ninefourteener

73 confirmed cars.... 6 days left!!!

60 cars!!!!

50 cars

Yea... there will definitely be a picture thread... there always is.... I'll post it Up to 36 cars now

32 confirmed attendees so far!!!

22 cars confirmed in only 24 hours. Should be a GREAT turnout if you happen to be near the SLC area.

^^^ No.... not yet. 914s will always be my true love.... owned a couple of them. Still regretting selling the last one. Now I have 4 Subies... imagine that. One day though...... I already have schematics drawn out on how I want to do a Subie transplant in a 914. ... and yes... SLC area.... if this isn't the correct forum, my apologies

In celebration of 3 years since the First SLCSUBARU meet, we are having an anniversary meet/cruise/lunch/photoshoot/movie meet. We would be honored for our USMB brothren and sisteren (is that a word?) to join us. Please take a look at the original post on SLCSubaru. You can respond there to let me know you're coming, or here if you don't have an account. I will add you to the list on the original post regardless. Should be a great time, good fun, and won't interfere with the snowcross the day prior. SEE YOU THERE!!! http://slcsubaru.freeforums.org/post111658.html#p111658

Thanks all. I'm familiar on the advanatges of weber carbs... I use to run dual webers on one of my old 914s. The other one had dual dellortos... and I missed the webers. The best price I've found on a weber was nearly $400. The best price I've found on an OEM was $190. - flow tested, pre adjusted, with a lifetime warrantee. I understand it's pretty complex system... but everything else seems to be in good working order and working correctly, including the PCV, fuel system, and vacuum lines. The carb, the jetting (or lack thereof) and the linkages (or lack thereof) seem to be the problem. I figure it will be a good start to KNOW it's done right, and then I can nickel-and-dime little things afterward as they pop up.. Instead... it looks like the PO had the POS carb set to actually run on only the primaries, with the settings completely..... well....... "wacked" So I'm going to start from scratch. For $190 it's worth it to me. Regarding the Weber, I can maybe squeeze a couple more HP out of it.... which will put me at..... maybe 70hp? LOL I drive a 385hp car on a daily basis... just about anything is going to be "slow" by comparison.. and the extra couple hp just isn't worth it to me. Having never known about the complete LACK of the secondary portion of a carburetor until just yesterday... I'm certain that the Brat isn't nearly as "slow" as I thought..... so any improvement will seem much better than it actually is.... so I'm excited about it. Any suggestions on a beter place to buy an OEM carb for better than $190?

No.. I'm sure I can get a weber through.... don't want to spend the $ on one though.. nor do I want to deal with any "conversion" issues either. This car is rediculously slow.... so a couple more hp isn't worth it to me. Just the stocker is fine. I've found a new (rebuilt), flow tested, lifetime warrantee carb for about $190. Better deal somewhere else?

I got it running... but only if I hold my finger on the air valve... and hold it closed. Once I let go... It opens, and the car stalls. the idle is crazy high.... and the idle screw is all the way out. ..... and the entire linkage mechanism for my secondaries is completely missing..... and it's not flowing any gas anyway. I'd say I need a new carb. Suggestions on where to buy one?

Long story..... but now I can't get the car running. I have no idea even what type of carb I have.... nor how to tune it. 2 weeks ago... the car ran "ok". Failed emissions...... badly. Burns VERY rich Ran some 44k through it to clean out the fuel system... dumped some alcohol in it to "hopefully" get it through emissions... it did MUCH better.... but still failed. Filled it up with mid-grade gas.... and it started running horribly for a week now. Finally today.... I get to actually take it apart and try to get it to burn a little a little cleaner.... and thats when the REAL problems started. Now.... it fires up for a second and then dies off.... not even pumping the gas will keep it running. In fact, if I even touch the gas, it won't run at all. The linkage to the primary air valve works horribly... the valve is stuck on full open. I did manage to tweak the linkage arm a bit to get it close further and only open when the accelerator is pressed. worked great for awhile.... but then when the car warmed up, I cant get it running. I reset the distributor back where it has always been... fully clockwise... thats the way it's been since I bought it. Oh..... and theres no fuel coming out of the secondary.... at all.... it's shiny clean in fact.... and the linkage to the secondary (closest to the cab) is completely flopping in the wind... not hooked up to anything. I can only find 1 adjustment screw..... Just one. I "think" it's an idle screw on the front side... but I'm not sure... I can't find anything else anywhere. How am I supposed to adjust the mixture on this thing? It has always burned SUPER rich I'm throughly pissed... and tired of this car. can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm ready to just buy a new carburetor. Does anyone have any resources or links? Pics.... what is it?

Thanks!! Not exactly what I wanted to hear... kinda was hoping it was an easy fix.... apparently not. The rubber boots are in good shape, but the pivot/ball joints are loose and wobbly. I can get access to them easily if I were to just cut the boot off..... but I can't get the boot off (without destroying it) unless I can get to the "inboard" sides of the boots.... Thats where the problem comes in.

.... are bad.... and it failed the safety inspection because of it. I saw it up on the lift... both sides have a considerable amount of "give". Totally explains the shakiness in the front end. Nevertheless.... I haven't dug into it yet. Is there a trick. The rubber boots go well under the engine... not sure how to get to them. Suggestions?

Yea... The radiator doesn't seem to be "too" tough to find. I get paid tomorrow.. so I'm buying it tomorrow..... probably off ebay. It was the heater core I was really worried about... NO ONE sells one for a pre-1980 brat.... Thank God the problem was the control valve, not the heater core itself.