMBERS AND CAN CONFIRM OR DENY THE INCLUSION OF A SUITABLE SNOUT KIT? .... SACHS Part # KF73802 use optional; Standard If the bearing retainer is worn, replace. includes a standard release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.; Standard BRUTE POWER Part # 92543 Diaphragm; 8 7/8x24Tx1; Includes Release Bearing Sleeve Repair Kit RHINOPAC/WORLD CAR Part # 15004R Outback; Disc Spec: 8-7/8" OD X 1" ID X 24T, Flywheel Spec: 0.002+; Kit Includes an Oversize Release Bearing and Repair Sleeve That Fits Over the Worn Aluminum Quill; Kit with Repair Sleeve SACHS Part # KF73804 DOHC; If the bearing retainer is worn, replace entire clutch kit which includes an oversize release bearing and repair sleeve that fits over the worn aluminum retainer.
  6. Perhaps this is stating the obvious, but if you are going to replace the strut but keep the old spring it you are going to need to procure a spring compressor anyway.
  7. The downstream oxygen sensor is there only for emissions purposes. The computer evaluates and compares signals from the upstream and downstream sensors to assess whether the cat. converter is doing it's job. Without a scope/DSM/scan tool to see the signal in real time, it is hard to say whether to sensor is working well or not. Be that as it may, as far as diagnosis-by-parts changing goes, if the trouble code is for the rear sensor, it's good odds that replacing it will likely resolve the issue. However, it is possible for a bad cat. converter to set a rear oxygen sensor code, and likewise, a bad rear oxygen sensor could set a cat. efficiency code. If you have an infrared thermometer handy, you could measure the temp of the cat with the car running at at least 1500 rpm...a functioning cat. should be at least 100 degrees warmer at the outlet.
  8. I used Mobil 1 synthetic grease on mine. 60k miles later I had a chance to look again and it still seems fine. I've used basic wheel bearing grease before on clutch forks and splines and after inspecting a couple years later it seems to turn to gunk.
  9. Thanks for the tip on the SOHC block. I did find a vendor that would sell the SOHC short block used for $450...though they did have the candor to say that inspection only consists of taking off the oil pan to see if there is metal in there. Used crankshaft is $200...ouch! I sent my bottom end to a machine shop, would prefer to get it rebuilt....I've had the engine or trans out 3 times in 60k miles, would really like this to be the last time! Cyl heads 125k miles Clutch fork 150k miles Bottom end 185k miles ...and I though my BMWs were a PITA....
  10. "Otherwise, cheaper solution is typically to just replace the engine with a used one. But then you risk having the same thing happen again not such a long time later. " __________ This is what I'm thinking. I can't find a used engine for less than $1k around SoCal anyway. May as well rebuild for that price. But I have a feeling that the crankshaft is FUBAR'ed, and I don't know where to get another one..seems like salvage yards won't sell the bottom end by itself, much less individual parts. If only it were a small block Chevy...
  11. Hello all, I know I don't post that often, but nonetheless perhaps someone can share a qualified opinion on this.... I have a 1998 2.5 which I just had to pull out of car after sudden failure. The #4 Rod bearing is very loose (at least 1/4" play). Oil pan covered in metal sludge. No other problems immediately evident. I can't get the rod cap off since it looks like case needs to be split to do this. I did the heads 60k mile ago, and looking through the spark plug hole I do not see any damage to the top of #4 piston. I poured gas into the valve ports and valves do not leak, so I'm crossing my fingers heads are still good. I guess my question is for anyone that has sent out a bottom end for rebuilding. How much success is likely with being able to turn crankshaft and install oversize bearings? What is the best source for hard parts like crankshaft, con rods, oversized bearings and rings? Thanks, Daniel
  12. grossgary: It worked pretty well; I don't think I could've done the job by bench pressing the transmission, and using just a floor jack would have been difficult. However, I certainly agree with the other remarks that Harbor Freight tools are not suitable for regular use. Fortunately, the engine and trans separated pretty easily, because I had the engine out not too long ago for other reasons. You can image how thrilled I was to be going back in just for some piddling little piece of steel...but such is life! IMO, it's easier to pull the engine than the trans, unless you happen to have access to a lift.
  13. To add my two cents: It sounds from the price you were quoted that the shop wasn't doing you any favors, but wasn't quite outrageous either. Parts mark up is typically anywhere from 50-100 percent, sometime even more. IIRC, Bosch sensor is around $65+, so the parts price isn't too far off base (again, it's no bargain either). If you are in the position of having to warranty your work, buying sensors from Autozone may not be the best idea. The "code reset" is the contentious issue. Many shops here in So Cal charge $100 diag. fee for any "check engine" light issue. Period. This is a sort of contingency, "cover you rump roast" fee. For every repair that is a simple matter of changing a part and being done with it, there is one where the problem is intermittent, where it turns out that the wiring is damaged, the PCM is bad, etc etc. and before you know it hours have been killed to diagnose a part that there is only a modest labor charge for replacing. Knock sensors are impossible to "bench test" and conclusively diagnosing them in situ is also next to impossible, practically speaking. So all you can do is change the part and hope you didn't screw up. It's tough to run a business that way. That said, I have been guilty of extreme cheapness on this issue...I walked into a local Subaru independent shop once and asked if he had a used sensor I could buy...the guy looked like he wanted to punch me in the face. Understandable perhaps.
  14. Hello all, I saw this mentioned in a thread here (I think), so I bought one and here is a pic of it in action. Not bad for $80. As a reference, 19" from ground to bottom of control arm bushings. Also, replace clutch fork whenever the opportunity presents itself. This one is DEAD at 160k! Still not happy w/ clutch feel, never have been, but at least car is driveable again.
  15. You know, I can't remember the price...not the cheapest and not the priceist. As I recall the set was special order from Carquest.
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