ninefourteener

73 confirmed cars.... 6 days left!!!

60 cars!!!!

50 cars

Yea... there will definitely be a picture thread... there always is.... I'll post it Up to 36 cars now

32 confirmed attendees so far!!!

22 cars confirmed in only 24 hours. Should be a GREAT turnout if you happen to be near the SLC area.

^^^ No.... not yet. 914s will always be my true love.... owned a couple of them. Still regretting selling the last one. Now I have 4 Subies... imagine that. One day though...... I already have schematics drawn out on how I want to do a Subie transplant in a 914. ... and yes... SLC area.... if this isn't the correct forum, my apologies

In celebration of 3 years since the First SLCSUBARU meet, we are having an anniversary meet/cruise/lunch/photoshoot/movie meet. We would be honored for our USMB brothren and sisteren (is that a word?) to join us. Please take a look at the original post on SLCSubaru. You can respond there to let me know you're coming, or here if you don't have an account. I will add you to the list on the original post regardless. Should be a great time, good fun, and won't interfere with the snowcross the day prior. SEE YOU THERE!!! http://slcsubaru.freeforums.org/post111658.html#p111658

Thanks all. I'm familiar on the advanatges of weber carbs... I use to run dual webers on one of my old 914s. The other one had dual dellortos... and I missed the webers. The best price I've found on a weber was nearly $400. The best price I've found on an OEM was $190. - flow tested, pre adjusted, with a lifetime warrantee. I understand it's pretty complex system... but everything else seems to be in good working order and working correctly, including the PCV, fuel system, and vacuum lines. The carb, the jetting (or lack thereof) and the linkages (or lack thereof) seem to be the problem. I figure it will be a good start to KNOW it's done right, and then I can nickel-and-dime little things afterward as they pop up.. Instead... it looks like the PO had the POS carb set to actually run on only the primaries, with the settings completely..... well....... "wacked" So I'm going to start from scratch. For $190 it's worth it to me. Regarding the Weber, I can maybe squeeze a couple more HP out of it.... which will put me at..... maybe 70hp? LOL I drive a 385hp car on a daily basis... just about anything is going to be "slow" by comparison.. and the extra couple hp just isn't worth it to me. Having never known about the complete LACK of the secondary portion of a carburetor until just yesterday... I'm certain that the Brat isn't nearly as "slow" as I thought..... so any improvement will seem much better than it actually is.... so I'm excited about it. Any suggestions on a beter place to buy an OEM carb for better than $190?

No.. I'm sure I can get a weber through.... don't want to spend the $ on one though.. nor do I want to deal with any "conversion" issues either. This car is rediculously slow.... so a couple more hp isn't worth it to me. Just the stocker is fine. I've found a new (rebuilt), flow tested, lifetime warrantee carb for about $190. Better deal somewhere else?

I got it running... but only if I hold my finger on the air valve... and hold it closed. Once I let go... It opens, and the car stalls. the idle is crazy high.... and the idle screw is all the way out. ..... and the entire linkage mechanism for my secondaries is completely missing..... and it's not flowing any gas anyway. I'd say I need a new carb. Suggestions on where to buy one?

Long story..... but now I can't get the car running. I have no idea even what type of carb I have.... nor how to tune it. 2 weeks ago... the car ran "ok". Failed emissions...... badly. Burns VERY rich Ran some 44k through it to clean out the fuel system... dumped some alcohol in it to "hopefully" get it through emissions... it did MUCH better.... but still failed. Filled it up with mid-grade gas.... and it started running horribly for a week now. Finally today.... I get to actually take it apart and try to get it to burn a little a little cleaner.... and thats when the REAL problems started. Now.... it fires up for a second and then dies off.... not even pumping the gas will keep it running. In fact, if I even touch the gas, it won't run at all. The linkage to the primary air valve works horribly... the valve is stuck on full open. I did manage to tweak the linkage arm a bit to get it close further and only open when the accelerator is pressed. worked great for awhile.... but then when the car warmed up, I cant get it running. I reset the distributor back where it has always been... fully clockwise... thats the way it's been since I bought it. Oh..... and theres no fuel coming out of the secondary.... at all.... it's shiny clean in fact.... and the linkage to the secondary (closest to the cab) is completely flopping in the wind... not hooked up to anything. I can only find 1 adjustment screw..... Just one. I "think" it's an idle screw on the front side... but I'm not sure... I can't find anything else anywhere. How am I supposed to adjust the mixture on this thing? It has always burned SUPER rich I'm throughly pissed... and tired of this car. can anyone point me in the right direction? I'm ready to just buy a new carburetor. Does anyone have any resources or links? Pics.... what is it?

Thanks!! Not exactly what I wanted to hear... kinda was hoping it was an easy fix.... apparently not. The rubber boots are in good shape, but the pivot/ball joints are loose and wobbly. I can get access to them easily if I were to just cut the boot off..... but I can't get the boot off (without destroying it) unless I can get to the "inboard" sides of the boots.... Thats where the problem comes in.

.... are bad.... and it failed the safety inspection because of it. I saw it up on the lift... both sides have a considerable amount of "give". Totally explains the shakiness in the front end. Nevertheless.... I haven't dug into it yet. Is there a trick. The rubber boots go well under the engine... not sure how to get to them. Suggestions?

Yea... The radiator doesn't seem to be "too" tough to find. I get paid tomorrow.. so I'm buying it tomorrow..... probably off ebay. It was the heater core I was really worried about... NO ONE sells one for a pre-1980 brat.... Thank God the problem was the control valve, not the heater core itself.

Heater control valve..... frozen solid in the closed position. A little acetone... some elbow grease.... and some WD40...... all better now. Still can't drive on the highway.... still need a radiator. .... but at least I have heat.

So..... just put in the water pump...... still overheats on the highway. ..... and I still have no heat. Anyone have any ideas where I can buy a heater core for a 78 Brat? I keep finding ones for 1980 and up... but not 1978. Need a radiator too I guess. This car is pissing me off.

Well..... it is still over heating at highway speeds. Driving around at 40-45 mph... it is fine..... all day long. On the highway at 65-70... it overheats and boils all my coolant off in 10-15 minutes. What I've done: 1) Chemical Flushed the cooling system..... in 2 different directions 2) Burped cooling system.... twice 3) Bought new radiator cap. 4) Installed new thermostat 5) Re-checked thermostat to ensure I didn't put it in backwards 6) Installed overflow resevoir... it fills when the car gets hot... and refills the radiator when the car cools down.... works perfectly. 7) Installed a dual-electric fan assembly, temp sensor and autromatic relay... works perfectly ....... and it still overheats.... but ONLY at highway speeds. It is absolutely driving me nuts because this thing will idle ALL DAY LONG in the driveway without overheating. And, I've been driving it for a week around the base at low speeds (40-45)... and it does just fine. ..... Oh..... and I still have no heat??????? Anyway... I purchased a water pump last night.... I'll get that in next week... hopefully that will solve it.

Thanks..... I'm going to go pick up a new cap today (just in case).... and I'm also going to do a chemical flush on the cooling system. I guess if I need a radiator (yes, it is original)... I'll buy one... I'll try to flush it first though. Maybe that will work. I'll report back.

So.... I let it run in my driveway..... for a LONG time. Barely went above the first mark on the temp gauge.... perfect.... not overheating..... nothing. ... and the heat is blowing warm... just like it should.... because (obviously) it has water in it now. So it seems to be after a highway-speed drive that it overheats and boils off water..... ?????????????????????????????

No... she starts right up... runs great... no white smoke... no antifreeze smell. Pretty "fuellie" because I think she's running a bit rich, and there is no cat on the car.... but there's no white smoke or watery/antifreeze smell. I've been driving her for 4 days now..... and she's done great. (short 20 minute drives) Until last night.... I took her on the highway.... got back to a slow speed, and I figured I'd test out the heat..... and it blows cold...... and I noticed the temp gauge went up when I turned on the heat..... and then down again when I turned off the heat. But still the heat isn't blowing warm at all. The steam is coming out of the little nipple right on the radiator by the cap.... not actually out of the cap itself. Suggestions????? I really don't think it is a head gasket. Oil is clean too (no water in it) EDIT: And right after I wrote this.... I went to check how low my radiator is... and it was almost empty. Almost every bit of the water had vented out that little nipple by the radiator cap. EDIT#2: I'm starting to question whether or not I installed the thermostat backwards. Would that cause it? I honestly don't remember which way I installed it.... only that I put it in the same way the old one was (which could have been done incorrectly). What would be the RIGHT way to do it?? Pointing to the radiator, or the engine? Also..... I'm questioning whether or not the water pump is bad. What is the easiest way to tell???

So she's on the road legally now . I have been driving her for the past couple days and she is doing well . last night I took her on the highway for the first time . still overheating venting steam out the radiator cap . i have changed the thermostat . i have added the dual fan system . everything seems to beat working perfectly . Except still venting steam out of the radiator cap . it seems to be a bit worst when i turn on the heater . Suggestions? -- Submitted via my HTC EVO 4G

I appreciate everyone's advice..... although admittedly, i didn't take it. There was no way I was going to pull the motor out of this car. Plus, I don't own a cherry picker... nor a vehicle big enough to get one to my house if I rented one. The valve cover gaskets... piece of cake... got those done last night.. each side took maybe 20 minutes... including scraping off the old gasket. The oil pan.... not so easy.... but I did it.... and the motor barely came off the mounts. So...... I disconnected the motor mounts.... and the driver side exhaust manifold (that was enough to do it). Pulled as many bolts out of the pan that I could access. padded the jack, and jacked up the motor about 1.5 inches by the oil pan. removed the rest of the bolts using a 10mm socket and a couple of different universal joints depending on the application...... and then dropped the motoe back down. Pan came right off: The oil pickup actually looked excellent... not clogged up or nasty at all.... neither was the pan for that matter. Scraped off the pan, as well as the block, with a putty knife and a push razor, cleaned out the pan, cleaned the block, etc. Just a very light app of high temp rtv to hold the gasket in place during the re-install... Had a bit of trouble getting the passenger side motor mount to go back in..... after numerous attmpts at "manhandling" the engine back in... I decided to use the BFH and pole technique...... popped right in. And of course..... the tools required: All in all.... not "too" bad of a job..... I'm sore though. Didn't have any oil... and it's too late now to do it anyway.... but I'll go ahead and fill it, change out the filter, and I might as well do the tranny and rear diff while I'm at it. Been working on this car 2 years.... I'll be driving it in less than a week

Thanks for the help..... but maybe I'm missing something... I have to separate the engine from the tranny to change an oil pan gasket? I don't understand why... If I disconnect the motor mounts... and then hoist (or Jack) it up an inch, I'll be able to access the pan just fine. It "sounds" like you just gave me instructions for pulling the motor out of the car???? Won't the tranny just go up an inch with the engine?

Bump... Need some help folks.... I don't want to start tearing stuff apart to do this oil pan gasket until I get some advice from an expert. After inspecting.... I "think" there's just 2 nuts.... one for each motor mount that need to be taken off.... but i'm not 100% sure. Is there anything else that needs to be disconnected before jacking? I only need about an inch to get to all the bolts on the back side of the oil pan... but there is no way I'll get to them now. Plus..... where is the best place to put the jack when jacking this thing up off the mounts? HELP!!!!